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Growing Luffa from Seed in Florida

Growing luffa from seed

Growing luffa from seed is a practical and rewarding way to produce your own natural sponges at home. Often called loofah or sponge gourd, Luffa aegyptiaca is a fast-growing annual vine in the gourd family that thrives in warm climates and full sun.

With a long growing season and vigorous vines, learning how to grow luffa from seed may be the easiest chore in your Florida garden this summer. By starting seeds indoors, providing a strong trellis, and maintaining consistent moisture, you can successfully cultivate this climbing vegetable plant from germination through to harvest.

Once mature, the fibrous interior of the luffa gourd can be peeled, cleaned, and dried to make biodegradable bath or kitchen sponges.

What Exactly IS Luffa (or Loofah)?

Luffa plants belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which also includes cucumbers, squash, and melons. Botanically classified as Luffa aegyptiaca or Luffa cylindrica, they are commonly grown for the fibrous interior of their mature fruits.

This interior webbing is what people process into natural sponges. Unlike many gourds grown primarily for decoration, luffa is valued for its functional use and vigorous growth.

Is it Luffa or Loofah?

Luffa goes by several names depending on regional or functional use. “Loofah” is the most common spelling in North America when referring to the dried sponge, while “sponge gourd” or “vegetable sponge” are often used in agricultural and botanical contexts. In culinary settings, especially in Asia, immature luffa fruits may also be referred to as “Chinese okra.”

Loofah Lifespan

Loofah is a warm-season annual that requires a long frost-free growing period — typically between 150 to 200 days from seed to sponge harvest. The vines are fast-growing and can reach 15 to 30 feet in length under optimal conditions.

Because of their climbing habit, they need strong vertical support and plenty of space to sprawl or climb.

Luffa aegyptiaca vs. Luffa acutangula

Growers focus on two species of luffa for cultivation: Luffa aegyptiaca (also known as Luffa cylindrica) and Luffa acutangula. L. aegyptiaca produces smoother, cylindrical fruits and is the preferred species for sponge production.

Luffa cylindrica By KENPEI – KENPEI’s photo, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link

L. acutangula, or ridged luffa, has deeply grooved fruits and is more often used as a cooked vegetable when young. While both are edible in their immature stage, L. aegyptiaca develops a more uniform sponge when fully mature.

Luffa acutangula. L. aegyptiaca By SnapMeUp – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Ideal Climate for Growing Loofah

Luffa grows best in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and above, where the growing season is long enough to allow fruits to mature and dry on the vine. In Zones 6 and below, seeds must be started indoors to compensate for shorter summers.

Loofah is highly sensitive to frost at all stages of growth, and even mature vines can be killed by a light freeze. Daytime temperatures between 75°F and 90°F are ideal, and nighttime temperatures should consistently stay above 55°F for healthy growth.

When to Plant Luffa Seeds

In Florida, gardeners have plenty of flexibility when starting luffa seeds. We can start them indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the possible last frost date. Although most of Florida gets no significant frost, I’ve found that late December to late January is a good time to take a month off.

We can also try direct sowing outdoors — If you want to know how to grow loofah from seeds in Florida, this is easiest when soil temperatures consistently reach at least 70°F.

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Luffa requires a long growing season, so earlier planting—whether indoors or directly in the garden—ensures that your loofah fruits have time to fully develop and dry on the vine before autumn.

Germination Requirements for Loofah Seeds

Luffa seeds germinate best in warm soil with temperatures between 75°F and 85°F. Germination can take 7 to 14 days under ideal conditions. If soil is too cool or remains overly wet, germination rates may drop, and seeds are prone to rotting.

Whether starting indoors or outdoors, use a well-draining, sterile seed-starting mix and maintain consistent warmth and moisture without oversaturating.

How to Speed Germination of Luffa Seeds

Luffa seeds have a hard outer shell that can delay germination. To encourage faster and more uniform sprouting, gardeners can soak seeds in warm water for 24 hours prior to planting.

Some growers also choose to nick the seed coat lightly with a nail file or sandpaper before soaking—a process called scarification.

While not strictly necessary, these techniques can improve germination rates, particularly when seeds are older or conditions are less than ideal.

Use the Right Pots for Growing Luffa from Seed

If starting seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots such as peat, paper, or cow pots—or make soil blocks. These methods minimize root disturbance during transplanting, which is important because luffa seedlings dislike having their roots disturbed.

Plant one seed per container, and position the seed about ½ inch deep. Provide consistent warmth, moisture, and bright light to prevent leggy growth.

Harden Off Luffa Seedlings

Before transplanting luffa seedlings into the garden, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over a period of 7 to 10 days. Start by placing seedlings outside in a sheltered location for a few hours each day, gradually increasing sun exposure and time outdoors.

This acclimation process reduces transplant shock and helps young plants adjust to direct sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures.

Transplanting Luffa Seedlings

By Judgefloro – This image has been extracted from another file, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Avoid transplanting during extreme weather or when nighttime temperatures drop below 55°F.

Provide Full Sun and Wind Protection

Luffa plants require full sun to thrive—ideally 8 or more hours of direct sunlight per day. Choose a planting site with southern exposure and shelter from prevailing winds, which can damage young vines and interfere with vertical growth.

Planting near a fence, wall, or other windbreak can provide necessary protection while still allowing for airflow to prevent fungal issues.

Soil Prep for Growing Luffa from Seed

Luffa grows best in fertile, well-draining loam or sandy loam soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Prepare the planting area several weeks in advance by loosening the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and incorporating several inches of finished compost. Avoid compacted or poorly draining soils, which can lead to root rot and stunted growth. If your soil is heavy clay, consider growing luffa in raised beds to improve drainage.

Spacing Requirements for Loofah

Luffa vines require ample space to prevent crowding, promote airflow, and reduce disease pressure. Space plants at least 24 to 36 inches apart along the row, and leave 5 to 6 feet between rows if planting multiple. Proper spacing is especially important for trellised vines to ensure each plant has adequate room to climb and produce without tangling excessively.

Trellising Luffa Vines

By Dinesh Valke from Thane, India – Luffa aegyptiaca, CC BY-SA 2.0, Link

Because luffa plants produce long, heavy vines and large fruits, they must be supported from the start. Install a sturdy trellis, fence, archway, or vertical A-frame structure before transplanting to avoid disturbing the roots later. The support should be at least 6 to 8 feet tall and strong enough to hold the weight of multiple mature fruits.

Training the vines vertically not only saves space but also improves air circulation, reduces pest and disease problems, and helps the fruits grow straighter for easier processing.

Caring for Luffa Plants

By Dinesh Valke from Thane, India – Luffa cylindrica, CC BY-SA 2.0, Link

Luffa plants require consistent moisture throughout the growing season, particularly during flowering and fruit development. Provide 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation, depending on local conditions.

Deep, infrequent watering is preferable to frequent shallow watering, as it encourages deep root growth and greater drought resilience. Be warned that sandy Florida soil may dry out quickly, though.

Always water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can increase the risk of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. Mulching with straw or leaf mold can help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.

Fertilizing Loofah

Luffa is a heavy feeder and benefits from nutrient-rich soil. Incorporate compost at planting, when possible. You may want to fertilize once the vines begin to flower.

At that stage, apply a balanced, all-purpose organic fertilizer or one slightly higher in phosphorus and potassium to support flowering and fruiting.

Avoid overapplying nitrogen once the plants are established, as it can promote excessive vine growth at the expense of fruit production.

Fertilize every 3 to 4 weeks during peak growth if needed, based on visual inspection or a soil test.

Pruning Luffa Plants

While not strictly necessary, pruning can help manage overly vigorous growth and improve airflow through the plant canopy. This reduces the risk of foliar diseases. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased leaves as needed.

In smaller gardens or on dense trellises, selective pruning of excess lateral vines (side shoots) can direct more energy into fruit development. However, take care not to over-prune, as the plant’s large foliage is critical for photosynthesis and overall productivity.

Pests and Diseases

Luffa is relatively pest-resistant, but it can be affected by common cucurbit pests such as cucumber beetles, squash bugs, aphids, and spider mites. Regular inspection of leaves, stems, and flower buds is essential. Hand-pick pests when possible or use insecticidal soap as needed.

For disease management, rotate crops each year to avoid soil-borne pathogens, and avoid overhead watering. If powdery mildew appears, remove infected leaves and consider organic fungicide treatments approved for edible crops.

Keeping vines well-spaced and off the ground with a trellis is one of the most effective preventive measures.

Support Vines

Luffa vines climb by twining tendrils that wrap around nearby structures. Direct vines onto the trellis early in the season to establish their path and prevent sprawling. As they grow, vines may need gentle training and redirection to stay on the support structure.

Use soft ties or clips only when necessary, as the tendrils are typically sufficient to secure the plant. Avoid tying tightly or constricting stems, especially as they swell later in the season. Regular monitoring ensures the plant remains well supported and evenly distributed across the trellis.

How to Harvest, Peel, and Cure Luffa Gourds

Wait until your loofah gourds become mature before harvesting them for use as sponges. Immature fruits don’t have the fully developed dense internal fiber network necessary.

Maturity is typically reached 90 to 120 days after planting, depending on the variety and growing conditions. Mature luffas are lightweight for their size, have a dry, brittle skin that often turns yellow, brown, or mottled. They also may rattle slightly when shaken due to loose seeds inside.

If the gourd is still green and firm, it is not yet ready to harvest. Allow fruits to dry fully on the vine whenever possible, but harvest before a hard frost or prolonged wet weather to avoid decay.

Harvesting Tips

Use clean, sharp garden pruners to cut mature luffas from the vine. Leave a short section of stem attached to avoid tearing the fruit.

Handle gourds gently to prevent bruising or cracking, especially if the skin has started to dry and harden.

If harvesting before the gourds are fully dry — such as before a seasonal cold snap or hurricane warning —allow them to cure indoors in a well-ventilated space away from direct sunlight for several days before peeling.

Preparing Luffa Sponges

Peel the dried luffa by cracking the skin — just tap it against a hard surface or roll it firmly. Once the skin begins to split, peel it off in sections by hand.

You can also soak the gourd in warm water for 15–30 minutes to soften the skin if needed.

After peeling, shake out or rinse away the seeds and remove any residual pulp or sap. Use a hose or bucket of water to thoroughly wash the fiber, repeating as necessary until clean.

Curing Your Loufah Sponge

By Fumikas Sagisavas – Own work, CC0, Link

After peeling and rinsing, place the luffa sponges in direct sunlight or in a warm, dry area with good airflow to dry completely. Rotate them periodically to ensure even drying and to prevent mold.

Once dry, the luffa should feel light and stiff with a tan or pale color. If it still feels damp or soft, continue drying until fully cured.

Properly dried luffas can be stored long-term in a dry place and will not rot or grow mold.

Saving Luffa Seeds

Fully mature seeds can be collected during the peeling process, dried, and stored in a cool, dry place for next season’s planting. Only save seeds from healthy, vigorous plants to maintain genetic quality.

Green Luffa Gourds

You can grow luffa from seed for food or for the handy sponges.
By Dinkun Chen – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Immature gourds that are too green to peel and cure can be composted or used as a novelty vegetable when still young — similar in taste and texture to zucchini.

However, once they begin to toughen, they are no longer suitable for culinary use or sponge harvest.

Growing Luffa from Seed to Sponge Success

Growing luffa from seed is a rewarding endeavor for gardeners with the patience and space to support a long-season vine. From understanding the plant’s vigorous growth habit to staying attentive to care, each stage is essential for a productive harvest.

By the end of the growing season, a well-managed luffa crop can yield not just natural sponges but seeds for the next generation.

Whether you’re cultivating luffa for personal use, gifts, or small-scale sales, the key lies in knowing the right time to harvest and cure the gourds. With the right knowledge and preparation, even first-time growers can achieve sponge-quality results.

Ready to start your own luffa project? Plan ahead, prepare your garden, and give these heat-loving vines the support they need. Your future sponges are just a growing season away.

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What to Plant in May in Florida (to save money on groceries this fall)

What to plant in May in Florida as summer starts

Food prices are climbing fast, with the Tampa Bay area in Florida showing the highest spike in prices in the continental United States over the last year. More of us are growing gardens to to close the nutritional gap between our paychecks and the checkout lane. But if you’ve just started to garden, you may wonder what to plant in May in Florida.

The news isn’t all-good. May is the true test of a Florida gardener’s grit begins. The temperatures are climbing fast, the sun is scorching, and only the toughest plants — and gardeners — will survive to June.

To make things even more interesting, much of Florida is facing a serious drought this year. Watering wisely is going to be just as important as choosing the right crops.

It’s not too late to plant your garden, but you’ll need to focus on heat-hardy, drought-tolerant crops that can handle the summer blast. Plant smart now, and fall will see you adding lots of value to your pantry staples.

Why Planting a Garden in May in Florida is So Hard

Gardening in May in Florida can mean regular watering

Gardening in May comes with a few classic Florida curveballs. The soil heats up and dries out fast, making it harder for seeds to germinate and young plants to get established. Pests like aphids, stink bugs, and caterpillars show up almost overnight, and fungal diseases aren’t far behind once the rains finally start.

It’s a month that rewards quick action, smart plant choices, heavy mulch, and a willingness to water early in the morning before the sun starts boiling everything alive.

Survive May, and you’re officially a Florida gardening veteran.

The real problem with planting May in Florida is that we get the summer heat and blistering sun without the summer rain and it’s lovely cloud cover.

What You CAN Plant in May (even in Florida)

Plant cowpeas in May in Florida

It’s not too late to look for abundance from your home garden – if you plan ahead, develop some patience, and don’t mind getting up early (or staying out late) to water.

Beans, Peas, and More

If you’re serious about growing your own food to cut grocery costs, beans and peas should be at the top of your May planting list. Not only are they some of the easiest crops to grow in Florida’s brutal summer heat, but they’re also packed with protein, fiber, iron, and key nutrients that your pantry—and your budget—will thank you for later.

Over the last year, the cost of protein ingredients — eggs, meat, and fish — saw the highest increase in the Tampa Bay area at 7.8% up from spring 2024.

Shelling peas and dried beans go a long way in delivering protein and fiber during tough financial times.

Southern Peas

Southern peas, including black-eyed peas, cowpeas, and crowder peas, are true Southern staples for a reason. These peas can thrive where other crops fail, fixing nitrogen in the soil and producing reliable harvests even in sandy or dry conditions.

They are an incredible source of affordable, homegrown protein, with one cup of cooked black-eyed peas delivering about 13 grams of protein and 11 grams of fiber. Some great heat-tolerant varieties include ‘Mississippi Silver’ (crowder type), ‘California Blackeye No. 5’ (classic black-eyed pea), and ‘Red Ripper’ (an old heirloom cowpea known for its vigorous growth). Once dried, Southern peas can last up to 2–3 years in airtight storage.

Pigeon Peas

Pigeon peas are another powerhouse plant worth your garden space if you’re growing food for resilience. Originally from Africa and India, pigeon peas are a small shrub that can live for several seasons in frost-free areas of Florida.

They’re drought-resistant and pest-resistant. Even better — they pump nitrogen back into depleted soils, making them a natural fit for Florida’s sandy soil conditions.

The fresh peas are delicious in curries, stews, and rice dishes (think Caribbean “peas and rice”). Dried pigeon peas are a survival food loaded with fiber, potassium, and protein. Plus, once established, pigeon pea plants can produce for up to 3–5 years with minimal care.

While pigeon peas might not deliver a harvest until next January, plant them now for years of delicious nutty flavored beans. You’ll also get months of blooms that produce an intoxicating frangrance and feed the bees during the flower-sparse winter.

Tropical Staples to Plant in May

When Florida’s summer heat kicks into high gear, most traditional crops wave the white flag. But tropical staples like sweet potatoes, boniato, malanga, ginger, and turmeric actually thrive when the sun gets punishing.

These plants aren’t just tough — they’re nutrient-dense, calorie-rich, and ideal for anyone serious about growing their own food to save money.

Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are a classic Florida summer crop, and May is prime time for planting slips. They’re also a dual-purpose food: you can harvest the leaves for nutritious greens all summer, and dig up the starchy roots in the fall.

A medium sweet potato packs about 26 grams of complex carbs, along with beta-carotene, potassium, and fiber. They store incredibly well, lasting up to a year in cool, dry conditions. It’s hard to find a cool, dry place anywhere in Florida, but you can always freeze them for later after blanching or boiling them.

Boniato

Boniato, sometimes called Cuban sweet potato, is a white-fleshed cousin of the common sweet potato, but with a lighter, fluffier texture and a flavor somewhere between a potato and a chestnut.

It loves the Florida heat and poor soils and needs very little water once established. Boniato is a staple in Caribbean and Latin American cooking, especially for roasting, mashing, and making hearty stews.

Malanga

Malanga (Xanthosoma spp.) is another incredible staple crop for South and Central Florida gardeners. It’s a starchy root similar to taro. Malanga is rich in fiber and potassium and highly digestible, making it an important food source for people with dietary sensitivities.

Malanga can be boiled, mashed, fried like chips, or added to soups and stews as a thickener. Once harvested, the corms can last several weeks or even months when kept dry and cool.

Ginger / Turmeric

Ginger and turmeric are tropical rhizomes that love Florida’s muggy summers. They’re slow growers but extremely rewarding: a few seed pieces planted in May can yield a surprising harvest by late fall.

Fresh ginger and turmeric are high-value crops — prices at the store can easily top $5–10 per pound. Plus experts have been lauding their health benefits and medicianl uses for decades — so there’s another way they can help you stretch your buying power.

Growing your own gives you access to anti-inflammatory, antioxidant-rich roots at a fraction of the cost. Both can be frozen, dehydrated, or turned into powders for long-term storage, making them highly useful in both cooking and natural remedies.

Vegetables and Fruits to Plant in May in Florida

May can be a good time to plant fruits like cantaloupes, honeydews, and watermelons. You can also still plant a few vegetables, like winter squashes, Armenian and Asian cucumbers, and certain tomato varieties. However, growing them in Florida’s heat takes a bit of finesse.

Melons

Cantaloupes and Honeydews thrive in Florida’s heat, but they need some shade to avoid sunburn, especially during the peak afternoon heat. Trellising can help keep them off the soil and reduce the risk of fungal disease and pest infestation. These fruits need consistent moisture, but since Florida’s soil drains quickly, mulch is your friend. It helps retain moisture and keep the roots cool.

Watermelon

Watermelons love the heat, but they’re also prone to pests and disease. Trellising can help save space, and keeping the vines off the ground also reduces pest problems. As with melons, regular, light watering is key — but avoid soaking the leaves to prevent mildew.

Watermelon plants may also need shade during the hottest part of the day to reduce stress. My favorite variety is Sugar Baby, because they’re small enough to trellis and mature quickly before disease and pests can destroy them.

Winter Squash

Winter Squashes (or storage squashes) like Calabaza, Seminole pumpkin, and butternut squash can handle the heat, but watch out for pests like aphids and squash bugs. Mulching the soil helps keep moisture in and the fruits off the soil if they’re too large to trellis. Providing some shade, either with cloth or nearby taller plants, can help reduce sunburn and heat stress.

In Florida’s sandy, well-draining soil, make sure you’re watering regularly until the rainy season kicks in. Consider using drip irrigation or soaker hoses for more efficient water delivery. Shade during midday and consistent moisture will help your plants survive and thrive throughout the summer.

Yardlong Beans

Plant yardlong beans in May

Sometimes called asparagus beans or Chinese long beans, yardlong beans thrive in Florida’s climate, even during a drought. Native to Southeast Asia, they love the heat and humidity and will start producing fast, often within just 60 days of planting.

The vines can grow 8 to 10 feet tall, so you’ll want to give them a sturdy trellis.

(Make good use of the shade they provide to protect more sun-senstive plants like peppers).

Each pod can grow over two feet long, but they’re best picked around 18 inches for tenderness. Yardlong beans have a mild, slightly nutty flavor and stay crisp even when cooked, making them perfect for quick stir-fries, light sautés, and even tempura. A few plants can keep a family in fresh beans all summer—and any extra pods can be blanched and frozen for later.

Yes, You CAN Plant Tomatoes in May in Florida

If you missed Florida’s prime tomato-growing months (usually September through April), there are still a few tried-and-true varieties that will survive our hot, humid climate.

Everglades

Everglades Tomatoes are a Florida favorite. These small, cherry-sized tomatoes are incredibly heat-tolerant and resistant to many of the common pests and diseases that can plague tomatoes in Florida.

They thrive in hot weather, making them perfect for planting in May. Their flavor is sweet and tangy, and they produce prolifically, so you can enjoy a steady harvest throughout the summer months.

So, even if you really wanted tomatoes for making sauce, a few extra Everglades tomato plants in your summer garden will provide. These intensely-flavored gems make excellent sauces. Investing in a food mill to remove all the skins and seeds makes quick work of turning out a smooth tomato paste or BBQ sauce.

Sweeties is another excellent choice for Florida gardens. These small, round, red tomatoes are known for their exceptional sweetness. They’re perfect for snacking right off the vine or tossing in salads. Sweeties are also incredibly productive, and their compact growth makes them a good choice for small spaces or container gardening.

Gardener’s Delight is a reliable heirloom cherry tomato that grows well in Florida’s heat. These tomatoes have a rich, classic tomato flavor that’s both sweet and tangy, and they hold up well against disease and heat stress. Gardener’s Delight is a true workhorse in the garden, providing a steady crop even in less-than-ideal conditions.

Large Red Cherry Tomatoes are a also great option. These tomatoes are slightly bigger than traditional cherry tomatoes but still maintain the classic sweetness and firm texture that makes them so popular. They are great for fresh eating, making sauces, or adding to dishes like bruschetta. They are also known for being resistant to cracking and pests, which is important in Florida’s sometimes unpredictable weather.

Tomato Survival Hacks for Florida Summer Tomatoes

To ensure your heirloom tomatoes thrive, be sure to water consistently. But avoid overwatering — cherry tomatoes (especially Everglades) have notoriously thin skins that can split easily.

Mulching helps retain moisture and keeps the roots cool. Trellising your tomatoes keeps them off the ground, making them easier to harvest. It also makes it easier to spray the leaf-footed bugs that love to enjoy your tomatoes before you do. If possible, some afternoon shade helps keep them thriving, especially when temperatures peak in summer.

Last, but certainly not least, challenging temperatures across the country and adjustments to climate change have inspired many gardeners to experiment with shade cloth. I tried this last summer, and while I need to improve my setup structures, I was impressed enough with results to repeat the experiment.

Why Plant Cherry Tomatoes in May?

Cherry tomatoes keep producing through Florida’s heat because their tiny flowers set fruit reliably even when daytime temps soar above 90°F. Large slicer varieties, by contrast, need cooler nights (below 75°F) to germinate pollen. More often than not, regular tomato plants drop blooms when it’s too hot, so you end up with empty trusses instead of ripe fruit.

Smaller fruits also mean cherry plants can support dozens of tomatoes without needing huge amounts of water or nutrients all at once. Their steady, spread-out flowering means you’ll get bites of ripe fruit between heat waves, rather than betting everything on a single truss that might fail in a sudden heat spike. That’s why cherry and grape types are the smart choice for a Florida summer garden.

The Secret to Summer Gardening in Florida

If there is any wisdom I can pass on about what to plant in May in Florida, it is this: The faster a vegetable or fruit produces, the less exposure to heat, sun, spores, and insects it will have to endure.

While some vegetables will happily endure the harsh elements (sweet potatoes, cowpeas, okra, etc.), others are destined to live fast and die young (small melons, cucumbers, etc). This has proven true to me during every season in a wildly changeable climate.

Find the fastest maturing varieties you can for the best results.

Embracing the Slow Burn

Now that you’ve planted your heat-hardy staples — pigeon peas, sweet potato and boniato slips, southern peas, cherry tomatoes, and more — it’s time to step back, stay cool, and let nature do its thing.

Get out of the sun, for pity’s sake!

These crops aren’t in a rush; many take the full summer to deliver a harvest. Use this hot, slow season to relax in the shade, sip cold drinks, and give your garden a light check-in now and then rather than daily toil in the blazing sun.

By the time temperatures start to dip in September, you’ll have a pantry full of nutritious pantry staples. You’ll also be rested and ready for fall — the real growing season in Florida.

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What to Plant in April in Florida

what to plant in April in Florida for harvesting in the summer

April in Florida isn’t for the faint of heart—or the cool-season crops. The days heat up and spring surrenders to summer with a whimper. So, it’s time to embrace the sun-loving, heat-thriving plants that won’t wither under the pressure. Whether you’re in North, Central, or South Florida, this is the month to swap out those fading winter veggies for those that bask in the heat and humidity. So, grab your trowel, slap on some sunscreen, and let’s talk about what to plant in April in Florida—before the summer sun really starts flexing its muscles.

Plant Heat-Loving Staples in April

Staple crops for winter is something to plant in April in Florida

Even in early April, summer starts to creep into our consciousness with midday temps in the high 80s and even 90s. Ironically, this is the perfect time to think about preparing for winter food requirements.

The one thing that still amazes me about gardening in Florida is that we really can grow our own food year round. But  

April in Central Florida is the perfect time to plant staple crops. These tough, drought-tolerant crops thrive in the rising heat, and most are low-maintenance. This means you won’t have to spend hours in the hot sun or pouring rain tending to your garden.

Many help enrich the soil while producing a steady supply of food through the summer. Others, help keep it loose and friable, fighting compaction.

Peanuts: Set-It-and-Forget-It

Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea) are one of the easiest crops to grow in Florida, as long as you have enough room. I don’t have enough room for peanuts, but I have to present these as a great option for those that do. They pack so much nutrition into such a delicious legume, they deserve to top the list as a staple crop for the South.

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Peanuts flower above ground but produce their pods underground — a fascinating process you may have observed if your spouse has a bad squirrel-feeding habit like mine does.

Space them a few inches apart in loose, sandy soil, and they’ll take care of the rest. Peanuts need about four to five months to mature, making them a great long-term crop for Florida’s extended warm season.

Southern Peas: True Heat Warriors

Cowpeas are one easy garden staple you can plant in April in Florida

When the heat starts taking a toll on other vegetables, Southern peas (Vigna unguiculata) just keep growing. Also called cowpeas, black-eyed peas, crowder peas, and cream peas, these legumes have been a Southern staple for centuries, thriving in hot, dry conditions where other crops fail.

Southern peas are easygoing and don’t ask for much—just full sun, well-drained soil, and occasional watering. They grow as bush or vining plants, producing pods packed with protein-rich peas that can be eaten fresh, shelled and dried, or even cooked whole as tender snap beans.

1 Pack Knuckle Purple Hull Cowpeas Seed for Planting -…
  • Seeds for Purple Hull Peas- Knuckle Purple Hull peas are named for large purple hulls filled with cowpeas that have a green color with a purple “eye” when fresh….

Beyond their value as a food crop, Southern peas are also natural soil builders. As legumes, they fix nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for future plantings. Many gardeners use them as a cover crop to enrich the soil while producing a reliable harvest at the same time.

Plant Sweet Potato: For a Bountiful Harvest This Fall

April is the also the perfect time to plant sweet potato and boniato slips. These heat-loving root crops thrive in the rising temperatures and longer days of spring, giving them plenty of time to establish before summer’s peak growth season.

Unlike traditional seed-planted crops, sweet potatoes and boniatos are grown from slips—small rooted cuttings that quickly take off once planted in warm soil.

You can grow your own sweet potato slips but get started as soon as possible in order to give them enough time to produce a crop by December. Sweet potatoes are perennial in Florida, but if they’re still small by winter, they’ll go dormant. You can leave them till spring, but they can get woody if left too long.

One of the best things about planting sweet potatoes and boniatos is how little maintenance they require. Once they start growing, their sprawling vines act as a natural weed barrier, covering the ground and keeping moisture in the soil.

They don’t need much fertilizing, and by late summer or early fall, you’ll be digging up a generous harvest of delicious, nutrient-packed tubers.

Time to Plant Winter Squash in April in Florida

Calabaza is a long storage veg you can plant in April in Florida

April is prime time for planting winter squash in Central Florida, especially heat-loving varieties like Calabaza and Seminole pumpkin.

While the name “winter squash” might make you think they belong in cooler weather, these varieties actually thrive when planted in spring and grown through the long, hot summer. That’s just when they’re perfect for eating.

The name “winter squash” refers to their amazing shelf life. You can keep a ripe, well-cured pumpkin for several months in a cool, dark storage room — all winter long.

Calabaza Squash: The Tropical Powerhouse

Calabaza squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a favorite in Latin American and Caribbean cuisine, known for its deep orange flesh, rich flavor, and resistance to pests and diseases. It thrives in Florida’s heat and humidity, producing sprawling vines that need plenty of space to roam.

The squash itself comes in various shapes, from round and squat to elongated, but all varieties share a sweet, nutty taste that works beautifully in soups, stews, and roasted dishes.

Seminole Pumpkin: Florida’s Native Squash

If there’s one squash perfectly suited to Florida’s climate, it’s the Seminole pumpkin. Grown by the indigenous Seminole people for centuries, this hardy squash is practically indestructible. It shrugs off heat, humidity, drought, and even pests that bother other squash varieties.

The fruits are typically round, with tan or orange skin, and have a dense, sweet flesh similar to butternut squash. Seminole pumpkins store exceptionally well, making them a great choice for gardeners who want a reliable, long-lasting harvest.

Butternut Squash: Sweet, Smooth, and Reliable

Butternut squash is another great choice for Florida gardens in April. While it may not be as pest-resistant as Seminole pumpkin or Calabaza, it makes up for it with its smooth, easy-to-peel skin and rich, creamy texture.

Butternut squash is excellent for roasting, pureeing into soups, or even using in baked goods. Just like the others, butternut squash needs plenty of space, full sun, and warm soil to thrive.

Pigeon Peas the Permaculture Paragon of Survival Gardening

April is a great time plant pigeon peas (Cajanus cajan), a hardy, drought-tolerant legume that thrives in Florida’s warm climate. These perennial bean bushes can grow 10 feet high, and their cheerful yellow blooms drive pollinators bonkers.

Since they’re perennials, you can plant them nearly any time in Florida, but April and May are the last months to plant in time for a really big crop at harvest time. That’s just my experience. There are faster maturing varieties you can find for sale online.

These peas grow well in sandy soils and are a staple in many Caribbean and South Asian dishes. Not only do you get delicious peas but also nitrogen-fixing benefits for your soil. The plants can handle the heat and are relatively low-maintenance, making them perfect for Florida gardens.

Edible Hibiscus Varieties for Florida Gardens

Another fun and flavorful addition to your garden this month is edible hibiscus. Florida’s climate is ideal for cultivating various edible hibiscus species, each offering unique culinary and ornamental benefits. Here are some noteworthy varieties:

Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa)

Known for its tangy, cranberry-like flavor, the flowers and calyxes of Roselle are perfect for making teas, jams, and even sauces.

This tropical plant loves Florida’s climate and adds a splash of color to the garden, with its vibrant red flowers. Plus, it’s an easy-to-grow perennial that thrives in the heat, offering both beauty and culinary delight to your garden.

Long Leaf Edible Hibiscus (Abelmoschus manihot)

Also known as the “Salad Tree,” this plant thrives in Florida’s USDA zones 9-11. It produces vibrant foliage and flowers, reaching heights of 10-12 feet. It’s very nutritious, and the leaves have a tart, rhubarb-like flavor, suitable for cooked dishes or fresh salads.

Cranberry Hibiscus (Hibiscus acetosella)

Renowned for its deep burgundy leaves and pink-red flowers, this variety is both visually striking and edible. The leaves and calyces (the cup-like structures beneath the flowers) impart a tangy flavor, ideal for teas, juices, and salads.

Hot Weather Herbs to Plant in April in Florida

April is the perfect time to plant out your herb garden here in Florida. Many of the most flavorful culinary herbs that thrive in the heat. Here are some excellent options for Florida’s hot, humid climate:

Cumin

Cumin thrives in hot, dry conditions, making Florida’s summer weather an ideal environment for this spice. Known for its earthy, warm flavor, cumin is a key ingredient in many cuisines, including Indian, Middle Eastern, and Mexican.

It’s a bit of a long-growing herb, so plant it early in April, and be patient — it typically takes several months to mature. Its seeds are harvested for use in both cooking and spice blends.

Ginger

Ginger loves the tropical Florida heat, making it a perfect addition to your garden. It requires plenty of moisture, so be sure to keep the soil consistently damp but not soggy. Harvest the rhizomes, or underground stems, to use in cooking, teas, and making .

Ginger adds a zesty, spicy kick to dishes, from stir-fries to baked goods, and is great for soothing an upset stomach.

Mexican Tarragon

Mexican tarragon (Tagetes lucida) is an herb that adds a bold, anise-like flavor to dishes. Unlike regular tarragon, Mexican tarragon is more heat-tolerant, making it ideal for Florida’s climate.

It’s often used in Mexican and Southwestern cooking, especially in sauces, salsas, and meat dishes. Plus, it has lovely yellow flowers that attract pollinators, adding both beauty and function to your garden.

Turmeric

Turmeric, with its vibrant golden-yellow rhizomes, is another tropical herb that thrives in Florida’s warm, humid conditions. It requires rich, well-draining soil and a lot of water, but the effort is well worth it for the health benefits and bold flavor it provides.

Turmeric is commonly used in curries and teas, and its active compound, curcumin, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Harvesting your own fresh turmeric rhizomes is as satisfying as it is flavorful.

Basil

Basil loves the heat and sunshine of Florida, making it a perfect addition to your herb garden. Whether you’re growing sweet basil for pesto or Thai basil for its peppery kick, this herb will flourish in the warm temperatures of spring and summer.

Like cucumbers, basil plants will grow fast and furious and tend to bolt quickly in the heat. So either keep your basil trimmed regularly or plant out in succession.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass is a tropical herb that thrives in Florida’s hot, humid climate. It’s perfect for adding a citrusy zing to teas, curries, and even soups. With its tall, grass-like stalks, it also makes a lovely ornamental addition to the garden.

Oregano

This hardy herb is known for its ability to withstand the Florida heat. Whether you prefer the Mediterranean variety or Mexican oregano, both are well-suited to our hot summers and add bold, savory flavors to a variety of dishes.

Note that oregano can suffer from flooding, so make sure to plant in sandy, well-draining soil on a high-spot in the garden. Alternatively, you can keep it in containers — terra cotta planters provide the best conditions for Mediterranean plants.

Rosemary

Rosemary is another robust, sun-loving herb that thrives in Florida’s heat, offering both culinary and ornamental value. Its woody fragrance and needle-like leaves make it a favorite in Mediterranean cuisine, and it can withstand dry conditions once established.

Rosemary is another culinary herb that requires elevation in the garden. Summer downpours can drown them, resulting in a quick and dramatic plant death. Again, terracotta pots are a savior for any plant that needs more arid conditions.

Mint

Mint loves warmth and is less touchy about excess moisture. I know a lot of gardeners say it can spread quickly. They recommend keeping it in pots to keep it from overtaking your garden.

I’ve never had that happen in the 30+ years I’ve been gardening in Florida.

Never.

If the summer heat doesn’t kill it dead before it can spread, the spring dry season keeps it from thriving.

Honestly, the best reason for keeping it in containers is to keep the poor things alive through the worst extremes of our climate.

With the right containers, however, you can have a thriving collection of mint plants to add to use in cooking, confections, tea, and making extracts. Place in the shady spots of the garden and use pot trays to ensure adequate moisture.

Plant Heat Resistant and Fast-Cropping Vegetables in April in Florida

Now that we’ve got those reliable staple foods out of the way, let’s look at some seasonal fruits and vegetables to plant in April in Florida.

Beans

April is a great time to plant the last crop of beans of spring. If you haven’t already, now’s the time to get pole beans and bush beans in the ground.

I personally choose fast-maturing bush beans this late in the spring. They will produce prolifically in one or two easy to pick crops within 6-8 weeks — before the heat takes over.  

But the real star of the show this month? Yardlong beans.

Yardlong beans are the ultimate heat-loving climber.

April marks the start of yardlong bean season.  (Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis) This is a moment worth celebrating if you love a high-yield, low-maintenance crop. Originally from Southeast Asia, these beans are built for Florida’s relentless sun and humidity.

Unlike traditional green beans, yardlong beans grow fast and furious but need hot weather to really thrive. They produce sprawling vines that need a trellis or support system to keep them off the ground.

In just a couple of months, they’ll start pumping out impressively long, slender pods — often reaching 18 inches or more — that dangle in pairs like green or red noodles swaying in the breeze.

Their flavor is a bit different from regular green beans—milder, slightly nutty, with a hint of sweetness—and they have a crisp-tender texture that holds up beautifully in cooking.

A staple in many Asian cuisines, yardlong beans are perfect for stir-fries, sautés, curries, and soups. They have a knack for soaking up flavors. Use garlic and soy sauce for Asian inspiration, or coconut milk and nutmeg for a taste of the Caribbean. A quick toss in olive oil with salt and pepper and garlic provides an Italian taste profile.

Hot Weather Fruits and Vegetables to Plant in April in Florida

April is also a good time plant melons in Florida. With rising temperatures and long sunny days, these heat-loving vines will take off. Cantaloupe, honeydew, and watermelon all thrive in Florida’s warm climate, but each has its own personality in the garden.

Cantaloupe: Sweet and Musky

Cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. reticulatus) is a fast-growing melon that loves full sun and well-draining soil. The vines produce round, netted fruits with orange, fragrant flesh that’s packed with natural sweetness.

Give them plenty of space, regular watering, and good air circulation to keep powdery mildew at bay. I personally trellis all my melons if size allows, and you can support cantaloupes with leftover net bags used for onions and citrus.

Honeydew: Smooth, Cool, and Refreshing

Honeydew melons (Cucumis melo var. inodorus) are similar to cantaloupes but have smooth, pale green skin and firmer, subtly sweet flesh. They need the same growing conditions—full sun, warm soil, and plenty of room to spread.

Unlike cantaloupes, honeydews don’t “slip” off the vine when ripe, so you’ll need to check for a creamy yellowish hue on the skin and a slightly soft blossom end to know when they’re ready to harvest.

Watermelon: The Ultimate Summer Treat

Most watermelons (Citrullus lanatus) need even more space than cantaloupes or honeydews, but they’re worth it. These vines stretch far and wide, producing large, juicy fruits that are the ultimate Florida summer refreshment.

If you don’t have the garden space for growing big watermelons, you can plant personal-sized varieties. Again, I recommend trellising. Sugar Baby Watermelons are my favorite. They take up little space when trained on a support, and they grow and ripen quicker than full-size varieties.

Watermelons love the heat but require consistent watering, especially while the fruits are developing. To know when they’re ripe, look for a dried tendril near the fruit’s stem and a yellow spot where the melon has been resting on the ground.

Perfect for Florida Summers

All three melons do best in sandy, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter mixed in. Give them deep, infrequent watering to encourage strong root growth, and keep an eye out for pests like aphids and cucumber beetles. By planting in April, you’ll be enjoying sweet, homegrown melons just in time for the peak of summer.

Get Cucumbers and Summer Squash in the Ground

If you want fresh, crisp cucumbers and tender summer squash, now’s the time to plant them in Central Florida. These fast-growing plants thrive in warm weather, but there’s one important step you don’t want to skip—trellising!

With Florida’s rainy season on the horizon, keeping your cucumbers and squash off the ground will help prevent disease, reduce pest problems, and make harvesting a whole lot easier.

Cucumbers: Crisp, Refreshing, and Quick to Produce

Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) grow fast in Florida’s spring heat, producing fruit in as little as 50 days. Whether you prefer slicing cucumbers for fresh eating or pickling varieties for homemade pickles, they’ll all benefit from vertical growing.

You can get a longer cucumber harvest by sowing starts in succession. Cucumbers live fast and die young, so use generously sized cell trays (even better — use soil blocks) to sow cucumber seeds for planting out every three weeks for a continuous harvest.

You can start them as early as January and keep planting them out until May if you’re willing to cover during cold nights and provide shade cloth in May and June. This is even easier to do if you grow them in containers.

Summer Squash

Zucchini and yellow squash (Cucurbita pepo) are garden favorites, but Florida’s humidity can be tough on them. Like cucumbers, summer squash plants benefit from support—especially vining varieties.

Training them onto a trellis or staking them upright keeps the leaves dry, helps prevent fungal issues, and makes it harder for pests like squash bugs to hide.

With Florida’s rainy season approaching, ground-level vines can quickly become a soggy mess. Wet foliage leads to fungal diseases, and damp soil invites slugs, pill bugs, and other pests that love to snack on tender squash and cucumbers.

Only For the Brave: Time to Plant Sweet Corn or Dent Corn

April is the time to plant sweet corn or dent corn in Florida, but this crop isn’t for the faint of heart. Corn requires fertile, well-draining soil, which can be a challenge in Florida’s sandy ground.

It also doesn’t love being too wet, so managing moisture—especially with the state’s rainy season on the horizon — can be tricky.

In Florida’s heat, pests are another obstacle. Corn is prone to issues with aphids, corn earworms, and even wildlife like squirrels. Regular monitoring and pest control measures will be essential if you want to keep your crop safe.

While I will not be planting sweet corn this April, I wanted to mention it, since it’s the last month of spring worth the effort. Fall and winter is usually easier, but if you have the room and time to pamper them, it’s often worth it.

Keep plenty of bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) on hand and don’t get lazy about your spraying schedule if you plan to get to eat any of it.

Pepper and Tomato Plants to Get Into the Ground in April

April is the last month of spring to plant pepper and tomato plants in Florida, but it’s important to be mindful of the heat when choosing varieties.

Peppers (Chili or Sweet)

Whether you’re growing spicy chili peppers or sweet bell peppers, April is last month to put pepper plants into the garden until fall. Note that it’s a bit late to grow them outdoors from seed — although you could start them indoors from seed and plant out in August.

Peppers love heat and sunshine, making them a great choice for Florida’s warm climate. But they easily scorch in the hot summer sun. But with the right care, they’ll deliver a bountiful harvest.

Shade cloth during the hottest hours of the day can help keep them protected, while a thick layer of hay or other organic mulch can keep their roots cool and hydrated.

Tomatoes for Florida Summers

For those eager to get their tomatoes going, cherry tomato plants are your best bet. Regular slicing or saucing tomatoes will definitely start to struggle in the Florida heat come June. Even more frustratingly, they require lower temperatures at night to set fruit. So, even if you keep them healthy and pristine — free from pests or blight — they won’t set fruit as nighttime temps climb into the mid 70s.

But cherry tomatoes are smaller, more heat-tolerant, and perfect for Florida’s climate.

You might even want to consider Everglades tomatoes, a variety specifically adapted to Florida’s conditions. They’re North America’s only “native” tomatoes, having become naturalized to Florida many hundreds of years ago.

Every other tomato on the market today was developed in Europe from South American varieties. However, Everglades were brought directly to Florida from Peru, and they’re pretty much the same species that still grows in the Andes today.

In fact, Everglades tomatoes are a distinct species (Solanum pimpinellifolium) from even the heirloom varieties we grow in the U.S. (Solanum lycopersicum).

 These tiny, hardy tomatoes are incredibly resilient and prolific, producing fruit through the hottest months of summer and often through winter, as well.

And while they’re too tiny to make a BLT, it won’t take long until you have several gallons of these little gems that make the world’s best barbecue sauce.

Time to Plant in April in Florida Before the Summer Heat Kicks In!

April is your last big window to get warm-season crops in the ground before Florida’s summer heat makes gardening a real challenge. The longer you wait, the tougher it gets—so grab your seeds, slips, and transplants and get growing!

With the right choices, your garden will be thriving well into the hotter months, rewarding you with fresh veggies, herbs, and fruits.

Don’t let the Florida sun catch you off guard—plant now and enjoy the harvest before the real heat sets in!

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What We’re Planting in February in Florida

Planting in February in Florida includes lettuce and green beans

December and January were weird, am I right? How about that whole week of winter? Usually, Florida gardeners are doing the majority of their spring planting in February. I don’t know about you, but I certainly didn’t feel confident about starting anything in the greenhouse. Too often, temperatures will drop into the 30s and 40s in mid-March. So be prepared to cover tender vegetable plants or bring tiny seedlings indoors.

Here on the Gulf Coast, the two major hurricanes in the fall and the persistantly cold weather in December meant a non-starter on our spring seed sowing. My fall tomatoes went in late (in November), and managed to survive the cold spells. So, I’m just going with those. I do have some peppers ready to plant out and I did start some cucumbers that I’ll plant out soon.

It pays to follow the forecast and be prepared for anything and everything. However, for the most part, it’s definitely time to get planting in February, wherever in Florida you live.

South Florida

Gardeners in Zones 10-11 usually find that they can keep their starter trays outdoors through most of February. You’ll want to keep them under cover and move indoors in the case of a cold snap.

In all zones, planting in February in Florida includes starting pepper plants for summer.
South Florida gardeners may find their fall vegetables are still cropping

Start Indoors in February for South Florida

In February, we’re sowing the following starter plants:

  • basil
  • cantaloupe
  • corn
  • cucumbers (more)  
  • eggplant
  • honeydew
  • peppers (more)
  • summer squash
  • tomatoes (more)
  • watermelon
  • winter squash

Other edible vegetables you can start indoors in February in South Florida Zones 10-11 include:

  • chives
  • cilantro
  • dill
  • fennel
  • luffa
  • marjoram
  • oregano
  • parsley
  • rosemary
  • thyme

Direct Sow in February for South Florida

I like to start almost all of my vegetable garden in cells or soil blocks and plant out in a few weeks. But I do direct sow a few things that simply perform better when planted directly.

Other edible garden plants suitable for direct sowing in February in Florida Zones 10-11 include:

  • arugula
  • beets
  • bush beans
  • cabbage
  • carrots
  • cassava
  • chaya
  • collards
  • comfrey
  • corn
  • daikon
  • ginger
  • green onions
  • Irish (white) potatoes
  • kohlrabi
  • leeks
  • lettuce
  • mustard
  • okra
  • peas
  • pole beans
  • radish
  • shallots
  • sweet potato slips
  • Swiss chard
  • turnips

Central Florida

The central strip of the state that extends from the Gulf Coast to the Atlantic covers Zone 9b and 10a. Zone 10a includes the cities of Tampa and Orlando, while some of the more inland areas remain in 9b. Ocala and Gainesville are in 9a. Jacksonville is in zone 9b.

Even though Jacksonville is technically located in the north of the state, its proximity to the coast means a warmer climate. Keep track of the different microclimates in your garden and adjust as needed to meet those conditions.

Sow Indoors in February for Central Florida

Gardeners in Central Florida in Zones 9a to 9b can sow starter plants indoors until they’re well established enough to plant out at the end of March:

  • basil
  • cantaloupe
  • Cape gooseberry
  • chives
  • cilantro
  • cucumbers
  • dill
  • eggplant
  • leeks
  • luffa
  • marjoram
  • okra
  • oregano
  • parsley
  • peppers, chili
  • peppers, sweet
  • rosemary
  • summer squash
  • thyme
  • tomatoes
  • winter squash

Direct Sow in February for Central Florida

Central Florida gardeners can sow many cold-hardy vegetables directly, if they prefer:

  • arugula
  • beans, bush, and pole
  • beets
  • broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • cabbage
  • carrots
  • cauliflower
  • collards
  • comfrey
  • corn
  • daikon
  • green onions
  • Irish potatoes
  • kale
  • kohlrabi
  • lettuce
  • mustard
  • peas
  • pumpkins
  • radish
  • spinach
  • sweet potato slips
  • Swiss chard
  • turnips
  • watermelon

North Florida

North Florida gardeners find themselves in Zone 9a and 9b. A small few are in 8b, after the USDA zone map update of 2023.

But most of the northern span of the state is solidly placed in zone 9, which includes the city of Tallahassee and most of the panhandle.

Florida Gardeners along the Gulf Coast near Pensacola and Panama City may find that their proximity to water gives them more leeway for planting early. To pinpoint your growing zone, use the search tool on the USDA website.

Sow Indoors in February in North Florida

The last frost date for Zone 9 is in February, but it pays to be cautious considering how eratic our weather has been. North Florida gardeners may prefer to get a jump on spring by starting the following seeds indoors:

  • cantaloupe
  • chives
  • cilantro
  • cucumber
  • dill
  • eggplant
  • marjoram
  • oregano
  • parsley
  • peppers, chili, and sweet
  • pumpkins
  • rosemary
  • summer squash
  • thyme
  • tomatoes
  • winter squash

Sow Direct in February in North Florida

Temperatures will remain low enough for many cool-season vegetables that you can plant directly in Zone 9:

  • arugula
  • beans, bush, and pole
  • beets
  • broccoli
  • cabbage
  • carrots
  • cauliflower
  • collards
  • corn
  • garlic
  • green onions
  • Irish potatoes
  • kale
  • kohlrabi
  • lettuce
  • mustard
  • onion sets
  • peas
  • radish
  • spinach
  • Swiss chard
  • turnips

Getting Ready for Your Planting in February in Florida

It sometimes seems like the seasons change too quickly in Florida. And yes, we do actually have seasons. A few years of gardening here will teach you how to note the differences, and you’ll soon feel them in your bones.

It also sometimes seems like you have to plant everything all at once if you hope to get any kind of yield. The mildness of spring can quickly become the sweltering heat of summer. That’s if you don’t get a surprise frost in March!

But relax and take it one step at a time. If you start sowing your spring seeds in late January or in February, you’ll find you can pace yourself. You still have time for some cool-season vegetables early in the year, so take advantage of it.

Warm-season vegetables, like peppers and tomatoes, can be potted up as they grow until it’s safe to plant them into the garden. Be prepared to cover anything outdoors, if necessary, but otherwise, succession planting is your friend.

If you need a tool that will help you keep track of what to plant and when, as well as some helpful advice on the best vegetable varieties to plant in Florida, check out our Florida Gardening Planner. You’ll also find even more vegetable varieties for planting in February in Florida. You can purchase it in print from Amazon or as a digital download on Etsy to print out as needed.

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What to Plant in January in the Florida Garden

Napa Cabbage is a good choice to plant in January for Florida Gardeners

I hate to say it, but Hurricanes Helene and Milton actually gave me a chance to regroup. I could sit back, think hard, and approach my winter garden more thoughtfully. They may not pay off, but it also gave me the opportunity to take some chances. But now it’s time to figure out what to plant in January.

We’re still cleaning up after the hurricanes. There’s still a lot of work to do, but my first step was to detox the garden beds. It seems that seawather inundated every square foot of my active gardening space. Plants don’t like seawater. Not a bit. This resulted in the loss of nearly everything except some very established ornamentals. So, flushing out the salt water from the storm surge from Hurricane Helene was my top gardening priority.

Some Gardening Product Recommendations

Some very nice horiticultural companies reached out and offered me their products to help restore the soil. The first was Elm Dirt, which I used to restore the potted plants that were my fall inventory. The fact that most of them survived after sitting in about a foot of saltwater overnight is a miracle.

Elm Dirt Plant Juice Organic Fertilizer for All Plants – Indoor or Outdoor (1 Bottle)
  • Organic Plant Food: Elm Dirt Plant Food is a premium organic fertilizer crafted with utmost care and dedication. It harnesses the power of premium worm castings and high-quality organic nutrients, making it an ideal choice for nourishing a wide range of plants. From house plants to gardens, shrubs, roses, and even hydrangeas.

Another great company that offered their assistance was Simple Grow Solutions. They provided me a nice big bottle of their Sea Hume product to help restore the structural damage in my soil after the flood.

Some post-storm research suggested that humic acid and biochar may help remediate any long-lasting damage, so I was excited to try their product.

I’ve been making and applying my own biochar for the last couple of years, but had no ready source of humic acid. And yes, the irony that sea kelp may help sea-polluted soil didn’t fail to amuse.

Sea Kelp for Lawn & Plants- OMRI Listed for Organic Use- Seaweed Soil Treatment for Turf Grass &…
  • Seaweed 8%: Liquid Sea Kelp Concentrate blended with Ascophyllum Nodosum Seaweed harvested in the Icy North Atlantic.
  • Humic Acid 1%: Sea Hume is a Highly Concentrated form of Liquefied Carbon Derived from the Highest Quality Humate Source, Leonardite. Leonardite is Considered by many to be the Highest Quality form of Humic Acid.

Last, but not least, my cuttings were not only also soaked for hours in seawater, but were late to potting up. If I was going to recover my inventory with any speed in time for spring sales, I needed to pamper them as much as possible to ensure they hadn’t been set back any further.

The folks at Smart Grower sent me a package of their SuperCharge Mycorrhizal Fungi Blend I used when potting them up. I’ll follow up with my results from them in another post, but I do recommend this stuff highly.

Mycorrhizal Fungi with Beneficial Bacteria, Trichoderma, Sea Kelp, Molasses, Yucca, Smart Grower…
  • Save Sick Plants Fast – Revive struggling plants with a powerful blend of Mycorrhizal Fungi, Trichoderma, and Bacillus that restores root health and boosts nutrient uptake for vibrant growth

January is a Month of Transitions

January doesn’t just mark the start of a new year, it’s also the time to transition from cool-season crops to warm-season crops — at least in Central and South Florida.

Depending on the forecast, you can start planting warm-season crops in South Florida, and start warm-season crops indoors in North and Central Florida.

There’s also plenty of time to start fast-growing cool-season crops, like lettuces, spinaches, and cabbages. In North Florida, you could probably even still grow those that take a bit longer, like cauliflower and brocolli. No promises, though, as the climate has become increasingly erratic over the last decade.

I generally start all my vegetable plants in soil blocks or cell trays, anyway. (Except for those that really MUST be direct sown, like beans and peas. This allows me to make the most of succession planting and filling in the odd gaps here and there for more production.

We’re supposed to get an Arctic Blast over the next two weeks, so I’ll be sowing indoors exclusively and working to keep things toasty through the month.

What to Plant in January Indoors

The good news is that if you get the urge to garden and plant in January, it’s one of the times in Florida when you can pretty much start everything and anything. Start warm-season vegetables indoors, especially the long-season ones like tomatoes and peppers.

It’s also not too late to start some cool-season vegetables outdoors, particularly varieties that mature quickly.

Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes year round in Florida

I always grow tomatoes. I always grow more tomatoes than I need. Sometimes, I sell the starter plants at local markets in the spring, but we’re thinking of relocating next year, and my focus has been on downsizing my inventory.

In Zone 10, you can start tomatoes from late December through January for planting out in late February. You can also start them indoors in Zones 9, though you’ may ‘ll need to be prepared to pot them up at least once if they outgrow their starter cells. It’s really one of the best arguments for using soil blocks.

You may even have tomatoes growing from fall, like I do. Despite the saltwater flood, I got a plethora of volunteers over winter. Just be prepared to cover them as necessary.

I normally rely on varieties like Gardener’s Delight for salads, and Marglobe for slicing, and San Marzano for sauce. I know a lot of people recommend Roma for Florida, but I’ve honestly found they’re too susceptible to fungal disease to produce well.

The Everglades seem to make their own arrangements.

If you’re not sure which varieties of tomatoes to look for, check out my list of the best vegetable varieties for Florida.

Peppers

Peppers are perennial in Florida

Peppers don’t seem to be fazed by any kind of weather in my zone. Unless they’re hit by Whitefly or bacterial wilt, they’re nearly indestructible and certainly perennial. My tabasco peppers dropped all their leaves after the seawater flood, but are starting to leaf out and grow pretty abundantly.

You can start both sweet peppers and hot varieties indoors. Both types require a lot of time to mature and fruit, and they also produce more fruit if you prune them back at 12”. This means that it feels like forever before you get any peppers at all.

For this reason, start peppers as soon as reasonable or possible so they have a significant head start before spring. They take so long, it’s even worth setting up space indoors with a grow light if you really love peppers.

Melons

I have finally mastered watermelons – and the secret for me seems to grow small varieties, like Sugar Baby, and trellis them. I’ll try to fill up every trellis I can improvise now that I know what works best for me.

Cantaloupe and Honeydew are usually pretty reliable for me. Zones 10 and 11 can start any of them indoors in January, while Zone 9 should wait until next month.

While cucumbers are technically a type of melon, they quickly outgrow their seed tray cells and are too sensitive to cold to plant out in January. I’ll be starting these in cell trays so I can pull them indoors if necessary.

Many home gardeners find they don’t transplant well, so they prefer to direct sow. If you haven’t been successful with them to date, try experimenting with both methods to see what works for you.

Squash

Florida Seminole Pumpkin

Winter squash is a breeze in Zone 10a, but I haven’t mastered the knack of summer varieties. I planted out cocozelle zuchinni in November on a whim, and they look healthy and strong now. I’m just not sure how well they’ll produce.

Corn

Freeze damage on corn stalks
Damage on corn from the Big Christmas Freeze 2022

Corn is another vegetable garden staple whose success seems to elude me here on the Gulf Coast. I did have it sussed a couple of years ago, and had a beautiful stand of Early Golden Bantam growing. Then the freak 3-night freeze of Christmas 2022 killed them all off.

If you have the space and the patience and enough Spinosad, January is a good time to start your corn in Central or South Florida.

When it comes to corn, Zones 10 and 11 can plant in January, while North Florida gardeners should wait until February.

Herbs

I only occasionally sow and grow herbs, and that’s because they tend to be much cheaper to buy than the time and attention they take to grow in my climate. Most culinary herbs prefer a drier climate than I can provide. I do have a few basil volunteers I’m tending.

Start both perennial and annual herbs indoors in January. Pinch back basil aggressively until planting out to increase bushiness.

Plant in January Outdoors

January is definitely not too late to plant another round of winter vegetables. I often opt for quick-growing varieties for this reason.

Brassicas

Early Jersey Wakefield cabbage is ready in 60 to 70 days. Collards and Brazilian broccoli are very heat tolerant and will continue to flourish into early summer, even though they’re technically cool-season veg.

Collards are a good choice to plant in January, as they're very heat tolerant and will produce through spring and summer.

Asian cabbages, bok choy, mustard, tatsoi, and other brassicas are also good candidates to plant in January. If you’re in Zone 9, you can even have time for cauliflower and celery. Those in Zones 10 and 11 should look for quick-maturing varieties, however.

Peas and Green Beans

In Zone 10, green beans are a good choice to plant in January.

January may be your last chance to plant garden peas and snow peas. It’s well worth the effort, and if if we get the long, cold winter that was predicted, take advantage of it.

You can also plant green beans in Zone 11, as well.

Root Vegetables

Consider adding some root vegetables too, like carrots and rutabaga. If you don’t think the cool weather will hold, plant radishes, most of which will be ready in 28 to 45 days. I recently sowed Daikon and French Breakfast radish, and there’s still enough winter days left to sow more.

Turnips are also quicker to harvest than other root veg, and generally more heat tolerant as well.

Onions

Alliums are nice additions to the mid-winter garden, and again, if you’re concerned the weather will get too hot too quickly, green onions grow quickly. Otherwise, it’s not too late for onion sets, leeks, or shallots.

No matter where you are in Florida, your county ag extension office can offer some reliable options for your gardening schedule.

But don’t be afraid to experiment a little, either.

Flowers to Plant in January

For you floral fanatics, January also offers a lot of opportunities.

Most perennial flowering plants do best when planted in the fall. If sown from seed, it gives any cold snaps the ability to break the seed’s dormancy. When planted in the early fall, the plants have time to get established to then regrow and bloom in the spring.

But that doesn’t mean it’s too late to get them started now. You can sow starts of tropical salvia, blue salvia, purple coneflower and other perennials in January to plant out in February.

As far as annuals are concerned, you can sow or plant out cool-season flowers, like pansies, petunias, nigella, and bachelor’s buttons in January. A light frost will not set them back if they’re grown from seed. And placed with some protection from larger specimens will help starter plants weather through any cold snaps.

In North and Central Florida, you can plant Asters. For South Florida gardeners, add nasturtiums.

In North Florida, you can start lavender and snapdragons. Central Florida gardeners can plant dianthus. In balmy South Florida, calendula, nicotania, and sunflowers are three you can plant in January.

Plan Ahead or Pants It?

There’s a lot to be said for the joy of discovering a new flower or vegetable that you can start right away. Especially in the dreary days following the let-down of the holiday season. What greater joy than finding that there ARE many ways you can get started on a brand-new gardening season?

But there’s also much to advocate for when it comes to planning ahead. Knowing ahead of time what you’re going to plant and when you need to start it is one reliable way of providing food security for your family.

It’s certainly one way to narrow down those plants and varieties work best in your microclimate. Planning your garden ahead of time leaves a record of your successes and failures. In fact, I would have given up on watermelons and cucumbers years ago if I hadn’t planned for trellising two varieties and made note of a very abundant harvest.

I’ve compiled a garden planning tool for this very method. If you’d like to create a more productive garden that makes the most of Florida’s eccentric gardening calendar, check out my Florida Gardening Planner. (Those in Louisiana and Georgia will find the same), available on Amazon in digital download or print.

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The Best Time to Plant Tomatoes in Florida

Everglades tomatoes in Florida

I’ve seen and heard many Florida gardeners complain that tomatoes just do not grow well here. It’s too hot, it’s too buggy, it’s too wet, or the alligators eat them all, or something.

That’s just not true.

Tomatoes grow wonderfully here in Florida. In fact, not a few miles away from my place is Ruskin, Florida — the home of “Ruskin Tomatoes,” which I recall were quite famous when I was a kid back in the late 70s.

I suspect they were simply the first fresh tomatoes available in U.S. grocery stores after the winter hungry gap. This was before all the imported foods from Mexico and South America flooded the market and spoiled us with year-round fresh produce in the middle of winter.

And this isn’t a digression — in fact, it’s the salient point.

The reason Ruskin Tomatoes were so early to the market was because we can grow tomatoes in the winter.

The flipside of this awesome boon is that we CAN’T grow them in the summer!

(Except for ONE single particular type of tomato — more on that below!)

Winter isn’t the gardener’s enemy in Florida — summer is. And it isn’t getting any better.

The storms and occasional hurricanes were bad enough, but now we’re dealing with heat indices in the triple digits. This is the new norm. It certainly isn’t the climate I moved into 32 years ago.

Why Gardeners Don’t Know When To Plant Tomatoes in Florida

The reason most gardeners think you can’t grow tomatoes in Florida (especially new ones and transplants from other states) is because:

  1. They don’t understand our very weird climate cycles.
  2. They haven’t learned our convoluted planting schedules.
  3. They don’t really know how tomatoes evolved to grow.

Florida’s subtropical climate provides a uniquely annoying setting for gardening, particularly when it comes to growing tomatoes.

The state’s steamy temperatures, blistering sunshine, and long growing season may seem ideal for these popular plants. While summer is the usual time to grow tomatoes in most parts of the country, Florida summers are simply too much for tomatoes.

Tomatoes are a jungle creeper, evolving in cooler, dryer elevations of South America. They’re meant for mild and moist conditions under the forest canopy, not in the blistering sunlight.

If you live in Indiana or Ohio, you want to pump as much sunlight into these guys as you can during your short growing season. But, Florida is closer to the equator, with a higher UV rating. And increasing development and land clearing is turning the state into a seriously dangerous hot spot.

So, consider several factors when planning your planting schedule, especially given the recent updates to USDA hardiness zones in 2023, when most of the state moved up a growing zone.

Here’s a detailed look at these considerations:

Subtropical Climate

Florida’s subtropical climate means that it experiences mild winters and hot, humid summers. This climate allows for multiple growing seasons, making it possible to grow tomatoes both in the fall and late winter.

However, the extreme heat and humidity of summer can pose challenges, including increased pest and disease pressure, which can affect the health and productivity of tomato plants.

Updated USDA Hardiness Zones

In late 2023, the USDA updated its hardiness zones, which reflect the average annual minimum winter temperature. These updates have shifted some areas of Florida into warmer zones. For example, parts of central Florida have moved from Zone 9 to Zone 10.

Understanding these new zones is crucial for determining the best planting times and selecting appropriate tomato varieties that can thrive in the updated climate conditions.

Best Times to Plant Tomatoes in Florida

Now that you understand the backstory, here’s some actionable information you can use right now when planning your Florida garden.

Because right now is the best time to start your tomato seeds.

Fall: The Optimal Planting Season for Tomatoes in Florida

Fall is considered the best time to plant tomatoes in Florida. The weather conditions during this season are typically favorable, with cooler temperatures and lower humidity levels compared to the sweltering summer months.

This change in temperatures reduces the risk of diseases and pest infestations, which can wreak havoc on tomato plants.

There is an increased risk of hurricanes and tropical storms as the season progresses but fall and winter are usually mild enough to replant should my garden get washed out.

In fact, in Central and South Florida, you can pretty much plant out tomato starter plants any time between September and March. There can be a few chilly nights in late December and January, but if you avoid the two weeks of actual “winter,” you can just put starters in the ground at any time.

When to Start Florida Fall Tomatoes from Seed Indoors

Tomatoes will do best when planted out as well-developed seedlings of 6 or 8 weeks. For that reason, you want to start your fall tomatoes in mid-summer. You can start them out of doors, as long as they’re protected from heavy rainfall.

However — and this seems to be an increasingly annoying fact of Florida gardening life — understand that excessive heat can prevent your tomato seeds from germinating.

When I first started growing fall tomatoes in earnest — maybe 10 years ago — I didn’t have any trouble with outdoor germination in the summer as long as I could keep my seed trays covered and protected from washout by summer storms.

During the last four or five years, however, I’ve had to start them indoors in the summer to ensure good germination. Except for Everglades tomatoes (which are a distinct species), many a seedling tray has sat empty for weeks without a sprout. I’ve begun starting more seeds indoors as a result.

  • Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in June through July.
  • Zone 9: Start seeds indoors in July.
  • Zone 10: Start seeds indoors in July
  • Zone 11: Start seeds indoors in mid to late August.

When to Plant Fall Tomatoes Out into the Garden

  • Zone 8: Transplant seedlings in July or August
  • Zone 9: Transplant seedlings in August through September
  • Zone 10: Transplant seedlings in August through September
  • Zone 11: Transplant seedlings in September through November

Late Winter/ Early Spring: Another Ideal Planting Time

Winter Florida Tomatoes
Winter vegetables for Florida

Most gardeners think of January and February as “late winter,” but for Florida gardeners, these are the first months for spring planting.

Late winter offers another excellent window for planting tomatoes in Florida. During this period, temperatures are gradually warming up, but they are still cool enough to prevent the rapid spread of pests and diseases.

The risk of frost is minimal, especially in southern parts of the state, allowing tomato plants to thrive as they move into spring.

Florida gardeners should prepare to cover their tomato plants from late December through the end of February. A simple frost cloth or old sheet is usually sufficient.

Honestly, this is the main reason I prefer shorter-statured determinate tomatoes to more ambitious indeterminate types. They’re just easier to cover during the occasional cold snap.

Late winter and spring are also the dry season in Florida, so you may need to water manually instead of depending on rain.

When to Start Spring Tomato Plants from Seed Indoors

  • Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in early January.
  • Zone 9: Start seeds indoors in late December through early January.
  • Zone 10: Start seeds indoors in late December through early January.
  • Zone 11: Start seeds indoors in December

When to Plant Spring Tomatoes Out into the Garden

Check temperatures before planting out and be sure to provide a cover when nights fall below 40°F.

  • Zone 8: Transplant seedlings in mid-February through early April.
  • Zone 9: Transplant seedlings in late January through February
  • Zone 10: Transplant seedlings in late January through February
  • Zone 11: Transplant seedlings in January through February

Best Varieties of Tomatoes to Grow in Florida

Floradade Tomatoes
Floradade Tomatoes

Along with not understanding our very weird planting schedule, a lot of new Florida gardeners are choosing the wrong varieties.

Choosing the right variety of tomatoes is crucial for a successful harvest in Florida. Some of the best varieties include:

  • ‘Sweet 100’: A prolific cherry tomato variety that produces an abundance of sweet, small fruits.
  • ‘Floradade’: A large-fruited variety developed for Florida’s climate, resistant to cracking and splitting.
  • ‘Marglobe’: A small, fast developing fruit that will outrun most pest and disease pressure.
  • ‘Mortgage Lifter’: A beefsteak tomato that tops out at about 5 to 6 feet tall and stands up to heat.
  • ‘Solar Fire’: Bred specifically for hot climates, this variety is heat-tolerant and resistant to common diseases.
  • ‘Heatwave II’: Another heat-tolerant variety, perfect for Florida’s warm temperatures.

Finally, the jewel in the crown — ‘Everglades’ tomatoes.

Everglades tomatoes
Everglades tomatoes

These are a small, currant-type tomato that thrives in Florida’s hot and humid conditions. It’s a distinct species that remains truer to its wild Peruvian roots. So, it’s a lot more resistant to pests and disease, particularly in hot weather.

You can even grow these tomatoes in the summer in Florida — they’re just that hardy.

Start Tomato Seeds Now

Now that it’s July, it’s time to start preparing for your fall Florida garden. Long-season annual vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant like a nice head start before planting out.

IFAS recommends planting them out in August through November (depending on where in the state you live). I’m in Central Florida, on the Gulf Coast, so I tend to procrastinate due to the flexibility of my planting times.

But the time to start tomato seeds for fall planting is right now.

You’ll find seeds for Florida-friendly tomato varieties in my Etsy shop. And don’t worry — I always include enough seeds in each pack for both the fall and late winter planting seasons.

So, remember, you CAN grow tomatoes in Florida. It’s just a matter of “right plant, right place,” and particularly for Florida gardeners… right time.

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Winter Gardening: Grow Lettuce in Florida

Grow Lettuce in Florida

As a gardener in Florida, I’ve learned that our winters provide a unique setting for growing a variety of plants. You really can grow lettuce in Florida, as long as you grow it in winter.

Lettuce loves cool weather and will bolt and go to seed quickly in the heat. Since it starts getting really hot in May, that means the window to grow lettuce in Florida remains between September to April. Even then, there are a few tricks you’ll need to know to be successful.

Understanding Winter Climate in Florida

When we talk about gardening in Florida during the winter, it’s important to first understand the unique climatic conditions of the region. The Gulf States, from Florida to Eastern Texas, sit firmly in Zones 9 through 11. They have mild winters and enjoy lower humidity than the rest of the year.

Despite the milder temperatures, winter also brings shorter daylight hours. Lettuce generally requires around 6 hours of sunlight per day. In winter, the sun is lower in the sky, and the days are shorter, so selecting a planting site with maximum light exposure is crucial.

Winters in Florida are drier and less humid than the summer months, which is beneficial for lettuce, as high humidity can encourage fungal diseases. However, this also means you need to be more vigilant about watering.

Choosing the Best Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Florida

A big part of successfully growing lettuce in Florida is choosing the right varieties. You may have heard that it’s the one time of year you can grow crispheads, but my experience in Zone 10A says, “Don’t bother.”

Lettuces can be broadly categorized into four types: crisphead, butterhead, romaine, and loose leaf. In Florida, crisphead lettuces like iceberg generally don’t perform as well due to their preference for cooler, more consistent temperatures.

Yes, it may get below freezing, and yes, it’s generally cooler in the winter. But you see, when it’s not freezing, the temperature is still likely to jump above 80°F.

Instead, focus on butterhead, romaine, and loose-leaf varieties, which are more adaptable to those surprise heatwaves.

Heading Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Florida

Jericho Romain lettuce in the garden

Some “heading” lettuce varieties to look for:

Jericho Romaine

A robust variety known for its heat tolerance. Jericho produces dense, crisp leaves and is ideal for salads and wraps. This variety, developed in Israel, is very heat-tolerant, and I’ve even been able to keep it growing through to June.

You can find Jericho Romaine lettuce seeds in my shop.

Manoa

Similar to butterhead lettuce, Manoa is a heat-tolerant variety with a soft texture and sweet flavor, perfect for delicate salads. I’ve grown this one for several years but am still mastering the optimum germination temperatures.

Red Cross

This butterhead variety has beautiful, red-tinted leaves and a tender, mild flavor. It adds a pop of color to any salad. I haven’t tried this one yet, but the San Deigo Summer Lettuce program recommends it.

Nevada

Boasting good heat resistance, Nevada has crisp, green leaves that form a loose head. It’s known for its durability in fluctuating temperatures.

Paradai

A romaine type, Paradai is prized for its crunchy texture and resistance to bolting in warmer weather.

Parris Island

A classic romaine with long, dark green leaves, this variety is valued for its crisp texture and exceptional flavor.

Little Gem

A smaller romaine type, Little Gem is ideal for limited space. It has a sweet flavor and a compact, crunchy head.

Anuenue

Another butterhead type, Anuenue is known for its heat tolerance and resistance to bolting, producing soft, tender leaves.

Loose Leaf Lettuces to Grow in Florida

Loose leaf lettuce varieties are truly the easiest when you’re trying to grow lettuce in Florida. Best of all, you can harvest individual leaves as they mature, ensuring several harvests throughout fall and winter.

Mesclun Mix

Mesclun mix is generally a dealer’s choice of tender leaf lettuces and brassicas that provide a distinct and delicious salad blend.

You can find Mesclun Mix lettuce seed mix in my shop.

Black-Seeded Simpson

One of the most popular loose-leaf varieties, it produces light green, curly leaves with a delicate flavor. It’s a fast grower and very resilient. I’ve grown this one for years, and it’s recommended by the IFAS Florida Ag page.

Red Sails

This variety features attractive, ruffled, red-tinted leaves. It’s not only heat tolerant but also rich in nutrients and flavor.

Salad Bowl

 As a cut-and-come-again variety, Salad Bowl produces loose, green, crinkly leaves that are both tender and flavorful. I’ve grown several “salad bowl” varieties in containers with much success, harvesting from October through April on a “cut and come again” basis.

Bronze Oakleaf

Known for its bronze-red leaves that resemble oak leaves, this variety offers a sweet taste and a pleasing texture. Most of the “oak leaf” type leaf lettuces will grow well in Florida winters.

Jamain, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Starting Your Lettuce Seeds

Starting your lettuce seeds in cell blocks or seed trays allows for better control over the growing conditions. Even heat-tolerant lettuce varieties struggle to germinate at temperatures above 80°F, and my struggles with the delicate and sweet Manoa lettuce is a testament to that.

Temperature Control

It’s easier to manage the temperature for seed germination in controlled environments. Lettuce seeds prefer cooler temperatures for germination and can struggle in the heat, making indoor starting ideal.

Longer Harvest

Starting seeds in trays can lead to an earlier and longer harvest seaon by allowing you to begin the growing process indoors while waiting for outdoor conditions to become suitable. That way, you can sow lettuce seeds indoors during the boiling heat of August or the frigid nights of December.

Flexibility

Trays allow you to strategically plan your garden layout and maximize yield by choosing where and when to transplant seedlings. I frequently dot my winter garden beds with Jericho Romaine heads whenever and wherever space becomes available.

Starting Your Lettuce in Cell Trays

Here’s a detailed guide on how to successfully start lettuce seeds in cell blocks or trays:

You’ll need clean cell trays or small soil blocks. Use a light seed-starting mix that won’t offer too much resistance to delicate roots.

  • Make soil blocks or fill cell trays with your well-moistened seed mix.
  • Plant three seeds per block or 4 to 5 if using older seeds.
  • Cover lightly with soil and press down to increase seeds’ contact with soil.
  • Use a mister to keep soil moist or bottom-water as required.
  • Maintain a soil temperature of around 60-70°F.

Seedlings will need plenty of light once they germinate. You can grow them outside in Florida if temperatures are on-point. If it gets above 80°F or below 50°F, consider moving them indoors near a window or into a greenhouse.

If necessary, you can purchase inexpensive grow lights. The new LED technologies for grow lights provide full spectrum at low initial cost, reduced electrical usage, and thankfully – no added heat load to your home.

Germination and Growth

Lettuce seeds typically germinate within 7-10 days. Monitor the moisture level and temperature regularly.

Check the water daily. If seedlings become leggy (tall and thin), they need more light.

Thin back to one seedling per cell. You can try to separate them and plant them individually, but I have found they’re really just too delicate. Best to thin the herd and let the strongest one take over.

Gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions over a week. Start by placing them outside in a shady area for part of the day and then progressively increase their time outdoors.

Preparing the Garden

Florida soil is known for being sandy, which is nice for working but devoid of organic matter and nutrients. I try to layer some compost down on any planting bed twice a year to improve the soil.

Once weeds have been removed, you can transplant the seedlings into your prepared garden bed. Provide about 8” to 10” for each plant in order to provide enough space to grow.

Transplanting

Transplant lettuce seedlings to the garden after the last heat wave of September or anytime throughout winter until April.

Late December through late January has the highest chance of frost, so you may choose to avoid those weeks for planting out.

Ongoing Care to Grow Lettuce in Florida

Because Florida EATS compost, you may want to side-dress your lettuce with compost or composted manure. A dose of fish emulsion usually provides a boost in the middle of the growing season, as well.

The winter months also offer less rainfall. To add insult to injury, it’s also incredibly windy. That means you’ll need to stay on top of irrigation to keep your lettuce plants thriving.

Lettuce can handle light frosts, but temperatures below freezing (32°F or 0°C) for long periods can damage the plants.

In Florida, freezes are rare, but it’s good to be prepared. Use row covers or even old sheets or beach towels to cover them during a freeze warning.

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Growing Lettuce in Florida in Containers

Mesclun Mix Lettuce in the Garden

That sounds like a lot of work to me, and for the most part, I only grow a little heading lettuce here and there in the garden. I may stick some Jericho seedlings in between other plants. Once my fall determinate tomatoes crop, I sometimes plant some lettuce under them.

For a regular supply of homegrown lettuce, though, I use containers instead.

I’ve found that shallow planters (pick them up cheap at the dollar store) with some drainage holes added, make excellent garden planters for cut and come again leaf lettuce.

This offers several advantages:

Temperature Control

I can start seeds in August and keep them indoors or in the shade, moving the containers easily to where they’re needed.

Likewise, as the temperatures cool, I can move the planters into a sunnier spot in the garden.

Succession Timing

After several years of planting this way, I know how many containers to plant per week for my family. I plant five large trays (or seven smaller ones) per week for four weeks.

As the first ones mature, I sow more in succession. This means that I have a regular supply of fresh, young, tender lettuce at any given time.

I don’t have to deal with lettuce growing, maturing, and becoming bitter because we can’t eat it fast enough.  

Not that the chickens aren’t willing to get rid of it for me.

Cheaper, Easier, and Less Work

Since I’m growing in containers, I only have to ensure moisture and fertility for a limited amount of soil. Lettuce is a shallow-rooted planted. It’s a hungry plant, because it doesn’t have deep roots. It needs all it’s moisture and nutrition close to the surface.

It’s a heck of a lot cheaper to feed and water a bunch of shallow containers than vast swathes of garden soil. Besides, growing my quick-maturing lettuce in containers means more room in the garden for broccoli and cabbages.  

Growing Lettuce in Containers

Find shallow garden planters or other containers to use. You can use transparent bins (like on Roots and Refuge Farm) or cheap garden planters from the dollar store.

Last year, I found a clearance sale on some cubby bins from Dollar General and drilled some holes in the bottom.

Planting

Fill the container with 4” to 6” of good, rich potting soil.

Add some slow-release organic fertilizer to save time and trouble. Most are good for three to four months of growing.

Lightly scatter your loose-leaf lettuce seeds on top and then sprinkle the top with a light layer of more soil.

Press down with your hands to increase seed contact with the soil.

Mist well and place in a temperate spot to germinate.

Harvesting

As plants germinate and mature, harvest individual leaves for eating by pinching them near the ground.

Allow smaller leaves to grow and harvest later.

Planting and harvesting in succession will result in a season-long harvest of fresh salad greens.

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Grow Lettuce in Florida This Winter

Winter isn’t just the best time to grow lettuce in Florida, it may actually be the ONLY time you can grow it with any success in our hot, humid climate.

Whether you grow in the ground or in containers, adding fresh, homegrown salads to your winter menu is sure to elevate your cooking and improve nutrition for you and your family.

Besides, they taste amazing.

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Perpetual Spinach Chard: Heat-Tolerant Greens for Subtropical Gardens

perpetual spinach chard

Perpetual spinach chard is a rare leafy vegetable that thrives in subtropical climates. With its rich heritage and impressive adaptability, this hardy plant is a must-have for gardeners residing in warmer zones 9 through 11.

Perpetual spinach chard, scientifically known as Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. cicla ‘Perpetual Spinach’, belongs to the beet family. It is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where it was cultivated for centuries. This versatile vegetable has a long history of culinary use, with its origins dating back to ancient Greek and Roman times.

Perpetual Spinach Chard Plant Details

Perpetual spinach chard features large, tender leaves that are glossy and dark green, similar to true spinach but with a slightly thicker texture. The leaves grow on sturdy, succulent stalks.

The plant has a biennial growth habit, although it is often cultivated as an annual in cooler climates. It typically reaches maturity within 55 to 60 days from sowing. When fully grown, this leafy vegetable forms a compact rosette of lush foliage, reaching a height of about 12 to 18 inches and spreading approximately 12 inches in width. Its compact size makes it an excellent choice for container gardening as well.

Where and When to Grow Perpetual Spinach

For gardeners residing in the U.S. perpetual spinach chard thrives in subtropical regions with warmer climates. Specifically, it performs exceptionally well in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11. The milder winters and longer growing seasons found in these areas create the perfect conditions for this robust leafy green.

perpetual spinach in the garden

Optimal Growing Conditions for Perpetual Spinach Chard

For the best results and the most abundant harvest, keep the following factors in mind.

Temperature

Perpetual spinach chard thrives in moderate temperatures, preferring a range between 60°F and 80°F. However, it is very heat tolerant and will tolerate cold snaps down to 32°F. Growth will slow during extreme heat and cold.

Humidity

The plant prefers moderate humidity levels. While it can tolerate higher humidity, it is important to provide good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.

Sunlight

Perpetual spinach chard requires full sun to partial shade, with a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hotter regions, providing some afternoon shade can help prevent wilting or scorching of the leaves. It’s suitable for shady patches of the garden in subtropical zones.

Soil Type

It thrives in well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting will help provide the necessary nutrients and improve soil structure.

Buy seeds

Planting Times

Since perpetual chard acts as a perennial edible plant in subtropical zones, you can plant it nearly any time of year. However, avoid planting out during the hottest or coldest times.

For spring planting, start indoors up to 8 weeks before the last frost date and plant out once that date has passed.

In the summer or fall, start seeds indoors, and plant out once the plant has fully developed (about 8 weeks). For best cold resilience, sow and establish at least one month before the first frost date.

Starting Perpetual Spinach Chard Seeds

We recommend starting perpetual chard seeds in cell trays or soil blocks. This allows you to plant out a healthy, well-developed young plant that is more resistant to pests and disease.

  • Fill cell trays or soil blocks with a high-quality seed-starting mix, moistening it slightly before planting.
  • Sow the seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep.
  • Place the trays or blocks in a warm location with temperatures around 70°F to 75°F.
  • Maintain consistent moisture by misting the soil surface or using a bottom-watering technique.
  • Germination typically occurs within 7 to 14 days.

Once the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, you can transplant them into the garden. However, we recommend planting out once the plant is 6” and has developed several sets of true leaves. This ensures it will better survive transplant shock or environmental pressures.

Transplanting Perpetual Spinach Chard

Once you have healthy young seedlings, you’ll want to transplant them into your garden or into a larger container.

Into Garden Beds:

  1. Choose a well-prepared garden bed with loose, amended soil.
  2. Dig holes that are slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling.
  3. Gently remove the seedlings from the module cell or soil block tray, taking care not to damage the roots.
  4. Place the seedlings into the holes and backfill with soil, firming it gently around the base of the plants.
  5. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart to allow sufficient room for growth.
  6. Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly to help them establish.

Into Containers:

Select containers that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep to accommodate the root system.

  1. Fill the containers with a well-draining potting mix, leaving about an inch of space below the rim.
  2. Gently remove the seedlings from the cell trays or soil block trays, being careful not to disturb the roots.
  3. Place the seedlings in the center of each container and fill in the remaining space with potting mix.
  4. Water the containers thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom.

Temp Tolerance for Perpetual Spinach

Perpetual chard may require some extra care when the weather is extreme.

Protect from Excessive Heat

High temperatures above 95°F can cause the leaves to wilt, scorch, and lose flavor. Providing shade or mulching can help protect the plants during extreme heat.

Protection from Cold

To protect perpetual chard from a deep cold snap, apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants to insulate the roots and conserve moisture. Cover the plants with row covers or frost blankets during freezing temperatures.

Watering Schedule

During the winter and spring, water the plants deeply once or twice a week, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.

During the summer and fall, water as needed to provide moisture if it doesn’t rain adequately.

Fertilizer Composition and Schedule

Prior to planting, incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil for nutrient enrichment.

During the growing season, apply a balanced organic fertilizer or a slow-release granular fertilizer according to the package instructions every 4 to 6 weeks.

Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, as it can promote leafy growth at the expense of root development. Opt for a balanced fertilizer instead.

Common Pests

Perpetual spinach chard may be subject to a few pests.

Aphids: Use a strong blast of water or insecticidal soap to control aphid infestations.

Slugs and Snails: We recommend Sluggo baits, which are very effective, very affordable, and certified OMRI for organic use.

Leaf Miners: Remove infested leaves and destroy them to reduce leaf miner populations.

Caterpillars: Handpick caterpillars or use organic insecticides labeled for vegetable use. We recommend products containing a naturally occurring bacteria called Bacillus thuringiensis (or bt for short), such as Thuricide.

Similar products that contain Spinosad are also organic and are affective against a wider range of pest insects, including aphids. Monterey’s Spinosad is an excellent choice.

Common Diseases

Downy Mildew: Ensure good air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply appropriate fungicides if necessary.

Leaf Spot: Remove affected leaves and practice good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease.

For significant infections, we recommend applying an organic copper spray after removing the affected foliage.

Powdery Mildew: Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply fungicides labeled for powdery mildew control. Apply a mixture of 8 Tbs of household hydrogen peroxide (3%) mixed with one gallon of water with a sprayer every three days for a week or two for an inexpensive organic fungicide against powdery mildew.

Regularly monitor your plants for any signs of pests or diseases and take prompt action to prevent damage or spread.

Special Needs and Care for Perpetual Spinach Chard

Thinning: When sowing directly, think seedlings when they reach a height of about 2 to 3 inches to ensure proper spacing between plants. Remove the weaker seedlings, leaving the healthiest and strongest ones to grow. These plants grow best when spaced at around 12”.

Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to help conserve moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature.

Companion Plants for Perpetual Spinach

Perpetual spinach chard can benefit from companion planting, which involves growing compatible plants in close proximity to enhance growth, deter pests, and promote overall garden health. Here are some suitable companion plants for perpetual chard:

Herbs

Plant aromatic herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro near perpetual spinach chard to repel pests and attract beneficial insects.

Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums serve as sacrificial plants, attracting pests like aphids away from perpetual chard.

Harvesting Perpetual Spinach

Regularly harvest outer leaves when they reach a size of about 6 to 8 inches long. This will encourage continuous growth and prevent the plants from bolting.

If the plants start to bolt (produce flower stalks), it is best to remove them to maintain quality. Alternatively, you can allow them to flower for your bee population and to collect seeds once matured.

Perpetual chard can be harvested as soon as the outer leaves reach a desirable size. Here’s how to harvest:

  • Select the outer leaves, starting with the largest ones, leaving the smaller inner leaves to continue growing.
  • Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the leaves off at the base, or you can gently twist and pull them from the stem.
  • Harvest regularly to encourage new leaf growth and a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.

Cooking with Perpetual Spinach

Perpetual spinach chard is a versatile leafy green that can be enjoyed in various culinary creations. Here are some cooking and meal ideas:

Fresh Salads

Use young and tender leaves as a nutritious base for salads. Mix with other greens, add your favorite toppings, and dress with a light vinaigrette.

Sautéed or Stir-Fried

Heat olive oil or butter in a pan, add chopped leaves, and sauté with garlic, onions, or other vegetables for a flavorful side dish. Stir-frying with soy sauce and sesame oil also creates a delicious Asian-inspired dish.

Quiches and Frittatas

Add cooked and chopped leaves to quiches, frittatas, or egg muffins for a nutrient-packed and flavorful meal.

Soups and Stews

Incorporate into soups, stews, or hearty winter dishes for added nutrition and a vibrant green color.

Wraps and Sandwiches

Use large perpetual spinach chard leaves as a substitute for tortillas or bread in wraps and sandwiches for a healthy and low-carb option.

Experiment with different recipes and cooking techniques to make the most of the versatile chard in your culinary endeavors. Enjoy the fresh and vibrant flavors it brings to your meals!

Your Subtropical Garden Needs Perpetual Spinach Chard

Perpetual chard is a versatile and visually appealing addition to subtropical gardens in the United States. Its origins in the Mediterranean region and its ability to flourish in warmer climates make it an ideal choice for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11.

Whether used as an ornamental plant or harvested as a nutritious leafy green, perpetual spinach chard offers gardeners a delightful and productive gardening experience.

You can purchase seeds for perpetual spinach chard from our website.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing and Using Perpetual Spinach

Why is it called perpetual spinach?

Perpetual spinach got its name because it produces a continuous harvest of spinach-like leaves throughout the growing season.

What are some perpetual spinach chard benefits?

Perpetual chard is packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supports immune health, promotes digestion, and provides essential nutrients.

What is the difference between spinach and perpetual spinach?

It has thicker leaves and sturdier stalks compared to true spinach. It is much more heat tolerant and tends to have a longer growing season.

Does perpetual spinach taste like spinach?

Yes, it has a mild, slightly sweet taste similar to true spinach but with a heartier texture.

Can you eat perpetual spinach stalks?

Yes, the succulent stalks are edible and can be enjoyed in various culinary preparations.

Is perpetual spinach the same as chard?

Yes, perpetual spinach is a type of chard, specifically a variety that resembles and tastes like true spinach.

What is another name for perpetual spinach?

Another name for perpetual spinach is “leaf beet.”

What grows well with perpetual spinach?

It grows well with herbs like basil and dill, brassicas like broccoli, and beans.

How do you cook perpetual spinach?

You can cook it by sautéing, stir-frying, adding to soups or stews, or using it raw in salads and wraps.

How long will perpetual spinach last?

With regular harvesting and proper care, you’ll get a continuous harvest for several months. In subtropical regions with mild winters, it will easily last for a year or more.

What is perpetual spinach good for?

It’s good for adding nutrition to meals, supporting overall health, and providing a versatile leafy green option in climates that are too hot to grow traditional salad greens.

How do you maintain perpetual spinach?

Maintain the plant by ensuring consistent moisture, proper spacing, regular harvesting, and protecting from extreme temperatures.

Where do you cut perpetual spinach?

When harvesting, cut the outer leaves close to the base of the plant, leaving the inner leaves to continue growing.

What does perpetual spinach taste like?

It has a mild, slightly sweet taste with a hint of nuttiness.

Is perpetual spinach the same as New Zealand spinach?

No, perpetual spinach and New Zealand spinach are different plants, although they are both leafy greens commonly used as spinach alternatives.

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Great Last-Minute Gardening Gifts for Dad

Not all gardening gifts for dad have to be power tools!

There’s something about dads who work outside even after they’ve worked at a job all day. My dad was like that. With Father’s Day coming up, gardening gifts for Dad or Grandpa seem like an easy choice for guys like that.

They work all day in some stuffy office and spend hours commuting in their cars, but the minute they get home, that’s when the real work begins. They go into a trance, putting the crazy world behind them and focusing on one plant, one plot of dirt, one crop at a time.

Are you looking for some great last-minute gardening gifts for Dad? Or maybe you’re looking for gardening gifts for Grandpa because he was the one that shared his love of backyard growing with you when you were growing up.

Find gardening gifts for dad or gardening gifts for grandpa

I’ve got some great recommendations to make. I’ve spent a lot of time (and too much money) trying to make my gardening life more efficient, and even less painful. And some of these deserve a slot on any grower’s wishlist.

Here are some of my favorite gardening gifts for dads and grandpas, or any gardener on your list. You may even want to treat yourself!

1. Tuzoc Metal Garden Hose, 100FT

A garden hose may seem like a lame gift, but if Dad is getting up in years, I can tell you that garden hoses get heavier as you age. He may have been wanting one of these stainless steel garden hoses for ages, but they’re a little on the pricey side for someone on a fixed income.

It doesn’t take much to wrench a shoulder or pull a back muscle when you’re constantly watering in the summer heat. He’s going to LOVE this garden hose. It’s tough and durable while still being light enough to water everything without much exertion at all.

I recently picked one of these up, and I recommend it highly.

Buy on Amazon.

2. Black Iron Hori Hori Garden Knife

A hori hori knife is an indispensable tool for any gardening enthusiast. This Japanese-inspired wonder is a combination of a knife and a trowel, making it the ultimate gardening companion for any Garden Ninja.

Its sharp, serrated edge effortlessly cuts through soil, weeds, and tough roots, while the flat side can be used for digging, transplanting, and scooping. The sturdy blade is perfect for precision cutting and dividing plants, and the pointed tip aids in creating seed furrows or removing stones.

With measurement markings along the blade, the hori hori knife ensures accurate planting depths.

From planting to weeding and everything in between, the hori hori knife is a true multitasker and is my No. 1 go-to gardening tool.

Buy it on Amazon.

3. Rechargeable Battery Powered Garden Sprayer

You don’t have to be professional or spend professional kind of money to get a powered garden sprayer. Dad deserves a break from tedious priming and hand-pumping while tending the garden.

This rechargeable battery-powered garden sprayer makes plant care a breeze, and who doesn’t need a little extra help battling squash bugs and powdery mildew in the summer heat and humidity?

With a convenient and portable design, this innovative tool eliminates the need for manual pumping or carrying heavy containers. The battery-powered mechanism provides consistent and even spraying, ensuring uniform coverage. Best of all, it’s rechargeable.

I purchased a rechargeable powered sprayer in 2021 and it’s been a game changer.

You can buy it on Amazon.

4. Genuine Ladbrooke 6-Pc. “Master Grower” Soil Blocker Set 

On the other hand, if Dad is serious about self-sufficient vegetable gardening, he’s going to fall in love with the Ladbrooke soil-blocking system. No more fragile cell packs, no more weird, desiccated pellets in netting that never decomposes.

The right gardening gifts for dad make it easier for him to share his love of nature with his children

While you’ll find a number of knock-off soil blockers on the market, don’t be fooled by cheap imitations. Ladbrookes is the genuine article, made in England, where gardening truly is an elevated art form.

And if the big kit is too spendy, they do have smaller sets to fit your budget. I recommend starting out with the Mini 4, which makes 1-3/8″ dirt brownies in which tomatoes and peppers just thrive.

You can buy both on Amazon and avoid the international shipping fees.

5. AcuRite Iris (5-in-1) Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Weather Station

Because there’s nothing worse than spraying fungicides or fertilizer only to see all your hard work and money get washed away in the rain. Your favorite Garden Guru will love this weather station so he can stay on top of climatic conditions in the garden.

For gardening dads with a greenhouse or grow house, check out this Acurite package with three sensors for monitoring the temperature and humidity from the comfort of your home.

Acurite has been around for 80 years, and its reputation is stellar. I’ve been using a three-sensor black-and-white system from them for the last four years to keep tabs on the greenhouse, chicken coop, and bunny run. Well, at least that was until the bunnies buried their sensor while digging a new burrow.

So, we’re down to two sensors, but they’re both critical for monitoring conditions during those rare overnight freezes and in the heat of the day when plants (and chickens) can get dangerously stressed.

A wireless indoor/outdoor weather station is an essential tool for gardening dads. He’ll have access to accurate and up-to-date weather information, so he can make informed decisions about his gardening activities.

This information helps to determine the ideal planting times, adjust irrigation schedules, and take necessary precautions during extreme weather.

Buy AcuRite weather monitors from Amazon.

6. VIVOSUN Portable Garden Kneeler Seat

Garden Kneelers aren’t just for seniors. My son got me one of these about five years ago, and it’s still incredibly handy. Even if you don’t need a pad for kneeling or a handy seat, it’s an awesome portable caddy for your tools. I use mine as a small table to hold my coffee cup, phone, and Bluetooth speaker while I putter in the backyard and listen to the No-Till Growers Podcast while I work.

A portable garden kneeler/seat is a game-changer for dads and grandpas who appreciate a more leisurely garden experience. Kneel in comfort or just sit and relax while you enjoy the peaceful satisfaction of all your hard work.

The best gardening gifts for dads make it easier for him to enjoy his garden without pain.

The soft cushioning of the kneeler relieving the strain on your knees while the sturdy frame ensures enough stability and support to kneeling and rising so much easier. This kneeler/seat features handy storage pockets that detach and function as a tool belt.

You can buy it on Amazon and have it delivered wherever your dad gardens.

7. Gardenfather Tee Shirt

It’s hard to find gardening gifts for Dad when it seems he already has every tool, gadget, or going thing for his outdoor passion.

If Dad also has a sense of humor, maybe a Father’s Day gift on the lighter side is in order.

Dad Jokes deserve full retaliation, and what better way to show Pops that you inherited his lame sense of humor than a gag gardening gift?

It's hard to find gardening gifts for dad when it seem he has everything.

Although, it doesn’t have to be completely useless. There are plenty of funny gardening gifts for Dad that he’ll appreciate just as much for their practical use as the laugh factor.

Tee shirts are great gardening gifts for Bad because he’ll always have something comfortable he can wear while he’s working outside.

Hats are even more useful for keeping the sun off his face and out of his eyes.

Find more funny gardening gear for Dad on Amazon.

8. LANNIU Garden Tool Set

Now, if you can’t find the right gardening gifts for Dad because he’s a total noob and has nothing, then this handy set has everything and somewhere to put it, too.

There have been a lot of newbie gardeners in the last few years. Between the boredom of pandemic lockdowns to rising food prices to just the desire for a healthier lifestyle.

If he’s never gardened before, he may not have any tools at all.

This handy set has a full array of great starter tools for the newly-hatched gardener. It also works as a seat when you need a break or need to juggle seed packets.

Find great gardening tool sets for Father’s Day on Amazon.

9. Garden Grafting Tool Kit

Serious gardening dads deserve serious gardening gifts for dads. Help Pops take his self-sufficiency to the next level with this well-appointed tree grafting kit.

This choice is easy on the wallet but offers hours of gardening fun. Dad will be creating his own Frankentrees in no time!

For gardeners with small spaces or poor decision-making skills (like me), adding fruit trees can prove overwhelming. Which fruits to grow? Which varieties?

Why not try them all?

Learning how to graft fruit trees opens up a whole new world for avid gardeners and homesteaders. You can combine the desirable traits of different fruit tree varieties into a single tree.

By mastering this skill, he’ll gain the ability to create custom fruit trees with improved disease resistance, superior fruit quality, and increased productivity.

Find grafting kits for Pops on Amazon.

10. Greenhouse

I’ve talked about my love of greenhouse growing before. Sure, it’s Florida and there’s not much need for supplemental heat – but there IS plenty of need for extra shade and protection from driving rainstorms.

I’m adding this gift idea here because it’s on sale right now. It’s a pop-up, so even grandpas can set this one up by themselves. It’s just the right size for protecting seed trays from both cold weather and excessive sun.

Some of the larger greenhouses for the consumer market even offer watering kits, which is super nice when it’s too hot to stand outside with a hose.

Find greenhouses for every budget on Amazon.

11. The Day Off

Maybe the best gardening gifts for Dad are a few hours to relax — or at least a chance to snooze in the shade outside.

Everyone loves a hammock, but not everyone has two trees spaced exactly the perfect distance apart.

A freestanding hammock with a frame can go anywhere Dad wants it — full sun, deep shade, or even behind the shed where no one can find him all day.

When it comes down to it, your dad will probably love anything you get for him. Even if he already has six of them in the garage. (Even if you’re the one that got those other six.) He’ll really just be happy that you understand his need to weed.

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Grow Sweet Potatoes in Florida

Grow sweet potatoes in Florida

I have to admit it — I have an embarrassingly gullible sweet tooth. Always have had. So, when I first discovered sweet potatoes as a kid, I was hooked. A vegetable that tastes like dessert — it doesn’t get any better than that. I still have a sweet tooth, and when I discovered I could grow sweet potatoes in Florida year-round, I became doubly hooked.

In fact, the ability to grow sweet potatoes, bananas, and pineapples in my backyard is probably the reason I still live in Florida. In the face of increasing heat and some increasingly scary weather. In the face of skyrocketing housing and insurance costs. In the face of the — let’s admit it — pretty awful and kind of unfair reputation we residents of the state have amongst the rest of the world.

But I get sweet potatoes and bananas and pineapples (sometimes) out of my sandy dirt, and that makes it all worth it.

Sweet potatoes are not only delicious but incredibly nutritious. They’re one of the few familiar and beloved staple foods we can grow in abundance in subtropical regions like Florida.

One of the reasons I blog about the plants I grow (and those I just want to grow) is to remind myself of all the details and shortcuts I’ve discovered over the years. It helps me to remember when I share on my blog, and so many (too many!) times I simply forget that I need to plant things a certain way by a certain time.

So, I’m going to cover what I know about sweet potatoes here. Although you can grow sweet potatoes in Florida at any time of year, the summer months are really the last chance you’ll have to plant them in time for those sweet-potato-eating holidays we all know and love around the end of the calendar year.

So, let’s get started…

Sweet Potatoes Have a Backstory

Growing sweet potatoes in Florida

Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are native to Central and South America. They’re most closely related to morning glories, not white potatoes.

Morning glories and moonflowers (both Ipomea species) are native to Florida, so our state is a prime candidate for sweet potato production.

I remember reading that, many years ago, Florida farmers grew Irish (white) potatoes from January to April, then sweet potatoes from May to November. It was one of the state’s most profitable crops.

(Why or how we bothered to go into the orange juice business is a mystery to me.)

Sweet potatoes have a sprawling growth habit that covers lots of ground and produces cute little pinkish-purple flowers that resemble those of their cousins, the morning glory. Most importantly, they produce delicious edible tubers.

History and Spread of Sweet Potatoes:

Sweet potatoes have a rich history dating at least 5,000 years. They were first domesticated in Central or South America, and eventually even ended up in Polynesia (archeologists are still trying to figure out how, although “boat” is the KISS answer to that one.)

When you have something as awesome as sweet potatoes, word gets around. Soon, anywhere on the planet with a long enough warm season to grow them was producing their own crops.

Over time, sweet potatoes became a valuable crop, adapting to different growing conditions and evolving into numerous cultivated varieties.

Sweet Potato Varieties for Florida

There are several popular cultivars of sweet potatoes grown for food in the United States. Here are some noteworthy varieties:

Beauregard

Beauregard sweet potatoes have a vining growth habit, producing long and sprawling vines that can spread across the garden. They require ample space to grow and are often trained along trellises or allowed to spread on the ground.

They’re relatively easy to grow, making them a popular choice among home gardeners and farmers. They also have good resistance to pests and diseases, and their vigorous vines provide good ground cover, suppressing weed growth and protecting the soil from excess sun and heat.

Beauregard sweet potatoes were developed at Louisiana State University and released in 1987. Since then, they’ve become one of the most widely grown sweet potato cultivars.

Beauregard sweet potatoes have a reddish-brown skin and a bright orange flesh. The skin is relatively smooth and easy to peel, while the flesh is firm and moist.

Beauregard sweet potatoes are smooth and creamy when cooked. Not too dry and not too moist, they’re pretty versatile in the kitchen.

They have a sweet and nutty flavor with hints of honey and caramel. They are known for their pleasing taste, and their flavor intensifies when cooked. They’re sweet, but not TOO sweet, with a well-rounded flavor.

Centennial

Centennial sweet potatoes have a vining growth habit similar to Beauregard. They produce long, sprawling vines that require ample space to grow and spread. You can trellis them or allow them to spread on the ground.

They’re relatively easy to grow and are well-suited to the Florida climate. They have good resistance to pests and diseases and can thrive with proper care.

Centennial sweet potatoes were also developed at Louisiana State University and released in 1967. They have a light coppery skin color with a pale orange flesh. The skin is smooth and thin, making it easy to handle.

Centennial sweet potatoes are creamy and moister than Beauregards. They has a smooth, velvety texture when cooked and they’re not overly fibrous.

They have a mildly sweet flavor with a subtle nuttiness. They are not overly sugary and have a pleasant balance between sweetness and earthiness.

Vardaman

Vardaman sweet potatoes are a bush variety, meaning they have compact growth and shorter vines. They don’t require as much space as vining varieties. If you’re growing in a small garden or in containers, they’re your best choice.

They’re generally easy to grow and suitable for the Florida climate. They have good resistance to pests and diseases, making them a reliable choice for gardeners.

Vardaman sweet potatoes were developed at the Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station and were released in 1982.

These tubers have a reddish-brown skin color with a light yellow flesh that darkens once removed from the soil. The skin is slightly rough and may have shallow indentations.

Vardaman sweet potatoes are moderately firm and moist. They have a smooth texture when cooked but may have a slightly drier consistency compared to some other sweet potato cultivars.

Vardaman sweet potatoes have a rich, sweet flavor with hints of honey and caramel. They are known for their intense sweetness, making them a favorite among those who prefer sweeter varieties. The flavor is often described as luscious and candy-like, perfect for indulgent holiday meals.

All three cultivars thrive in Florida’s climate, and all three offer different flavors and textures. All three are listed on the UF/IFAS University of Florida Gardening Solutions website as the best sweet potato varieties for Florida gardeners.

Some other varieties to experiment with include:

Georgia Jet

Reddish-orange skin and sweet, moist flesh. It matures relatively quickly and is well-suited for shorter growing seasons. Good disease resistance and adaptability.

Murasaki

Striking purple skin and creamy white flesh, they offer a slightly drier texture and a unique, nutty flavor. This variety originates from Japan and has gained popularity for its vibrant color and distinctive taste.

Bonita

Tan skin and light-colored flesh, they have a smooth texture and mild nutty flavor. This newer variety is gaining attention for its versatility in both savory and sweet dishes.

Growing Sweet Potato Slips

Sweet potato slips are the young shoots that are grown from a mature sweet potato. These slips can be transplanted into the garden or containers to grow into full-sized sweet potato plants.

Many gardening gurus and ag experts will tell you to purchase certified, disease-free sweet potato slips to plant in your garden. That’s always a safe bet, but the last couple of years have shown us that you can’t always get what you want – sometimes, you can’t even order it online.

If you can’t find them for sale (or choose not to buy them), it’s really easy to grow your own sweet potato slips. The only real disadvantage is that it takes quite a long time. It has often taken me up to two months to get slips, which means that if you haven’t started early enough and decide to buy the, it’s likely there won’t be any for sale left anyway.

Growing Your Own Slips

If you want to try growing your own slips, here are two methods used:

Water glass method for growing sweet potato slips

The water glass method involves suspending the sweet potato in water to encourage the growth of slips. Here’s how you can do it:

  • Select a healthy, medium-sized sweet potato. Ensure that it is free from blemishes or rot.
  • Place the sweet potato horizontally in a glass jar or container, partially submerged in water. Use toothpicks or skewers inserted into the sides of the sweet potato to hold it in place, ensuring that the bottom end is submerged.
  • Place the jar or container in a warm location that receives ample sunlight. A windowsill or a sunny spot indoors is ideal.
  • Change the water every few days to prevent stagnation and maintain cleanliness.
  • After a couple of weeks, small sprouts known as slips will begin to emerge from the sweet potato. Allow them to grow to a height of 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm).
  • Carefully remove the slips from the sweet potato, gently twisting them to detach them from the parent tuber.
  • Place the slips in a small cup of water for a few days to encourage root growth.

Once the roots have developed, the slips are ready for transplanting into well-prepared soil in the garden or containers.

Potting Soil Method for growing sweet potato slips

The potting soil method involves directly planting the sweet potato in a container with potting soil to encourage slip growth. Here’s how you can do it:

  • Fill a shallow container or pot with well-draining potting soil about halfway.
  • Lay your sweet potatoes on their sides and cover it the rest of the way with potting mix.
  • Place the container in a warm location that receives ample sunlight, such as a sunny windowsill or a greenhouse.
  • Keep the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
  • After a few weeks, slips will start emerging from the sweet potato and grow above the soil surface.
  • Allow the slips to reach a length of 10 to 12 inches before gently detaching them from the sweet potato.
  • Carefully remove the slips from the soil, ensuring that you don’t damage their delicate roots.
  • Transplant the slips into individual pots or directly into well-prepared garden soil.

Both of these methods work. I prefer the potting soil method because I believe you get better root growth in soil than when propagating in water.

However, you should choose whichever method that suits you and your available resources best.

Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Florida Garden

Sweet potatoes are a long-season plant and take some months to mature. Depending on the variety, they can take from 90 to 120 days to form adequate tubers.

Sweet potatoes need a warm climate with temperatures between 75-95°F. They require well-draining soil, full sun, and moderate humidity.

Zone 8: In Zone 8 of Florida, plant sweet potatoes from mid-April to late May.

Zone 9: In Zone 9, the recommended planting time is from early March to mid-May.

Zone 10: Gardeners in Zone 10 can plant sweet potatoes from late February to early June.

These planting schedules reflect timing that lets you harvest mature tubers before any chance of freeze in December. However, note that in many parts of Central Florida and all parts of South Florida, you can plant sweet potatoes at any time of year. You may just not be able to harvest them before a freeze.

In Zones 9 and 10, sweet potatoes are frequently perennial and will simply bounce back from any freeze, even if the foliage dies off.

Even during the three nights of freeze and one night of near-freeze last December 2022, none of my sweet potatoes died back at all.

Plot Preparation for Sweet Potatoes:

Sweet potatoes prefer plenty of space to grow. Clear the area of any weeds or vegetation.

You may need to loosen the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches, if it’s badly compacted. You can take the opportunity to add compost and any other soil amendments.

If you are planning well ahead, you can also prepare your plot with the Back to Eden method or use the No-Dig prep method by covering your future potato patch with cardboard and a thick layer of compost or mulch.

Water the area down well and regularly, and you should be able to plant into it in about 4 to 5 months.

Best Growing Conditions for Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes aren’t picky, but you’ll want to give them good growing conditions for optimum yield.

Soil

Sweet potatoes thrive in loose, sandy soil rich in organic matter. Aim for a pH range of 5.8-6.2 for optimal nutrient availability.

Light

Provide full sun exposure to ensure vigorous growth and maximum tuber development.

Temperatures

Sweet potatoes prefer warm temperatures between 75-95°F (24-35°C). They are sensitive to frost, so wait until your last frost date to get them started in the ground. Mature plants are more hardy than newly planted slips.

Water

Sweet potato slips should be well watered when first planted in the ground. If you’re planting before the beginning of the rainy season in June (and most people do), you may need to water every day until they are well established and beginning to vine over the beds.

Afterward, provide consistent moisture. You may need to water two or three times a week if it doesn’t rain.

Planting Sweet Potato Slips:

Dig a small hole for your sweet potato slips 12-18 inches apart. You can plant in grids or in rows, as best fits your garden space.

If you haven’t amended the soil, you may want to dig in a little Espoma BioTone to help your plants get established and strong.

Bury the slips halfway into the soil, leaving the top half exposed.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.

Caring for Sweet Potato Plants

Care after planting out is pretty straightforward.

Mulching

Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, will help to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain an even soil temperature.

Fertilization

Sweet potatoes benefit from regular feeding. Use a balanced fertilizer or organic amendments rich in phosphorus and potassium.

Pruning

Prune back any excess vines or suckers to focus energy on tuber development. They will try to crawl away and root down the length of the vine, which reduces the yield of tubers.

I recall one very experienced Florida gardener of my acquaintance said never to let them root more than three nodes from the planting spot.

Well, I think that’s what she said.

Besides, you can also prune them back and eat the greens if you like. (I compost them or feed them to my bunnies, which is really the same thing when I think about it.)

Pest and Disease Control

Monitor for pests like sweet potato weevils and aphids. Sweet potato flea beetles can eat up the leaves. Employ organic pest control methods when necessary. Cypress and eucalyptus mulch can deter weevils. And nasturtiums make a good trap crop for aphids.

Tips for Increasing Yields on Sweet Potatoes

  • Provide adequate spacing between plants for good airflow and tuber expansion.
  • Prune back excess vine growth.
  • Improve soil with organic matter and appropriate fertilizers.
  • Ensure consistent moisture throughout the growing season.

Harvesting Sweet Potatoes

You can begin to harvest your sweet potatoes when the vines start to yellow and die back, typically around 90-120 days after planting.

Gently loosen the soil around the base of the plant and carefully lift the tubers using a garden fork or spade.

Handle sweet potatoes with care to avoid bruising or cutting the tubers.

Do not wash your sweet potatoes. You’ll want to cure them first, and then wash them when you’re ready to eat them. You can vigorously brush off any dirt if you like, but be careful of cutting or scraping away the skin.

Curing Sweet Potatoes:

Curing sweet potatoes after harvest improves their flavor, texture, and storage life. What you want is for them to cure in a warm, humid area for about a week or even two.

You can cure sweet potatoes outdoors by laying them in a single layer on the ground, preferably on a dry, warm surface, for 4-7 days. However, you’ll want to gather them up or cover them up if it rains.

You can also place sweet potatoes in a warm, well-ventilated space, such as a basement or garage, with a temperature of 85-90°F (29-32°C) and 85-90% humidity for 4-7 days. You can use a small room or closet with a space heater and a humidifier.

I’ve cured mine at lower temperatures for about two weeks at 76°F to 78°F with good results. I packed them loosely in a crate, padded with crumpled paper to keep them from touching.  

And They’re Good For You, To Boot

The nutritional breakdown of sweet potatoes is pretty impressive for something that tastes so good. A 1-cup serving of cooked sweet potatoes contains approximately:

  • Calories: 180
  • Carbohydrates: 41 grams
  • Fiber: 6 grams
  • Protein: 4 grams
  • Fat: 0 grams
  • Vitamin A: 769% of the daily recommended intake (DRI)
  • Vitamin C: 65% of the DRI
  • Potassium: 18% of the DRI
  • Calcium: 4% of the DRI
  • Iron: 6% of the DRI

If you’re serious about growing your own food in Florida and aren’t sure where to start, sweet potatoes offer an answer. Not only are they very well suited to the climate, but they’ll also grow through the summer here when precious little else does.

Whether you’re growing them as a staple source of calories or because you have a sweet tooth like I do, they’re definitely worth trying.