Food prices are climbing fast, with the Tampa Bay area in Florida showing the highest spike in prices in the continental United States over the last year. More of us are growing gardens to to close the nutritional gap between our paychecks and the checkout lane. But if you’ve just started to garden, you may wonder what to plant in May in Florida.
The news isn’t all-good. May is the true test of a Florida gardener’s grit begins. The temperatures are climbing fast, the sun is scorching, and only the toughest plants — and gardeners — will survive to June.
To make things even more interesting, much of Florida is facing a serious drought this year. Watering wisely is going to be just as important as choosing the right crops.
It’s not too late to plant your garden, but you’ll need to focus on heat-hardy, drought-tolerant crops that can handle the summer blast. Plant smart now, and fall will see you adding lots of value to your pantry staples.
Why Planting a Garden in May in Florida is So Hard
Gardening in May comes with a few classic Florida curveballs. The soil heats up and dries out fast, making it harder for seeds to germinate and young plants to get established. Pests like aphids, stink bugs, and caterpillars show up almost overnight, and fungal diseases aren’t far behind once the rains finally start.
It’s a month that rewards quick action, smart plant choices, heavy mulch, and a willingness to water early in the morning before the sun starts boiling everything alive.
Survive May, and you’re officially a Florida gardening veteran.
The real problem with planting May in Florida is that we get the summer heat and blistering sun without the summer rain and it’s lovely cloud cover.
What You CAN Plant in May (even in Florida)
It’s not too late to look for abundance from your home garden – if you plan ahead, develop some patience, and don’t mind getting up early (or staying out late) to water.
Beans, Peas, and More
If you’re serious about growing your own food to cut grocery costs, beans and peas should be at the top of your May planting list. Not only are they some of the easiest crops to grow in Florida’s brutal summer heat, but they’re also packed with protein, fiber, iron, and key nutrients that your pantry—and your budget—will thank you for later.
Over the last year, the cost of protein ingredients — eggs, meat, and fish — saw the highest increase in the Tampa Bay area at 7.8% up from spring 2024.
Shelling peas and dried beans go a long way in delivering protein and fiber during tough financial times.
Southern Peas
Southern peas, including black-eyed peas, cowpeas, and crowder peas, are true Southern staples for a reason. These peas can thrive where other crops fail, fixing nitrogen in the soil and producing reliable harvests even in sandy or dry conditions.
They are an incredible source of affordable, homegrown protein, with one cup of cooked black-eyed peas delivering about 13 grams of protein and 11 grams of fiber. Some great heat-tolerant varieties include ‘Mississippi Silver’ (crowder type), ‘California Blackeye No. 5’ (classic black-eyed pea), and ‘Red Ripper’ (an old heirloom cowpea known for its vigorous growth). Once dried, Southern peas can last up to 2–3 years in airtight storage.
Pigeon Peas
Pigeon peas are another powerhouse plant worth your garden space if you’re growing food for resilience. Originally from Africa and India, pigeon peas are a small shrub that can live for several seasons in frost-free areas of Florida.
They’re drought-resistant and pest-resistant. Even better — they pump nitrogen back into depleted soils, making them a natural fit for Florida’s sandy soil conditions.
The fresh peas are delicious in curries, stews, and rice dishes (think Caribbean “peas and rice”). Dried pigeon peas are a survival food loaded with fiber, potassium, and protein. Plus, once established, pigeon pea plants can produce for up to 3–5 years with minimal care.
While pigeon peas might not deliver a harvest until next January, plant them now for years of delicious nutty flavored beans. You’ll also get months of blooms that produce an intoxicating frangrance and feed the bees during the flower-sparse winter.
Tropical Staples to Plant in May
When Florida’s summer heat kicks into high gear, most traditional crops wave the white flag. But tropical staples like sweet potatoes, boniato, malanga, ginger, and turmeric actually thrive when the sun gets punishing.
These plants aren’t just tough — they’re nutrient-dense, calorie-rich, and ideal for anyone serious about growing their own food to save money.
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes are a classic Florida summer crop, and May is prime time for planting slips. They’re also a dual-purpose food: you can harvest the leaves for nutritious greens all summer, and dig up the starchy roots in the fall.
A medium sweet potato packs about 26 grams of complex carbs, along with beta-carotene, potassium, and fiber. They store incredibly well, lasting up to a year in cool, dry conditions. It’s hard to find a cool, dry place anywhere in Florida, but you can always freeze them for later after blanching or boiling them.
Boniato
Boniato, sometimes called Cuban sweet potato, is a white-fleshed cousin of the common sweet potato, but with a lighter, fluffier texture and a flavor somewhere between a potato and a chestnut.
It loves the Florida heat and poor soils and needs very little water once established. Boniato is a staple in Caribbean and Latin American cooking, especially for roasting, mashing, and making hearty stews.
Malanga
Malanga (Xanthosoma spp.) is another incredible staple crop for South and Central Florida gardeners. It’s a starchy root similar to taro. Malanga is rich in fiber and potassium and highly digestible, making it an important food source for people with dietary sensitivities.
Malanga can be boiled, mashed, fried like chips, or added to soups and stews as a thickener. Once harvested, the corms can last several weeks or even months when kept dry and cool.
Ginger / Turmeric
Ginger and turmeric are tropical rhizomes that love Florida’s muggy summers. They’re slow growers but extremely rewarding: a few seed pieces planted in May can yield a surprising harvest by late fall.
Fresh ginger and turmeric are high-value crops — prices at the store can easily top $5–10 per pound. Plus experts have been lauding their health benefits and medicianl uses for decades — so there’s another way they can help you stretch your buying power.
Growing your own gives you access to anti-inflammatory, antioxidant-rich roots at a fraction of the cost. Both can be frozen, dehydrated, or turned into powders for long-term storage, making them highly useful in both cooking and natural remedies.
Vegetables and Fruits to Plant in May in Florida
May can be a good time to plant fruits like cantaloupes, honeydews, and watermelons. You can also still plant a few vegetables, like winter squashes, Armenian and Asian cucumbers, and certain tomato varieties. However, growing them in Florida’s heat takes a bit of finesse.
Melons
Cantaloupes and Honeydews thrive in Florida’s heat, but they need some shade to avoid sunburn, especially during the peak afternoon heat. Trellising can help keep them off the soil and reduce the risk of fungal disease and pest infestation. These fruits need consistent moisture, but since Florida’s soil drains quickly, mulch is your friend. It helps retain moisture and keep the roots cool.
Watermelon
Watermelons love the heat, but they’re also prone to pests and disease. Trellising can help save space, and keeping the vines off the ground also reduces pest problems. As with melons, regular, light watering is key — but avoid soaking the leaves to prevent mildew.
Watermelon plants may also need shade during the hottest part of the day to reduce stress. My favorite variety is Sugar Baby, because they’re small enough to trellis and mature quickly before disease and pests can destroy them.
Winter Squash
Winter Squashes (or storage squashes) like Calabaza, Seminole pumpkin, and butternut squash can handle the heat, but watch out for pests like aphids and squash bugs. Mulching the soil helps keep moisture in and the fruits off the soil if they’re too large to trellis. Providing some shade, either with cloth or nearby taller plants, can help reduce sunburn and heat stress.
In Florida’s sandy, well-draining soil, make sure you’re watering regularly until the rainy season kicks in. Consider using drip irrigation or soaker hoses for more efficient water delivery. Shade during midday and consistent moisture will help your plants survive and thrive throughout the summer.
Yardlong Beans
Sometimes called asparagus beans or Chinese long beans, yardlong beans thrive in Florida’s climate, even during a drought. Native to Southeast Asia, they love the heat and humidity and will start producing fast, often within just 60 days of planting.
The vines can grow 8 to 10 feet tall, so you’ll want to give them a sturdy trellis.
(Make good use of the shade they provide to protect more sun-senstive plants like peppers).
Each pod can grow over two feet long, but they’re best picked around 18 inches for tenderness. Yardlong beans have a mild, slightly nutty flavor and stay crisp even when cooked, making them perfect for quick stir-fries, light sautés, and even tempura. A few plants can keep a family in fresh beans all summer—and any extra pods can be blanched and frozen for later.
Yes, You CAN Plant Tomatoes in May in Florida
If you missed Florida’s prime tomato-growing months (usually September through April), there are still a few tried-and-true varieties that will survive our hot, humid climate.
Everglades
Everglades Tomatoes are a Florida favorite. These small, cherry-sized tomatoes are incredibly heat-tolerant and resistant to many of the common pests and diseases that can plague tomatoes in Florida.
They thrive in hot weather, making them perfect for planting in May. Their flavor is sweet and tangy, and they produce prolifically, so you can enjoy a steady harvest throughout the summer months.
So, even if you really wanted tomatoes for making sauce, a few extra Everglades tomato plants in your summer garden will provide. These intensely-flavored gems make excellent sauces. Investing in a food mill to remove all the skins and seeds makes quick work of turning out a smooth tomato paste or BBQ sauce.
Sweeties is another excellent choice for Florida gardens. These small, round, red tomatoes are known for their exceptional sweetness. They’re perfect for snacking right off the vine or tossing in salads. Sweeties are also incredibly productive, and their compact growth makes them a good choice for small spaces or container gardening.
Gardener’s Delight is a reliable heirloom cherry tomato that grows well in Florida’s heat. These tomatoes have a rich, classic tomato flavor that’s both sweet and tangy, and they hold up well against disease and heat stress. Gardener’s Delight is a true workhorse in the garden, providing a steady crop even in less-than-ideal conditions.
Large Red Cherry Tomatoes are a also great option. These tomatoes are slightly bigger than traditional cherry tomatoes but still maintain the classic sweetness and firm texture that makes them so popular. They are great for fresh eating, making sauces, or adding to dishes like bruschetta. They are also known for being resistant to cracking and pests, which is important in Florida’s sometimes unpredictable weather.
Tomato Survival Hacks for Florida Summer Tomatoes
To ensure your heirloom tomatoes thrive, be sure to water consistently. But avoid overwatering — cherry tomatoes (especially Everglades) have notoriously thin skins that can split easily.
Mulching helps retain moisture and keeps the roots cool. Trellising your tomatoes keeps them off the ground, making them easier to harvest. It also makes it easier to spray the leaf-footed bugs that love to enjoy your tomatoes before you do. If possible, some afternoon shade helps keep them thriving, especially when temperatures peak in summer.
Last, but certainly not least, challenging temperatures across the country and adjustments to climate change have inspired many gardeners to experiment with shade cloth. I tried this last summer, and while I need to improve my setup structures, I was impressed enough with results to repeat the experiment.
Why Plant Cherry Tomatoes in May?
Cherry tomatoes keep producing through Florida’s heat because their tiny flowers set fruit reliably even when daytime temps soar above 90°F. Large slicer varieties, by contrast, need cooler nights (below 75°F) to germinate pollen. More often than not, regular tomato plants drop blooms when it’s too hot, so you end up with empty trusses instead of ripe fruit.
Smaller fruits also mean cherry plants can support dozens of tomatoes without needing huge amounts of water or nutrients all at once. Their steady, spread-out flowering means you’ll get bites of ripe fruit between heat waves, rather than betting everything on a single truss that might fail in a sudden heat spike. That’s why cherry and grape types are the smart choice for a Florida summer garden.
The Secret to Summer Gardening in Florida
If there is any wisdom I can pass on about what to plant in May in Florida, it is this: The faster a vegetable or fruit produces, the less exposure to heat, sun, spores, and insects it will have to endure.
While some vegetables will happily endure the harsh elements (sweet potatoes, cowpeas, okra, etc.), others are destined to live fast and die young (small melons, cucumbers, etc). This has proven true to me during every season in a wildly changeable climate.
Find the fastest maturing varieties you can for the best results.
Embracing the Slow Burn
Now that you’ve planted your heat-hardy staples — pigeon peas, sweet potato and boniato slips, southern peas, cherry tomatoes, and more — it’s time to step back, stay cool, and let nature do its thing.
Get out of the sun, for pity’s sake!
These crops aren’t in a rush; many take the full summer to deliver a harvest. Use this hot, slow season to relax in the shade, sip cold drinks, and give your garden a light check-in now and then rather than daily toil in the blazing sun.
By the time temperatures start to dip in September, you’ll have a pantry full of nutritious pantry staples. You’ll also be rested and ready for fall — the real growing season in Florida.
April in Florida isn’t for the faint of heart—or the cool-season crops. The days heat up and spring surrenders to summer with a whimper. So, it’s time to embrace the sun-loving, heat-thriving plants that won’t wither under the pressure. Whether you’re in North, Central, or South Florida, this is the month to swap out those fading winter veggies for those that bask in the heat and humidity. So, grab your trowel, slap on some sunscreen, and let’s talk about what to plant in April in Florida—before the summer sun really starts flexing its muscles.
Plant Heat-Loving Staples in April
Even in early April, summer starts to creep into our consciousness with midday temps in the high 80s and even 90s. Ironically, this is the perfect time to think about preparing for winter food requirements.
The one thing that still amazes me about gardening in Florida is that we really can grow our own food year round. But
April in Central Florida is the perfect time to plant staple crops. These tough, drought-tolerant crops thrive in the rising heat, and most are low-maintenance. This means you won’t have to spend hours in the hot sun or pouring rain tending to your garden.
Many help enrich the soil while producing a steady supply of food through the summer. Others, help keep it loose and friable, fighting compaction.
Peanuts: Set-It-and-Forget-It
Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea) are one of the easiest crops to grow in Florida, as long as you have enough room. I don’t have enough room for peanuts, but I have to present these as a great option for those that do. They pack so much nutrition into such a delicious legume, they deserve to top the list as a staple crop for the South.
First Quality Non-GMO Peanut Seeds – Current Lab Test Data Shown on Packet
Exclusive Gold Vault Packaging – Provides 3X Longer Storage than Paper or Plastic with Triple Layer Mylar Gold Foil.
Peanuts flower above ground but produce their pods underground — a fascinating process you may have observed if your spouse has a bad squirrel-feeding habit like mine does.
Space them a few inches apart in loose, sandy soil, and they’ll take care of the rest. Peanuts need about four to five months to mature, making them a great long-term crop for Florida’s extended warm season.
Southern Peas: True Heat Warriors
When the heat starts taking a toll on other vegetables, Southern peas (Vigna unguiculata) just keep growing. Also called cowpeas, black-eyed peas, crowder peas, and cream peas, these legumes have been a Southern staple for centuries, thriving in hot, dry conditions where other crops fail.
Southern peas are easygoing and don’t ask for much—just full sun, well-drained soil, and occasional watering. They grow as bush or vining plants, producing pods packed with protein-rich peas that can be eaten fresh, shelled and dried, or even cooked whole as tender snap beans.
Seeds for Purple Hull Peas- Knuckle Purple Hull peas are named for large purple hulls filled with cowpeas that have a green color with a purple “eye” when fresh….
Beyond their value as a food crop, Southern peas are also natural soil builders. As legumes, they fix nitrogen in the soil, improving fertility for future plantings. Many gardeners use them as a cover crop to enrich the soil while producing a reliable harvest at the same time.
Plant Sweet Potato: For a Bountiful Harvest This Fall
April is the also the perfect time to plant sweet potato and boniato slips. These heat-loving root crops thrive in the rising temperatures and longer days of spring, giving them plenty of time to establish before summer’s peak growth season.
Unlike traditional seed-planted crops, sweet potatoes and boniatos are grown from slips—small rooted cuttings that quickly take off once planted in warm soil.
You can grow your own sweet potato slips but get started as soon as possible in order to give them enough time to produce a crop by December. Sweet potatoes are perennial in Florida, but if they’re still small by winter, they’ll go dormant. You can leave them till spring, but they can get woody if left too long.
One of the best things about planting sweet potatoes and boniatos is how little maintenance they require. Once they start growing, their sprawling vines act as a natural weed barrier, covering the ground and keeping moisture in the soil.
They don’t need much fertilizing, and by late summer or early fall, you’ll be digging up a generous harvest of delicious, nutrient-packed tubers.
Time to Plant Winter Squash in April in Florida
April is prime time for planting winter squash in Central Florida, especially heat-loving varieties like Calabaza and Seminole pumpkin.
While the name “winter squash” might make you think they belong in cooler weather, these varieties actually thrive when planted in spring and grown through the long, hot summer. That’s just when they’re perfect for eating.
The name “winter squash” refers to their amazing shelf life. You can keep a ripe, well-cured pumpkin for several months in a cool, dark storage room — all winter long.
Calabaza Squash: The Tropical Powerhouse
Calabaza squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a favorite in Latin American and Caribbean cuisine, known for its deep orange flesh, rich flavor, and resistance to pests and diseases. It thrives in Florida’s heat and humidity, producing sprawling vines that need plenty of space to roam.
The squash itself comes in various shapes, from round and squat to elongated, but all varieties share a sweet, nutty taste that works beautifully in soups, stews, and roasted dishes.
Seminole Pumpkin: Florida’s Native Squash
If there’s one squash perfectly suited to Florida’s climate, it’s the Seminole pumpkin. Grown by the indigenous Seminole people for centuries, this hardy squash is practically indestructible. It shrugs off heat, humidity, drought, and even pests that bother other squash varieties.
The fruits are typically round, with tan or orange skin, and have a dense, sweet flesh similar to butternut squash. Seminole pumpkins store exceptionally well, making them a great choice for gardeners who want a reliable, long-lasting harvest.
Butternut Squash: Sweet, Smooth, and Reliable
Butternut squash is another great choice for Florida gardens in April. While it may not be as pest-resistant as Seminole pumpkin or Calabaza, it makes up for it with its smooth, easy-to-peel skin and rich, creamy texture.
Butternut squash is excellent for roasting, pureeing into soups, or even using in baked goods. Just like the others, butternut squash needs plenty of space, full sun, and warm soil to thrive.
Pigeon Peas the Permaculture Paragon of Survival Gardening
April is a great time plant pigeon peas (Cajanus cajan), a hardy, drought-tolerant legume that thrives in Florida’s warm climate. These perennial bean bushes can grow 10 feet high, and their cheerful yellow blooms drive pollinators bonkers.
Since they’re perennials, you can plant them nearly any time in Florida, but April and May are the last months to plant in time for a really big crop at harvest time. That’s just my experience. There are faster maturing varieties you can find for sale online.
These peas grow well in sandy soils and are a staple in many Caribbean and South Asian dishes. Not only do you get delicious peas but also nitrogen-fixing benefits for your soil. The plants can handle the heat and are relatively low-maintenance, making them perfect for Florida gardens.
Edible Hibiscus Varieties for Florida Gardens
Another fun and flavorful addition to your garden this month is edible hibiscus. Florida’s climate is ideal for cultivating various edible hibiscus species, each offering unique culinary and ornamental benefits. Here are some noteworthy varieties:
Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
Known for its tangy, cranberry-like flavor, the flowers and calyxes of Roselle are perfect for making teas, jams, and even sauces.
This tropical plant loves Florida’s climate and adds a splash of color to the garden, with its vibrant red flowers. Plus, it’s an easy-to-grow perennial that thrives in the heat, offering both beauty and culinary delight to your garden.
Long Leaf Edible Hibiscus (Abelmoschus manihot)
Also known as the “Salad Tree,” this plant thrives in Florida’s USDA zones 9-11. It produces vibrant foliage and flowers, reaching heights of 10-12 feet. It’s very nutritious, and the leaves have a tart, rhubarb-like flavor, suitable for cooked dishes or fresh salads.
Cranberry Hibiscus (Hibiscus acetosella)
Renowned for its deep burgundy leaves and pink-red flowers, this variety is both visually striking and edible. The leaves and calyces (the cup-like structures beneath the flowers) impart a tangy flavor, ideal for teas, juices, and salads.
Hot Weather Herbs to Plant in April in Florida
April is the perfect time to plant out your herb garden here in Florida. Many of the most flavorful culinary herbs that thrive in the heat. Here are some excellent options for Florida’s hot, humid climate:
Cumin
Cumin thrives in hot, dry conditions, making Florida’s summer weather an ideal environment for this spice. Known for its earthy, warm flavor, cumin is a key ingredient in many cuisines, including Indian, Middle Eastern, and Mexican.
It’s a bit of a long-growing herb, so plant it early in April, and be patient — it typically takes several months to mature. Its seeds are harvested for use in both cooking and spice blends.
Ginger
Ginger loves the tropical Florida heat, making it a perfect addition to your garden. It requires plenty of moisture, so be sure to keep the soil consistently damp but not soggy. Harvest the rhizomes, or underground stems, to use in cooking, teas, and making .
Ginger adds a zesty, spicy kick to dishes, from stir-fries to baked goods, and is great for soothing an upset stomach.
Mexican Tarragon
Mexican tarragon (Tagetes lucida) is an herb that adds a bold, anise-like flavor to dishes. Unlike regular tarragon, Mexican tarragon is more heat-tolerant, making it ideal for Florida’s climate.
It’s often used in Mexican and Southwestern cooking, especially in sauces, salsas, and meat dishes. Plus, it has lovely yellow flowers that attract pollinators, adding both beauty and function to your garden.
Turmeric
Turmeric, with its vibrant golden-yellow rhizomes, is another tropical herb that thrives in Florida’s warm, humid conditions. It requires rich, well-draining soil and a lot of water, but the effort is well worth it for the health benefits and bold flavor it provides.
Turmeric is commonly used in curries and teas, and its active compound, curcumin, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Harvesting your own fresh turmeric rhizomes is as satisfying as it is flavorful.
Basil
Basil loves the heat and sunshine of Florida, making it a perfect addition to your herb garden. Whether you’re growing sweet basil for pesto or Thai basil for its peppery kick, this herb will flourish in the warm temperatures of spring and summer.
Like cucumbers, basil plants will grow fast and furious and tend to bolt quickly in the heat. So either keep your basil trimmed regularly or plant out in succession.
Lemongrass
Lemongrass is a tropical herb that thrives in Florida’s hot, humid climate. It’s perfect for adding a citrusy zing to teas, curries, and even soups. With its tall, grass-like stalks, it also makes a lovely ornamental addition to the garden.
Oregano
This hardy herb is known for its ability to withstand the Florida heat. Whether you prefer the Mediterranean variety or Mexican oregano, both are well-suited to our hot summers and add bold, savory flavors to a variety of dishes.
Note that oregano can suffer from flooding, so make sure to plant in sandy, well-draining soil on a high-spot in the garden. Alternatively, you can keep it in containers — terra cotta planters provide the best conditions for Mediterranean plants.
Rosemary
Rosemary is another robust, sun-loving herb that thrives in Florida’s heat, offering both culinary and ornamental value. Its woody fragrance and needle-like leaves make it a favorite in Mediterranean cuisine, and it can withstand dry conditions once established.
Rosemary is another culinary herb that requires elevation in the garden. Summer downpours can drown them, resulting in a quick and dramatic plant death. Again, terracotta pots are a savior for any plant that needs more arid conditions.
Mint
Mint loves warmth and is less touchy about excess moisture. I know a lot of gardeners say it can spread quickly. They recommend keeping it in pots to keep it from overtaking your garden.
I’ve never had that happen in the 30+ years I’ve been gardening in Florida.
Never.
If the summer heat doesn’t kill it dead before it can spread, the spring dry season keeps it from thriving.
Honestly, the best reason for keeping it in containers is to keep the poor things alive through the worst extremes of our climate.
With the right containers, however, you can have a thriving collection of mint plants to add to use in cooking, confections, tea, and making extracts. Place in the shady spots of the garden and use pot trays to ensure adequate moisture.
Plant Heat Resistant and Fast-Cropping Vegetables in April in Florida
Now that we’ve got those reliable staple foods out of the way, let’s look at some seasonal fruits and vegetables to plant in April in Florida.
Beans
April is a great time to plant the last crop of beans of spring. If you haven’t already, now’s the time to get pole beans and bush beans in the ground.
I personally choose fast-maturing bush beans this late in the spring. They will produce prolifically in one or two easy to pick crops within 6-8 weeks — before the heat takes over.
But the real star of the show this month? Yardlong beans.
Yardlong beans are the ultimate heat-loving climber.
April marks the start of yardlong bean season. (Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis) This is a moment worth celebrating if you love a high-yield, low-maintenance crop. Originally from Southeast Asia, these beans are built for Florida’s relentless sun and humidity.
Unlike traditional green beans, yardlong beans grow fast and furious but need hot weather to really thrive. They produce sprawling vines that need a trellis or support system to keep them off the ground.
In just a couple of months, they’ll start pumping out impressively long, slender pods — often reaching 18 inches or more — that dangle in pairs like green or red noodles swaying in the breeze.
Their flavor is a bit different from regular green beans—milder, slightly nutty, with a hint of sweetness—and they have a crisp-tender texture that holds up beautifully in cooking.
A staple in many Asian cuisines, yardlong beans are perfect for stir-fries, sautés, curries, and soups. They have a knack for soaking up flavors. Use garlic and soy sauce for Asian inspiration, or coconut milk and nutmeg for a taste of the Caribbean. A quick toss in olive oil with salt and pepper and garlic provides an Italian taste profile.
Hot Weather Fruits and Vegetables to Plant in April in Florida
April is also a good time plant melons in Florida. With rising temperatures and long sunny days, these heat-loving vines will take off. Cantaloupe, honeydew, and watermelon all thrive in Florida’s warm climate, but each has its own personality in the garden.
Cantaloupe: Sweet and Musky
Cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. reticulatus) is a fast-growing melon that loves full sun and well-draining soil. The vines produce round, netted fruits with orange, fragrant flesh that’s packed with natural sweetness.
Give them plenty of space, regular watering, and good air circulation to keep powdery mildew at bay. I personally trellis all my melons if size allows, and you can support cantaloupes with leftover net bags used for onions and citrus.
Honeydew: Smooth, Cool, and Refreshing
Honeydew melons (Cucumis melo var. inodorus) are similar to cantaloupes but have smooth, pale green skin and firmer, subtly sweet flesh. They need the same growing conditions—full sun, warm soil, and plenty of room to spread.
Unlike cantaloupes, honeydews don’t “slip” off the vine when ripe, so you’ll need to check for a creamy yellowish hue on the skin and a slightly soft blossom end to know when they’re ready to harvest.
Watermelon: The Ultimate Summer Treat
Most watermelons (Citrullus lanatus) need even more space than cantaloupes or honeydews, but they’re worth it. These vines stretch far and wide, producing large, juicy fruits that are the ultimate Florida summer refreshment.
If you don’t have the garden space for growing big watermelons, you can plant personal-sized varieties. Again, I recommend trellising. Sugar Baby Watermelons are my favorite. They take up little space when trained on a support, and they grow and ripen quicker than full-size varieties.
Watermelons love the heat but require consistent watering, especially while the fruits are developing. To know when they’re ripe, look for a dried tendril near the fruit’s stem and a yellow spot where the melon has been resting on the ground.
Perfect for Florida Summers
All three melons do best in sandy, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter mixed in. Give them deep, infrequent watering to encourage strong root growth, and keep an eye out for pests like aphids and cucumber beetles. By planting in April, you’ll be enjoying sweet, homegrown melons just in time for the peak of summer.
Get Cucumbers and Summer Squash in the Ground
If you want fresh, crisp cucumbers and tender summer squash, now’s the time to plant them in Central Florida. These fast-growing plants thrive in warm weather, but there’s one important step you don’t want to skip—trellising!
With Florida’s rainy season on the horizon, keeping your cucumbers and squash off the ground will help prevent disease, reduce pest problems, and make harvesting a whole lot easier.
Cucumbers: Crisp, Refreshing, and Quick to Produce
Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) grow fast in Florida’s spring heat, producing fruit in as little as 50 days. Whether you prefer slicing cucumbers for fresh eating or pickling varieties for homemade pickles, they’ll all benefit from vertical growing.
You can get a longer cucumber harvest by sowing starts in succession. Cucumbers live fast and die young, so use generously sized cell trays (even better — use soil blocks) to sow cucumber seeds for planting out every three weeks for a continuous harvest.
You can start them as early as January and keep planting them out until May if you’re willing to cover during cold nights and provide shade cloth in May and June. This is even easier to do if you grow them in containers.
Summer Squash
Zucchini and yellow squash (Cucurbita pepo) are garden favorites, but Florida’s humidity can be tough on them. Like cucumbers, summer squash plants benefit from support—especially vining varieties.
Training them onto a trellis or staking them upright keeps the leaves dry, helps prevent fungal issues, and makes it harder for pests like squash bugs to hide.
With Florida’s rainy season approaching, ground-level vines can quickly become a soggy mess. Wet foliage leads to fungal diseases, and damp soil invites slugs, pill bugs, and other pests that love to snack on tender squash and cucumbers.
Only For the Brave: Time to Plant Sweet Corn or Dent Corn
April is the time to plant sweet corn or dent corn in Florida, but this crop isn’t for the faint of heart. Corn requires fertile, well-draining soil, which can be a challenge in Florida’s sandy ground.
It also doesn’t love being too wet, so managing moisture—especially with the state’s rainy season on the horizon — can be tricky.
In Florida’s heat, pests are another obstacle. Corn is prone to issues with aphids, corn earworms, and even wildlife like squirrels. Regular monitoring and pest control measures will be essential if you want to keep your crop safe.
While I will not be planting sweet corn this April, I wanted to mention it, since it’s the last month of spring worth the effort. Fall and winter is usually easier, but if you have the room and time to pamper them, it’s often worth it.
Keep plenty of bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) on hand and don’t get lazy about your spraying schedule if you plan to get to eat any of it.
Pepper and Tomato Plants to Get Into the Ground in April
April is the last month of spring to plant pepper and tomato plants in Florida, but it’s important to be mindful of the heat when choosing varieties.
Peppers (Chili or Sweet)
Whether you’re growing spicy chili peppers orsweet bell peppers, April is last month to put pepper plants into the garden until fall. Note that it’s a bit late to grow them outdoors from seed — although you could start them indoors from seed and plant out in August.
Peppers love heat and sunshine, making them a great choice for Florida’s warm climate. But they easily scorch in the hot summer sun. But with the right care, they’ll deliver a bountiful harvest.
Shade cloth during the hottest hours of the day can help keep them protected, while a thick layer of hay or other organic mulch can keep their roots cool and hydrated.
Tomatoes for Florida Summers
For those eager to get their tomatoes going, cherry tomato plants are your best bet. Regular slicing or saucing tomatoes will definitely start to struggle in the Florida heat come June. Even more frustratingly, they require lower temperatures at night to set fruit. So, even if you keep them healthy and pristine — free from pests or blight — they won’t set fruit as nighttime temps climb into the mid 70s.
But cherry tomatoes are smaller, more heat-tolerant, and perfect for Florida’s climate.
You might even want to consider Everglades tomatoes, a variety specifically adapted to Florida’s conditions. They’re North America’s only “native” tomatoes, having become naturalized to Florida many hundreds of years ago.
Every other tomato on the market today was developed in Europe from South American varieties. However, Everglades were brought directly to Florida from Peru, and they’re pretty much the same species that still grows in the Andes today.
In fact, Everglades tomatoes are a distinct species (Solanum pimpinellifolium) from even the heirloom varieties we grow in the U.S. (Solanum lycopersicum).
These tiny, hardy tomatoes are incredibly resilient and prolific, producing fruit through the hottest months of summer and often through winter, as well.
And while they’re too tiny to make a BLT, it won’t take long until you have several gallons of these little gems that make the world’s best barbecue sauce.
Time to Plant in April in Florida Before the Summer Heat Kicks In!
April is your last big window to get warm-season crops in the ground before Florida’s summer heat makes gardening a real challenge. The longer you wait, the tougher it gets—so grab your seeds, slips, and transplants and get growing!
With the right choices, your garden will be thriving well into the hotter months, rewarding you with fresh veggies, herbs, and fruits.
Don’t let the Florida sun catch you off guard—plant now and enjoy the harvest before the real heat sets in!
December and January were weird, am I right? How about that whole week of winter? Usually, Florida gardeners are doing the majority of their spring planting in February. I don’t know about you, but I certainly didn’t feel confident about starting anything in the greenhouse. Too often, temperatures will drop into the 30s and 40s in mid-March. So be prepared to cover tender vegetable plants or bring tiny seedlings indoors.
Here on the Gulf Coast, the two major hurricanes in the fall and the persistantly cold weather in December meant a non-starter on our spring seed sowing. My fall tomatoes went in late (in November), and managed to survive the cold spells. So, I’m just going with those. I do have some peppers ready to plant out and I did start some cucumbers that I’ll plant out soon.
It pays to follow the forecast and be prepared for anything and everything. However, for the most part, it’s definitely time to get planting in February, wherever in Florida you live.
South Florida
Gardeners in Zones 10-11 usually find that they can keep their starter trays outdoors through most of February. You’ll want to keep them under cover and move indoors in the case of a cold snap.
South Florida gardeners may find their fall vegetables are still cropping
Start Indoors in February for South Florida
In February, we’re sowing the following starter plants:
Other edible vegetables you can start indoors in February in South Florida Zones 10-11 include:
chives
cilantro
dill
fennel
luffa
marjoram
oregano
parsley
rosemary
thyme
Direct Sow in February for South Florida
I like to start almost all of my vegetable garden in cells or soil blocks and plant out in a few weeks. But I do direct sow a few things that simply perform better when planted directly.
Other edible garden plants suitable for direct sowing in February in Florida Zones 10-11 include:
arugula
beets
bush beans
cabbage
carrots
cassava
chaya
collards
comfrey
corn
daikon
ginger
green onions
Irish (white) potatoes
kohlrabi
leeks
lettuce
mustard
okra
peas
pole beans
radish
shallots
sweet potato slips
Swiss chard
turnips
Central Florida
The central strip of the state that extends from the Gulf Coast to the Atlantic covers Zone 9b and 10a. Zone 10a includes the cities of Tampa and Orlando, while some of the more inland areas remain in 9b. Ocala and Gainesville are in 9a. Jacksonville is in zone 9b.
Even though Jacksonville is technically located in the north of the state, its proximity to the coast means a warmer climate. Keep track of the different microclimates in your garden and adjust as needed to meet those conditions.
Sow Indoors in February for Central Florida
Gardeners in Central Florida in Zones 9a to 9b can sow starter plants indoors until they’re well established enough to plant out at the end of March:
basil
cantaloupe
Cape gooseberry
chives
cilantro
cucumbers
dill
eggplant
leeks
luffa
marjoram
okra
oregano
parsley
peppers, chili
peppers, sweet
rosemary
summer squash
thyme
tomatoes
winter squash
Direct Sow in February for Central Florida
Central Florida gardeners can sow many cold-hardy vegetables directly, if they prefer:
arugula
beans, bush, and pole
beets
broccoli
Brussels sprouts
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
collards
comfrey
corn
daikon
green onions
Irish potatoes
kale
kohlrabi
lettuce
mustard
peas
pumpkins
radish
spinach
sweet potato slips
Swiss chard
turnips
watermelon
North Florida
North Florida gardeners find themselves in Zone 9a and 9b. A small few are in 8b, after the USDA zone map update of 2023.
But most of the northern span of the state is solidly placed in zone 9, which includes the city of Tallahassee and most of the panhandle.
Florida Gardeners along the Gulf Coast near Pensacola and Panama City may find that their proximity to water gives them more leeway for planting early. To pinpoint your growing zone, use the search tool on the USDA website.
Sow Indoors in February in North Florida
The last frost date for Zone 9 is in February, but it pays to be cautious considering how eratic our weather has been. North Florida gardeners may prefer to get a jump on spring by starting the following seeds indoors:
Temperatures will remain low enough for many cool-season vegetables that you can plant directly in Zone 9:
arugula
beans, bush, and pole
beets
broccoli
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
collards
corn
garlic
green onions
Irish potatoes
kale
kohlrabi
lettuce
mustard
onion sets
peas
radish
spinach
Swiss chard
turnips
Getting Ready for Your Planting in February in Florida
It sometimes seems like the seasons change too quickly in Florida. And yes, we do actually have seasons. A few years of gardening here will teach you how to note the differences, and you’ll soon feel them in your bones.
It also sometimes seems like you have to plant everything all at once if you hope to get any kind of yield. The mildness of spring can quickly become the sweltering heat of summer. That’s if you don’t get a surprise frost in March!
But relax and take it one step at a time. If you start sowing your spring seeds in late January or in February, you’ll find you can pace yourself. You still have time for some cool-season vegetables early in the year, so take advantage of it.
Warm-season vegetables, like peppers and tomatoes, can be potted up as they grow until it’s safe to plant them into the garden. Be prepared to cover anything outdoors, if necessary, but otherwise, succession planting is your friend.
If you need a tool that will help you keep track of what to plant and when, as well as some helpful advice on the best vegetable varieties to plant in Florida, check out our Florida Gardening Planner. You’ll also find even more vegetable varieties for planting in February in Florida. You can purchase it in print from Amazon or as a digital download on Etsy to print out as needed.
I hate to say it, but Hurricanes Helene and Milton actually gave me a chance to regroup. I could sit back, think hard, and approach my winter garden more thoughtfully. They may not pay off, but it also gave me the opportunity to take some chances. But now it’s time to figure out what to plant in January.
We’re still cleaning up after the hurricanes. There’s still a lot of work to do, but my first step was to detox the garden beds. It seems that seawather inundated every square foot of my active gardening space. Plants don’t like seawater. Not a bit. This resulted in the loss of nearly everything except some very established ornamentals. So, flushing out the salt water from the storm surge from Hurricane Helene was my top gardening priority.
Some Gardening Product Recommendations
Some very nice horiticultural companies reached out and offered me their products to help restore the soil. The first was Elm Dirt, which I used to restore the potted plants that were my fall inventory. The fact that most of them survived after sitting in about a foot of saltwater overnight is a miracle.
Organic Plant Food: Elm Dirt Plant Food is a premium organic fertilizer crafted with utmost care and dedication. It harnesses the power of premium worm castings and high-quality organic nutrients, making it an ideal choice for nourishing a wide range of plants. From house plants to gardens, shrubs, roses, and even hydrangeas.
Another great company that offered their assistance was Simple Grow Solutions. They provided me a nice big bottle of their Sea Hume product to help restore the structural damage in my soil after the flood.
Some post-storm research suggested that humic acid and biochar may help remediate any long-lasting damage, so I was excited to try their product.
I’ve been making and applying my own biochar for the last couple of years, but had no ready source of humic acid. And yes, the irony that sea kelp may help sea-polluted soil didn’t fail to amuse.
Seaweed 8%: Liquid Sea Kelp Concentrate blended with Ascophyllum Nodosum Seaweed harvested in the Icy North Atlantic.
Humic Acid 1%: Sea Hume is a Highly Concentrated form of Liquefied Carbon Derived from the Highest Quality Humate Source, Leonardite. Leonardite is Considered by many to be the Highest Quality form of Humic Acid.
Last, but not least, my cuttings were not only also soaked for hours in seawater, but were late to potting up. If I was going to recover my inventory with any speed in time for spring sales, I needed to pamper them as much as possible to ensure they hadn’t been set back any further.
The folks at Smart Grower sent me a package of their SuperCharge Mycorrhizal Fungi Blend I used when potting them up. I’ll follow up with my results from them in another post, but I do recommend this stuff highly.
Save Sick Plants Fast – Revive struggling plants with a powerful blend of Mycorrhizal Fungi, Trichoderma, and Bacillus that restores root health and boosts nutrient uptake for vibrant growth
January is a Month of Transitions
January doesn’t just mark the start of a new year, it’s also the time to transition from cool-season crops to warm-season crops — at least in Central and South Florida.
Depending on the forecast, you can start planting warm-season crops in South Florida, and start warm-season crops indoors in North and Central Florida.
There’s also plenty of time to start fast-growing cool-season crops, like lettuces, spinaches, and cabbages. In North Florida, you could probably even still grow those that take a bit longer, like cauliflower and brocolli. No promises, though, as the climate has become increasingly erratic over the last decade.
I generally start all my vegetable plants in soil blocks or cell trays, anyway. (Except for those that really MUST be direct sown, like beans and peas. This allows me to make the most of succession planting and filling in the odd gaps here and there for more production.
We’re supposed to get an Arctic Blast over the next two weeks, so I’ll be sowing indoors exclusively and working to keep things toasty through the month.
What to Plant in January Indoors
The good news is that if you get the urge to garden and plant in January, it’s one of the times in Florida when you can pretty much start everything and anything. Start warm-season vegetables indoors, especially the long-season ones like tomatoes and peppers.
It’s also not too late to start some cool-season vegetables outdoors, particularly varieties that mature quickly.
Tomatoes
I always grow tomatoes. I always grow more tomatoes than I need. Sometimes, I sell the starter plants at local markets in the spring, but we’re thinking of relocating next year, and my focus has been on downsizing my inventory.
In Zone 10, you can start tomatoes from late December through January for planting out in late February. You can also start them indoors in Zones 9, though you’ may ‘ll need to be prepared to pot them up at least once if they outgrow their starter cells. It’s really one of the best arguments for using soil blocks.
You may even have tomatoes growing from fall, like I do. Despite the saltwater flood, I got a plethora of volunteers over winter. Just be prepared to cover them as necessary.
I normally rely on varieties like Gardener’s Delight for salads, and Marglobefor slicing, and San Marzano for sauce. I know a lot of people recommend Roma for Florida, but I’ve honestly found they’re too susceptible to fungal disease to produce well.
The Everglades seem to make their own arrangements.
If you’re not sure which varieties of tomatoes to look for, check out my list of the best vegetable varieties for Florida.
Peppers
Peppers don’t seem to be fazed by any kind of weather in my zone. Unless they’re hit by Whitefly or bacterial wilt, they’re nearly indestructible and certainly perennial. My tabasco peppers dropped all their leaves after the seawater flood, but are starting to leaf out and grow pretty abundantly.
You can start both sweet peppers and hot varieties indoors. Both types require a lot of time to mature and fruit, and they also produce more fruit if you prune them back at 12”. This means that it feels like forever before you get any peppers at all.
For this reason, start peppers as soon as reasonable or possible so they have a significant head start before spring. They take so long, it’s even worth setting up space indoors with a grow light if you really love peppers.
Melons
I have finally mastered watermelons – and the secret for me seems to grow small varieties, like Sugar Baby, and trellis them. I’ll try to fill up every trellis I can improvise now that I know what works best for me.
Cantaloupe and Honeydew are usually pretty reliable for me. Zones 10 and 11 can start any of them indoors in January, while Zone 9 should wait until next month.
While cucumbers are technically a type of melon, they quickly outgrow their seed tray cells and are too sensitive to cold to plant out in January. I’ll be starting these in cell trays so I can pull them indoors if necessary.
Many home gardeners find they don’t transplant well, so they prefer to direct sow. If you haven’t been successful with them to date, try experimenting with both methods to see what works for you.
Squash
Winter squash is a breeze in Zone 10a, but I haven’t mastered the knack of summer varieties. I planted out cocozelle zuchinni in November on a whim, and they look healthy and strong now. I’m just not sure how well they’ll produce.
Corn
Damage on corn from the Big Christmas Freeze 2022
Corn is another vegetable garden staple whose success seems to elude me here on the Gulf Coast. I did have it sussed a couple of years ago, and had a beautiful stand of Early Golden Bantam growing. Then the freak 3-night freeze of Christmas 2022 killed them all off.
If you have the space and the patience and enough Spinosad, January is a good time to start your corn in Central or South Florida.
When it comes to corn, Zones 10 and 11 can plant in January, while North Florida gardeners should wait until February.
Herbs
I only occasionally sow and grow herbs, and that’s because they tend to be much cheaper to buy than the time and attention they take to grow in my climate. Most culinary herbs prefer a drier climate than I can provide. I do have a few basil volunteers I’m tending.
Start both perennial and annual herbs indoors in January. Pinch back basil aggressively until planting out to increase bushiness.
Plant in January Outdoors
January is definitely not too late to plant another round of winter vegetables. I often opt for quick-growing varieties for this reason.
Brassicas
Early Jersey Wakefield cabbage is ready in 60 to 70 days. Collards and Brazilian broccoli are very heat tolerant and will continue to flourish into early summer, even though they’re technically cool-season veg.
Asian cabbages, bok choy, mustard, tatsoi, and other brassicas are also good candidates to plant in January. If you’re in Zone 9, you can even have time for cauliflower and celery. Those in Zones 10 and 11 should look for quick-maturing varieties, however.
Peas and Green Beans
January may be your last chance to plant garden peas and snow peas. It’s well worth the effort, and if if we get the long, cold winter that was predicted, take advantage of it.
You can also plant green beans in Zone 11, as well.
Root Vegetables
Consider adding some root vegetables too, like carrots and rutabaga. If you don’t think the cool weather will hold, plant radishes, most of which will be ready in 28 to 45 days. I recently sowed Daikonand French Breakfast radish, and there’s still enough winter days left to sow more.
Turnips are also quicker to harvest than other root veg, and generally more heat tolerant as well.
Onions
Alliums are nice additions to the mid-winter garden, and again, if you’re concerned the weather will get too hot too quickly, green onions grow quickly. Otherwise, it’s not too late for onion sets, leeks, or shallots.
No matter where you are in Florida, your county ag extension office can offer some reliable options for your gardening schedule.
For you floral fanatics, January also offers a lot of opportunities.
Most perennial flowering plants do best when planted in the fall. If sown from seed, it gives any cold snaps the ability to break the seed’s dormancy. When planted in the early fall, the plants have time to get established to then regrow and bloom in the spring.
But that doesn’t mean it’s too late to get them started now. You can sow starts of tropical salvia, blue salvia, purple coneflower and other perennials in January to plant out in February.
As far as annuals are concerned, you can sow or plant out cool-season flowers, like pansies, petunias, nigella, and bachelor’s buttons in January. A light frost will not set them back if they’re grown from seed. And placed with some protection from larger specimens will help starter plants weather through any cold snaps.
In North and Central Florida, you can plant Asters. For South Florida gardeners, add nasturtiums.
In North Florida, you can start lavender and snapdragons. Central Florida gardeners can plant dianthus. In balmy South Florida, calendula, nicotania, and sunflowers are three you can plant in January.
Plan Ahead or Pants It?
There’s a lot to be said for the joy of discovering a new flower or vegetable that you can start right away. Especially in the dreary days following the let-down of the holiday season. What greater joy than finding that there ARE many ways you can get started on a brand-new gardening season?
But there’s also much to advocate for when it comes to planning ahead. Knowing ahead of time what you’re going to plant and when you need to start it is one reliable way of providing food security for your family.
It’s certainly one way to narrow down those plants and varieties work best in your microclimate. Planning your garden ahead of time leaves a record of your successes and failures. In fact, I would have given up on watermelons and cucumbers years ago if I hadn’t planned for trellising two varieties and made note of a very abundant harvest.
I’ve compiled a garden planning tool for this very method. If you’d like to create a more productive garden that makes the most of Florida’s eccentric gardening calendar, check out my Florida Gardening Planner. (Those in Louisiana and Georgia will find the same), available on Amazon in digital download or print.
Florida’s climate, with its sunny days and mild winters, offers an excellent opportunity for growing fresh, healthy vegetables year-round. A container vegetable garden is an especially convenient for Floridians.
Using containers is an adaptable way to cultivate your favorite veggies, whether you live in a high-rise apartment, have limited yard space, or simply prefer the flexibility of moving plants to the best light or shade.
It’s also one way many gardeners can insure quality soil, despite our nutrient-poor and sandy soils.
With the right techniques, container-grown vegetables can thrive in Florida’s unique conditions, producing abundant harvests for your table.
Why Choose a Container Vegetable Garden?
Adaptability to Space Limitations
Container gardening is perfect for gardeners without a large backyard. You can grow vegetables on patios, balconies, or even indoors near a sunny window. This flexibility makes fresh produce accessible no matter where you live.
Control Over Soil Quality
Florida’s native soils can range from sandy and nutrient-poor to heavy and waterlogged. By growing in containers, you can use high-quality potting mixes tailored to your vegetables, ensuring optimal growth conditions.
Mobility for Sun and Weather Protection
Containers allow you to move your plants to chase the sun during shorter winter days or provide shade during the intense summer heat. Additionally, you can bring containers indoors or to sheltered areas during Florida’s unpredictable storms or rare cold snaps.
Reduced Pest Issues
Growing vegetables in containers elevates them off the ground, making them less accessible to certain pests like nematodes and soil-borne pathogens. This can lead to healthier plants and better yields.
Water and Fertilizer Efficiency
Containers let you deliver water and nutrients directly to the roots, reducing waste and runoff. With proper care, a container vegetable garden often grows faster and more vigorously than their in-ground counterparts.
Container Requirements for Florida Vegetable Gardens
Herbs are perfect to add to your container vegetable garden, like these edible nasturtiums.
Success in container gardening begins with proper setup. Florida’s unique climate calls for thoughtful choices in containers, soil, and placement. Here’s what you need to know:
Choosing the Right Container
Selecting the right container is essential for healthy vegetables in Florida’s conditions.
Size Matters: Most vegetables need containers at least 12 inches deep to accommodate their roots. Larger vegetables like tomatoes or peppers thrive in containers closer to 18 inches deep.
Drainage is Key: Look for containers with multiple drainage holes to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot, especially during Florida’s rainy season. If your container lacks sufficient drainage, consider drilling extra holes.
Temperature Control: Light-colored containers are ideal for keeping roots cooler in the summer, reflecting heat rather than absorbing it. In cooler winter months, darker containers can help retain warmth for year-round growing.
Self-Watering Containers: Consider self-watering containers for vegetables that require consistent moisture, such as leafy greens or cucumbers. These systems reduce watering frequency and help prevent soil from drying out in the summer heat.
Soil and Drainage
The right soil mix ensures strong, productive plants in containers.
Use Quality Potting Soil: A lightweight, well-draining potting soil designed for vegetables provides the nutrients and structure plants need. Avoid using garden soil, which can compact in containers and lead to poor aeration.
Enhance with Additives: To help retain moisture during Florida’s scorching summers, consider mixing in moisture-retaining crystals or organic materials like coconut coir. These additions prevent your plants from drying out too quickly.
Focus on Drainage: Incorporate materials like perlite or coarse sand into your potting mix to further improve drainage, ensuring that your vegetables don’t sit in soggy soil.
Positioning and Protection
Proper placement and care can make or break a container vegetable garden in Florida’s challenging weather.
Maximize Sunlight: Place containers in a location that receives 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily, such as a sunny patio or south-facing balcony.
Mobility for Protection: Use containers with built-in wheels or invest in plant caddies for larger pots. This mobility allows you to easily move plants during storms, Florida’s summer downpours, or even chilly winter nights.
Shade During Heat Waves: During the peak of summer, vegetables may need afternoon shade to avoid overheating. Use shade cloths or position containers under an awning or tree during the hottest part of the day.
Microclimate Benefits: Group containers together to create a microclimate, which helps retain humidity and shields plants from drying winds. This setup is especially useful during Florida’s dry spring months.
Top 10 Plants for Your Container Vegetable Garden
Here are my recommendations for the top 10 vegetables for container gardens to grow in your Florida landscape. These recommendations are based on the plants’ size and ability to deliver in container conditions:
1. Cherry Tomatoes: A Container Garden Favorite
Cherry tomatoes are among the most rewarding vegetables to grow in containers. Their compact growth habit and continuous fruit production make them ideal for Florida’s unique climate.
Best Varieties
‘Sweet 100’: Prolific producer with sweet, bite-sized fruits.
‘Everglades’: Native to Florida, this variety thrives in heat and humidity.
‘Sun Gold’: A gardener favorite for its vibrant orange fruit and tangy-sweet flavor.
Container Size: Choose a container with a minimum 5-gallon capacity to provide ample room for the plant’s roots. Ensure the container has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
Growing Tips
Support System: Install a tomato cage, stake, or trellis at planting time to avoid damaging roots later. Cherry tomatoes are vigorous climbers and need proper support to stay healthy and productive.
Prune Suckers: Regularly remove the small shoots (suckers) that grow between the main stem and branches. This helps direct energy toward fruit production. This step is not neccessary with ‘Everglades’ tomatoes, however.
Watering: Water deeply to encourage strong root development, but take care to avoid wetting the leaves, which can lead to fungal issues. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.
Common Issues
Leaf Roll: In intense heat, cherry tomato leaves may curl to conserve moisture. This is often a sign of stress but not necessarily harmful. Move containers to a location with light afternoon shade during extreme heat to minimize stress.
Blossom Drop: High temperatures can cause flowers to fall off before setting fruit. Keep plants well-hydrated and provide some shade to improve fruit retention.
Pests: Monitor for common pests like whiteflies or aphids. Treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil, ensuring applications occur in the early morning or evening to prevent leaf burn.
2. Bush Beans: A Compact and Productive Choice
Bush beans are an excellent option for container gardens, offering quick growth and abundant harvests. These heat-tolerant plants are easy to care for and ideal for small spaces.
Recommended Varieties
‘Contender’: A reliable, early-producing variety with tender pods.
‘Provider’: Known for its disease resistance and high yields, even in challenging conditions.
Container Requirements: Select a container that is at least 2-3 gallons in size and a minimum of 6 inches deep. Bush beans don’t require extensive root space, making them well-suited to smaller pots or window boxes. Ensure the container has multiple drainage holes to avoid waterlogged roots.
Growing Success
Succession Planting: To enjoy a continuous harvest, sow new seeds every 3 weeks throughout the growing season. This staggered planting approach ensures fresh beans over an extended period.
Consistent Moisture: Beans thrive in evenly moist soil. Use a watering schedule to prevent the soil from drying out completely or becoming overly saturated. A layer of mulch can help retain moisture during hot weather.
Frequent Harvesting: Pick pods regularly once they reach the desired size. Frequent harvesting encourages the plant to produce more beans and prevents pods from becoming tough or stringy.
Pest Management
Aphids: These small insects can cluster on leaves and stems, sucking sap and weakening the plant. Use a strong stream of water to dislodge them or apply insecticidal soap if the infestation persists.
Ants: Ants often appear when aphids are present, as they feed on the honeydew aphids produce. Address the ant problem to reduce aphid activity.
Fungal Issues: Ensure proper air circulation by spacing plants adequately and avoiding overhead watering to reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
3. Bell Peppers: Sweet and Versatile
Bell peppers thrive in Florida’s heat when grown in containers, producing colorful, sweet fruits that are perfect for cooking or fresh eating. With proper care, they can yield abundantly even in challenging conditions.
Heat-Tolerant Varieties
‘California Wonder’: A classic variety known for its blocky, thick-walled fruits.
‘Big Bertha’: Produces extra-large, sweet peppers that mature quickly in warm climates.
Container Specs: Each bell pepper plant requires its own 3-5 gallon container to ensure sufficient root space and stability. Containers should have multiple drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
Care Guidelines
Calcium-Rich Fertilizer: Feed plants with a fertilizer high in calcium to prevent blossom end rot, a common issue with peppers. Look for fertilizers labeled as “tomato and vegetable” formulas with added calcium.
Fruit Support: As peppers grow and fruit begins to develop, their stems may need support. Use stakes, small cages, or plant ties to keep heavy branches upright.
Moisture Management: Water consistently to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid allowing the soil to dry out completely, as fluctuations in moisture can lead to stress and reduced fruit production.
Disease Prevention
Air Circulation: To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, place containers with adequate spacing to ensure airflow between plants. Avoid overcrowding and prune excess foliage if necessary.
Watering Technique: Water at the base of the plant rather than overhead to keep foliage dry, minimizing the risk of fungal infections.
Mulching: A thin layer of mulch on the soil surface can help maintain moisture and reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases splashing onto the plants.
4. Eggplants: Beautiful and Productive
Eggplants are a great choice for Florida container gardening, combining striking foliage with edible fruits that thrive in warm weather. These versatile vegetables are as decorative as they are delicious.
Florida-Friendly Options
‘Black Beauty’: A classic, large-fruited eggplant variety that performs well in Florida’s climate.
‘Chinese Bride’: A slender, pale-lavender variety that matures quickly and produces prolifically.
Growing Requirements
Container Size: Use a minimum 5-gallon container for each plant to provide ample root space.
Location: Place in a full sun area where plants can receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Soil: Use rich, well-draining potting soil mixed with compost or a slow-release fertilizer to ensure consistent nutrients.
Maintenance
Branch Support: Eggplants produce heavy fruits that can weigh down branches. Use stakes, tomato cages, or plant ties to prevent breakage.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Eggplants are sensitive to drought stress, which can reduce fruit size and quality.
Pest Watch: In dry conditions, spider mites can become a problem. Regularly mist plants or rinse the undersides of leaves to discourage infestations. Inspect for other common pests, like flea beetles, and treat promptly if found.
5. Loose-Leaf Lettuces: Crisp Greens for Florida’s Cool Seasons
Loose-leaf lettuces are a fast-growing, rewarding choice for Florida container gardeners. They thrive in the cooler months and offer continuous harvests with proper care.
Heat-Resistant Varieties
Black-seeded Simpson: A classic, tender variety known for its rapid growth.
Oak Leaf: Attractive, deeply lobed leaves that resist bolting in mild heat.
Mesclun Mix: A blend of baby greens that includes lettuces, arugula, and other cool-season favorites.
Red Sails: Adds a pop of color with its reddish-bronze leaves while tolerating mild heat.
Growing Success
Season: Plant from fall to spring and even through the winter for the best results in Florida’s climate.
Harvesting: Snip outer leaves regularly to encourage new growth and extend the life of the plant. For a larger yield, avoid cutting into the plant’s central crown.
Watering: Keep soil consistently moist to prevent stress, which can lead to bitter-tasting leaves.
Extended Season
Shade Cloth: Use lightweight shade cloth in early fall or late spring to reduce sun intensity and delay bolting as temperatures rise.
Container Placement: Position containers in a spot that receives morning sun and afternoon shade as the weather warms.
Mulching: Apply a thin layer of organic mulch to retain soil moisture and keep roots cool.
6. Bush Cucumbers: Crisp and Compact for Containers
Bush cucumbers are an excellent choice for Florida container gardens, offering prolific yields in a relatively small footprint. These compact varieties are ideal for growing in tight spaces with the right setup and care.
Compact Varieties
Spacemaster: A compact variety designed for containers, producing sweet, crisp fruits.
Bush Champion: Known for its high yield and adaptability to smaller spaces.
Container Setup
Size: Use a sturdy 5-gallon container to allow roots adequate space.
Trellis Support: Even bush varieties benefit from a small trellis or cage to keep vines off the ground and improve airflow.
Soil: Fill with nutrient-rich, well-draining potting soil mixed with compost.
Light: Position in full sun to encourage vigorous growth and fruiting.
Care Tips
Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy; cucumbers are particularly sensitive to drought stress.
Fertilization: Feed with a balanced vegetable fertilizer every 2-3 weeks during active growth.
Harvesting: Pick fruits regularly while they are still small to avoid bitterness and encourage continued production.
7. Spring Onions: Easy to Grow in Containers with Quick Harvests
Spring onions are a fantastic option for container gardening in Florida. Their compact growth and ability to regrow from root bulbs make them a great addition to any small garden or patio setup.
Container Varieties
White Lisbon: A popular variety, offering mild-flavored onions that are perfect for early harvests.
Evergreen Hardy: A cold-tolerant variety that can grow year-round in Florida’s mild winter climate.
Red Baron: Adds color to your container garden with its vibrant red stems and mild taste.
Growing Success
Container Size: Use a wide, shallow container, like a window box planter, to allow room for the bulbs to spread out. A 12-18 inch wide container works well.
Soil: Use light, well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. Spring onions don’t need deep soil but require good drainage for healthy roots.
Light: Ensure your container is placed in full sun for at least 6 hours a day. Onions thrive in sunny spots with plenty of warmth.
Regrowing: After harvesting, save the root bulbs and replant them to regrow new spring onions in the same container. This provides continuous harvests.
Pest Resistance
Spring onions are naturally resistant to most pests due to their strong scent. However, be mindful of soil-borne diseases and keep containers well-drained to prevent rot.
8. Radishes: Fast-Growing and Ideal for Your Florida Container Vegetable Garden
Radishes are an excellent choice for container gardens in Florida due to their rapid growth and ability to thrive in cooler months. They can be harvested in as little as 3 to 4 weeks, making them a great option for gardeners looking for a quick return on their efforts.
Container Requirements
Container Size: Use a wide, shallow container, at least 6 inches deep. Radishes have relatively shallow roots, so a container with plenty of surface area is ideal.
Soil: Plant in a rich, loose soil mix. Radishes prefer soil that is well-draining, airy, and slightly sandy to allow for easy root development. Avoid heavy, clay-based soils that can hinder root growth.
Drainage: Make sure the container has sufficient drainage holes to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot.
Growing Period
Planting Time: Radishes grow best in cooler weather, so plant from fall through late spring in Florida, avoiding the peak of the summer heat.
Growing Tips: Radishes thrive in temperatures between 55°F and 75°F (13°C to 24°C), making them ideal for Florida’s late fall and winter gardening seasons. Direct sow seeds into the container about 1/2 inch deep, and space them 1 to 2 inches apart.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the growing period, but avoid waterlogging the container.
Radishes are one of the easiest and most rewarding vegetables to grow in Florida containers. They don’t require much space, and with a little attention to soil and watering, you can enjoy a fresh harvest in just a few weeks.
9. Hot Peppers: Spicy and Thriving in Florida Containers
Hot peppers are perfect for container gardening in Florida, where the warm climate helps them grow abundantly. These plants not only provide a steady supply of spicy fruits but also bring vibrant color and texture to your garden.
Florida Favorites
‘Datil’: A Florida native known for its fiery heat and distinctive flavor, perfect for making hot sauces and salsas.
‘Bird’s Eye’: A small, super-hot pepper variety commonly used in Southeast Asian cooking.
‘Habanero’: Known for its intense heat and fruity flavor, the habanero pepper is popular in many spicy dishes.
Container Needs
Container Size: Choose a 3-gallon container at a minimum for each plant. Larger containers can accommodate the pepper’s root system as it grows.
Drainage: Ensure excellent drainage, as peppers do not like their roots sitting in water. Make sure the container has multiple drainage holes to prevent root rot.
Soil: Use a well-draining, rich potting mix with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Consider mixing in some compost for extra nutrients.
Care Tips
Sunlight: Hot peppers love the sun! Ensure they get at least 6-8 hours of full sun each day to thrive and produce fruit.
Watering: During the early stages of growth, keep the soil consistently moist. However, reduce watering once the fruits begin to ripen to avoid excess moisture, which can dilute the pepper’s heat and flavor.
Fertilization: Feed your peppers with a balanced fertilizer, but avoid excessive nitrogen, which can promote lush foliage at the expense of fruit production.
Hot peppers are a great addition to your Florida container garden, providing not only a bounty of heat-packed fruit but also a visually striking presence. With proper care, you’ll have fresh peppers ready for harvest throughout the growing season.
10. Culinary Herbs
Herbs are a fantastic addition to any container vegetable garden, especially in Florida’s climate. Not only do they thrive in pots, but they also provide fresh flavors for your kitchen. Here are some popular herbs to grow in containers:
Basil
Basil thrives in full sun and well-drained, fertile soil. It prefers warmer temperatures, making it a great choice for Florida. Pinch back flowers to encourage bushier growth and prevent it from becoming leggy.
Container Size: 1-3 gallon pots
Care Tips: Regular trimming promotes bushy growth. Keep it moist but not soggy. Basil can be sensitive to cold, so harvest before temperatures drop too much in the winter.
Oregano
Oregano loves the heat and does well in full sun. It requires little maintenance, as it tolerates dry conditions once established. However, it thrives with occasional watering and occasional fertilizing.
Container Size: 1-3 gallon pots
Care Tips: Oregano is a perennial herb that grows back year after year. Be sure to prune it regularly to prevent it from getting too leggy, and keep it in a sunny spot for the best flavor.
Rosemary
Rosemary loves full sun and well-drained soil. It is drought-tolerant once established, making it perfect for Florida’s heat. Plant in a container with excellent drainage to prevent root rot.
Container Size: 3-5 gallon pots
Care Tips: Trim regularly to prevent it from becoming too woody. If grown in pots, rosemary benefits from regular feeding with balanced fertilizer.
Cilantro
Cilantro grows quickly in cool weather, making it ideal for Florida’s fall and winter months. It prefers well-drained soil and full sun to part shade.
Container Size: 1-3 gallon pots
Care Tips: Cilantro bolts (goes to seed) quickly in hot weather, so it’s best to grow it in the cooler months. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy, and harvest leaves before it flowers to maximize flavor.
Marjoram
Marjoram prefers full sun and warm temperatures, similar to oregano. It thrives in containers with well-drained soil, which allows its delicate leaves to develop their signature sweet flavor.
Container Size: 1-3 gallon pots
Care Tips: Regular trimming helps marjoram stay compact and healthy. While it’s drought-tolerant once established, occasional watering helps maintain flavor. Protect it from excessive rain, which can cause mildew.
Sage
Sage is a hardy herb that loves full sun and thrives in well-drained soil. It can tolerate heat and drought once established, but it does best with only occasional watering. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep it (and rosemary) under cover during the summer rainy season to prevent disease.
Container Size: 3-5 gallon pots
Care Tips: Keep sage trimmed to prevent it from becoming leggy. You can also harvest it year-round, but avoid over-watering. Sage also appreciates a little protection during Florida’s occasional cold snaps.
These herbs are great for Florida container gardens, offering not only culinary benefits but also aromatic beauty. They work well in small pots and require minimal care once established, making them perfect for container gardening in Florida’s unique climate. Enjoy adding them to your garden and your meals.
Essential Care Tips for Success with Your Container Vegetable Garden
Growing vegetables in containers can be incredibly rewarding, but ensuring their health and productivity requires a bit of attention to detail. Here are essential care tips to help your Florida container vegetable garden thrive.
Watering Guidelines
Watering is one of the most important factors in container gardening, as plants in containers dry out faster than those in the ground. Proper watering techniques ensure your plants get the hydration they need without over-watering or underwatering.
Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry: Check the soil moisture regularly and water thoroughly to ensure the water reaches the root zone.
Water early morning or evening: Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day to prevent evaporation and reduce the risk of sunburn on your plants. Early morning or evening watering helps retain moisture longer.
Use moisture meters for accuracy: A moisture meter can help you determine the precise moisture level of the soil, helping you avoid guesswork.
Apply mulch to retain moisture: A layer of mulch on top of the soil helps to keep the soil cool and retains moisture. It also prevents weed growth, which can compete with your vegetables for water and nutrients.
Fertilization
Fertilizing your container vegetables is essential to provide the nutrients they need to grow strong and produce healthy yields. Container-grown plants often need more regular feeding than those grown in the ground due to the limited soil volume.
Opt for organic slow-release fertilizers that gradually release nutrients over time. This provides consistent feeding without overwhelming the plants with excess nutrients.
Feed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season: Most vegetables require a steady supply of nutrients throughout the growing season. Feeding every 4-6 weeks ensures your plants continue to grow strong.
Supplement with compost tea monthly: Compost tea is a nutrient-rich liquid made from compost and water. Applying it once a month provides your plants with beneficial microorganisms that help them thrive.
Watch for nutrient deficiency signs: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor fruit development can indicate nutrient deficiencies. Common deficiencies in container gardens include nitrogen, potassium, and calcium.
Pest Management
Pests can be a challenge in any garden, and container vegetable gardens are no exception. However, with the right strategies, you can manage pests without resorting to harmful chemicals.
Inspect plants weekly: Regularly check the tops and bottoms of leaves for signs of pests such as aphids, caterpillars, or spider mites. Early detection can help prevent major infestations.
Beneficial insects like ladybugs, predatory beetles, and parasitic wasps help control pest populations naturally. Planting flowers that attract these beneficial insects, such as marigolds and nasturtium, can improve pest management in your garden.
Look for insecticidal soaps to treat if necessary: If pests are becoming a problem, insecticidal soaps made from plant-based oils like neem or pyrethrin can help control them without harming beneficial insects or the environment.
You can also look to biopesticides such as Bacillus thuringiensis or Spinosad. Both comprise naturally occuring bacteria that are harmless to plants and humans, but will interfere with pest insects.
By following these care tips, you’ll set your container vegetable garden up for success. Regular attention to watering, fertilization, and pest management will help ensure a productive and healthy garden, even in the heat of Florida’s climate.
Harvesting and Storage Tips
Harvesting at the right time and storing your vegetables properly are crucial steps in maximizing the flavor, texture, and longevity of your crops. Here are some helpful tips to guide you through the process.
Optimal Harvesting
Harvesting vegetables at their peak ensures the best flavor and texture. Proper harvesting techniques also help preserve the plant and encourage more growth.
Harvest in early morning: Early morning is the best time to harvest as temperatures are cooler, and plants are fully hydrated. This minimizes stress on the plants and helps preserve freshness.
Pick vegetables when ripe but firm: Make sure vegetables are fully ripe but still firm. Overripe vegetables can lose flavor and deteriorate faster, while under-ripe vegetables won’t have developed their full flavor.
Use clean, sharp tools: A sharp knife or pair of scissors helps you make clean cuts, reducing the chance of damage to the plant. Always disinfect your tools before use to prevent disease spread.
Handle produce gently: Vegetables can bruise easily, so handle them with care. Gently support the vegetable while harvesting to avoid damaging it.
Storage Recommendations
Proper storage helps extend the life of your vegetables while maintaining their quality and nutritional value.
Most vegetables: 40-50°F: Most vegetables should be stored in a cool, dry place. A refrigerator or cool pantry works well for most, except for certain vegetables like tomatoes.
Tomatoes: room temperature: Tomatoes should be stored at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Refrigerating them can affect their flavor and texture, so only refrigerate them if they are very ripe and need to be used soon.
Leafy greens: wash, dry, refrigerate: For leafy greens, wash them gently in cool water, dry them thoroughly, and store them in the fridge. A salad spinner works well to remove excess water. To keep them fresh longer, store them in a sealed container or perforated bag.
Check stored produce regularly: Inspect stored vegetables regularly for signs of spoilage. Remove any produce that shows signs of rot or wilting to prevent it from affecting the rest of the batch.
By following these harvesting and storage tips, you can enjoy the fruits of your container vegetable garden for longer, maximizing both flavor and shelf life. Regular harvesting ensures that your plants continue to produce, and proper storage allows you to enjoy your homegrown vegetables even after they’ve been picked.
Ready to Get Growing Your Own Container Vegetable Garden?
Growing vegetables in containers is the perfect solution for Florida gardeners, and these 10 varieties are proven winners in our challenging climate.
Remember, success comes from choosing the right plants, providing proper care, and learning from each growing season. Start with one or two varieties and expand as you gain confidence.
For detailed information about when to plant each vegetable throughout the year, check out our comprehensive Florida Gardening Planner. This valuable resource will help you time your plantings perfectly for optimal harvests year-round.
Before you know it, you’ll be harvesting fresh, homegrown vegetables from your own Florida container garden!
We’re still in the wake of Hurricanes Helene and Milton, and from the brown tips of every leaf and defoliated branch of my entire late summer garden from salty storm surge, I’m thinking of going back to Florida container gardening. Container gardening is a good place to start if you’re new to the state, or new to gardening altogether.
As a long-time Floridian, I know the challenges and joys of gardening in our unique climate. From poor sandy soil to blistering sunlight, and from overnight surprise freezes to fall hurricanes, Florida keeps gardeners on their toes.
So, if you’ve been thinking of starting a garden, or like me, thinking of making more use of containers, let’s dive in and create your dream container garden together!
Why Container Gardening is Perfect for Florida
Container gardening offers flexibility for those with limited space, making it ideal for Florida. Whether you have a small patio, balcony, porch, lanai, or even just a corner of your yard, you can easily arrange pots and containers to fit the available space, giving you a versatile way to grow herbs, vegetables, and flowers.
Florida’s intense sun and heat can be tricky for plants, but with container gardening, you can move plants around to follow or avoid the sun as needed. Plus, using containers allows you to control water levels more easily, preventing plants from drying out or getting scorched.
Another benefit of container gardening in Florida is overcoming poor soil conditions. Many areas in Florida have sandy or nutrient-poor soil, which can make gardening difficult. But with containers, you can choose the perfect soil mix for your plants, ensuring they have the right nutrients and drainage.
Pest control is simpler, too. Containers keep your plants off the ground, making them less vulnerable to pests that usually live in the soil. Plus, it’s easier to spot, reach, and treat any infestations quickly.
And perhaps best of all, Florida’s climate offers the chance for year-round gardening. Container gardening lets you take full advantage of this, planting different crops and flowers throughout the year without worrying about seasonal limitations. It’s easy to cover a container or even move it into shelter during a hurricane or overnight frost.
Essential Supplies for Florida Container Gardening
Choosing the right supplies for Florida container gardening is key to helping your plants thrive in the Sunshine State’s unique climate.
First, selecting the right containers is essential. Look for pots that can withstand Florida’s intense heat and humidity. Ceramic, plastic, or fiberglass containers work well since they retain moisture better than terra cotta, which tends to dry out quickly in the heat. Make sure your containers have drainage holes to prevent water from pooling and causing root rot.
PROTIP
Protip: If you can, avoid using dark-colored containers in the summer, especially in South Florida. Those black planters are great in cooler climates but can bake the roots when exposed to the sun. I use a combination of both light and dark-colored containers for different times of the year and different purposes.
Next, using the best potting mix is important for container gardening in humid climates like Florida’s. Regular garden soil can compact and hold too much water in containers, so look for a light, well-draining mix specifically designed for pots. A mix with added perlite or vermiculite will help with aeration and drainage, keeping your plants happy even on the most humid days.
When it comes to feeding your plants, fertilizers and nutrients are a must. Since plants in containers have limited soil and nearly no access to local microbiology, they need a steady supply of nutrients to keep growing strong. Choose a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to mix into your potting soil, and supplement with liquid feed during the growing season to give your plants a boost.
Watering tools and moisture meters are also important. Florida’s heat means frequent watering, but it can be tricky to know when your plants need it. A moisture meter can help you avoid over- or under-watering by giving you an accurate reading of the soil’s moisture levels. Drip irrigation systems or self-watering pots are also great options to keep your plants consistently hydrated.
Finally, protecting your plants from Florida’s intense sun is essential. While many plants love sunlight, too much can cause sunburn or stress. If your pots are too heavy to move into a shadier spot, consider adding shade cloths, umbrellas, or moveable screens to provide relief during the hottest parts of the day.
You can even place more sun-tolerant specimens in front of more delicate ones to block the sun. I often plant scorch-sensitive plants in containers under banana circles for protection from both the sun and wind. This flexibility helps keep your container garden thriving year-round.
Choosing the Right Edible Plants for Florida Container Gardening
Container gardening opens up a world of possibilities for growing edibles on your Florida property, and with improvements in container sizes—like larger pots, grow bags, and raised beds—you can now grow an impressive variety of fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
Florida’s warm climate is ideal for growing a wide range of vegetables in containers. Leafy greens like kale, spinach, and arugula can thrive in the cooler months, while heat-tolerant vegetables like peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, and okra can grow year-round with proper care.
Root vegetables, such as carrots, radishes, and beets, also do well in deeper containers or grow bags. Even potatoes can be grown in specialized grow bags designed for easy harvesting.
I grow both Irish and sweet potatoes in old cardboard boxes.
Herbs are another great option for Florida container gardens. Basil, rosemary, thyme, mint, and parsley love the Florida warmth, and they grow beautifully in pots or small raised beds. It also helps keep them from sitting in soggy soil during our rainy season.
You can place herbs right by your kitchen door for easy access, making them a practical and attractive addition to your patio.
Fruit Trees in Containers
Thanks to larger containers, you’re no longer limited to small crops. Dwarf fruit trees, like citrus, figs, and avocados, can be grown in large pots or raised beds, producing fresh fruit right on your patio. Citrus trees, such as Meyer lemon, key lime, and calamondin, thrive in Florida’s sun. They’re also easy to maintain in containers. Figs, like ‘Petite Negra’ or ‘Brown Turkey,’ are also excellent choices for pots. You’ll get a good harvest in a compact space.
Berry bushes are another great addition to container gardens. Blueberries and strawberries all do well in pots, with blueberries especially suited to containers if you use the right acidic potting mix. For strawberries, consider hanging baskets or shallow containers. These allow the berries to spill over the sides, keeping them from rotting from contact with the soil and making them easier to harvest.
With grow bags and raised beds, you can easily grow larger crops that were once thought too big for containers. Squash, zucchini, cucumbers, and even pumpkins can flourish in these flexible setups, as long as you provide enough space for the vines to spread or use vertical supports like trellises. You’ll want at least 5-gallon size containers for these vegetable plants.
By combining a variety of these plants in containers, grow bags, or raised beds, you can create a thriving edible garden in small spaces, and without spending three years “fixing” the soil. You’ll get fresh produce year-round with the flexibility to move and adjust plants as needed for Florida’s unique climate.
Choosing Flowering Plants for Your Florida Patio Containers
Flowering plants bring vibrant color and life to Florida container gardening, and many thrive in pots and planters, making them perfect for small spaces or patios.
Besides, they’re your best defense against pest insects and best strategy for good pollinator for your edible garden.
For heat-tolerant flowers, try pentas, marigolds, or zinnias. These resilient plants easily handle Florida’s intense sun, providing bright, long-lasting blooms.
If you’re looking for something lower maintenance, bougainvillea and hibiscus both thrive in containers and add a beautiful splash of color.
For a mix of color and fragrance, consider jasmine or gardenia, both of which are well-suited to pots and add a sweet scent to your patio. Whether you prefer big, showy blooms or delicate flowers, there are plenty of container-friendly flowering plants to enhance your Florida garden.
Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Your Container Garden
Container gardening is a fun and flexible way to grow plants on your Florida patio. Whether you’re planting vegetables, flowers, or herbs, following these steps will help ensure your plants thrive.
1. Preparing Your Containers: Drainage and Soil Considerations
The first step is to make sure your containers are ready. Drainage is key—your pots need drainage holes to prevent water from pooling and causing root rot. If your containers don’t have holes, you can drill some in yourself.
Next, focus on the soil. Never use garden dirt in containers—it’s too dense and can hold too much moisture. Instead, choose a high-quality potting mix designed for containers. Look for a mix that’s light, airy, and well-draining, often with added perlite or vermiculite to improve aeration. If you’re planting edibles, consider adding organic compost or vermicompost to enrich the soil.
2. Proper Planting Techniques for Container Gardens
When you’re ready to plant, gently remove each plant from its nursery pot, taking care not to damage the roots. If the roots are tightly wound (root-bound), loosen them by gently teasing them apart with your fingers.
Plant each one at the same depth it was growing in its original container. Make sure not to plant too deep or leave roots exposed. When adding soil around the plant, lightly press it down to remove air pockets, but don’t pack it too tightly—it should still be loose enough for roots to spread easily.
3. Arranging Plants for Aesthetic Appeal and Optimal Growth
Arranging your plants is both about beauty and making sure they have enough space to grow. For aesthetic appeal, mix and match different heights, textures, and colors. Taller plants like tomatoes or eggplant should go in the back or center, with medium-height plants around them, and trailing plants like sweet potato vines or nasturtiums cascading over the edges.
When it comes to growth, make sure you choose plants with similar water, light, and soil needs to ensure they all thrive together. Be mindful of spacing—cramming too many plants into a container can restrict growth, so give each plant enough room to expand.
4. Initial Watering and Fertilizing Tips
After planting, give your container garden a thorough watering to help the soil settle and eliminate air pockets. Water until it runs out of the drainage holes, but don’t let your plants sit in standing water.
Since nutrients in container soil are quickly depleted, it’s a good idea to add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil at planting time. This will give your plants a steady supply of nutrients over the coming weeks. My favorite is Espoma Bio-Tone Starter Plus, which helps increase root growth.
FOR EVERYTHING YOU PLANT: Use Bio-tone Starter Plus fertilizer when planting / transplanting all plants.
You can also start using a liquid fertilizer about two to four weeks after planting for an extra boost or when they start to flower, especially for edibles.
5. Acclimatizing Plants to Their New Environment
Plants can experience shock when moved to a new environment, especially if they’re going from a nursery or indoors to your outdoor patio or deck. To prevent this, take some time to acclimatize your plants.
Start by placing your containers in a shaded spot for a few days before gradually introducing them to more sunlight. For sun-loving plants, move them into direct sun for short periods each day, increasing the time over about a week. This gradual process helps plants adjust to the heat and light without getting stressed or sunburned.
By following these steps, you’ll set your container garden up for success, creating a thriving, beautiful space on your Florida patio!
Maintaining Your Florida Container Garden
Keeping your Florida container garden healthy and thriving requires regular care, especially with the state’s hot, humid climate and occasional weather changes. Here’s how to maintain your container garden all year round.
1. Watering Schedule for Florida’s Hot and Humid Climate
Watering is one of the most important tasks for container gardening, especially in Florida’s heat. In hot, dry weather, containers can dry out quickly, so you’ll likely need to water daily during the late spring and summer months. The key is consistency—plants should be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Water in the morning whenever possible to help plants absorb moisture before the hottest part of the day and to prevent fungal issues from developing in the evening humidity.
Use a watering can with a gentle spout or drip irrigation to avoid washing away soil or damaging roots. Also, keep an eye on rain—while Florida has frequent downpours, containers often still need supplemental watering, as rain may not penetrate deeply enough into the container soil.
Because plants in containers have limited access to nutrients and soil biology that helps them absorb those nutrients, they require more frequent feeding than those planted in the ground. Start by mixing a slow-release fertilizer into the soil at planting time to provide nutrients over an extended period.
For ongoing care, use a balanced liquid fertilizer every two to four weeks, depending on the plant’s needs. You can also “top up” slow-release feed by working it gently into the top two or three inches of the soil.
Flowering plants may benefit from a bloom-boosting fertilizer with higher phosphorus, while leafy vegetables and herbs may thrive with a nitrogen-rich option. Be careful not to over-fertilize, as this can lead to salt buildup in the soil, which can damage plants. Flush the soil occasionally with water to clear out any excess salts, especially if you notice white crusts forming on the surface.
3. Pruning and Deadheading for Healthy Growth
Regular pruning and deadheading help keep your plants healthy and looking their best. Deadheading — removing spent flowers — encourages plants like marigolds, zinnias, and pentas to keep blooming throughout the season. It also prevents the plant from putting energy into producing seeds.
For fruiting plants like tomatoes or peppers, pruning can help improve airflow and sunlight exposure, reducing the risk of disease and encouraging stronger fruit production. Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves and thin out crowded areas to prevent plants from becoming overgrown. For herbs like basil or mint, frequent harvesting (by pinching off the tops) encourages bushier growth and prevents them from becoming leggy.
4. Pest and Disease Management in Container Gardens
Florida’s humid climate creates a perfect environment for pests and diseases, so proactive management is essential. Aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites are common pests that can infest container plants, so check your plants regularly for signs of trouble. Neem oil or insecticidal soap are safe, eco-friendly treatments that can keep these pests at bay. Although I admit that I haven’t found Neem to be anywhere as effective as Spinosad and Bt.
Fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew or root rot, can be a problem in Florida’s humidity. To prevent this, make sure your containers have good airflow and avoid overhead watering. If you notice leaves developing spots or powdery coatings, remove the affected parts and treat the plant with a fungicide if necessary.
Preparations containing “D747” (Bacillus amyloliquefaciens) is an effective fungal disease preventative. They’ve also been shown to improve plant nutrient uptake.
Those with copper sulfate are a bit more effective for treating plants with existing infections.
5. Seasonal Care: Protecting Plants from Occasional Cold Snaps
While Florida’s climate is warm most of the year, occasional cold snaps can surprise gardeners in the winter months. For tropical plants or sensitive edibles, it’s important to be prepared. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and be ready to move containers indoors or into a sheltered area if a frost is expected.
For larger containers that can’t be moved, you can use frost blankets, old sheets, or even bubble wrap to cover and insulate the plants overnight. Remember to uncover them in the morning to let the sunlight in. Grouping containers together can also help protect them, as they’ll share warmth.
By following these maintenance tips, you’ll keep your Florida container garden healthy and productive all year long, no matter what the weather brings!
Troubleshooting Common Container Gardening Issues in Florida
Container gardening in Florida offers many benefits, but it also comes with challenges, especially with the hot, humid climate. Here’s how to tackle some of the most common issues that can affect your container plants, along with step-by-step solutions.
1. Dealing with Root Rot and Overwatering
Root rot is a common issue in Florida’s humid climate and is often caused by overwatering or poor drainage in containers.
Check for proper drainage. Make sure your containers have enough drainage holes. If water isn’t draining well, drill more holes or repot the plant in a container with better drainage.
Remove affected plants from their containers. Gently pull out the plant and inspect the roots. Healthy roots should be white or light-colored, while rotting roots will be brown, mushy, and may smell bad.
Trim off any diseased roots using clean, sharp scissors or pruners. Disinfect your tools afterward to avoid spreading disease.
Repot the plant in fresh, well-draining potting mix. You can mix in perlite or sand to improve drainage and aeration.
Adjust your watering schedule. Only water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and avoid letting the pot sit in standing water.
2. Combating Nutrient Deficiencies in Container Plants
Plants in containers rely solely on the nutrients in their potting mix, which can become depleted quickly.
Identify the deficiency. Common signs include yellowing leaves (nitrogen deficiency), purplish stems or leaves (phosphorus deficiency), or pale new growth (iron deficiency).
Use a balanced liquid fertilizer, or one that’s tailored to the specific nutrient deficiency. For nitrogen, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen; for phosphorus or iron, choose a specialized product.
Follow the label instructions carefully to avoid over-fertilizing, which can harm your plants. Fertilize every two to four weeks during the growing season.
Consider adding organic compost to your potting mix to provide a slow-release source of nutrients.
3. Managing Salt Buildup in Containers
Salt buildup can occur from repeated fertilization, especially in Florida’s humid climate, leading to crusty white deposits on the soil surface or leaf tips turning brown.
Check for signs of salt buildup, such as white crusts on the soil or leaf edges browning.
Flush the container with fresh water. Water your plant thoroughly until the water runs out of the drainage holes. This helps wash excess salts out of the soil.
Avoid over-fertilizing, and consider using a slow-release fertilizer to minimize salt accumulation.
Repeat the flushing process every few weeks if you use tap water, as it can also contain salts and minerals that build up over time.
4. Addressing Heat Stress and Sunburn on Plants
Florida’s intense sun can cause heat stress or sunburn on sensitive plants, leading to wilting, scorched leaves, or stunted growth.
Move your containers to a shadier location during the hottest part of the day, especially during the summer. Partial shade or filtered light works well for many plants, especially in Florida.
Use shade cloth or patio umbrellas to protect plants from direct sunlight. This is especially helpful for delicate flowers or vegetables that can’t tolerate extreme heat.
Mulch the top of the soil in your containers to help retain moisture and cool the roots. Organic mulch like straw or bark works well.
Water more frequently, but ensure you aren’t overwatering. During extreme heat, plants may need water twice a day, but always check the soil moisture before watering.
5. Handling Pest Infestations Unique to Florida
Florida’s warm climate attracts a range of pests like aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites, which can be especially problematic for container gardens.
Inspect your plants regularly for signs of pests, such as yellowing leaves, small holes, or a sticky substance (honeydew) on the leaves.
For light infestations, use a strong stream of water to dislodge pests from the plants. Make sure to get the undersides of leaves, where pests often hide. This is particularly effective on aphids.
Apply insecticidal soap or organic pest treatment to treat more serious infestations. These options are safe for plants and non-toxic to beneficial insects.
Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting companion plants like dill, fennel, or marigolds. These insects naturally help control pest populations.
If aphids are the problem, make sure you treat for ants too. Ants will “farm” aphids, protecting them from predators in order to harvest the “dew” they produce. I use simple ant baits with sodium borate (Borax) and sugar to restore the balance in my garden.
Keep your plants healthy. Stressed plants are more susceptible to pests, so proper watering, fertilizing, and pruning can go a long way in preventing infestations.
By following these steps, you can troubleshoot and overcome the most common container gardening challenges, ensuring your Florida patio garden stays vibrant and healthy throughout the year.
Beware: Florida Container Gardening is a Gateway Drug
You’re now equipped with all the knowledge you need to create a stunning container garden on your Florida patio. Remember, gardening is a journey, not a destination.
You may soon find yourself dissatisfied by the limited amount of space they provide. Soon, you may be looking to add raised beds or even testing your soil as the first step to growing in-ground.
But remember, Florida container gardening can offer you the best guarantee of horticultural or agricultural success. In a state beset by storms, floods, sandy soil, and saline spray, don’t give up on your pots of tomatoes or flower planters, even if you decide to expand.
Your patio will soon become your favorite spot — a peaceful retreat where you can relax, surrounded by the beauty of nature. So grab those containers, pick your plants, and let’s get growing! Your Florida patio paradise awaits!
I’ve seen and heard many Florida gardeners complain that tomatoes just do not grow well here. It’s too hot, it’s too buggy, it’s too wet, or the alligators eat them all, or something.
That’s just not true.
Tomatoes grow wonderfully here in Florida. In fact, not a few miles away from my place is Ruskin, Florida — the home of “Ruskin Tomatoes,” which I recall were quite famous when I was a kid back in the late 70s.
I suspect they were simply the first fresh tomatoes available in U.S. grocery stores after the winter hungry gap. This was before all the imported foods from Mexico and South America flooded the market and spoiled us with year-round fresh produce in the middle of winter.
And this isn’t a digression — in fact, it’s the salient point.
The reason Ruskin Tomatoes were so early to the market was because we can grow tomatoes in the winter.
The flipside of this awesome boon is that we CAN’T grow them in the summer!
(Except for ONE single particular type of tomato — more on that below!)
Winter isn’t the gardener’s enemy in Florida — summer is. And it isn’t getting any better.
The storms and occasional hurricanes were bad enough, but now we’re dealing with heat indices in the triple digits. This is the new norm. It certainly isn’t the climate I moved into 32 years ago.
Why Gardeners Don’t Know When To Plant Tomatoes in Florida
The reason most gardeners think you can’t grow tomatoes in Florida (especially new ones and transplants from other states) is because:
They don’t understand our very weird climate cycles.
They haven’t learned our convoluted planting schedules.
They don’t really know how tomatoes evolved to grow.
Florida’s subtropical climate provides a uniquely annoying setting for gardening, particularly when it comes to growing tomatoes.
The state’s steamy temperatures, blistering sunshine, and long growing season may seem ideal for these popular plants. While summer is the usual time to grow tomatoes in most parts of the country, Florida summers are simply too much for tomatoes.
Tomatoes are a jungle creeper, evolving in cooler, dryer elevations of South America. They’re meant for mild and moist conditions under the forest canopy, not in the blistering sunlight.
If you live in Indiana or Ohio, you want to pump as much sunlight into these guys as you can during your short growing season. But, Florida is closer to the equator, with a higher UV rating. And increasing development and land clearing is turning the state into a seriously dangerous hot spot.
So, consider several factors when planning your planting schedule, especially given the recent updates to USDA hardiness zones in 2023, when most of the state moved up a growing zone.
Here’s a detailed look at these considerations:
Subtropical Climate
Florida’s subtropical climate means that it experiences mild winters and hot, humid summers. This climate allows for multiple growing seasons, making it possible to grow tomatoes both in the fall and late winter.
However, the extreme heat and humidity of summer can pose challenges, including increased pest and disease pressure, which can affect the health and productivity of tomato plants.
Updated USDA Hardiness Zones
In late 2023, the USDA updated its hardiness zones, which reflect the average annual minimum winter temperature. These updates have shifted some areas of Florida into warmer zones. For example, parts of central Florida have moved from Zone 9 to Zone 10.
Understanding these new zones is crucial for determining the best planting times and selecting appropriate tomato varieties that can thrive in the updated climate conditions.
Best Times to Plant Tomatoes in Florida
Now that you understand the backstory, here’s some actionable information you can use right now when planning your Florida garden.
Because right now is the best time to start your tomato seeds.
Fall: The Optimal Planting Season for Tomatoes in Florida
Fall is considered the best time to plant tomatoes in Florida. The weather conditions during this season are typically favorable, with cooler temperatures and lower humidity levels compared to the sweltering summer months.
This change in temperatures reduces the risk of diseases and pest infestations, which can wreak havoc on tomato plants.
There is an increased risk of hurricanes and tropical storms as the season progresses but fall and winter are usually mild enough to replant should my garden get washed out.
In fact, in Central and South Florida, you can pretty much plant out tomato starter plants any time between September and March. There can be a few chilly nights in late December and January, but if you avoid the two weeks of actual “winter,” you can just put starters in the ground at any time.
When to Start Florida Fall Tomatoes from Seed Indoors
Tomatoes will do best when planted out as well-developed seedlings of 6 or 8 weeks. For that reason, you want to start your fall tomatoes in mid-summer. You can start them out of doors, as long as they’re protected from heavy rainfall.
However — and this seems to be an increasingly annoying fact of Florida gardening life — understand that excessive heat can prevent your tomato seeds from germinating.
When I first started growing fall tomatoes in earnest — maybe 10 years ago — I didn’t have any trouble with outdoor germination in the summer as long as I could keep my seed trays covered and protected from washout by summer storms.
During the last four or five years, however, I’ve had to start them indoors in the summer to ensure good germination. Except for Everglades tomatoes (which are a distinct species), many a seedling tray has sat empty for weeks without a sprout. I’ve begun starting more seeds indoors as a result.
Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in June through July.
Zone 9: Start seeds indoors in July.
Zone 10: Start seeds indoors in July
Zone 11: Start seeds indoors in mid to late August.
When to Plant Fall Tomatoes Out into the Garden
Zone 8: Transplant seedlings in July or August
Zone 9: Transplant seedlings in August through September
Zone 10: Transplant seedlings in August through September
Zone 11: Transplant seedlings in September through November
Late Winter/ Early Spring: Another Ideal Planting Time
Winter vegetables for Florida
Most gardeners think of January and February as “late winter,” but for Florida gardeners, these are the first months for spring planting.
Late winter offers another excellent window for planting tomatoes in Florida. During this period, temperatures are gradually warming up, but they are still cool enough to prevent the rapid spread of pests and diseases.
The risk of frost is minimal, especially in southern parts of the state, allowing tomato plants to thrive as they move into spring.
Florida gardeners should prepare to cover their tomato plants from late December through the end of February. A simple frost cloth or old sheet is usually sufficient.
Honestly, this is the main reason I prefer shorter-statured determinate tomatoes to more ambitious indeterminate types. They’re just easier to cover during the occasional cold snap.
Late winter and spring are also the dry season in Florida, so you may need to water manually instead of depending on rain.
When to Start Spring Tomato Plants from Seed Indoors
Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in early January.
Zone 9: Start seeds indoors in late December through early January.
Zone 10: Start seeds indoors in late December through early January.
Zone 11: Start seeds indoors in December
When to Plant Spring Tomatoes Out into the Garden
Check temperatures before planting out and be sure to provide a cover when nights fall below 40°F.
Zone 8: Transplant seedlings in mid-February through early April.
Zone 9: Transplant seedlings in late January through February
Zone 10: Transplant seedlings in late January through February
Zone 11: Transplant seedlings in January through February
Best Varieties of Tomatoes to Grow in Florida
Floradade Tomatoes
Along with not understanding our very weird planting schedule, a lot of new Florida gardeners are choosing the wrong varieties.
Choosing the right variety of tomatoes is crucial for a successful harvest in Florida. Some of the best varieties include:
‘Sweet 100’: A prolific cherry tomato variety that produces an abundance of sweet, small fruits.
‘Floradade’: A large-fruited variety developed for Florida’s climate, resistant to cracking and splitting.
‘Marglobe’: A small, fast developing fruit that will outrun most pest and disease pressure.
‘Mortgage Lifter’: A beefsteak tomato that tops out at about 5 to 6 feet tall and stands up to heat.
‘Solar Fire’: Bred specifically for hot climates, this variety is heat-tolerant and resistant to common diseases.
‘Heatwave II’: Another heat-tolerant variety, perfect for Florida’s warm temperatures.
These are a small, currant-type tomato that thrives in Florida’s hot and humid conditions. It’s a distinct species that remains truer to its wild Peruvian roots. So, it’s a lot more resistant to pests and disease, particularly in hot weather.
You can even grow these tomatoes in the summer in Florida — they’re just that hardy.
Start Tomato Seeds Now
Now that it’s July, it’s time to start preparing for your fall Florida garden. Long-season annual vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant like a nice head start before planting out.
IFAS recommends planting them out in August through November (depending on where in the state you live). I’m in Central Florida, on the Gulf Coast, so I tend to procrastinate due to the flexibility of my planting times.
But the time to start tomato seeds for fall planting is right now.
You’ll find seeds for Florida-friendly tomato varieties in my Etsy shop. And don’t worry — I always include enough seeds in each pack for both the fall and late winter planting seasons.
So, remember, you CAN grow tomatoes in Florida. It’s just a matter of “right plant, right place,” and particularly for Florida gardeners… right time.
Now that Florida is facing its annual cold season, it’s time to think about frost protection. Even here in Zone 10a, the temperatures can drop overnight, even to freezing and below. For Southern gardeners whose passion is tropical gardening, temperatures below just 50°F can be devasting. So, what ARE the best greenhouse kits for Southern gardens and our unique needs?
Between blistering sunlight in summer, torrential downpours, and sudden sharp frosty nights, gardening in Florida — or anywhere along the Gulf Coast — can be quite a challenge. The best greenhouse kits for Southern gardens will provide protection from frosts, hot sun, and torrential downpours.
Currently, we’re enjoying a freak winter downpour. Since it’s following a long drought, I’m not going to complain. But so far, my fall tomato plants have already been fried, drowned, and tipped with cold damage. Granted, I have a love-hate relationship with tomatoes.
A few years ago, my husband promised to build me a greenhouse. He even described his elaborate plans to reuse some PVC pipe. That was in 2020, after we had already spent four months rushing outside during the rare bitter cold snap, teeth chattering, covering tomato plants with every spare sheet or blanket we could find.
Then, we “enjoyed” the freak three-night freeze of 2022, and I knew it was time to invest in a real greenhouse, even if I didn’t have much of a budget.
What was the best greenhouse I could find without breaking the bank?
While I have three growing seasons here, it seems that my fall garden plants just get started producing in the winter when we suddenly get a cold snap.
It’s the same with the spring — they just get established and start to bloom when a blistering hot day puts an end to progress.
I knew that I really COULD grow fool all year round if I had the right infrastructure. It’s entirely possible to grow all year long, if you have one of the best greenhouse kits for extending the season.
For example, it’s still too hot and humid in September to grow large tomato varieties, and they don’t really get going until October. That leaves them vulnerable in late December and January.
And while most people use their greenhouse in the winter, I decided that I could also use a greenhouse kit in the summer by adding a shade cloth to keep out the worst of the afternoon sun.
I lucked into the best buy I could make when I discovered the King Bird greenhouse that included a sprinkler kit for cooling off during the hot summer.
Wouldn’t it be great to have a shade house in place to save time (and sunburn)?
Most
gardeners in the South just take the summer off. But the best greenhouse kit
could be quickly modified with some shade cloth.
Best Greenhouse Kits to Consider
I’m sold on my new King Bird greenhouse, but you may have other needs, less space, or even more budget. Here’s a shortlist to work from. I’ve also added a few others that look like likely options for a wide range of gardeners.
And of course, my top recommendation is:
1. KING BIRD Upgraded 15×6.6×6.6FT Large Walk-in Greenhouse
【Watering Greenhouse】comes with a 15-ft water hose and irrigation kit that lets you water your plants easily and efficiently. You can adjust the water mist size and direction to suit your needs…
【Steady Greenhouse】Less worry about strong winds or heavy snow damaging your greenhouse. KING BIRD greenhouse is built with galvanized steel, 3 top crossbars, 10 vertical bottom poles, and 2…
【Ventilated Greenhouse】Enjoy two entrances with PE and zippered screen doors that allow you to access your plants from both sides. You can also roll up the screen windows and use the water…
【Warm Greenhouse】The PE grid cover of KING BIRD greenhouse is specially designed to resist UV rays and extend its lifespan. It is also waterproof, odorless, and fits snugly over the frame to keep…
【Trustful Greenhouse】KING BIRD always values customers’ experience the most. All KING BIRD greenhouse kits are provided with a 1-year warranty or more. Feel free to contact KING BIRD Team when you…
This greenhouse is GINORMOUS, and the durable white PE cover keeps it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
This model has stood up to two named Florida storms as well as some freakishly late rain and windstorms over this winter.
2. King Bird Upgraded 10×6.6×6.6 Walk-in Greenhouse
【Watering Greenhouse】comes with a 15-ft water hose and irrigation kit that lets you water your plants easily and…
If you don’t have 15 feet to spare, don’t hesitate to check out this smaller version, with the same high quality and special features as the larger version.
Constructed with 12 wired shelves – 6 on each side, and measures 56″W x 56″D x 77″H, which makes space for all your…
Strong frame – built with heavy-duty powder coated steel. Include 4 ropes and 4 stakes to secure the greenhouse and…
Place the greenhouse indoor inside your garage during the cold winter or outside with no PVC cover during the hot…
This GoSunny model is one of the first portable greenhouse kits I’ve used in my current location, and it’s pretty darn good for the price.
This greenhouse
is 56 inches wide by 56 inches deep, and it stands 77 inches tall. This means
you have plenty of room to move around inside.
The powder-coated
metal tubing frame is 16mm and the reinforced polyurethane cover is 0.4mm thick,
so it’s durable and offers excellent protection from any cold spells.
It
features straps to hold the zippered door open to allow ventilation, as well as
two side windows with mesh.
This greenhouse kit comes with nail stakes and tie-downs to keep your greenhouse in place under windy conditions.
Inside, it offers 12 built-in wire shelves. You can also adjust them to your collection. And the whole assembly offers additional headroom for heat lamps or fans.
Unfortunately, it may not stand long against the Florida heat and humidity, but it’s a bargain for protecting plants against harsh sun, cold nights, and sudden downpours.
EASY SETUP: Innovative easy setup technology allows ONE PERSON to set up this greenhouse in seconds. EAGLE PEAK pop-up greenhouse is ready straight…
STABLE AND STURDY: With a steel-ceiling roof, the construction of this greenhouse is rigid and durable enough to endure most outdoor conditions with…
SPACE TO WORK: Enjoy freedom of movement with the spacious walk-in 8×6 ft greenhouse. Shelving fits comfortably in it (Please search ASIN: B08ZJ8H558…
When I purchased my King Bird, I also purchased two of these pop-up greenhouses for emergency use. They were on sale at the time, and I couldn’t resist the price.
These are especially useful for covering in-ground climbing plants like cordoned tomatoes or cucumbers. I purchased them for hanging houseplants and in the hope that they would be easy to put up by myself when I sold plants at local farmer’s markets.
It turned out they were a bit too heavy for the purpose, but one has made a most excellent shade house. The structure is easily sturdy enough to hold many hanging plants for display. And it’s shady enough for Monstera and pothos on poles, too.
Quality construction and materials to last many seasons
Heavy duty reinforced polyethylene cover
If you don’t have much space and are looking for apartment patio greenhouse kits, this Gardman model provides roomy shelves and protection from the co
This is the perfect size for planting a few starts for spring.
It measures
63 inches high and is tall enough for four shelves of seed trays. It’s 18
inches deep and also extra wide, at 47 inches.
It has
a sturdy, modular steel tubing frame that will hold up to the elements. You can
also snap it together without any tools.
The reinforced
polyurethane cover has a zipper front and each shelf is about 14 inches high.
So, you can even add a heat lamp for extra warmth.
Gardman is a UK company that sources its materials responsibly. They have a 27-year history and specialize in garden décor, lighting, and bird feeders.
Suitable Size:The new Walk-in greenhouse size: 10ft x 5ft x 7ft. 6 shelves height 15.7”, width 11”; net size…
Excellent Quanlity:The cover is water resistant, UV protected thick polyethylene (PE) which is non toxic and odorless,…
Useful design: Our greenhouse has 3 levels, and 6 shelves. Roll up zip doors at both ends for easy access, ventilation…
If you’re looking for lean-to greenhouse kits, check out this affordable and durable Strong Camel model. You can place it against any exterior wall for stability and reflected heat.
The CO-Z greenhouse is 10 feet long, 5 feet deep, and a generous 7 feet tall. It creates a warm little nest for your delicate plants on cold winter nights.
You can also protect your delicate seedlings from being washed out. The UV protection and green checking also prevent scorching in the dry spring heat.
The door zips open and rolls up to stay out of the way when you’re working and to allow in plenty of fresh air on warm days.
It also comes with wire shelving to make the most of the space.
It boasts a tubular steel frame and UV-protected polyethylene cover. You’ll also get guy lines, ground nails, and a screw kit for securing it to your exterior wall.
7. Outsunny 15′ x 7′ x 7′ Walk-in Tunnel Hoop Greenhouse
Walk-In Hoop Greenhouse Kit: This walk-in greenhouse gives you a personal plant nursery for your garden. Control heat,…
Look in or Let Air Out: Control the heat and humidity in your outdoor greenhouse by making use of the eight…
Heavy-Duty, Outdoor Ready: Our backyard greenhouse protects plants from wind, rain, and cold with a 140 GSM PE cover, a…
For those focused on high production, Outsunny offers an affordable tunnel greenhouse that offers professional size protection for the backyard grower.
This hoop house is great for year-round growing and urban farming. It’s 15 feet long by 7 feet wide and stands 7 feet tall when assembled. So, you can add heaters or fans for year-round use.
The reinforced galvanized steel tube frame is rust-resistant, and the 140 GSM polyethylene cover is reinforced with mesh. This also diffuses harsh sunlight in the summer season and allows 85% of sunlight in.
This makes it the perfect greenhouse for Florida, where the sun can defy even the chill of winter. It also provides much needed shade for spring and summer growing.
Mesh Zipper Door & 6 Vents – The front door of the greenhouse is equipped with 1 screen door to keep small unwanted…
Powder-Coated Steel Frame – Made of reinforced powder-coated steel, there’s less worry about rust which makes the whole…
Extended Cover – The extra skirt part of the cover at the bottom of the greenhouse makes it more airtight and secure:…
If you have a long and narrow yard, this Quictent model might be the best greenhouse kit for your garden.
It’s 12 feet long and 7 feet wide and measures 7 feet high.
The powder-coated steel frame offers extra support from middle rails and the polyethylene cover is extra long for attachment to the ground for stability.
It’s easy to assemble with Velcro straps and plenty of stakes to hold it down. There are doors on either end as well as six screened vents on the side for superior ventilation.
Quictent is also a Texas manufacturer with an A+ BBB rating, and they offer camping tents as well.
TWO PANEL TYPES PROVIDE ULTIMATE BALANCED GROWING CONDITIONS – Virtually unbreakable twin-wall polycarbonate roof panels…
STURDY THOUGHTFUL CONSTRUCTION WILL LAST A LIFETIME – Chosen by Better Homes and Gardens as the Best Overall Greenhouse…
STEP-BY-STEP DIY INSTRUCTIONS DESIGNED FOR HOMEOWNER INSTALLATION – Easy installation accomplished with sliding panels’…
If you’re in the market for a more permanent solution, Palram offers one of the highest reputations with buyers for greenhouse kits. While only measuring 6×4 feet, it’s a gorgeous specimen that will surely become the shining centerpiece in an ornamental garden.
It features twin-wall polycarbonate roof panels to protect plants from strong sunlight and an aluminum frame. The wall and ceiling panels are 4mm transparent polycarbonate.
【Walk-in Spacious Greenhouse】The ideal growing environment is large enough for you to plant numbers of plants,…
【Heavy-duty & Durable Frame】The 4mm thick polycarbonate board can withstand outdoor temperature from -20℃ to 70…
【Great Vents & Slide Doors】The greenhouse have 1 window vents are designed with 5 adjustable angles for proper air…
If you need more space for less money and are willing to give a newcomer a go, this 6×8 polycarbonate greenhouse has all the features of more established brands without the price tag.
It offers adjustable vents for reducing summer heat build-up and protects from cold with 4mm polycarbonate panels.
11. HOWE 8x14x7.5 FT Polycarbonate Greenhouse
No products found.
Add a professional-grade polycarbonate greenhouse for about half the cost by doing your own installation.
Protect a whole season’s worth of starter plants and store your garden equipment securely out of the elements.
Features double sliding doors and four vents for temperature control. The 6mm polycarbonate panels do double duty protecting your delicate plants from the cold, heat, and heavy rains.
Get a high-quality greenhouse and outdoor living space in one.
Using a Greenhouse in Florida and Other Hot Climate Zones
A Jump on Spring
I normally start my spring seeds in December. But quite frankly, I don’t have enough room for everything if we get a cold night. Last year, I moved dozens of seedlings inside when the temperatures plummeted. I lost a few trays because I foolishly stacked them and they crushed each other.
But a
greenhouse means I’ll have plenty of room to keep my starts toasty and safe all
winter long. I may even get some spring tomatoes this year.
Variety
is the Spice of Life
Speaking of tomatoes, because I live in an area of the country that suffers from terrible heat and humidity, I have trouble growing big tomato varieties. They just suffer under the sun long before they produce.
So, I’ve
been focusing on early maturing varieties and cherry tomatoes – which means I
don’t get to enjoy the wide variety of heirloom vegetables I want to grow.
Choosing the Best Greenhouse for Winter
Too often, I’ll jump into buying something for my garden on a whim. Just ask me about all those soaker hoses I bought last month.
But in this case, I’m doing my research and due diligence before making a big purchase that will take up a lot of yard space.
Here are some things to think about before choosing a greenhouse.
Code Violations
In some neighborhoods or towns, you may need to get a permit. Usually, this will be for a permanent structure, perhaps with an electrical line or water access. You probably won’t need one for a small portable greenhouse or hoop house.
But do check with your local planning commission about what type of structures require a permit.
And don’t forget to check with your HOA or neighborhood association to make sure it doesn’t violate their requirements.
Allocating
Space
Do
you have enough room on your property for a greenhouse? Sometimes, you’ll find
that the best place to put it for maximum efficiency is smack-dab in the middle
of your back yard.
You’ll want it in the sunshine for the winter, but remember that placement under a tree canopy can help protect plants from a hard freeze, too.
Make
the most of any southern exposure available to help keep your greenhouse warm. Also,
placing your greenhouse near a light-painted wall with southern exposure can be
the warmest spot in the yard. Buildings can reflect sunlight onto nearby plants
as well as absorb heat during the day and release it over the night.
Place your greenhouse so it gets at least six hours of sunshine during the day. And remember, it’s also a good time to trim trees and bushes during their dormant periods.
Accessibility
You’ll also want to place your greenhouse where it’s easy to access from your home. Especially if it gets cold, you’re more likely to keep an eye on things if you don’t have to freeze to do so.
You may also want access to the outdoor hose bibb or GFCI outlet. Adding a portable electric heater turns even a cheap model into one of the best greenhouse kits for growing vegetables in the winter.
Knowing
where you’re going to place it will help you narrow down all the possible
choices to one that will work best in your garden.
Features
to Look for in the Best Greenhouse Kit
Greenhouse kits come in a wide range of price points and durability options. You can find inexpensive models that hold a few shelves of seedlings for very little money. You can also find models the size of a small family bungalow, with sturdy metal frames.
So,
think of what features you might need to get started.
How
Big?
Last
year, I only set up a few seed trays to get my spring garden started. So, I
really only needed an economy model.
If you’re just getting a jump on spring starters for early vegetables, a smaller indoor/outdoor model will probably be one of the best greenhouse kits for you.
However, if you’re growing a significant number of plants and rely on them to feed your family, you may want to look at a more sizeable model. You’ll find hoop houses provide plenty of room for low cost.
If you need to overwinter delicate full-grown plants, you may want to look for height in a greenhouse as well as square footage. Check out models that offer shelving systems and hanging hooks.
And if you want to make a statement in your landscape design, take a look at some of the best greenhouse kits from makers like Grandio and Palram. While they do require some DIY skills to assemble, they’re much less expensive than hiring a contractor to build one.
Construction
Materials
Portable greenhouses use plastic sheeting to protect your plants from the elements. The thickness can vary, but most provide adequate protection from winter chills in Zones 8 to 11.
More durable greenhouse kits use polycarbonate sheets, which are clear plastic, but sturdy like acrylic sheeting.
Poly-Sheeting
Greenhouses
Most portable and economy greenhouse kits include polyethylene plastic sheeting and a frame made of aluminum, steel, or PVC piping.
The polyethylene
plastic sheeting in kits usually runs between 2 to 6 mils thick. Although it
may not last more than two or three years, you can also patch or even replace it
should it be required.
Polycarbonate Greenhouses
The
best greenhouse kits feature polycarbonate plastic panels in an aluminum frame.
While they’re more expensive, they’re suitable for permanent installation.
However, they’re also harder to assemble. Especially if you’re planning on adding electricity and water to your greenhouse.
But
if you have the DIY skills, they can really make a statement in your
landscaping. Many are quite charming and attractive.
Commercial
Greenhouse Kits
At one point in my budding horticultural career, I considered starting a hobbyist nursery. Then I discovered that you needed an inspection to sell plants to other gardeners. The good news was that I didn’t need one to sell produce.
A commercial size hoop house is just the thing if you have the room or are thinking of expanding into an urban farm.
Remember to check with your local extension office about any laws or regulations in place for your state. But who knows, you may have discovered the side gig that opens up a whole new career.
Greenhouse DIY
If you’re looking for a build your own greenhouse kit, you’ll find plenty of plans available online. All it takes is a few DIY skills and access to your local home improvement center.
And depending on your needs and ambition, you can build something as simple a hoop house or something as intricate and challenging as a solar-heated grow hut.
Walden Labs offers free plans online. I’ve been saving soda bottles for their Recycled Model for about a year now.
And if you’re looking for a fun craft, this small greenhouse DIY uses CD cases to create a cloche for a treasured favorite.
Gimme
Shelter
I’m still not sure which one I’m going to opt for, but something tells me that I’m picking out my own Christmas present this year.
Either
way, the best greenhouse kits are the ones you can afford and the ones you can
use.
It may seem odd to get a greenhouse when you live in Florida and only get a few cold nights a year. But it will be nice knowing that I won’t have to stumble around in the dark, covering up whatever I can manage to see with whatever I can manage to find.
Do you have a greenhouse or hoop house? How did you finally settle on what kind to buy? Share your greenhouse tips in the comments.
As a gardener in Florida, I’ve learned that our winters provide a unique setting for growing a variety of plants. You really can grow lettuce in Florida, as long as you grow it in winter.
Lettuce loves cool weather and will bolt and go to seed quickly in the heat. Since it starts getting really hot in May, that means the window to grow lettuce in Florida remains between September to April. Even then, there are a few tricks you’ll need to know to be successful.
Understanding Winter Climate in Florida
When we talk about gardening in Florida during the winter, it’s important to first understand the unique climatic conditions of the region. The Gulf States, from Florida to Eastern Texas, sit firmly in Zones 9 through 11. They have mild winters and enjoy lower humidity than the rest of the year.
Despite the milder temperatures, winter also brings shorter daylight hours. Lettuce generally requires around 6 hours of sunlight per day. In winter, the sun is lower in the sky, and the days are shorter, so selecting a planting site with maximum light exposure is crucial.
Winters in Florida are drier and less humid than the summer months, which is beneficial for lettuce, as high humidity can encourage fungal diseases. However, this also means you need to be more vigilant about watering.
Choosing the Best Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Florida
A big part of successfully growing lettuce in Florida is choosing the right varieties. You may have heard that it’s the one time of year you can grow crispheads, but my experience in Zone 10A says, “Don’t bother.”
Lettuces can be broadly categorized into four types: crisphead, butterhead, romaine, and loose leaf. In Florida, crisphead lettuces like iceberg generally don’t perform as well due to their preference for cooler, more consistent temperatures.
Yes, it may get below freezing, and yes, it’s generally cooler in the winter. But you see, when it’s not freezing, the temperature is still likely to jump above 80°F.
Instead, focus on butterhead, romaine, and loose-leaf varieties, which are more adaptable to those surprise heatwaves.
Heading Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Florida
Jericho Romain lettuce in the garden
Some “heading” lettuce varieties to look for:
Jericho Romaine
A robust variety known for its heat tolerance. Jericho produces dense, crisp leaves and is ideal for salads and wraps. This variety, developed in Israel, is very heat-tolerant, and I’ve even been able to keep it growing through to June.
You can find Jericho Romaine lettuce seeds in my shop.
Manoa
Similar to butterhead lettuce, Manoa is a heat-tolerant variety with a soft texture and sweet flavor, perfect for delicate salads. I’ve grown this one for several years but am still mastering the optimum germination temperatures.
Red Cross
This butterhead variety has beautiful, red-tinted leaves and a tender, mild flavor. It adds a pop of color to any salad. I haven’t tried this one yet, but the San Deigo Summer Lettuce program recommends it.
Nevada
Boasting good heat resistance, Nevada has crisp, green leaves that form a loose head. It’s known for its durability in fluctuating temperatures.
Paradai
A romaine type, Paradai is prized for its crunchy texture and resistance to bolting in warmer weather.
Parris Island
A classic romaine with long, dark green leaves, this variety is valued for its crisp texture and exceptional flavor.
Little Gem
A smaller romaine type, Little Gem is ideal for limited space. It has a sweet flavor and a compact, crunchy head.
Anuenue
Another butterhead type, Anuenue is known for its heat tolerance and resistance to bolting, producing soft, tender leaves.
Loose Leaf Lettuces to Grow in Florida
Loose leaf lettuce varieties are truly the easiest when you’re trying to grow lettuce in Florida. Best of all, you can harvest individual leaves as they mature, ensuring several harvests throughout fall and winter.
Mesclun Mix
Mesclun mix is generally a dealer’s choice of tender leaf lettuces and brassicas that provide a distinct and delicious salad blend.
You can find Mesclun Mix lettuce seed mix in my shop.
Black-Seeded Simpson
One of the most popular loose-leaf varieties, it produces light green, curly leaves with a delicate flavor. It’s a fast grower and very resilient. I’ve grown this one for years, and it’s recommended by the IFAS Florida Ag page.
Red Sails
This variety features attractive, ruffled, red-tinted leaves. It’s not only heat tolerant but also rich in nutrients and flavor.
Salad Bowl
As a cut-and-come-again variety, Salad Bowl produces loose, green, crinkly leaves that are both tender and flavorful. I’ve grown several “salad bowl” varieties in containers with much success, harvesting from October through April on a “cut and come again” basis.
Bronze Oakleaf
Known for its bronze-red leaves that resemble oak leaves, this variety offers a sweet taste and a pleasing texture. Most of the “oak leaf” type leaf lettuces will grow well in Florida winters.
Starting your lettuce seeds in cell blocks or seed trays allows for better control over the growing conditions. Even heat-tolerant lettuce varieties struggle to germinate at temperatures above 80°F, and my struggles with the delicate and sweet Manoa lettuce is a testament to that.
Temperature Control
It’s easier to manage the temperature for seed germination in controlled environments. Lettuce seeds prefer cooler temperatures for germination and can struggle in the heat, making indoor starting ideal.
Longer Harvest
Starting seeds in trays can lead to an earlier and longer harvest seaon by allowing you to begin the growing process indoors while waiting for outdoor conditions to become suitable. That way, you can sow lettuce seeds indoors during the boiling heat of August or the frigid nights of December.
Flexibility
Trays allow you to strategically plan your garden layout and maximize yield by choosing where and when to transplant seedlings. I frequently dot my winter garden beds with Jericho Romaine heads whenever and wherever space becomes available.
Here’s a detailed guide on how to successfully start lettuce seeds in cell blocks or trays:
You’ll need clean cell trays or small soil blocks. Use a light seed-starting mix that won’t offer too much resistance to delicate roots.
Make soil blocks or fill cell trays with your well-moistened seed mix.
Plant three seeds per block or 4 to 5 if using older seeds.
Cover lightly with soil and press down to increase seeds’ contact with soil.
Use a mister to keep soil moist or bottom-water as required.
Maintain a soil temperature of around 60-70°F.
Seedlings will need plenty of light once they germinate. You can grow them outside in Florida if temperatures are on-point. If it gets above 80°F or below 50°F, consider moving them indoors near a window or into a greenhouse.
If necessary, you can purchase inexpensive grow lights. The new LED technologies for grow lights provide full spectrum at low initial cost, reduced electrical usage, and thankfully – no added heat load to your home.
Lettuce seeds typically germinate within 7-10 days. Monitor the moisture level and temperature regularly.
Check the water daily. If seedlings become leggy (tall and thin), they need more light.
Thin back to one seedling per cell. You can try to separate them and plant them individually, but I have found they’re really just too delicate. Best to thin the herd and let the strongest one take over.
Gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions over a week. Start by placing them outside in a shady area for part of the day and then progressively increase their time outdoors.
Preparing the Garden
Florida soil is known for being sandy, which is nice for working but devoid of organic matter and nutrients. I try to layer some compost down on any planting bed twice a year to improve the soil.
Once weeds have been removed, you can transplant the seedlings into your prepared garden bed. Provide about 8” to 10” for each plant in order to provide enough space to grow.
Transplanting
Transplant lettuce seedlings to the garden after the last heat wave of September or anytime throughout winter until April.
Late December through late January has the highest chance of frost, so you may choose to avoid those weeks for planting out.
Ongoing Care to Grow Lettuce in Florida
Because Florida EATS compost, you may want to side-dress your lettuce with compost or composted manure. A dose of fish emulsion usually provides a boost in the middle of the growing season, as well.
The winter months also offer less rainfall. To add insult to injury, it’s also incredibly windy. That means you’ll need to stay on top of irrigation to keep your lettuce plants thriving.
Lettuce can handle light frosts, but temperatures below freezing (32°F or 0°C) for long periods can damage the plants.
In Florida, freezes are rare, but it’s good to be prepared. Use row covers or even old sheets or beach towels to cover them during a freeze warning.
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Growing Lettuce in Florida in Containers
Mesclun Mix Lettuce in the Garden
That sounds like a lot of work to me, and for the most part, I only grow a little heading lettuce here and there in the garden. I may stick some Jericho seedlings in between other plants. Once my fall determinate tomatoes crop, I sometimes plant some lettuce under them.
For a regular supply of homegrown lettuce, though, I use containers instead.
I’ve found that shallow planters (pick them up cheap at the dollar store) with some drainage holes added, make excellent garden planters for cut and come again leaf lettuce.
This offers several advantages:
Temperature Control
I can start seeds in August and keep them indoors or in the shade, moving the containers easily to where they’re needed.
Likewise, as the temperatures cool, I can move the planters into a sunnier spot in the garden.
Succession Timing
After several years of planting this way, I know how many containers to plant per week for my family. I plant five large trays (or seven smaller ones) per week for four weeks.
As the first ones mature, I sow more in succession. This means that I have a regular supply of fresh, young, tender lettuce at any given time.
I don’t have to deal with lettuce growing, maturing, and becoming bitter because we can’t eat it fast enough.
Not that the chickens aren’t willing to get rid of it for me.
Cheaper, Easier, and Less Work
Since I’m growing in containers, I only have to ensure moisture and fertility for a limited amount of soil. Lettuce is a shallow-rooted planted. It’s a hungry plant, because it doesn’t have deep roots. It needs all it’s moisture and nutrition close to the surface.
It’s a heck of a lot cheaper to feed and water a bunch of shallow containers than vast swathes of garden soil. Besides, growing my quick-maturing lettuce in containers means more room in the garden for broccoli and cabbages.
Growing Lettuce in Containers
Find shallow garden planters or other containers to use. You can use transparent bins (like on Roots and Refuge Farm) or cheap garden planters from the dollar store.
Last year, I found a clearance sale on some cubby bins from Dollar General and drilled some holes in the bottom.
Planting
Fill the container with 4” to 6” of good, rich potting soil.
Add some slow-release organic fertilizer to save time and trouble. Most are good for three to four months of growing.
Lightly scatter your loose-leaf lettuce seeds on top and then sprinkle the top with a light layer of more soil.
Press down with your hands to increase seed contact with the soil.
Mist well and place in a temperate spot to germinate.
Harvesting
As plants germinate and mature, harvest individual leaves for eating by pinching them near the ground.
Allow smaller leaves to grow and harvest later.
Planting and harvesting in succession will result in a season-long harvest of fresh salad greens.
Winter isn’t just the best time to grow lettuce in Florida, it may actually be the ONLY time you can grow it with any success in our hot, humid climate.
Whether you grow in the ground or in containers, adding fresh, homegrown salads to your winter menu is sure to elevate your cooking and improve nutrition for you and your family.
If you’ve been paying attention to the weather forecast, it’s likely that the last thing on your mind is what to plant in July in Florida. The heat indexes have easily been in the triple digits, and the rainfall reports are way down.
The good news is that if you’re just as addicted to gardening as I am, there are a few things you can do to feed that urge, even in all this heat.
That’s right, Florida gardeners — it’s July! It’s not time to get back into the garden quite yet, but it IS time to start collecting supplies and sowing seeds indoors and under cover.
It’s time to get ready for the fall garden. Start stocking up on your favorite seeds and get cracking. It’s go time.
It’s Time to Get Seeding!
We had a ridiculously cold winter and a frighteningly dry spring. It’s even been a dry summer.
While you may have given up on your tomatoes months ago, you can certainly try again now.
While you can grow nearly anything between September and December in Florida (at least Central and South Florida), the time to start long-season crops is right now.
Tomato Time
Start tomato seeds in mid-July through Mid August in order to plant out into the garden or containers in September.
You’ll want to be sure that the temperatures have dropped low enough that tomatoes can flower and form fruit, so keep an eye on the weather.
The best way to be ready to have well-developed plants to add to the garden as early as feasible is to start them indoors in July.
You can grow your seedlings under cover and pot them up as they grow for up to three months if necessary. In containers, you can better control their exposure to scalding sun and downpouring rains.
We’ll be selling a new line of vegetable starters suited for Florida gardens in our nursery. If you’re not nearby, we invite you to check out our seeds for sale. We’ve curated the best varieties for the hot & humid Southeastern states, Gulf Coast region, and blistering hot Southwest garden.
And all of our tomato seeds come with a free pack of companion French Marigolds, because we know the tragedy that is root knot nematodes.
Peppers
Everyone loves peppers because they’re easy to grow, come in a wide variety of colors, and have different flavor profiles for a range worldwide cusines.
But boy, can they be lazy.
Peppers can take forever to take off. I don’t know how many times I’ve stared pointedly at cell trays of peppers wondering whether to even bother misting them after two weeks.
Because they do take some time to get going, start them now so you’ll have time to plant them out as early as possible.
They don’t like the cold at all, so if we get another chilly December, it will be nice to get some sweet bells before then.
Check out our California Wonder pepper seeds to plant in July in soil blocks or cells.
Protecting Your Seedlings
Sowing under cover in Florida isn’t an issue of protecting delicate seedlings from the cold. Here, it’s a matter of preventing them from getting washed out by heavy rainstorms.
Starting seeds out of the elements can help keep them from burning up when the heat index is in the triple digits and even your hot peppers are getting scalded.
Whether you start them on a patio, lanai, or indoors, make sure they get plenty of light once the seeds germinate.
Since the long-season peppers and tomatoes like to germinate in warm temperatures, keep your seed starting trays somewhere where they’ll stay at a minimum of 75°F.
They’ll also need some airflow, which not only reduces the chance of dampening off but also stimulates the growth of strong, sturdy stems.
What Else to Plant in July in Florida?
Along with starting your Fall crops by seed, there are also a few heat-loving veggies you can direct sow. Summer is great for planting Okra and Southern Peas. If you’re not a big fan of black-eyed peas or cowpeas, you can also sow them as cover crops to improve your soil for fall planting out.
If you’ve already sown or purchased starts of tropical vegetables or Mediterranean herbs, you can add them to your garden. You’ll find exotic veggies like Okinawa spinach or Longevity spinach at many Florida nurseries. We sell Okinawa spinach starts too.
Make sure your Mediterranean herbs have plenty of drainage, as they can get root rot from our persistent (and seemingly unending) rainfall.
And don’t forget to plant flowers! Many annual flowers you can add to the garden will attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help nurture and protect your crops. Some will grow and bloom in just 60 to 75 days. Quick-growing annual flowers add beauty and diversity to your garden, and many provide critical root exudates for your soil.
Start your broccoli and tomato plants in late July in Central and South Florida.
Here’s what you can start sowing in July in Florida, as well as other Gulf Coast states in the U.S>
South Florida (Zones 10 to 11)
If you’re in South Florida, and some parts of coastal Central Florida, the weather is steaming, even dangerous.
However, it changes fast, so it’s a good idea to be ready with healthy vegetable plants starts so you’re ready to plant out in September.
Scarlet Sage loves the heat and will draw in bees and hummingbirds to your garden.
Pace Yourself When Gardening in Florida in July
Don’t try to start everything at once. Remember, it’s still very hot out there, and it looks like it will stay dry. So, no regular summer storms to cool things off a bit. There’s still a risk of heat exhaustion and skin damage from UV rays.
The wonderful thing about gardening in Florida is our mild autumn and the length of our growing season. Start with vegetables that take the longest time to mature, such as tomatoes and peppers. In Central and South Florida, you can usually plant these out as late as October and overwinter them by covering them on cold nights.
I’m never happy to see the days get shorter, but I’m always excited for the Fall gardening season. To make the most of it, you can get many of your vegetables and flowers started in July.
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