As a gardener in Florida, I’ve learned that our winters provide a unique setting for growing a variety of plants. You really can grow lettuce in Florida, as long as you grow it in winter.
Lettuce loves cool weather and will bolt and go to seed quickly in the heat. Since it starts getting really hot in May, that means the window to grow lettuce in Florida remains between September to April. Even then, there are a few tricks you’ll need to know to be successful.
Understanding Winter Climate in Florida
When we talk about gardening in Florida during the winter, it’s important to first understand the unique climatic conditions of the region. The Gulf States, from Florida to Eastern Texas, sit firmly in Zones 9 through 11. They have mild winters and enjoy lower humidity than the rest of the year.
Despite the milder temperatures, winter also brings shorter daylight hours. Lettuce generally requires around 6 hours of sunlight per day. In winter, the sun is lower in the sky, and the days are shorter, so selecting a planting site with maximum light exposure is crucial.
Winters in Florida are drier and less humid than the summer months, which is beneficial for lettuce, as high humidity can encourage fungal diseases. However, this also means you need to be more vigilant about watering.
Choosing the Best Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Florida
A big part of successfully growing lettuce in Florida is choosing the right varieties. You may have heard that it’s the one time of year you can grow crispheads, but my experience in Zone 10A says, “Don’t bother.”
Lettuces can be broadly categorized into four types: crisphead, butterhead, romaine, and loose leaf. In Florida, crisphead lettuces like iceberg generally don’t perform as well due to their preference for cooler, more consistent temperatures.
Yes, it may get below freezing, and yes, it’s generally cooler in the winter. But you see, when it’s not freezing, the temperature is still likely to jump above 80°F.
Instead, focus on butterhead, romaine, and loose-leaf varieties, which are more adaptable to those surprise heatwaves.
Heading Lettuce Varieties to Grow in Florida
Jericho Romain lettuce in the garden
Some “heading” lettuce varieties to look for:
Jericho Romaine
A robust variety known for its heat tolerance. Jericho produces dense, crisp leaves and is ideal for salads and wraps. This variety, developed in Israel, is very heat-tolerant, and I’ve even been able to keep it growing through to June.
You can find Jericho Romaine lettuce seeds in my shop.
Manoa
Similar to butterhead lettuce, Manoa is a heat-tolerant variety with a soft texture and sweet flavor, perfect for delicate salads. I’ve grown this one for several years but am still mastering the optimum germination temperatures.
Red Cross
This butterhead variety has beautiful, red-tinted leaves and a tender, mild flavor. It adds a pop of color to any salad. I haven’t tried this one yet, but the San Deigo Summer Lettuce program recommends it.
Nevada
Boasting good heat resistance, Nevada has crisp, green leaves that form a loose head. It’s known for its durability in fluctuating temperatures.
Paradai
A romaine type, Paradai is prized for its crunchy texture and resistance to bolting in warmer weather.
Parris Island
A classic romaine with long, dark green leaves, this variety is valued for its crisp texture and exceptional flavor.
Little Gem
A smaller romaine type, Little Gem is ideal for limited space. It has a sweet flavor and a compact, crunchy head.
Anuenue
Another butterhead type, Anuenue is known for its heat tolerance and resistance to bolting, producing soft, tender leaves.
Loose Leaf Lettuces to Grow in Florida
Loose leaf lettuce varieties are truly the easiest when you’re trying to grow lettuce in Florida. Best of all, you can harvest individual leaves as they mature, ensuring several harvests throughout fall and winter.
Mesclun Mix
Mesclun mix is generally a dealer’s choice of tender leaf lettuces and brassicas that provide a distinct and delicious salad blend.
You can find Mesclun Mix lettuce seed mix in my shop.
Black-Seeded Simpson
One of the most popular loose-leaf varieties, it produces light green, curly leaves with a delicate flavor. It’s a fast grower and very resilient. I’ve grown this one for years, and it’s recommended by the IFAS Florida Ag page.
Red Sails
This variety features attractive, ruffled, red-tinted leaves. It’s not only heat tolerant but also rich in nutrients and flavor.
Salad Bowl
As a cut-and-come-again variety, Salad Bowl produces loose, green, crinkly leaves that are both tender and flavorful. I’ve grown several “salad bowl” varieties in containers with much success, harvesting from October through April on a “cut and come again” basis.
Bronze Oakleaf
Known for its bronze-red leaves that resemble oak leaves, this variety offers a sweet taste and a pleasing texture. Most of the “oak leaf” type leaf lettuces will grow well in Florida winters.
Starting your lettuce seeds in cell blocks or seed trays allows for better control over the growing conditions. Even heat-tolerant lettuce varieties struggle to germinate at temperatures above 80°F, and my struggles with the delicate and sweet Manoa lettuce is a testament to that.
Temperature Control
It’s easier to manage the temperature for seed germination in controlled environments. Lettuce seeds prefer cooler temperatures for germination and can struggle in the heat, making indoor starting ideal.
Longer Harvest
Starting seeds in trays can lead to an earlier and longer harvest seaon by allowing you to begin the growing process indoors while waiting for outdoor conditions to become suitable. That way, you can sow lettuce seeds indoors during the boiling heat of August or the frigid nights of December.
Flexibility
Trays allow you to strategically plan your garden layout and maximize yield by choosing where and when to transplant seedlings. I frequently dot my winter garden beds with Jericho Romaine heads whenever and wherever space becomes available.
Here’s a detailed guide on how to successfully start lettuce seeds in cell blocks or trays:
You’ll need clean cell trays or small soil blocks. Use a light seed-starting mix that won’t offer too much resistance to delicate roots.
Make soil blocks or fill cell trays with your well-moistened seed mix.
Plant three seeds per block or 4 to 5 if using older seeds.
Cover lightly with soil and press down to increase seeds’ contact with soil.
Use a mister to keep soil moist or bottom-water as required.
Maintain a soil temperature of around 60-70°F.
Seedlings will need plenty of light once they germinate. You can grow them outside in Florida if temperatures are on-point. If it gets above 80°F or below 50°F, consider moving them indoors near a window or into a greenhouse.
If necessary, you can purchase inexpensive grow lights. The new LED technologies for grow lights provide full spectrum at low initial cost, reduced electrical usage, and thankfully – no added heat load to your home.
Lettuce seeds typically germinate within 7-10 days. Monitor the moisture level and temperature regularly.
Check the water daily. If seedlings become leggy (tall and thin), they need more light.
Thin back to one seedling per cell. You can try to separate them and plant them individually, but I have found they’re really just too delicate. Best to thin the herd and let the strongest one take over.
Gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions over a week. Start by placing them outside in a shady area for part of the day and then progressively increase their time outdoors.
Preparing the Garden
Florida soil is known for being sandy, which is nice for working but devoid of organic matter and nutrients. I try to layer some compost down on any planting bed twice a year to improve the soil.
Once weeds have been removed, you can transplant the seedlings into your prepared garden bed. Provide about 8” to 10” for each plant in order to provide enough space to grow.
Transplanting
Transplant lettuce seedlings to the garden after the last heat wave of September or anytime throughout winter until April.
Late December through late January has the highest chance of frost, so you may choose to avoid those weeks for planting out.
Ongoing Care to Grow Lettuce in Florida
Because Florida EATS compost, you may want to side-dress your lettuce with compost or composted manure. A dose of fish emulsion usually provides a boost in the middle of the growing season, as well.
The winter months also offer less rainfall. To add insult to injury, it’s also incredibly windy. That means you’ll need to stay on top of irrigation to keep your lettuce plants thriving.
Lettuce can handle light frosts, but temperatures below freezing (32°F or 0°C) for long periods can damage the plants.
In Florida, freezes are rare, but it’s good to be prepared. Use row covers or even old sheets or beach towels to cover them during a freeze warning.
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Growing Lettuce in Florida in Containers
Mesclun Mix Lettuce in the Garden
That sounds like a lot of work to me, and for the most part, I only grow a little heading lettuce here and there in the garden. I may stick some Jericho seedlings in between other plants. Once my fall determinate tomatoes crop, I sometimes plant some lettuce under them.
For a regular supply of homegrown lettuce, though, I use containers instead.
I’ve found that shallow planters (pick them up cheap at the dollar store) with some drainage holes added, make excellent garden planters for cut and come again leaf lettuce.
This offers several advantages:
Temperature Control
I can start seeds in August and keep them indoors or in the shade, moving the containers easily to where they’re needed.
Likewise, as the temperatures cool, I can move the planters into a sunnier spot in the garden.
Succession Timing
After several years of planting this way, I know how many containers to plant per week for my family. I plant five large trays (or seven smaller ones) per week for four weeks.
As the first ones mature, I sow more in succession. This means that I have a regular supply of fresh, young, tender lettuce at any given time.
I don’t have to deal with lettuce growing, maturing, and becoming bitter because we can’t eat it fast enough.
Not that the chickens aren’t willing to get rid of it for me.
Cheaper, Easier, and Less Work
Since I’m growing in containers, I only have to ensure moisture and fertility for a limited amount of soil. Lettuce is a shallow-rooted planted. It’s a hungry plant, because it doesn’t have deep roots. It needs all it’s moisture and nutrition close to the surface.
It’s a heck of a lot cheaper to feed and water a bunch of shallow containers than vast swathes of garden soil. Besides, growing my quick-maturing lettuce in containers means more room in the garden for broccoli and cabbages.
Growing Lettuce in Containers
Find shallow garden planters or other containers to use. You can use transparent bins (like on Roots and Refuge Farm) or cheap garden planters from the dollar store.
Last year, I found a clearance sale on some cubby bins from Dollar General and drilled some holes in the bottom.
Planting
Fill the container with 4” to 6” of good, rich potting soil.
Add some slow-release organic fertilizer to save time and trouble. Most are good for three to four months of growing.
Lightly scatter your loose-leaf lettuce seeds on top and then sprinkle the top with a light layer of more soil.
Press down with your hands to increase seed contact with the soil.
Mist well and place in a temperate spot to germinate.
Harvesting
As plants germinate and mature, harvest individual leaves for eating by pinching them near the ground.
Allow smaller leaves to grow and harvest later.
Planting and harvesting in succession will result in a season-long harvest of fresh salad greens.
Winter isn’t just the best time to grow lettuce in Florida, it may actually be the ONLY time you can grow it with any success in our hot, humid climate.
Whether you grow in the ground or in containers, adding fresh, homegrown salads to your winter menu is sure to elevate your cooking and improve nutrition for you and your family.
The Crinum Lily, renowned for its majestic beauty and resilience, is a captivating addition to any garden. This perennial plant boasts an array of attributes that make it both visually striking and a favorite among garden enthusiasts.
Crinum lilies, part of the Amaryllidaceae family, are characterized by their large, trumpet-shaped flowers that exude a sweet, sometimes overpowering fragrance. These blossoms come in a variety of colors, ranging from pure white to vibrant pinks and deep reds, often featuring subtle stripes or contrasting color patterns. The plant’s size is equally impressive, with some species reaching up to 5 feet in height.
The leaves of crinum lilies are another notable feature. They are long, strap-like, and can vary in color from bright green to a more muted, grayish-green hue. The leaves often form a dense rosette at the base of the plant, creating a lush and full appearance.
Crinum Lily Botanical Background
Crinum lilies are closely related to other members of the Amaryllidaceae family, such as amaryllis and narcissus. Their scientific classification places them in the genus ‘Crinum’, which comprises over 100 species.
Crinum lilies, with their diverse species, are indigenous to various parts of the world, including regions in the United States.
Native to Various Continents
Originally, crinum lilies were native to tropical and subtropical regions across Africa, Asia, and Australia. These continents host a wide array of Crinum species, each adapted to the unique environmental conditions of their habitats.
In Africa, for instance, crinums are often found in wet, marshy areas, while in Australia, they can adapt to drier, more arid conditions.
United States Native Species
Significantly, there are species of crinum lilies that are native to the southeastern United States. Crinum americanum, commonly known as the American Crinum Lily or Swamp Lily, is a notable example.
This species is particularly adapted to the warm, humid climate of this region, flourishing in wet, marshy environments such as riverbanks and pond edges. Its white, fragrant flowers make it a popular choice for water gardens and naturalized areas.
You’ll find it flourishing in the Southeastern U.S. from North Carolina to Florida and across the Gulf Coast states as far west as Texas.
Adaptation and Naturalization
In addition to the native species, several Crinum species have been introduced and naturalized in parts of the United States, particularly in warmer regions.
For example, Crinum bulbispermum, originally from Africa, has naturalized in areas of the southern United States, especially in Texas. These naturalized species have adapted well to local conditions and are often found in cultivated gardens as well as in wild areas.
Cultivated Regions and Conditions
In terms of cultivation, crinum lilies are most successful in USDA zones 7 through 11. They thrive in full sun to partial shade and prefer well-draining soil. However, their resilience allows them to adapt to various soil types and environmental conditions, making them a versatile addition to many gardens and landscapes in these regions.
In gardens across the United States, Europe, and other temperate regions, crinum lilies are often used in borders, as focal points in flower beds, or grown as pond-side plants due to their affinity for moisture.
Their robust nature allows them to adapt to various garden settings, making them a versatile choice for landscapers and home gardeners alike.
Types of Crinum Lily
Here are just a few of the many captivating varieties of Crinum Lily. Each brings its own unique charm and character to a garden.
The diversity in their flowering colors, leaf shapes, and preferred growing conditions make Crinum lilies a versatile and attractive choice for gardeners and landscapers around the world
American Crinum Lily or Swamp Lily (Crinum americanum)
The American Crinum Lily, native to the southeastern United States, is renowned for its elegant, fragrant white flowers. It thrives in wet, marshy areas, often found along riverbanks and pond edges.
This species typically blooms in the summer and is recognized for its long, strap-like leaves that form a lush rosette.
Giant Crinum Lily (Crinum asiaticum)
Crinum asiaticum, commonly known as the Giant Crinum Lily, is a large and robust plant. Native to tropical Asian regions, it features large clusters of white, fragrant flowers that sit atop tall stalks.
The plant can reach up to 6 feet in height, making it a striking specimen in any garden setting. It is especially popular in warmer climates and is known for its broad, glossy leaves.
Milk-and-Wine Lily (Crinum bulbispermum)
Crinum bulbispermum
Originally from Africa, the Milk-and-Wine Lily has naturalized in parts of the southern United States. Its name comes from the distinctive coloring of its flowers – white petals with striking red or burgundy stripes.
This hardy plant can tolerate a range of conditions, from wet to dry soils, and is often found in cultivated gardens and natural areas.
Crinum latifolium, or Broad-Leaved Crinum, is native to Southeast Asia. It’s known for its wide, dark green leaves and large clusters of pink or white flowers.
This species is often used in traditional medicine in its native regions and is also a popular ornamental plant due to its attractive foliage and flowers.
Native to South Africa, Moore’s Crinum is admired for its large, fragrant pink flowers. This species prefers shadier conditions compared to other crinums, making it suitable for planting under trees or in areas with partial sunlight.
It’s a popular choice for adding a splash of color to woodland gardens.
This hybrid crinum, a cross between Crinum bulbispermum and Crinum moorei, is well-loved for its robust nature and beautiful blooms. Powell’s Crinum Lily produces clusters of soft pink or white flowers and is particularly hardy, able to withstand colder temperatures better than many other crinum species.
It’s an excellent choice for a perennial border or as a statement plant in large gardens.
How To Care For Crinum Lilies
Crinum lilies, with their striking beauty and resilience, are a splendid addition to many gardens. To ensure these plants thrive and produce their large, fragrant blooms, it’s essential to understand the specifics of their care.
Where to Plant Crinum Lilies
The ideal location for planting crinum lilies is a spot where they can receive ample sunlight while being protected from harsh, direct afternoon sun in hotter climates.
These plants flourish in well-draining soil and can tolerate a variety of soil types, though they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH.
Crinum lilies do well in both garden beds and large containers, provided there’s enough space for their roots to spread.
When to Plant Crinum Lilies
The best time to plant crinum lilies is in the spring, after the threat of frost has passed. This allows the plant ample time to establish itself before the colder months.
When planting, ensure the bulbs are placed deep enough, with the top of the bulb just below the soil surface.
Spacing is also crucial – allow about 18-24 inches between each bulb to give each plant room to grow.
Crinum Lily Care Tips
From selecting the right planting location to regular maintenance, every aspect plays an important role in adding these beauties to your landscape.
Light
Crinum lilies thrive in full sun to partial shade. They need at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily to bloom profusely. In regions with intense sun, providing some afternoon shade can prevent leaf scorch.
Soil
While crinum lilies are adaptable to various soil types, they perform best in rich, well-drained soil. If the soil is heavy or clayey, incorporating organic matter such as compost can improve drainage and fertility.
Water
Regular watering is essential, especially during the growing season. The soil should be kept moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering or poor drainage can lead to bulb rot.
Once established, crinum lilies are quite drought-tolerant, though consistent moisture will yield the best flowering results.
Temperature
Crinum lilies enjoy warm temperatures and are most active in growth during the summer months. They can tolerate brief periods of cooler weather but are not frost-hardy.
In Zones 6 and colder, it may be best to lift the bulbs before the first frost to overwinter indoors.
Humidity
These plants typically do well in average garden humidity levels. In very dry climates, occasional misting can help maintain adequate humidity, though it’s not usually necessary.
Fertilizer
Feeding crinum lilies with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring can encourage vigorous growth and abundant flowering. A layer of compost can also improve bloom performance.
Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to more foliage at the expense of flowering.
Pruning
Pruning isn’t a significant requirement for crinum lilies. However, removing spent flowers and yellowing leaves can improve the plant’s appearance and health.
After flowering, it’s best to leave the foliage intact as it helps in photosynthesis, strengthening the bulb for the next season.
Caring for crinum lilies involves a blend of the right environmental conditions and attentive maintenance.
By providing these elegant plants with what they need, gardeners can enjoy their spectacular blooms and lush foliage for many years.
Overwintering Crinum Lilies
In regions where the climate turns cold and frosty, overwintering crinum lilies becomes an essential aspect of their care.
These plants, native to warmer climates, need special attention as temperatures drop. Gardeners in colder zones can still enjoy the beauty of crinum lilies by employing effective overwintering techniques, ensuring their survival through the winter months and vibrant regrowth in spring.
Potting and Repotting Crinum Lilies in Colder Climates
For gardeners in areas with harsh winters, growing crinum lilies in pots is a practical solution. This allows for the mobility of the plants, making it easier to move them indoors or to a sheltered location when the cold sets in.
When selecting a pot, ensure it is large enough to accommodate the bulb and allow for root growth, with ample drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
Potting-Up Crinum Lily
In late fall, before the first frost, potted crinum lilies should be moved to a cool, dry place such as a garage or basement where temperatures remain above freezing but do not exceed 50°F (10°C).
This period of dormancy is crucial for the health of the plant. During this time, watering should be reduced significantly, only enough to keep the soil from completely drying out.
As spring approaches and the threat of frost diminishes, gradually reintroduce the crinum lilies to outdoor conditions.
This process, known as hardening off, involves exposing the plants to the outdoors for a few hours each day, progressively increasing the time they spend outside over a week or two. This helps the plants acclimate to the changing environment, reducing the risk of shock from sudden temperature changes.
Lifting Crinum Lily Bulbs
For crinum lilies planted in the ground in colder climates, lifting the bulbs before the first frost and storing them in a cool, dry place over the winter is an effective strategy.
The bulbs should be gently dug up, cleaned of soil, and allowed to air dry for a few days. Once dry, store them in a breathable container, like a mesh bag or a box with peat moss, in a cool, dark place until it’s time to replant them in the spring.
By potting and appropriately caring for crinum lilies during the colder months, gardeners in virtually any climate can enjoy the splendor of these beautiful plants year after year. The key is to provide a period of dormancy and protect the bulbs from the harsh winter conditions.
Common Problems with Crinum Lilies
Crinum lilies, known for their robust nature and striking appearance, are generally low-maintenance plants. However, like all garden plants, they can occasionally face challenges.
Understanding and promptly addressing common problems such as pests, diseases, and other issues is key to maintaining the health and beauty of these plants.
Pests
While crinum lilies are not heavily prone to pest infestations, they can sometimes be affected by common garden pests.
Aphids, spider mites, and mealybugs are among the pests that may be attracted to these plants. These small insects can usually be found on the undersides of leaves or at the base of the plant. They feed on the sap, weakening the plant over time.
Regular inspection and prompt treatment with an insecticidal soap can effectively control these pests with diligent application.
Diseases
Crinum lilies can be susceptible to a few diseases, especially in conditions of poor air circulation or excessive moisture.
Root rot is a common issue, often caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil. Signs of root rot include yellowing leaves and a general decline in plant health. Ensuring proper soil drainage and avoiding overwatering are key preventive measures.
Fungal infections like leaf spot can also occur, usually manifesting as discolored spots on the leaves. These can be treated with organic fungicides and by removing affected foliage.
How To Get Crinum Lilies To Bloom
To encourage blooming in crinum lilies, several factors should be considered. Firstly, these plants need plenty of sunlight – at least 4-6 hours of direct sun per day. If they are planted in too much shade, their blooming may be sparse.
Nutrient availability is also crucial. Applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer during the growing season can provide the necessary nutrients for blooming. Additionally, avoiding over-fertilization is important, as too much nitrogen can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
Finally, allowing the plants to establish themselves without disturbance can also enhance blooming. Mature crinum lilies, well-settled in their location, often produce the most spectacular blooms.
Propagating Crinum Lilies
Propagating crinum lilies is a rewarding process that allows gardeners to expand their collection and share these beautiful plants with others.
One of the most effective methods of propagation for crinum lilies is through bulbils. Bulbils are small bulbs that form below the flowers on the stem.
The process is straightforward and can be accomplished with a few simple steps.
Propagate Crinum Lily from Bulbils
The first step is to observe the flower stems of your crinum lilies. These can grow from 3 to 6 feet tall. After flowering, bulbils will start to form at the top of these stems.
As they mature, they will grow in size and develop a firmer, more bulb-like structure. As they mature, the stem bends or flops over due to the weight of the growing bulbils, bringing them closer to the ground.
This is where they like to root. If you’re wondering if Crinum Lilies spread, this is how they do exactly that. The stems are long enough to fall just near the mother plant.
In their natural growth process, these bulbils will eventually root where they fall, often at the base of the parent plant or in surrounding soil. This natural rooting process is a unique trait of crinum lilies, allowing for easy propagation.
To propagate Crinum Lily, or if you wish to share them, you can collect the bulbils once they have matured. Mature bulbils are typically firm and have developed a dry, papery outer layer.
Storing Crinum Lily Bulbils
I store Crinum Lily bulbils in damp sphagnum moss or coconut coir in a large plant container. This large pot goes into the greenhouse where the lighting is low, the humidity high, and the temperature warmer in the winter.
Planting the Bulbils
I generally allow the bulbils to sprout before planting, however, you can plant them at any time when the weather remains warm.
To plant them in containers, choose a well-draining soil mix for planting the collected bulbils. Plant them in pots with the top of the bulbil just below the soil surface. If they’ve already sprouted, ensure that the sprout can reach the light above the surface easily.
When planting in the ground, space them at least 12″ to 18″ apart to provide enough room for growth.
Initial Care and Growth
Water the newly planted bulbils moderately, ensuring the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Place them in a location where they receive bright, indirect light.
Transplanting
If you wish to plant your container crinums into the garden, you can do so once they have established a robust root system and the weather is conducive.
In this way, you can be sure they’re viable before transplanting them to a more permanent location in your garden or landscape. This is typically done in the spring or early summer.
Frequently Asked Questions About Crinum Lilies
This section offers quick and concise answers to some common questions about the care and cultivation of Crinum Lilies, aimed at helping gardeners of all levels.
Do hummingbirds like crinum lilies?
Absolutely! Crinum lilies are attractive to a variety of hummingbirds. Their large, trumpet-shaped flowers, particularly those with bright colors, are excellent sources of nectar. Species like the Ruby-throated Hummingbird and the Black-chinned Hummingbird, common in areas where crinum lilies grow, are often drawn to these vibrant blooms.
What pollinator insects like crinum lily?
Crinum lilies attract a range of pollinator insects, notably including various species of bees and butterflies. Bees such as the European honeybee (Apis mellifera) and native bee species frequently visit these flowers. Butterflies, including the Monarch (Danaus plexippus) and Swallowtails (Papilio spp.), are also drawn to crinum lilies for their nectar. These pollinators play a crucial role in the reproductive cycle of the plants.
Are Crinum lilies perennials?
Yes, Crinum lilies are perennials. They are known for their long-lasting nature, coming back year after year, and often increase in size and bloom capacity with each growing season.
How long do Crinum lilies live?
Crinum lilies can live for many years, often several decades, when provided with the right growing conditions. They are long-lived perennials that grow larger and more prolific with age.
How long does it take for a crinum lily to bloom?
A crinum lily typically takes two to three years to bloom when grown from a bulb. However, the time to first bloom can vary depending on factors like the age of the bulb at planting and the growing conditions. Once established, crinum lilies bloom annually, usually in the summer.
How often do crinum lilies bloom?
Crinum lilies typically bloom from spring to fall, usually in response to rainfall or adequate irrigation.
Do crinum lilies like sun or shade?
Crinum lilies prefer full sun to partial shade. They thrive in areas where they receive at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. While they can tolerate some shade, too much shade can reduce flowering. In extremely hot climates, providing some afternoon shade can be beneficial.
How deep do you plant a crinum bulb?
A crinum bulb should be planted so that the top of the bulb is just below the soil surface, usually about 3 to 4 inches deep. It’s important to ensure the bulb is planted at the correct depth to promote healthy growth and flowering.
Do crinum lilies spread?
Yes, crinum lilies can spread over time. They produce offsets or “pups” from the main bulb, which can be separated and replanted to grow new plants. They also produce bulbils at the tops of flower stems, which fall over, usually within a few feet of the parent plant. These root nearby and grow into new Crinum Lily plants.
Should I cut back Crinum Lily?
Yes, you can cut back crinum lilies, especially to remove spent flower stalks and yellowing or damaged leaves. This helps maintain the plant’s appearance and directs energy back to the bulb. However, it’s important to leave healthy foliage intact, as it continues to photosynthesize and strengthen the bulb.
Are crinum lilies hardy?
Crinum lilies are hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11. They can withstand temperatures down to about 0°F (-18°C) for short periods. However, prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures can be harmful. In colder zones, they may require mulching or overwintering indoors to protect the bulbs from harsh winter conditions.
How poisonous are crinum lilies?
Crinum lilies are considered moderately poisonous. All parts of the plant contain alkaloids that can be toxic if ingested, with symptoms ranging from nausea and vomiting to more severe reactions. It’s important to handle these plants with care and keep them away from pets and children who might ingest them.
Growing and Propagating Crinum Lily
Crinum lilies are a fascinating and diverse group of plants, offering a wealth of beauty and interest to gardeners and nature enthusiasts alike. From their stunning, fragrant blooms to their adaptability across various climates, these perennials add a unique charm to any garden setting.
While they require some basic care and attention, their resilience and ease of care make them a rewarding choice for both novice and experienced gardeners.
By understanding their needs and common issues, you can enjoy the magnificent presence of Crinum lilies in your garden for many years to come.
It’s that time of year, again! It’s the holidays, and for most people, thoughts of the garden are far off. Not in Florida! We garden year-round here, so our next plant or crop is always at the top of our minds. So, if you’re looking for great gifts for gardeners, we know exactly what to suggest.
Top Gifts for Gardeners At Every Price Point
Times are tight, so you don’t want to spend more than you have to in order to impress that “special someone who gardens” on your list.
Choose from our favorites below, from thrifty to indulgent.
If your gardener is anything like me, you may find yourself fishing seeds and green beans out of your pants pockets on wash day.
This is SO on my wish list!
The Roo Gardening Apron is the ultimate tool for hands-free, efficient gardening. This innovative apron keeps all your essential tools within arm’s reach.
The best part of the Roo Apron is the large harvesting pouch. Made of water-resistant ripstop nylon, this spacious pocket is ideal for collecting harvest or debris.
It features an adjustable cotton rope for easy emptying, ensuring you stay clean and dry during any task.
It also features multiple smaller pockets for your phone, tools, and gloves, making it a versatile companion for all your gardening needs.
Ergonomically designed, the Roo Apron ensures maximum comfort with a unique strap system that distributes weight away from the neck and shoulders.
It’s adjustable to fit a wide range of gardener sizes, suitable for anyone from 4’6” to 6’4”. It comes in green, blue, purple, and gray, so it makes one of the perfect gifts for gardeners of any size or type on your holiday list
Gardeners always have a sense of humor, and this is one of those gifts for gardeners that lets them know you’re in on the joke.
But it’s not just funny, it’s also practical. this hat
It’s a perfect blend of style, comfort, and practicality for garden enthusiasts. Crafted from 100% cotton, this classic baseball cap offers a natural, relaxed fit that ensures comfort while maintaining a balance between style and technical performance.
It features six panels and six ventilation holes, ensuring breathability and comfort in any weather, making it ideal for spring and summer activities.
This versatile hat comes with an adjustable size to fit most head sizes comfortably. The convenient metal closure allows for a custom fit, ensuring comfort and a secure fit at all times.
It offers protection against harmful UV rays with its pre-curved visor, keeping your skin safe and hair out of your face. Its moisture-wicking interior headband acts as a sweatband, keeping you cool and comfortable during hot summer days.
The PLAY22 Garden Tools Set is one of the perfect gifts for gardeners who have just started on their journey. This comprehensive and high-quality collection of gardening essentials includes a sturdy carrying case and includes nearly every hand tool a new gardener could want.
Each tool in this set is made from sturdy steel, ensuring they are rust-proof, break-proof, and easy to clean. The ergonomic handles offer comfort during use, so it’s perfect for seniors or others with arthritis or carpel tunnel syndrome.
However, its thoughtful design and robust construction make this set an ideal gift for gardeners of all skill levels.
This set saves time and energy, providing immediate access to all the necessary tools for tending to the garden. With a lifetime warranty, the PLAY22 Garden Tools Set is a reliable and long-lasting companion for any gardening adventure.
There may not be anyone as obsessed with seed collection as I am, but this Survival Vegetable Seed kit comes close with a wide range of veggie seeds to plant.
This collection makes great gifts for gardeners and preppers, both novice and experienced. This kit offers an extensive range of over 16,000 seeds across 35 easy-to-grow vegetable varieties, all non-GMO and heirloom.
It includes favorites like lettuce, beets, carrots, onions, squash, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, peas, beans, and more, making it ideal for creating a diverse and thriving home garden.
Each packet includes complete growing and harvesting instructions. Grown, sourced, and packaged in the USA, this seed bank is an excellent gift choice for gardening enthusiasts, providing a sense of food security and self-reliance.
This Survival Vegetable Seeds Garden Kit is not just a collection of seeds; it’s an investment in sustainable, self-sufficient gardening.
6. NISAKU NJP650 The Original Hori Hori Namibagata Japanese Stainless Steel Weeding Knife
This is one of my favorite gardening tools that I own.
This is one of my top-tier gifts for gardeners, with an affordable price and made with craftsmanship and functionality.
Crafted in Japan, this weeding knife is made from the finest stainless steel, ensuring quality and longevity. The blade features inch markings, allowing gardeners to measure soil depth accurately, which is especially useful for planting bulbs and seedlings at the correct depth. This feature adds a level of precision to your gardening that standard tools simply can’t match.
The NISAKU NJP650 is a versatile multi-use tool, boasting both serrated and straight-edge blades. Its durability is unmatched, with a rust and scratch-resistant blade that maintains a razor-sharp edge through extensive use.
Ergonomically designed for comfort and efficiency, the knife has a blade size of 7.25 inches and a wooden handle of 5.25 inches, providing a balanced grip for various tasks. Weighing just 10 ounces, it is lightweight yet sturdy, offering ease of use for prolonged periods without causing hand fatigue.
For your gardening buddy who has turned to drink (or your drinking buddy who has decided to spend more time in the garden.
These cocktail herb growing kits make great gifts for gardeners who also like a tipple or two.
It’s an innovative way to infuse natural flavors into your drinks. This kit is not just about growing herbs; it’s about elevating your cocktail experience with a touch of gardening fun.
This kit offers a delightful variety of seeds tailored for cocktail enthusiasts, including cucamelon, blue borage, lime basil, hyssop, lemon balm, and mint leaves.
These herbs are carefully selected to add a unique and fresh dash of flavor to any beverage, making your cocktails stand out with home-grown, fresh ingredients.
The kit comes fully equipped with all the essentials needed to start your herb garden. It includes six pots, six peat discs for easy plant starting, six plant markers to keep track of your herbs, and a selection of seeds.
These herbs are perfect for displaying on any plant stand, adding a touch of greenery to your living space.
Do you remember what I said about gardeners and our sense of humor? Well, sometimes you just have to laugh when the harvest is poor and the flowers refuse to sprout.
This “Grow Dammit” sign is a humorous gift for gardeners, and it’s ideal for anyone who appreciates the joys and challenges of gardening.
It comes beautifully packaged in a gift box, making it ready to give for any occasion. The phrase “grow dammit” resonates with gardeners, symbolizing perseverance and determination in a lighthearted way. It’s sure to bring a smile to anyone who enjoys gardening.
The design of the sign is both natural and vintage, crafted from metal with a natural rust mark surface. This distinctive look allows it to stand out in any garden setting, adding character and charm.
This “Grow Dammit” garden sign is more than just another yard decoration; it’s a statement of humor, resilience, and the spirit of gardening.
Go pro with this full-grain leather garden tool belt.
Step up your gardening game with the Gaucha Designs Leather Garden Tool Belt, an exquisite blend of functionality and style for gardeners, florists, and various professionals. This tool belt is more than just a utility item; it’s a fashion statement that combines practicality with elegance.
Crafted from full-grain leather, this 100% leather tool belt is designed for both women and men. It’s an ideal companion for carrying all your hand tools, making it perfect for gardeners, florists, and farmers.
The tool belt’s durability makes it a reliable choice for storing gardening tools like scissors, pruners, pliers, tree grafting tools, woodwork tools, and more.
Each belt is handmade, reflecting a passion for style and quality. The fashionable flair of this leather tool pouch sets it apart, elevating any workwear look.
The Gaucha Designs tool belt is one of the best gifts for gardeners who take growing seriously.
Hands down one of my favorite garden purchases this year and one that I highly recommend. If you’re looking for showstopping gifts for gardeners in your life, this is it.
This greenhouse caters to their gardening needs throughout the year, combining practicality with durability.
The standout feature of the KING BIRD Greenhouse is its innovative watering system. It comes equipped with a 15-foot water hose and an irrigation kit.
The system is designed to adjust the water mist size and direction. This ensures your plants receive the right amount of water without waste. Additionally, this feature is a boon during the hot summer months. It can be used to cool down the greenhouse with a refreshing spray.
It features two entrances with PE and zippered screen doors, allowing easy access from both sides. The screen windows can be rolled up to control the temperature and humidity inside, creating an optimal growing environment for your plants. This design also helps in keeping out unwanted birds and pests.
The PE grid cover of the KING BIRD Greenhouse is another highlight. It offers UV resistance to prolong the lifespan of the structure and safeguard your plants.
KING BIRD places a high value on customer experience and product quality. This is why they offer a 1-year warranty or more on all their greenhouse kits, ensuring peace of mind for the gardener. The KING BIRD team is always available to assist with any questions or support, underlining their commitment to customer satisfaction.
Overall, the KING BIRD Large Walk-in Greenhouse is not just a structure; it’s a comprehensive gardening solution, ensuring your plants thrive in a controlled and nurturing environment, regardless of the external weather conditions.
Whatever Your Budget, There’s Great Gifts for Gardeners on Your List
No matter where they live, your favorite gardener is looking forward to spring. If they live in Florida, you know they’ll be out there the day after Christmas, playing with every new toy that Santa brings.
And it doesn’t matter if you have a lot to spend or just a few bucks, my favorite gift on this list is actually the cheapest one at the time of writing this.
Your favorite gardener is sure to love anything you choose when you keep their passion for growing in mind.
If you’re a Florida gardener, you may be wondering how to react to the latest USDA hardiness zone map. As many of us suspected, it really is getting a bit warmer, which means December Florida gardening can mean you can take more chances. Here in Zone 10, in Central Florida, I have a long list of winter veg and cool season blooms on my list.
As the winter season begins, Florida’s unique climate offers a variety of gardening opportunities. Whether you’re in the panhandle or down in the tropical south, December is an ideal time to start sowing seeds and planting a range of vegetables and flowers. Here’s a guide to what you can plant this month, with some basic info and planting instructions.
December is perfect for planting root crops in Florida. These underground treasures like carrots and beets thrive in well-drained soil and full sun. Sow the seeds directly into your garden, ensuring they have enough space to grow. Keep the soil moist and thin out the seedlings as they develop, allowing the strongest to flourish.
Beets
Beets are a fantastic choice for Florida gardeners in December. These vibrant root vegetables prefer well-draining soil and a sunny location.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and space them about 1 to 2 inches apart. As they grow, thin the seedlings to allow about 3 inches of space between each plant. This ensures each beet has enough room to develop fully.
You can also multi-sow your beets in soil blocks or large cell trays to plant out wherever there’s a gap in the garden.
Beets are not only nutritious but also versatile in the kitchen, perfect for salads, roasting, or pickling.
Tight Heads: Early Round Dutch is a white cabbage that produces dense, compact heads that average around 5 pounds apiece and 7 inches in diameter. The cup-shaped leaves have a sweet flavor that is excellent for coleslaw, cooking, and cabbage wraps.
Five Healthy Cabbages – Keep your family healthy with some of the most nutritional foods of all. Cabbage stores well and provides your family with so many vitamins and minerals needed for survival.
Carrots
Carrots are a must-have in any Florida winter garden. They thrive in sandy, loose soil that’s well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Plant carrot seeds directly into the ground, spacing them about an inch apart. Thin them carefully as they grow, allowing about 2 to 3 inches of space between each plant.
Regular watering is important to keep the soil moist, which helps in forming long, healthy carrots. The joy of pulling up your own homegrown carrots is unmatched!
Rutabagas
Rutabagas, often overlooked, are an excellent addition to your December garden in Florida. These root vegetables need full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
Sow the seeds directly in the garden, spacing them about 4 to 6 inches apart. As they grow, thin the seedlings to ensure enough room for the rutabagas to develop.
These are another root vegetable that’s a great candidate for multi-sowing.
They’re ready to harvest when they reach a good size and have a firm texture.
Rutabagas are lower in calories and carbohydrates than white potatoes and can be roasted, mashed, or added to stews, as well as making great home fries.
Radishes
Radishes are perfect for quick harvesting and are ideal for Florida’s winter gardens. They prefer cooler temperatures and well-drained soil.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and an inch apart. Radishes grow quickly, so thin them early and keep them spaced about 2 inches apart.
Keep the soil moist for tender, crisp radishes. They are ready to harvest in just a few weeks, adding a fresh, peppery crunch to your salads.
Turnips
Turnips are a versatile and easy-to-grow vegetable for your December garden. They prefer full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
Sow turnip seeds directly into your garden, spacing them about 2 inches apart. Thin the seedlings to allow about 4 inches of space between each plant.
You can also multi-sow them in blocks or cell trays, harvest the largest roots as they mature. Regular watering will help develop tender, flavorful turnips.
They can be harvested when they reach the size of a tennis ball and are delicious roasted or in soups.
Winter is one time of the year when brassicas really thrive in the Florida garden. These vegetables will need full sun during December. Keep the soil consistently moist to encourage lush, healthy leaves.
These greens not only add variety to your winter garden but also to your kitchen, offering fresh, nutritious options for your meals.
Cabbage is a great choice for Florida gardens in December due to its cold tolerance. Plant cabbage in a spot that gets full sun and in soil rich in organic matter.
You can start them in cell trays and then plant out or sow directly. Space the plants about 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the variety. Regular watering and fertilization will encourage robust growth.
Cabbage heads are ready to harvest when they are firm and have reached a desirable size.
Kale
Kale is a hardy green that grows well in Florida’s winter. It prefers a sunny location and soil that is rich in organic matter.
Start in cell blocks or direct sow in December. Space the plants about 12 inches apart to give them room to spread.
Water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist, which is key to tender, flavorful leaves.
Kale can be harvested as needed, removing the outer leaves as they mature. The flavor of kale improves with a touch of frost, should we get one.
Peas
Garden peas and snow peas are ideal for sowing in December in Florida. They thrive in a sunny location with well-draining soil. Providing support for climbing varieties will help them grow upward, maximizing space in your garden. As they prefer cooler weather, make sure to plant them early in the winter for a successful harvest.
Irish Potatoes
December Florida gardening is an opportune time for those in Central and South Florida to plant seed potatoes. Those in North Florida should wait until January.
Choose an area with plenty of sunlight and soil that is loose and fertile for optimal growth. Regularly mound the soil around the plants as they grow, which helps in the formation of the potatoes underground.
If you don’t have the garden space for planting potatoes, you can grow them in containers. Even cardboard boxes will last long enough until they’re ready to harvest.
Alliums
Garlic, onion sets, and shallots are excellent for planting in Florida’s December. They require a sunny spot with soil that drains well. Space them adequately, as crowded bulbs can hinder growth.
Water them regularly, but be careful not to overwater, as this can lead to rot.
The reason I get excited about December Florida gardening is because I can start my long-season spring vegetables for planting out in the spring.
In Zones 10 and 11, gardeners can start warm-season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.
I start mine in a greenhouse, but you can keep them outdoors under cover as long as the weather stays warm.
The best thing about Florida gardening is our back-to-back growing seasons.
If you want to learn more about planting schedules in Florida, check out my Florida Gardening Planner on Amazon. It provides a year-round planting schedule along with logging and planning tools for a full year of gardening in the Sunshine State.
Whether you’re a novice or an experienced gardener, mastering the skill of seed germination is a fundamental skill. It’s the first step to a bountiful and abundant harvest. So, let’s dive into the seed starting basics of germination and provide you with valuable insights on how to successfully kickstart your garden from the very beginning.
How Seeds Germinate
Seed germination is a remarkable process by which a dormant seed transforms into a tiny, delicate seedling. Understanding the science behind this empowers you to become a more proficient seed starter. You’ll be able to give your plants the best possible start. Let’s take a look at nature at work.
The Anatomy of a Seed
Seeds are remarkable storehouses of life. They consist of three key parts:
embryo
endosperm
seed coat
The embryo is the embryonic plant inside the seed, containing the first leaves (cotyledons), the stem (hypocotyl), and the root (radicle).
The endosperm, a nutrient-rich tissue, provides nourishment to the developing embryo.
Finally, the seed coat acts as a protective shell, shielding the delicate contents from external threats.
Image from page 372 of “Plant life and plant uses; an elementary textbook, a foundation for the study of agriculture, domestic science or college botany” (1913)
The Trigger: Absorption of Water
The germination process begins with the absorption of water through the seed coat. As the seed absorbs water, it rehydrates. The dormant embryo awakens from its slumber.
This rehydration process also activates enzymes that break down stored nutrients within the endosperm, transforming them into simple sugars and other essential substances for the seedling’s early growth.
Activation of Growth Hormones
Water absorption triggers the production of growth hormones called gibberellins, which play a pivotal role in stimulating the embryo to initiate growth.
Gibberellins activate enzymes responsible for cell division and elongation, propelling the embryo’s root (radicle) to emerge from the seed coat in search of moisture and nutrients.
Emergence of the Root
As the root (radicle) elongates, it breaks through the seed coat and emerges into the surrounding soil.
The radicle becomes the primary root of the seedling, anchoring it in the growing medium and absorbing water and essential nutrients.
Unfurling the Cotyledons
Simultaneously, the stem (hypocotyl) elongates, pushing the cotyledons (seed leaves) above the soil surface.
Cotyledons vary in number and shape depending on the plant species and can be either one or two. These early leaves are instrumental in photosynthesis and provide the young seedling with initial sustenance until true leaves develop.
Photosynthesis Commences
With the cotyledons exposed to light, the process of photosynthesis begins.
Through photosynthesis, the seedling synthesizes glucose, a vital energy source, from carbon dioxide and water using sunlight.
This metabolic activity fuels the seedling’s growth, allowing it to develop into a robust and self-sustaining plant.
The intricate processes of water absorption, hormone activation, and the emergence of roots and cotyledons collectively orchestrate a marvelous transformation.
What Seeds Need to Germinate
Seed germination is a critical stage in a plant’s life cycle, and providing the right conditions is essential for successful germination.
While individual plant species have specific germination requirements, some general factors influence seed germination across most plants.
Understanding these factors will help you create an optimal environment for seedlings to emerge and thrive.
Moisture
Water is a primary trigger for seed germination. During imbibition, the seed absorbs water, leading to the activation of enzymes that initiate metabolic processes and growth.
Sufficient moisture is vital during germination to ensure the seed swells, softens the seed coat, and facilitates the emergence of the radicle.
Warmth
Temperature plays a crucial role in germination. Each plant species has an optimal temperature range for germination.
Seeds typically require warmth to activate enzymes and metabolism. Low temperatures can slow or inhibit germination, while high temperatures can cause damage or desiccation.
Seeds respire during germination, converting stored energy into usable forms. Adequate oxygen supply is essential for these metabolic processes.
Soil structure and porosity influence the availability of oxygen to seeds in the growing medium.
Light
Light requirements for germination vary among plant species. Some seeds require light to trigger germination, while others germinate best in darkness.
Photoreceptor proteins in seeds sense light levels and influence germination responses.
Factors that Affect Seed Starting and Germination
Seed Coat Permeability
The seed coat serves as a protective layer, and its permeability affects germination.
Some seeds have hard or impermeable seed coats, requiring scarification (mechanical or chemical abrasion) to enhance water absorption and germination.
Seed Dormancy
Scarification involves breaking or weakening the seed coat, promoting germination. Stratification refers to subjecting seeds to cold treatment, mimicking winter conditions.
Both techniques are used to overcome seed dormancy and synchronize germination with favorable conditions.
Germination Inhibitors and Hormones
Some seeds contain chemicals that inhibit germination until specific conditions are met.
Others require exposure to hormones like gibberellins or cytokinins to initiate germination.
Germination Time
Different seeds have varied germination periods. Some seeds germinate quickly, while others may require several weeks or even months.
Understanding the expected germination time helps manage expectations and avoid premature intervention.
Seeds that Need Light to Germinate
Some seeds need sunlight exposure to germination. Sunlight acts as a signal to the seed that it is close to the surface of the soil and has good conditions to begin growing.
Light-sensitive seeds won’t germinate if planted too deep in the soil.
Vegetable Seeds that Require Light to Germinate
Arugula (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis)
Cilantro/Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Endive (Cichorium endivia)
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica)
Mustard Greens (Brassica juncea)
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris)
Flower Seeds that Require Light to Germinate
Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Amaranthus (Amaranthus spp.)
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Nigella/Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena)
Pansy (Viola tricolor)
Portulaca (Portulaca grandiflora)
Stock (Matthiola incana)
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Seeds that Need Darkness to Germinate
On the other hand, some seeds require darkness to germinate.
Light-sensitive inhibitors in these seeds prevent germination in the presence of light. When these seeds are covered by soil or kept in a dark environment, the light is blocked, and germination can occur.
Vegetable Seeds that Require Darkness to Germinate
Beets (Beta vulgaris)
Carrots (Daucus carota)
Parsnips (Pastinaca sativa)
Rutabaga (Brassica napus)
Salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius)
Scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica)
Skirret (Sium sisarum)
Taro (Colocasia esculenta)
Turnips (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa)
Yam (Dioscorea spp.)
Flower Seeds that Require Darkness to Germinate
Browallia (Browallia speciosa)
Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides)
Cyclamen (Cyclamen spp.)
Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria)
Forget-Me-Nots (Myosotis sylvatica)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana)
Primrose (Primula spp.)
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Viola (Viola spp.)
Seeds that Need to be Soaked to Germinate
Some seeds have hard seed coats that create a barrier to water absorption, slowing germination.
To overcome this dormancy, you can soak these seed before planting. You can also nick the hard shell before soaking. This softens the seed coat, allowing water to penetrate and trigger germination.
List of Flower Seeds that Can be Soaked before Sowing
Four O’Clock (Mirabilis jalapa)
Moonflower (Ipomoea alba)
Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea)
Sweet Acacia (Vachellia farnesiana)
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus)
Sweet Sultan (Centaurea moschata)
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Some seeds may require only a few hours of soaking, while others might need an overnight soak or even longer.
Seeds that Need Cold Stratification to Germinate
Many seeds from temperate climates have built-in dormancy mechanisms that prevent immediate germination.
This can be a problem when gardening in warmer climates in Zones 8-12. We rarely get enough cold or long enough during the winter to stimulate these kinds of plant seeds.
In this case, cold stratification, a process of subjecting seeds to cold and moist conditions before seed starting, mimics winter conditions. This breaks seed dormancy, allowing them to germinate.
This treatment triggers biochemical changes within the seeds, preparing them for germination once conditions become favorable.
Flower Seeds that Benefit from Cold Stratification
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)
Delphinium (Delphinium spp.)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)
Larkspur (Consolida spp.)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Seeds that Germinate at Cold Temperatures (40-50 degrees F)
Plants that have evolved to germinate best under cooler conditions may require cooler temperatures to germinate. This gives them a head start in competing in temperate climates.
These cold-tolerant seeds germinate when the soil temperature is relatively low, which is often during early spring or late fall when the weather is cooler.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at Cold Temperatures (40-50 degrees F)
Arugula (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica)
Mustard Greens (Brassica juncea)
Pak Choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis)
Peas (Pisum sativum)
Radishes (Raphanus sativus)
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at Cold Temperatures (40-50 degrees F)
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Delphinium (Delphinium spp.)
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)
Larkspur (Consolida spp.)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Seeds that Germinate at Cool Temperatures (50-65 degrees F)
Some seeds germinate at temperatures within the range of 50-65 degrees Fahrenheit. These cool-tolerant seeds prefer milder conditions, making them suitable for seed starting during the cooler months of spring and fall.
In warmer growing zones, such as 9-12, these seeds can normally be planted and grown over the winter.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at Cool Temperatures (50-65 degrees F)
Beets (Beta vulgaris)
Carrots (Daucus carota)
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
Mesclun Mix (Lepidium sativum, Eruca vesicaria, and others)
Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica)
Radicchio (Cichorium intybus)
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at Cool Temperatures (50-65 degrees F)
Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)
Clarkia (Clarkia spp.)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)
Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Seeds that Germinate at Moderate Temperatures (65-75 degrees F)
Moderate temperature conditions ranging from 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for the germination of most garden seeds.
These seeds thrive in mild, favorable temperatures. In Zones 9-12, we generally plant these seeds under cover to plant out right after the last frost date, before it becomes too hot.
We also frequently start them indoors in the summer to plant out once temperatures drop in the fall.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at Moderate Temperatures (65-75 degrees F)
Corn (Zea mays)
Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus)
Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
Melons (Cucumis spp.)
Peppers (Capsicum spp.)
Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo)
Squash (Cucurbita spp.)
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at Moderate Temperatures (65-75 degrees F)
Four O’Clock (Mirabilis jalapa)
Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.)
Gazania (Gazania spp.)
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.)
Petunias (Petunia spp.)
Poppies (Papaver spp.)
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus)
Seeds that Germinate at High Temperatures (75-90 degrees F)
Plants from tropical and subtropical regions of the world often germinate best at much warmer conditions. Their optimal germination temperatures range from 75 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
In Zones 9-12, we can sow these seeds directly in the garden in the early summer through early fall. They can also be started outside but should be kept under cover such as an awning to protect them from being flooded out by heavy rain or scorched by the summer sun.
Many of these plants are the few we can grow successfully through the summer in Florida. So, it’s worthwhile learning about these varieties and how to use them in your garden and your menu.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at High Temperatures (75-90 degrees F)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at High Temperatures (75-90 degrees F)
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Celosia (Celosia spp.)
Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa)
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.)
Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus)
Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)
How to Nick and Soak Seeds to Improve Germination
Seeds with tough outer coverings often require some help stepping out of their shells. You can nick the casing and soak them to speed up germination when seed starting these types.
Step 1: Gather Materials
Gather the seeds you wish to nick and soak. Ensure they are seeds that require scarification (nicking) or soaking for enhanced germination.
Step 2: Prepare the Nicking Tools
Use a pair of sharp scissors, a nail file, or sandpaper to nick the seed coat. Sterilize the tools with rubbing alcohol before use to prevent the spread of pathogens.
Step 3: Nicking the Seeds
Hold the seed firmly but gently with your fingers or tweezers to avoid damaging the embryo.
Locate the seed’s opposite end from the hilum (scar) where it was attached to the parent plant.
Make a small, shallow cut or nick on the opposite end of the seed coat using the prepared tools.
The goal is to break through the hard outer layer without damaging the delicate inner part of the seed.
Step 4: Soaking the Seeds
After nicking the seeds, place them in a container suitable for soaking. Glass or plastic containers work well.
Fill the container with warm water, about 100 degrees F or so. It should feel slightly warmer than your skin temperature. Cover the seeds completely. Don’t use water that’s too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures may harm the seeds.
Let the seeds soak for the specified duration, which varies depending on the type of seeds. Some seeds may require only a few hours, while others may need overnight soaking.
Step 5: Monitor the Soaking Process
Keep a close eye on the seeds while soaking to prevent over-soaking. Different seeds have different soaking times, and excessive soaking can lead to seed damage or rot.
Step 6: Drain and Plant
Once the soaking time is up, remove any seeds that are floating in the water. They will likely not germinate
Drain the water from the container. Place the nicked and soaked seeds on a damp paper towel to remove excess moisture.
Plant the seeds immediately after nicking and soaking, following the recommended planting depth and spacing for each seed type.
Remember that not all seeds require nicking and soaking for successful germination. Generally, those with hard shells can be soaked prior to planting
However, make sure you research the specific germination requirements of each seed type before proceeding.
How to Cold Stratify Seeds
Seeds from plants native to cold climates or those with natural dormancy mechanisms may require cold stratification before planting.
Find a sealable plastic bag or airtight container. To this, add a small amount of moistened coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite to the container.
Then, place the seeds on top of the damp medium.
Seal the container and label it with the seed type and the date of stratification.
Place the sealed container in the refrigerator, where it should remain at a consistent temperature between 32 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
The duration of cold treatment varies depending on the seed type, so you’ll need to do some research on your specific seeds. Some require a few weeks while others require several months.
Check the container periodically to ensure the medium remains consistently moist. Add a few drops of filtered water if the medium seems too dry.
After the required cold stratification period, remove the seeds from the refrigerator and allow them to warm up gradually at room temperature for a few days.
You can then sow your cold-stratified seeds following the recommended planting depth and spacing for each seed type.
Cold stratification is a valuable technique for enhancing the germination of certain seeds. It mimics natural winter conditions and prepares seeds to sprout when the warmer temperatures of spring arrive.
Planting Depth and Its Impact on Successful Growing
Planting depth is a critical factor in seed germination and seedling establishment, as it directly influences various physiological processes in plants.
Understanding the scientific aspects of why planting depth matters can help gardeners make informed decisions to achieve optimal growth in their gardens.
Here’s a scientific perspective on the importance of planting depth and its impact on successful growing:
1. Soil Temperature and Moisture
Planting depth affects the soil temperature experienced by the seed. Seeds planted closer to the surface experience higher soil temperatures, promoting faster germination.
Deeper planting can result in cooler soil conditions, which may delay germination.
Additionally, proper planting depth allows seeds to access adequate soil moisture levels, which are essential for initiating metabolic activities and cellular processes during germination.
2. Seed Respiration and Oxygen Availability
During germination, seeds undergo respiration, a process that provides energy for growth.
Adequate oxygen availability is crucial for efficient respiration.
Shallow planting ensures better oxygen diffusion to the embryo, promoting healthier seedling development.
Deeper planting may reduce oxygen diffusion, leading to suboptimal respiration and potentially weak seedlings.
3. Photomorphogenesis and Light Perception
Photomorphogenesis is the process by which light influences plant growth and development. Some seeds exhibit photoblastic behavior, responding to light for germination.
Seeds that require light for germination (positive photoblastic) should be surface-sown to ensure they receive sufficient light.
On the other hand, seeds with negative photoblastic behavior, which require darkness for germination, should be planted at the appropriate depth to shield them from light.
4. Hypogeal and Epigeal Seedlings
Hypogeal and epigeal seedlings are terms used to describe two distinct types of seed germination and the initial stages of seedling development.
These terms highlight the differences in how seeds sprout and the subsequent growth patterns of emerging seedlings.
Understanding these concepts is crucial for successful gardening and plant propagation.
Hypogeal Seedlings
Hypogeal germination is characterized by the emergence of seedlings where the cotyledons, or embryonic seed leaves, remain below the soil surface.
In this type of germination, the cotyledons do not emerge above the ground but stay within the protective shell of the seed coat.
Instead, the epicotyl (the embryonic shoot) elongates and pushes the cotyledons and growing point above the soil.
Key Features of Hypogeal Germination
Cotyledons remain below ground.
Epicotyl elongates and emerges above the soil.
Cotyledons remain enclosed in the seed coat.
Typically observed in plants like beans, peas, and sunflowers.
Examples of Hypogeal Seedlings
Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris): Beans are a classic example of hypogeal germination. When a bean seed germinates, the cotyledons remain underground while the shoot (epicotyl) elongates and emerges above the soil. The cotyledons stay enclosed within the seed coat until the shoot reaches the surface.
Peas (Pisum sativum): Peas also exhibit hypogeal germination. As the pea seed germinates, the shoot pushes upward, bringing the growing point and cotyledons above the soil. However, the cotyledons themselves remain below ground, protected by the seed coat until the shoot emerges.
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus): Sunflowers demonstrate hypogeal germination. The shoot of the germinating sunflower seed elongates and emerges above the soil, while the cotyledons remain within the seed coat below ground.
Epigeal Seedlings
Epigeal germination, on the other hand, involves the emergence of seedlings where the cotyledons are lifted above the soil surface.
As the embryonic shoot elongates, it pushes the cotyledons and growing point upward, breaking through the soil.
Once exposed to light, the cotyledons expand and begin to perform photosynthesis.
Key Features of Epigeal Germination
Cotyledons emerge above ground.
Cotyledons expand and perform photosynthesis.
Hypocotyl (stem below cotyledons) remains short.
Common in plants like lettuce, cucumber, and sunflower.
Examples of Epigeal Seedlings
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa): Lettuce is an example of epigeal germination. In lettuce seeds, the cotyledons emerge above the soil surface as the shoot elongates. Once exposed to light, the cotyledons expand and start performing photosynthesis.
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus): Cucumber seeds undergo epigeal germination. The cotyledons of cucumber seedlings emerge above ground, and as they unfurl, they begin capturing light energy for photosynthesis.
Melons (Cucumis melo): Melons, such as watermelon and cantaloupe, also exhibit epigeal germination. The cotyledons break through the soil surface and become exposed to light, where they start their photosynthetic activity.
For hypogeal seedlings, it’s crucial to plant seeds at the right depth to ensure that the epicotyl can push through the soil.
For epigeal seedlings, proper exposure to light is essential for the development of healthy cotyledons.
Understanding these examples of hypogeal and epigeal germination provides insight into how different plants handle the initial stages of growth. This knowledge can guide gardeners in providing the appropriate care and conditions for various types of seedlings.
5. Root Elongation and Establishment
The depth at which seeds are planted affects root growth and establishment.
Shallow planting encourages early root elongation near the soil surface, allowing seedlings to access surface nutrients effectively.
Deeper planting promotes downward root growth and establishment in search of deeper water and nutrient resources.
6. Seed Coat Integrity and Imbibition
Planting depth can impact seed coat integrity and imbibition (absorption of water by seeds).
Shallow planting minimizes the risk of seed coat damage during germination, enabling optimal water uptake by the seed.
7. Seedling Competition and Spacing
Proper planting depth helps maintain adequate spacing between seedlings. Appropriate spacing reduces competition for resources such as light, water, and nutrients, ensuring healthier individual plant growth.
8. How to Determine How Deep to Plant Seeds
Planting seeds at the appropriate depth is crucial for successful germination and seedling establishment.
The ideal planting depth varies depending on the size of the seed and its germination requirements.
Here are a few ways to determine the proper planting depth for different seeds:
Research the Seed: It often helps to read the seed packet, but additional research is a good idea.
Consider Seed Size: As a general rule, smaller seeds are typically planted at shallower depths, while larger seeds can be sown deeper.
Small seeds, like lettuce or petunias, may require only a light covering of soil or none at all.
Larger seeds, such as beans or squash, may need to be planted at a deeper depth.
Observe the Seed Shape: Some seeds have distinct shapes that influence planting depth. For example, flat seeds, like sunflower seeds, should be sown horizontally at a depth equal to their width.
Rounded seeds, like peas, are often sown at a depth two to three times their diameter.
Follow Recommendations: Pay attention to any specific recommendations provided for the seed variety you’re planting.
Some seeds, particularly those that require light for germination, should not be buried and should be surface-sown instead.
Soil Type Considerations: In heavy or clayey soils, it’s essential not to plant seeds too deep, as this can hinder seedling emergence.
In loose or sandy soils, consider planting slightly deeper to ensure adequate moisture retention.
Watering Considerations: Keep in mind that seeds planted too deep may struggle to reach the surface, and their access to moisture may be limited.
Planting at the correct depth ensures that seedlings can emerge and access essential water and nutrients after germination.
When to Start Seeds
Understanding the ideal timing for seed starting is crucial for successful gardening. Properly aligning seed sowing with the distinct growth preferences of warm-season and cool-season crops is essential to achieve robust and thriving plants.
What Are Warm Season Crops?
Warm-season crops flourish in the warmth of the spring through fall growing season. These crops, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash, exhibit specific characteristics that make them well-suited for the elevated temperatures of these seasons.
Characteristics of Warm Season Crops
Warm season crops require temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C) for optimal germination and growth. They thrive when exposed to abundant sunlight and have a longer growing cycle.
Requirements of Warm Season Crops
These crops need well-draining soil, ample sunlight (8-10 hours daily), and regular moisture. They are sensitive to frost, requiring careful timing for both indoor and direct sowing.
Seed Starting Times for Warm Season Crops
Indoors: Around 6-8 weeks before the anticipated planting months, aligning with the end of winter or early spring.
In Zones 9-12, we frequently start warm-season crops indoors in late December through January for planting out after the last frost date in February or March.
We also start seeds indoors or undercover in the late summer for planting out during the milder months of September and October after the heat of summer has worn down.
Outdoors: When the danger of frost has passed and temperatures consistently stay within the preferred range.
Examples of Warm Season Crops
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cucumbers
Squash (zucchini, butternut, etc.)
Eggplant
Okra
Watermelon
Cantaloupe
Pumpkin
Sweet potatoes
Corn
Beans (pole beans, lima beans, etc.)
Peanuts
Sunflowers
What Are Cool Season Crops?
Cool-season crops thrive in the moderate temperatures of fall and early spring.
These crops, including lettuce, spinach, carrots, and peas, possess unique attributes that enable them to flourish during the cooler months.
Characteristics of Cool Season Crops
Cool season crops tolerate temperatures within the range of 40-70°F (4-21°C) and often have a shorter growth cycle. They can endure light frosts and have rapid growth.
Requirements of Cool Season Crops
These crops thrive with well-drained soil, moderate sunlight (6-8 hours daily), and regular moisture. They can withstand cooler temperatures and even benefit from them.
Sowing Times for Cool Season Crops
Indoors: Begin around 6-10 weeks before the desired planting months, aligning with the end of summer or early fall.
In Zones 8-12, we can start many of these indoors or undercover during the late summer or early fall. Because of our mild winters, we can generally plant cool-season crops throughout the fall and winter, ending only in spring around late March.
Outdoors: Plan for direct sowing during the milder months of fall through early spring, avoiding extreme heat.
Examples of Cool Season Crops
Lettuce
Spinach
Kale
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Radishes
Peas
Swiss chard
Beets
Turnips
Onions
Garlic
What are Long-Season Crops?
Long-season crops encompass plant varieties that require an extended period to reach maturity and produce a harvest.
These crops demand a substantial growing season to develop fully, making them a strategic choice for gardeners in Zones 8-12 who have the luxury of extended warm weather.
Characteristics of Long-Season Crops
Long-season crops are marked by their slower growth rate and longer time to maturity. They often necessitate consistent warmth and a lengthy frost-free period to thrive.
Requirements of Long-Season Crops
These crops typically require well-draining soil, abundant sunlight, and regular moisture. The extended growing period allows them to develop deep root systems and produce bountiful yields.
Sowing Times for Long-Season Crops
Indoors: Start sowing seeds around 8-10 weeks before the projected planting months, aligning with the onset of the growing season.
You may need to pot these up after 6 to 8 weeks to provide adequate growing space.
Outdoors: Plan for direct sowing when the danger of frost has passed, and temperatures remain consistently warm.
Examples of Long-Season Crops
Tomatoes
Eggplant
Peppers
Melons (muskmelon, cantaloupe)
Winter squash (acorn, butternut)
Pumpkins
Sweet potatoes
Corn
Beans (pole beans)
Okra
What are Short-Season Crops?
Short-season crops are characterized by their ability to mature and yield within a shorter timeframe.
This often makes them quite suitable for the challenging subtropical conditions of Zones 8-12. Their fast growth rate allows you to get a harvest before it gets too hot or the pest pressure becomes overwhelming.
Characteristics of Short-Season Crops
Short-season crops have a quicker growth cycle, allowing them to complete their lifecycle before extreme weather conditions set in. They are often adaptable and can be grown as a reliable source of fresh produce.
Requirements of Short-Season Crops
These crops necessitate well-drained soil, moderate sunlight, and regular moisture. Their accelerated growth allows them to efficiently utilize available resources.
Seed Starting Times for Short-Season Crops
Indoors: Commence seed sowing approximately 4-6 weeks before the targeted planting months.
Because of their fast growth rate, it’s a good idea to sow seeds in succession. Planting another cell pack of seeds every two or three weeks allows you to plug in your small starters as space opens up in the garden.
You can use them for underplanting or filling in empty spaces. Or you can simply replace exhausted annuals in the garden.
Outdoors: Direct sow seeds when outdoor temperatures provide favorable conditions for germination and growth.
Again, succession seed starting is your friend. For many of these crops, you can direct sow in any empty spots in the garden for a quick harvest.
Examples of Short-Season Crops
Lettuce (leaf and butterhead varieties)
Spinach
Radishes
Carrots (early varieties)
Beets
Green onions
Peas
Bush beans
Turnips
Swiss chard
Planning for Big Harvests and Garden Abundance.
Understanding the distinct characteristics and growth requirements of warm season, cool season, long-season, and short-season crops equips gardeners with invaluable insights for effective garden planning.
This knowledge empowers gardeners to make informed decisions on when to start your seeds, optimizing their gardening efforts for successful yields and a thriving garden ecosystem.
By applying this understanding, gardeners can:
Optimize Seed Starting Times
Gardeners can confidently initiate seed starting activities at the appropriate times, aligning with the unique temperature preferences of each crop.
This ensures that seedlings develop robustly and are ready for transplanting when outdoor conditions are favorable.
Maximize Space Utilization
Armed with knowledge of crop growth duration, gardeners can strategically allocate garden space to accommodate the varying needs of long-season and short-season crops. This efficient space utilization enhances overall garden productivity.
Extend Growing Seasons
Gardeners can take advantage of the subtropical climate in Zones 8-12 by two growing seasons by selecting a combination of warm season and cool season crops.
This enables continuous harvests throughout the year, capitalizing on both spring and fall gardening opportunities.
Plan Crop Successions
Understanding the distinct timelines for different crop types empowers gardeners to plan successive plantings. As one crop nears maturity, gardeners can prepare to replace it with a different crop, ensuring a constant supply of fresh produce.
Mitigate Climate Challenges
Knowledge of the climate-appropriate crops allows gardeners to navigate challenges posed by subtropical conditions. By choosing short-season crops during periods of extreme heat, gardeners can ensure a successful harvest without being adversely affected by temperature fluctuations.
Enhance Biodiversity
Gardeners can foster biodiversity by incorporating a mix of warm season and cool season crops, as well as long-season and short-season varieties. This diversity attracts beneficial insects, improves soil health, and promotes a balanced garden ecosystem.
Promote Soil Health
By strategically rotating warm season and cool season crops, gardeners can prevent soil depletion and maintain optimal soil health. Different crop types have varied nutrient demands, reducing the risk of nutrient imbalances.
Seed Starting Basics: How to Start Every Type of Seed
Starting seeds in seed tray cells, soil blocks, or individual pots is a practical and efficient way to kickstart your garden.
By starting them in a controlled environment, you can ensure that only healthy plant starts end up in your garden.
If you have little space to work with, seed starting in small containers is the most efficient way to use your limited garden space.
Starting Small Seeds
Small seeds, such as those of herbs and flowers, require special care during germination due to their delicate nature.
Follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure successful germination and healthy growth of small seeds in seed tray cells:
Step 1: Select the Right Seed Tray
Choose a seed tray with small individual cells. These cells provide ample space for each seed to germinate without crowding.
Step 2: Fill Seed Tray with Growing Medium
Fill the seed tray cells with a high-quality, sterile seed-starting mix. The mix should be light, well-draining, and rich in nutrients to support early seedling growth.
Step 3: Moisten the Growing Medium
Gently water the seed-starting mix until it is uniformly moist. Avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to seed rot.
Step 4: Sow the Small Seeds
Carefully sow one to two small seeds per cell, following the recommended planting depth for each seed type. Use a toothpick or tweezers to handle small seeds delicately.
If using old seeds or multi-sowing, you can drop two or three or four seeds per compartment.
Step 5: Cover the Seeds (Optional)
Some small seeds require darkness for germination, while others benefit from exposure to light.
Refer to seed packets or reliable gardening references to determine whether covering the seeds with a thin layer of vermiculite or seed-starting mix is necessary.
Step 6: Label the Seed Tray
Use plant labels to identify the seeds sown in each cell. Proper labeling ensures easy identification as seeds germinate and grow.
Step 7: Provide Bottom Heat (Optional)
To encourage germination, consider placing the seed tray on a heating mat or a warm surface. Bottom heat can improve germination rates for some small seeds.
This may be unnecessary in Zones 9-12, although you may want to start seeds indoors during the winter months to ensure consistent temperatures provided by your home heating system.
Step 8: Provide Adequate Moisture
Place the seed tray in a shallow tray filled with water to allow for bottom watering. Ensure that the seed-starting mix remains consistently moist, but not waterlogged.
Step 9: Cover the Seed Tray (Optional)
Cover the seed tray with a clear plastic dome or plastic wrap to create a mini greenhouse effect. This helps retain moisture and humidity for optimal germination.
Step 10: Place the Seed Tray in a Warm Location
Position the seed tray in a warm location with consistent temperatures suitable for germination.
A bright windowsill or indirect light on a covered porch can provide enough light for those that require light to germinate.
Step 11: Monitor Germination and Remove Cover
Keep a close eye on the seed tray for signs of germination. Once the seeds start sprouting, remove the cover to prevent mold growth and provide better air circulation.
For most plants, you’ll need to ensure that the new sprouts receive some light. Even seeds that require darkness to germinate will require sunlight once they’ve broken the surface.
Step 12: Thin Seedlings (If Needed)
If more than one seed germinates in a cell, gently thin the seedlings to leave only the healthiest one to grow.
You won’t want to do this if you’re multi-sowing, however.
Seed Starting for Large Seeds
Starting large seeds in soil blocks or pots provides ample space and nutrients for robust seedling development.
Large seeds, such as those of melons, cucumbers, and beans, benefit from a more substantial growing medium during germination. They grow so quickly that they’ll outgrow a smaller container before they’re ready to plant out.
Some plants benefit from up to three months of supervised cultivation before planting out, including tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.
These long-season annuals are best planted once they’re well developed. To avoid stressing them with constant transplanting into larger containers, start with large soil blocks or small pots for germination.
Step 1: Choose the Right Containers
Select suitable containers for starting large seeds. Opt for individual pots or soil blocks with sufficient space to accommodate the size of the seeds and allow for root growth.
Step 2: Prepare the Growing Medium
Use a well-draining, nutrient-rich potting mix suitable for seed starting. Fill the containers with the growing medium, leaving about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) space from the rim for easy watering.
Step 3: Water the Growing Medium
Moisten the potting mix thoroughly to ensure even moisture distribution. Avoid overwatering, as large seeds may rot in excessively wet conditions.
Step 4: Sow Seeds
Plant one large seed per pot or soil block. You can plant two per block when using old seeds.
Place the seed on top of the growing medium at the recommended planting depth for each specific seed type.
Step 5: Cover the Seeds
Cover the seeds with the recommended depth of soil mix.
Step 6: Label the Containers
Label each container or tray of soil blocks with the name of the plant variety to avoid confusion as the seedlings grow.
It’s also useful to add the date to your tags. This allows you to plan for succession crops based on the time to germinate.
Step 7: Provide Bottom Heat (Optional)
If starting in an unheated room during winter, using a heating mat or placing the containers on a warm surface encourages germination.
Step 8: Maintain Adequate Moisture
Keep the potting mix consistently moist by bottom watering the containers. Avoid overhead watering, which may dislodge the large seeds or create uneven moisture levels.
Step 9: Monitor Germination and Adjust Light
Keep a close eye on the containers for signs of germination. Once seedlings emerge, provide adequate light to ensure healthy growth.
Adjust the position of the containers to prevent leggy seedlings.
Step 10: Transplant Seedlings (If Needed)
As the seedlings grow, they’ll develop true leaves and become crowded in their pots. If the conditions in the garden aren’t optimal yet, consider transplanting them to larger containers or individual pots for further growth.
Step 11: Harden Off Seedlings
Before transplanting the seedlings outdoors, gradually expose them to outdoor conditions over several days. This process, called hardening off, prepares the seedlings for the change in environment.
How to Direct Sow Small Seeds in the Garden
Direct sowing small seeds in the garden allows for a natural and straightforward approach to gardening.
Whether you’re growing vegetables, herbs, or delicate flowers, direct sowing is the easiest method for many plant species.
I personally prefer seed starting in blocks or cells first, but if you’re establishing a wildflower meadow or looking to create large swathes of bedding annuals, direct sowing really is the most straightforward method.
Direct Sowing Small Seeds
Follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure successful germination and growth when direct seed starting small seeds in the garden:
Step 1: Choose the Right Location
Select a garden location that receives the appropriate amount of sunlight for the specific plant species you’re sowing. Consider factors like soil drainage and exposure to wind when choosing the site.
Step 2: Prepare the Soil
Clear the area of any weeds, rocks, or debris. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) using a garden fork or trowel. Rake the soil surface to create a smooth, level bed for sowing.
Adding a layer of compost or mixing some composted manure into the first inch or two of soil will help provide a good environment for your seeds to grow.
Alternatively, many wildflower seeds prefer poor soil condition, so don’t provide any garden amendments for these hardy troopers.
Step 3: Sow the Small Seeds
Gently sprinkle the small seeds evenly over the prepared soil surface. Follow the recommended planting depth and spacing for each seed type.
For very tiny seeds, mix them with fine sand or vermiculite to help distribute them more evenly.
Step 4: Cover the Seeds
Depending on the seed type, consider covering the seeds with a thin layer of fine soil, vermiculite, or compost. Some small seeds benefit from being exposed to light for germination, so do not cover them if indicated.
Step 5: Water the Seeded Area
After sowing, water the area gently to settle the soil and ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Avoid heavy watering, as it may dislodge the small seeds or cause them to clump together.
Step 6: Monitor Moisture Levels
Keep the seeded area consistently moist until germination occurs. Use a fine mist or a gentle watering can to avoid disturbing the seeds.
Step 7: Thin Seedlings (If Needed)
Once seedlings emerge and grow their first true leaves, thin them out if they appear crowded. This step ensures each seedling has sufficient space to develop properly. Consult the instructions on your seed packet for plant spacing.
Step 8: Mulch the Area (Optional)
Once seeds have germinated, been thinned, and have developed several sets of true leaves, consider applying a thin layer of organic mulch around the seedlings. This will conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and help to maintain an even soil temperature.
How to Direct Sow Large Seeds in the Garden
Direct sowing large seeds in the garden is a simple and efficient way to grow a variety of plants.
Although I generally recommend seed starting in blocks or cell trays and then planting out, species with deep tap roots, hypersensitive roots, or those that grow extremely quickly can be direct sown.
Whether you’re planting beans, squash, or sunflowers, follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure successful direct sowing of large seeds in your garden:
Step 1: Choose the Right Location
Select a sunny location in your garden with well-draining soil. Ensure that the chosen spot provides ample space for the large plants to grow.
If seed starting for climbers or vines, it’s a good idea to install your trellis or support structure before sowing your seeds.
This 1) prevents any damage done to delicate seedlings by trying to install the support after it has started growing. And 2) Allows you to better eyeball plant spacing by using the trellis or support as a measure.
Step 2: Prepare the Soil
Clear the area of any weeds, rocks, or debris. Decide where you’ll be planting each seed and cover each location with several inches of compost
If your soil is highly compacted, you can loosen the soil to a depth of about 4-6 inches in each location. We generally recommend no-dig methods and try to avoid disturbing the structure and living organisms below the soil surface.
Step 3: Sow the Large Seeds
Poke a hole to the depth recommended for the seeds and sow them directly into the prepared space.
Step 4: Cover and Firm the Soil
After sowing, cover over with the loose compost you provided. Firm the soil or compost over the seeds gently with your hands.
Step 5: Water the Seeded Area
Water the seeded area thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil around the seeds. Adequate watering is essential for proper germination.
Step 6: Monitor Moisture Levels
Keep the seeded area consistently moist until germination occurs. Regularly check the soil moisture and water as needed, especially during dry spells.
Step 7: Thin Seedlings (If Needed)
Once the large seedlings emerge and grow their first true leaves, thin them out if they are too close together. Thinning allows each seedling to have enough space to develop and access sunlight and nutrients.
Step 8: Feed and Mulch Your Plants
Once plants are a few inches high and have developed several sets of true leaves, you can apply vegetable fertilizer and mulch around the seedlings.
Consider applying a slow-release organic vegetable fertilizer or organic compost to support the growth of your plants. These once-a-month or once-a-season amendments can really save you many hours of hard work in the garden.
Water fertilizer or compost in well after application and then proceed to mulching.
Mulch can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool enough to support the beneficial microbiological organisms that plants need for healthy growth.
Consider straw or hay for mulching vegetable beds.
Wood chips are an excellent mulch for perennial plants, but don’t break down quickly enough for annual plantings and may interfere with your plants in future seasons.
Common Problems in Seed Starting, Prevention, and Remedies
Starting seeds can be a rewarding endeavor, but it is not without its challenges. Gardeners may encounter various problems during the seed starting process, leading to germination failure or stunted seedling growth.
Here is a list of common problems that may occur when starting seeds, along with their symptoms and remedies:
1. Problem: Poor Germination
Symptoms: Low percentage of seeds germinating or seeds failing to sprout.
Remedies: Ensure seeds are fresh and not expired. If you decide to use old seed up, double up on the number you plant.
Make sure the temperature is right for your seed type. You can find a chart of optimal temperatures on our website here.
You may have over-covered seeds that require light to germinate. Sometimes, seed packets lie and I’ve seen many that say to plant seeds ½ deep that won’t germinate without sunlight. Do some additional research on your seeds to be sure.
Avoid overwatering. This can cause seeds to rot before they can sprout.
2. Problem: Damping Off
Symptoms: Seedlings appearing weak, wilting, and collapsing at the soil level due to fungal infection.
Remedies: Use sterile potting mix and clean containers.
Improve air circulation around seedlings to reduce humidity.
Avoid overwatering and allow the soil surface to dry between watering.
3. Problem: Leggy Seedlings
Symptoms: Seedlings with elongated and weak stems reaching for light, often resulting from insufficient light or crowded conditions.
Remedies: Provide adequate light to seedlings, either with grow lights or by placing them in a sunny location. Thin out seedlings to allow ample space for each to grow.
In some cases, particularly tomatoes and peppers, you can salvage leggy seedlings by replanting them deeply into a larger container.
4. Problem: Seedlings Turning Yellow
Symptoms: Seedlings showing yellowing of leaves, usually due to nutrient deficiencies or overwatering.
Remedies: Although most seeds contain enough nutrients to support the initial growth of the seedlings, you may run into a nutrient deficiency if the seedling is in the cell too long.
You can use some dilute balanced liquid fertilizer when bottom watering.
To prevent this from happening, pot up your seedlings into larger containers sooner than later.
Yellowing may also be caused by overwatering. Bottom water with a very diluted fertilizer and allow the cells or pots surface to dry out before watering again.
5. Problem: Seedlings Growing Slowly
Symptoms: Seedlings not showing significant growth over time, possibly due to poor soil quality or low temperatures.
Remedies: Ensure the growing environment is warm enough to support seedling growth. Add a heat mat or move trays to a warmer location.
6. Problem: Fungal or Bacterial Diseases
Symptoms: Seedlings displaying discoloration, wilting, or lesions caused by fungal or bacterial infections.
Remedies: Remove affected seedlings promptly and destroy them.
Improve air circulation and avoid overcrowding to reduce disease spread. Use sterilized containers and tools.
Often, seed trays can show signs of algae growth on the tops. This is usually caused by exposure to sunlight when damp and is relatively harmless. The green sheen on top of your seed trays is annoying and unsightly, but it’s usually no detriment to the plant.
7. Problem: Insect Pests
Symptoms: Seedlings showing signs of pest infestations, such as chewed leaves or visible insects.
Remedies: Monitor seedlings regularly for pests and take appropriate measures, such as handpicking or using organic insecticides, to manage infestations.
If starting seeds outside, you may even find rodents digging into your seed trays to collect species like sunflowers, melons, or squash seeds. Cover seed trays with sturdy covers at night. You can also move them to a protected spot (like indoors) until they have sprouted to prevent this problem.
8. Problem: Lack of Hardening Off
Symptoms: Seedlings showing shock when transplanted outdoors due to insufficient acclimatization.
Remedies: Gradually expose seedlings to outdoor conditions for a few hours each day over several days before transplanting, a process known as hardening off.
If possible, transplant your young seedling during a cloudy day, especially if there’s rain in the forecast. I find this helps them transition to outdoor garden life much better.
9. Problem: Overcrowding
Symptoms: Seedlings growing closely together, leading to competition for resources and weak growth.
Remedies: It’s tough, but it has to be done. Thin out seedlings to provide adequate space for each plant to grow and develop.
10. Problem: Insufficient Watering
Symptoms: Seedlings showing signs of wilting or dry soil due to inadequate watering.
Remedies: Water seedlings consistently and ensure the soil remains evenly moist without becoming waterlogged.
FAQ
When is the best time to start seeds?
For successful seed starting in gardening Zones 8-12, there are generally two good times to start seeds. The first is four to six weeks before the last frost date in the spring for planting out in February and March. The second is in late summer in July and for planting out in September and October. This will vary depending on whether you’re planting warm season or short season crops.
Why should you start seeds indoors?
Starting seeds indoors in Zones 8-12 offers several benefits. It extends the growing season, giving delicate crops like tomatoes and peppers a head start before planting out. It also provides a controlled environment for germination, out of excessive heat and heavy rainfall.
Where is the best place to start seeds indoors?
In Zones 8-12, where warm and humid conditions prevail, the best location to start seeds indoors is a well-ventilated area with consistent warmth and ample sunlight. Choose a spot that receives abundant natural light or use grow lights. Be cautious not to overheat the seedlings. Adequate airflow is essential to prevent fungal issues, so ensure good ventilation while keeping the humidity in check.
How many seeds per starter pot should you sow?
When seed starting, it’s essential to strike a balance between providing adequate space for each seedling’s growth and maximizing your planting efficiency. Generally, aim to sow 2-3 seeds per starter pot, ensuring a higher likelihood of successful germination. If using old seeds from earlier seasons, consider sowing 3 to 4 seeds. This approach accounts for potential variations in seed viability and helps ensure at least one healthy seedling per pot. Once seedlings develop their first true leaves, you can carefully thin out the weaker seedlings, leaving the strongest ones to continue growing.
How many lumens for seed starting should a grow light have?
When using grow lights for seed starting, it’s important to provide your seedlings with the optimal amount of light to promote healthy growth. For most vegetable and flower seedlings, aim for a grow light that provides around 1000 to 1500 lumens per square foot. This light intensity mimics the brightness of natural sunlight and encourages sturdy stem development and vibrant leaf growth.
When do you begin starting fall seeds in Zones 8-12?
In Zones 8-12, the timing for starting fall seeds varies based on the type of seed you’re growing. In general, you’ll sow warm-season crops in late summer to plant out in the fall. You’ll sow warm-season crops again from late December through January to plant out after your last frost date.
For cool season crops, you can start seeds indoors in late summer and plant out from October through March as the weather allows. Most cool season crops can be planted in Zones 8-12 throughout the winter.
How many hours of light do seeds need to germinate?
Seeds require varying amounts of light for germination, depending on the plant species and its specific light preferences. In general, many seeds benefit from around 12-16 hours of light per day during the germination process. Remember that some seeds require darkness to germinate and should be covered or placed in a dark environment during this phase.
What are the 4 requirements for seed germination?
The four primary requirements for seed germination are water, proper temperature, oxygen, and suitable soil or growing medium. These factors work in conjunction to trigger the biochemical processes necessary for a seed to break dormancy, swell, and initiate growth.
Which seeds need light to germinate?
Seeds that require light for germination include lettuce, spinach, arugula, kale, radish, cilantro, dill, nasturtium, calendula, zinnia, sweet alyssum, and pansy. Providing these seeds with exposure to light during germination is essential for their successful sprouting and subsequent growth.
What not to do when germinating seeds?
When seed starting, it’s important to avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to fungal growth and rot. Additionally, refrain from planting seeds too deeply, as they may struggle to reach the surface. Avoid using contaminated soil, as it can hinder germination. Finally, placing seeds in an area with insufficient light or incorrect temperature can delay or prevent germination.
How do you know when a seed is germinating?
You can identify germination by observing the emergence of the seedling from the growing medium. As the seed absorbs water and swells, the outer shell cracks, and a tiny shoot, called the radicle, emerges. This initial growth is followed by the emergence of the seedling’s first leaves, called cotyledons.
How do you know if seeds are too old?
Seeds that are too old may exhibit reduced germination rates or fail to germinate altogether. You can assess seed viability by performing a simple germination test. Place a specific number of seeds on a damp paper towel, seal it in a plastic bag, and keep it in a warm location for the recommended time period. Afterward, count the number of seeds that have sprouted. If a significant percentage fails to germinate, it indicates reduced viability.
Which is the best seed starting mix?
We recommend a blend of coconut coir, perlite, compost, and a slow-release fertilizer that contains beneficial mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria. You can purchase a commercial blend like ProMix, or make your own. Avoid heavy garden soil or potting mixes, as they can impede seedling development.
How do I make my own seed starting mix?
A basic recipe includes mixing together coconut coir and perlite in equal parts. To make a larger batch, use a bucket or large container and thoroughly blend the ingredients until well combined. Optionally, you can add a small amount of finely screened compost or vermicompost for added nutrients. we also recommend adding a slow-release fertilizer for seed starting in small pots or soil blocks where the plants will remain for many weeks before planting out. This DIY mix offers a cost-effective and customizable solution for starting seeds, ensuring a suitable medium for germination and early growth.
What is a good recipe for soil block mix?
Mix the following components thoroughly to create a peat-free soil block mix. Coconut coir serves as an environmentally friendly alternative to peat moss, providing adequate moisture retention and aeration. It also adds structure to the soil block mix to ensure they hold together. Compost adds nutrients to support seedling growth, while vermiculite and perlite contribute to proper drainage and texture. This peat-free mix offers a sustainable option for starting seeds in soil blocks, promoting healthy germination and early development.
Adding flowering bushes to your Florida garden can save you so much time and keep you out of the heat. They offer gardeners year after year of color and texture with no yearly bed prep or planting out. They’re landscaping workhorses that deliver years of satisfaction. The best flowering bushes for Florida can create structure and tone and set the whole mood for your garden with a lot less hard work in the heat and humidity.
So, which are the best flowering bushes for Florida? Some good doers for our hot and humid climate include hardy and tropical hibiscus. Other great flowering perennials for Florida are Arabian jasmine, camellias, azaleas, plumbago, tibouchina, duranta, firebush, bougainvillea, and gardenias.
Which Are the Best Flowering Bushes for Florida?
Add drama and structure by using flowering bushes in your Southern garden. Most offer year-round color and evergreen foliage while attracting wildlife to your yard.
Best of all, you’ll only need to plant them once. After they’re established, you can rely on them for years to come with only the occasional feeding and pruning.
Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac) delivers
delicate and delicious-smelling white flowers. They’re also evergreen, so your
garden will never look bare and scrubby in the colder months.
Even better, they’re fine with a little
shade, though you may not get as many blooms. They can spread with a few viney
offshoots (perfect for cuttings), but you can also keep them pruned for
container gardening.
On the whole, they’re a large, showy bush that requires very little maintenance.
Jasminum sambac belongs to the Oleaceae family and is commonly referred to as Sambac Jasmine, Jasmine Sambac, or simply Arabian Jasmine. It is widely cultivated for its intoxicating scent and ornamental value.
Arabian Jasmine Description
Arabian Jasmine has glossy, dark green leaves with an oval to lanceolate shape. The leaves grow in opposite pairs along the stems and provide an attractive backdrop to its white flowers.
The hallmark of Arabian Jasmine is its exquisite and highly fragrant flowers. The blooms are small and star-shaped, with five or more petals, and they are pure white in color. The intoxicating scent of the flowers fills the air, especially during the evening.
Arabian Jasmine is a vining shrub with a semi-climbing growth habit. It can reach a mature height of 6 to 10 feet or more, depending on the support structure it grows on. It is often trained to climb trellises, fences, or walls, but it can also be pruned into a more compact form.
Arabian Jasmine Optimal Growing Conditions
Arabian Jasmine is believed to have originated in South Asia, specifically in India or the southeastern parts of Asia.
It thrives in warm and humid climates, making it well-suited for Florida’s tropical and subtropical conditions.
For optimal growth and flowering, Arabian Jasmine prefers full sun to partial shade. The plant prefers well-draining soil with good fertility and benefits from regular watering, especially during dry spells.
Arabian Jasmine flourishes in Florida’s hardiness zones 9 to 11. It is not frost-tolerant and requires protection during cold spells or freezing temperatures.
Arabian Jasmine produces its fragrant white flowers throughout the year in warm climates, with peak flowering usually occurring in spring and summer. The sweet scent of the flowers attracts bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, contributing to the garden’s biodiversity.
2. Azalea (Rhododendron indicum)
When you think of gardening in the South, you
think of azaleas. These big blousy bushes set blooms in such an explosion of
color that you can’t help but be tempted. And the range of colors is just as exciting,
with whites, creams, pinks, reds, purples, and even oranges. Their evergreen
foliage provides year-round structure
Most gardeners think it’s a must if you’re growing in warmer zones. However, if you’re gardening in Zones 10 and 11, you may need to pass.
Evergreen azaleas, also known as Rhododendron indicum, are often grown for their colorful and abundant blooms. These plants belong to the Ericaceae family and are commonly referred to as Azaleas.
Azalea Description
Azaleas feature small to medium-sized leaves with an elliptical or ovate shape. The leaves are often evergreen, but some deciduous varieties shed their leaves in the fall. The foliage can be glossy or matte, and its color ranges from dark green to bronze or even variegated patterns.
The highlight of azaleas is undoubtedly their profusion of showy flowers. You’ll find azaleas in a wide range of colors, including shades of white, pink, red, purple, and even bi-color combinations. The flowers are usually funnel-shaped or tubular.
Some Azaleas are compact and low-growing, while others can become large, upright shrubs. The mature size of Azaleas varies widely, with heights ranging from 1 to 10 feet and spreads of 1.5 to 10 feet.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Azaleas
Azaleas are native to Japan, and they thrive in the cool, moist forests and mountains of their native habitat.
Azaleas prefer partial shade to filtered sunlight. They thrive in well-draining, acidic soil with high organic matter.
Azaleas are well-suited for Florida’s climate and are typically grown in hardiness zones 8 to 10. They can tolerate mild winter temperatures but may need protection from freezing temperatures in some regions.
Generally, Azaleas bloom in spring, and the vibrant flowers attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, contributing to the garden’s ecological diversity.
This shade-tolerant flowering bush is a favorite of bees and butterflies and gives your garden a tousled, cottage feel. In 9B and below, it winters over well without any protection at all. It may even do well in Zones above if planted in a protected spot.
This is another one of those special plants that tolerate – and bloom well – in dappled shade. And best of all, it doesn’t sprawl out of control. While you can prune it, Nettle-leaf Porterweed rarely grows more than 4 feet high and 3 feet white. You may want to prune it back hard in the spring to encourage denser growth.
Blue Porterweed isn’t terribly thirsty, but it does require water once a week. And it may need more during hot dry spells and will let you know when it needs a drink in the summer.
4. Camellias (Camellia japonica)
Camellias are considered a go-to for best flowering bushes for Florida. They’ve been a favorite since they were imported from China over 200 years ago. That may be because they bloom in the fall and winter, when most other flowering bushes have settled down for the year.
Their evergreen foliage provides privacy screens, and they do well in shady areas. Finding good flowering plants for shade is a real task in the South, but camellias have your back on this one. They bloom better in dappled shady spots than in sunny areas.
Plant camellias in acidic soil and give them three years to get established. Fertilizer with plant food for acid-loving flowering shrubs right after they’re done blooming.
Make sure you choose the best type for your zone. Japonica thrives in warmer regions, while sasanqua flourishes further north, which makes it one of the better flowering bushes for Zone 8.
Camellia japonica Description
Camellias have lustrous, dark green leaves with a glossy texture. But the hallmark of Camellias is their exquisitely formed flowers. The blooms come in various colors, including shades of white, pink, red, and even bi-color combinations. The flowers are often large, measuring 2 to 5 inches in diameter, with a waxy texture.
Camellia japonica has a dense, compact growth habit with a rounded or pyramidal shape. The plant can reach a mature height of 6 to 12 feet and a spread of 6 to 10 feet, depending on the specific variety and growing conditions, although dwarf cultivars are also available.
Camellias Optimal Growing Conditions
Camellia japonica is native to Japan, and they in the cool, moist forests and mountains of its native habitat. For optimal growth and flowering, Camellias prefer partial shade to filtered sunlight. They prefer well-draining, acidic soil that is rich in organic matter.
Camellia japonica is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 7 to 9. It can tolerate mild winter temperatures but may need protection from freezing temperatures.
Camellia japonica typically blooms from late fall to early spring, providing a much-needed burst of color during the cooler months. The flowers are a valuable source of nectar for early-season pollinators, including bees.
Firebush, or Hamelia patens, is a magnet for bees and butterflies and is perfect for Zones 8 to 11. This semi-woody perennial produces bright red and orange flowers, although colors differ between cultivars. That includes its foliage, which can range from deep green to yellow.
This beauty loves sun, though it can manage a
little shade. Best of all, it’s pretty salt-tolerant, so it’s a good doer in
coastal gardens like mine.
This Florida native delivers blooms year-round and can get up to 10 feet tall. Or, you can keep it in a pot to keep it small or choose a dwarf variety.
Firebush Description
The highlight of the Firebush is undoubtedly its striking tubular flowers, which are a vibrant red-orange color. The flowers are small and arranged in dense clusters, creating a fiery display of color that is highly attractive to pollinators, especially hummingbirds and butterflies.
Firebush typically forms a multi-stemmed, semi-woody shrub with an upright growth habit. It can reach a mature height of 6 to 12 feet and a spread of 4 to 8 feet.
The plant’s moderate size and dense foliage make it an excellent choice for hedges and screens.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Firebush
Firebush is native to various regions in the Americas, including Florida, Mexico, and parts of Central and South America. It thrives in open woodlands, hammocks, and disturbed areas, demonstrating its adaptability to different habitats.
Firebush prefers full sun exposure and warm and humid conditions. The plant is reasonably tolerant of various soil types, but it prefers well-draining soil with moderate fertility. Once established, it displays good drought tolerance.
Firebush is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 9 to 11. It can withstand occasional light frost but generally thrives in frost-free regions, making it one of the better flowering bushes for Zone 9.
The tubular flowers are rich in nectar, making them highly attractive to pollinators, including hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. Firebush is one of the flowering perennials for Florida that is a must-have for any butterfly garden.
Being native to various regions in the Americas, Firebush is well-adapted to Florida’s climate and soil conditions, making it a low-maintenance and sustainable choice for landscaping.
Some people think that the perfume of gardenias is just too cloying, but there’s nothing like catching that sweet aroma on the top of the breeze. They’re also prodigious bloomers, perfect for tropical and subtropical gardens.
They’re a bit fussy, so I grow mine in pots
so I can move them during the year to partially shady spots in the summer. They
also like a lot of water, and I find that easier to accomplish in a container.
The luxurious-looking flowers come in a range of white, from stark to cream to nearly yellow, depending on the cultivar. They prefer acidic soil but aren’t too fussy about its density as long as you ensure good drainage.
Gardenia Description
Gardenias have glossy, dark green leaves with an elliptical to ovate shape. And the deep green foliage forms an attractive backdrop for the pristine white flowers, creating a striking contrast.
Gardenia blossoms are typically pure white, with a waxy texture and a beautiful rose-like shape. Its classic beauty makes it one of the most popular flowering plants for Florida.
Gardenias are evergreen shrubs with a bushy growth habit. They can reach a mature height of 3 to 6 feet and a spread of 2 to 4 feet, though you’ll also find dwarf cultivars.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Gardenias
Gardenia jasminoides is native to China and other regions in Asia. In its native habitat, it grows in forests and woodlands, where it enjoys partial shade and a humid environment.
Gardenias prefer partial shade to filtered sunlight. They thrive in well-draining, acidic soil that is rich in organic matter.
Gardenias are well-suited for Florida’s climate and thrive in hardiness zones 8 to 11. They are well-adapted to the state’s warm temperatures and can withstand occasional light frost.
Gardenias typically bloom from late spring through summer, producing a profusion of fragrant white flowers.
Since Gardenias thrive in partial shade, they’re a boon to Florida gardeners with awkward shady spots in their landscape.
Duranta, or Golden Dew Drop (Duranta erecta), is another favorite of pollinators and it adds great flowering drama in any Southern Garden. The weeping branches become covered in tiny purple flowers, which then become bright golden berries – hence the name.
It can get shaggy and overwhelming, but if you’re competent with pruning shears, you can keep it from growing to its max height of 18 feet. I’ve trimmed mine to grow into trees, with hanging branches covered in flowers, because I’m just too impatient for wisteria.
Caveat: The berries on Golden Dew Drop are poisonous to humans, so make sure you keep children from eating them. Luckily, they don’t drop easily, so they’re easy to trim and dispose of regularly.
Golden Dew Drop Description
The Golden Dew Drop’s foliage consists of glossy, elliptic leaves that grow opposite each other along the stems. The foliage is evergreen, providing winter garden interest.
Duranta produces small, tubular flowers that form in pendulous clusters of purple, blue, or white. These flowers are highly attractive to pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. This is one of the most overlooked flowering perennials for Florida.
This flowering bush has a compact and bushy growth habit, typically reaching a mature height of 6 to 12 feet and a spread of 3 to 6 feet.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Golden Dew Drop
Golden Dew Drop is native to tropical regions of the Americas, including parts of Florida, Mexico, and the Caribbean. It thrives in warm and humid climates.
Golden Dew Drop prefers full sun exposure, receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. It is reasonably adaptable to different soil types, but well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is ideal.
Once established, the plant exhibits good tolerance to drought conditions, making it suitable for Florida’s climate.
Duranta thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11, which align perfectly with Florida’s tropical to subtropical climate. It can withstand occasional frosts, further contributing to its suitability for Florida landscaping.
Golden Dew Drop typically blooms from late spring to fall, offering an extended flowering season that attracts an array of pollinators. Its nectar-rich flowers draw bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Additionally, some species of Lepidoptera use it as a host plant for their larvae, supporting the life cycle of these insects.
Hibiscus gives your landscape a tropical
feel, but some hardy types will do well up to Zone 4. In the South, we can
usually grow both hardy and tropical hibiscus, which offers so much beauty for
little effort.
Hardy hibiscus is a slower-growing flowering bush, but they’re easy to care for. They’re one of the most popular flowering perennials for Florida, because they thrive in all corners of the state.
They like full sun and plenty of moisture and mulch. However, you won’t have to prune them as frequently as the tropical type. Best of all, hummingbirds love them.
Hardy Hibiscus Description
Hardy Hibiscus has heart-shaped leaves with a serrated edge and a deep green color. The leaves are usually quite large, ranging from 4 to 8 inches in length.
Hardy Hibiscus offers striking flowers, which are among the largest of any hardy perennial. The blossoms can reach up to 8 inches in diameter and come in a variety of colors, including shades of white, pink, red, and even bi-color combinations. These eye-catching flowers have prominent stamens and attract pollinators with their abundant nectar.
Hardy Hibiscus has a bushy growth habit, reaching a mature height of 4 to 7 feet and a spread of 3 to 6 feet, depending on the specific cultivar and growing conditions.
In temperate climates, the plant dies back to the ground in winter and regrows from the roots each spring.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Hardy Hibiscus
Hardy Hibiscus is native to North America and is commonly found in wetlands, marshes, and along riverbanks. It thrives in areas with adequate moisture and is well-adapted to various soil conditions.
For optimal growth and abundant flowering, Hardy Hibiscus prefers full sun exposure. It tolerates a wide range of soil types, including clay and loam, as long as the soil is well-draining.
Although it is naturally found in wetland habitats, it can tolerate periods of drought once established.
Hardy Hibiscus is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 4 to 9. It is a tough and resilient plant that can withstand colder temperatures.
Florida Native Hardy Hibiscus
There are several varieties that are native to Florida that can be grown in Zones 8-11.
Scarlet Mallow (Hibiscus coccineus)
One Florida native species of hardy hibiscus is the Scarlet Mallow or Hibiscus coccineus. This native hibiscus is well-adapted to Florida’s wetland habitats and can be found in marshes, swamps, and along riverbanks. It is also commonly known as the Swamp Rose Mallow or Crimson-eyed Rose Mallow.
Hibiscus coccineus is known for its striking red flowers, which have a deep crimson eye in the center. The flowers are large and showy, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant’s foliage is also appealing, with deeply lobed, maple-like leaves.
As a native species, Swamp Rose Mallow is an excellent choice for Florida landscaping, as it is well-suited to the state’s climate and soil conditions. It can thrive in both sunny and partially shaded areas, and it can tolerate periods of standing water, making it an ideal choice for rain gardens and other wetland landscaping projects.
Additionally, native flowering plants for Florida provide valuable habitat and food for local wildlife, further enhancing their ecological value in the garden.
Salt Marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica)
Salt Marsh Mallow is another native hibiscus species found in Florida. It is commonly referred to as Seashore Mallow or Virginia Saltmarsh Mallow. This hibiscus species is well-adapted to coastal habitats, including salt marshes, coastal dunes, and brackish wetlands, making it suitable for areas near the coast.
Salt Marsh Mallow features heart-shaped, green leaves with serrated edges. The leaves are soft and velvety to the touch. The flowers are typically pale pink to lavender in color and have five petals arranged in a funnel shape. The blooms are attractive to pollinators like bees and butterflies.
If you’re looking for pink flowering bushes in Florida, Salt Marsh Mallow is a sustainable choice. This herbaceous perennial plant has an upright growth habit. It can reach a height of 3 to 6 feet. As the name suggests, it thrives in salt marshes and other coastal areas where it can tolerate brackish water and saline soil conditions.
Salt Marsh Mallow typically grows in hardiness zones 8 to 11. Salt Marsh Mallow is ideal for landscapes near the coast, where it can thrive in saline conditions and contribute to coastal ecosystem restoration projects. The dense growth of Salt Marsh Mallow helps stabilize sandy soils, offering some erosion control benefits in vulnerable areas as well as contributing to the preservation of local biodiversity.
9. Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.)
Bougainvillea captivates with its brilliant display of colors. This plant is commonly referred to as Paper Flower, Bougie, or simply Bougainvillea.
Bougainvillea features ovate to heart-shaped leaves with a smooth texture and a glossy appearance. The leaves are typically small and green, acting as a beautiful backdrop to the striking floral bracts that surround the inconspicuous flowers.
The true flowers are actually small and white, while the colorful bracts steal the show. What makes Bougainvillea truly exceptional are the vibrant papery bracts, which can appear in a stunning array of colors, including magenta, purple, red, pink, orange, and white.
Bougainvillea is a vigorous and fast-growing shrubby vine that can climb or trail, depending on its support structure. It can reach a mature height of 15 to 30 feet or more, and its spread can vary widely based on the cultivar and growing conditions. Some varieties can be pruned and trained as a shrub or small tree.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea originates from South America, specifically the regions of Brazil, Peru, and Argentina. It thrives in warm and tropical climates, which makes it well-suited for Florida’s subtropical environment.
Bougainvillea is a sun-loving plant that thrives in hot and humid conditions. The plant is relatively drought-tolerant once established, but regular watering is necessary to promote consistent flowering. Well-draining soil is essential to prevent waterlogged conditions.
Bougainvillea is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 9 to 11. It is a tropical plant that can withstand occasional light frost.
Bougainvillea is a profuse bloomer, with its colorful bracts persisting for an extended period from spring to fall. The striking bracts are rich in nectar, attracting bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to the garden.
Once established, Bougainvillea exhibits good drought tolerance, making it suitable for sustainable Florida-friendly landscape designs.
Although it sounds like a Victorian disease of the aged, Plumbago auriculatais a real doer in the garden if you take time to establish it properly.
This flowering bush explodes after the first year
and is covered with blue flowers that resemble phlox. Bees seem to adore it, so
it’s worth adding to any Southern pollinator garden.
You can plant it out at any time of year in Zone 9 and higher, and it will flower all year round. Note that it can be a pretty hungry plant, though it seems pretty tolerant of drought. Feed it well the first year, and it will grow at a disconcerting rate of speed. Forget to feed it, and you’ll get a yellow and sad-looking scrubby bush.
You can also find a white variety (alba) that to me seems less vigorous than the blue types. I’ve struggled to grow the white type from cuttings, while the blue takes pretty easily.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Cape Plumbago
Cape Plumbago originates from South Africa, specifically the Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, and Mpumalanga provinces. In its native habitat, it thrives in a variety of environments, from coastal dunes to mountain slopes, displaying its adaptability.
Plumbago auriculata prefers full sun exposure for the best flowering performance, but it can also tolerate partial shade. It thrives in well-draining soil that remains consistently moist but not waterlogged. Once established, it displays moderate drought tolerance.
Cape Plumbago is well-suited for Florida’s climate and thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11. Its ability to endure mild cold spells while thriving in tropical to subtropical climates makes it an excellent landscaping choice for Florida.
Plumbago blooms from late spring through fall, providing an extended flowering period. The nectar-rich flowers are highly attractive to butterflies, which will visit the plant frequently, supporting the local population.
Technically known as Tibouchina urvillena, Princess Flower is a gorgeous tropical flowering bush that grows well in Zones 9 to 11. Although it may reach tree-like stature, most Southern gardeners keep it trimmed to bush size.
It will die back if exposed to frost, but in lower zones, you can cover it on nights it gets below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. And it is also suitable for containers for overwintering indoors in cooler climes.
It also doesn’t like to sit in the wind, so plant it in a protected corner.
Princess Flower can be thirsty, but it’s worth the effort. They’re also shade-tolerant, and I’ve found that mine does poorly in the scalding, Zone 10 summer sun, so I give it partial shade.
It’s a tropical plant, so it’s used to rich soil; you’ll need to feed it regularly during the growing season. I feed mine a high nitrogen fertilizer once all risk of frost is gone and then switch to a high-potassium formula when it warms enough to flower.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Tibouchina
Princess Flower originates from Brazil, where it is native to the Atlantic Rainforest region. It thrives in the warm, humid climates of its native habitat. It’s one of the most flowering plants for South Florida
For the best growth and flowering performance, Princess Flower prefers full to partial sun exposure. It may produce fewer blooms if there is too much shade.
The plant thrives in well-draining soil that retains moisture but does not become waterlogged. Adequate watering and mulching help maintain soil moisture, especially during dry periods.
Tibouchina urvilleana is well-adapted to Florida’s climate and thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11. It can tolerate occasional light frost while flourishing in tropical to subtropical climates makes it an excellent choice for Florida landscaping.
Princess Flower blooms from late spring through fall, with peak flowering usually occurring in late summer. The striking flowers attract various pollinators, including butterflies and hummingbirds, contributing to the garden’s biodiversity.
Popular in coastal gardens along the Gulf of Mexico, tropical hibiscus gives a very Caribbean feel to your landscaping. While most cultivars are hardy in Zones 10 and 11, you can easily nurse them through winters up to Zone 8.
Like hardy varieties, they love full sun and plenty of water. Mulch them heavily to keep them thriving.
Tropical Hibiscus has glossy, dark green leaves with a leathery texture, and they serve as an attractive backdrop for the striking flowers. In some cultivars, the foliage may have variations in color, such as burgundy-tinged edges or variegated patterns, adding to its visual appeal.
Tropical Hibiscus boasts large, showy, trumpet-shaped flowers, which come in a array of colors. These blossoms may appear in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow, and even white. Some cultivars feature captivating color combinations and intricate patterns on the petals, making each flower a unique work of art.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis has a relatively compact growth habit, making it suitable for both container planting and landscaping. It can reach a mature height of 4 to 8 feet and a spread of 3 to 6 feet, depending on the variety and growing conditions.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Tropical Hibiscus
Tropical Hibiscus originates from East Asia, particularly China and has spread to many tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including Florida.
Tropical Hibiscus requires full sun exposure. It flourishes in well-draining soil with consistent moisture levels.
Tropical Hibiscus is suited for hardiness zones 9 to 11. Its preference for warm temperatures and ability to withstand mild frost make it a popular choice for Florida landscapes.
Tropical Hibiscus produces an abundance of showy flowers throughout the warm months, with peak blooming occurring in spring and summer. The nectar-rich blossoms attract various pollinators, such as bees and butterflies.
Thriving in warm and humid climates, Tropical Hibiscus is perfectly adapted to Florida’s conditions, making it a low-maintenance and sustainable flowering bush to add to the landscape.
How to Pick the Best Flowering Bushes for Florida
It should be easy to find flowering plants for Florida, including flowering shrubs and vines. Our subtropical climate is a garden designer’s dream because we can grow such a wide variety of ornamental landscape plants.
Check your local home improvement store or nursery to find starters or seeds. You can also purchase them in 1, 3, and 5-gallon size containers if you want instant gratification. One advantage to this is that you know what they’ll look like when they bloom and can take cuttings immediately to propagate.
You can also purchase online from nurseries. We frequently carry some of these varieties in our shop and in our Etsy store.
Patience pays off when it comes to flowering shrubs. Once they’ve gotten established, the best flowering bushes for Florida will bloom year after year, attracting bees and butterflies into your garden and giving your landscape real curb appeal. your perennial garden plants will bloom year after year.
Bougainvillea (pronounced boo-guhn-VIL-yuh) is a stunning and vibrant flowering plant that originates from the tropical and subtropical regions of South America. Named after the French navigator Louis Antoine de Bougainville, who discovered the plant in Brazil during the 18th century, bougainvillea is now widely cultivated for its breathtaking display of color.
Bougainvillea is a vigorous and woody vine that can either climb or sprawl depending on its surroundings. It features glossy green leaves that are ovate in shape and slightly textured. The foliage provides a lush and verdant backdrop to the magnificent flowers that steal the show.
What we often perceive as bougainvillea’s flowers are, in fact, modified leaves called bracts. The true flowers of the plant are small and inconspicuous, nestled within the center of the bracts. These bracts come in a wide range of vibrant colors, including shades of pink, purple, red, orange, yellow, and white, creating a dazzling visual spectacle.
The showy bracts serve an important purpose for bougainvillea. They help attract pollinators like bees and butterflies to the true flowers concealed within. Once pollinated, the true flowers give way to small, inconspicuous fruit that contains tiny seeds.
Bougainvillea is perennial in mild climates, providing years of vibrant beauty to your garden. With proper care and maintenance, it can reach an impressive height of 15 to 30 feet and spread out over a similar distance, creating a sprawling and eye-catching display of color.
Bougainvillea Varieties: Dwarf, Semi-Dwarf, and Extra Large
Bougainvillea cultivars come in various sizes, allowing you to choose the perfect fit for your garden or landscape.
Dwarf Bougainvillea
Dwarf Dougainvillea
Dwarf bougainvillea varieties are compact and well-suited for smaller gardens, containers, or areas where space is limited. They offer all the beauty of bougainvillea in a more manageable size range.
Popular Dwarf Bougainvillea Cultivars
‘Helen Johnson’: This dwarf variety features stunning magenta-pink bracts and a compact growth habit. It reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet and is perfect for borders or small spaces.
‘La Jolla’: ‘La Jolla’ displays vibrant pink bracts and has a trailing habit, making it an excellent choice for hanging baskets or cascading over walls. It grows to a height of 2 to 3 feet.
‘Pixie Queen’: With its variegated bracts in shades of pink and white, ‘Pixie Queen’ adds a touch of elegance to any garden. It has a bushy growth habit and reaches a height of 2 to 3 feet.
‘Vera Purple’: This dwarf cultivar boasts intense purple bracts and a compact, rounded growth habit. It is well-suited for borders or containers, growing up to 3 to 4 feet in height.
‘Tango’: ‘Tango’ offers vibrant orange bracts and a semi-dwarf growth habit. It is a prolific bloomer and reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet, making it an eye-catching addition to any landscape.
‘Singapore Pink’: This dwarf variety showcases delicate pink bracts and a low, spreading growth habit. It grows to a height of 2 to 3 feet, making it ideal for ground cover or rock gardens.
Semi-Dwarf Bougainvillea
Semi-dwarf bougainvillea varieties offer a balance between compact size and impressive floral displays. They are well-suited for hedges, trellises, or as standalone specimens.
Popular Semi-Dwarf Bougainvillea Cultivars
‘Torch Red’: With its vibrant red bracts, ‘Torch Red’ adds a fiery splash of color to the garden. It has a semi-dwarf growth habit, reaching a height of 4 to 6 feet, and is perfect for accentuating fences or arbors.
‘Double Gold’: This semi-dwarf cultivar features double-layered bracts in a dazzling golden-yellow hue. It has a bushy growth habit and grows to a height of 4 to 5 feet.
‘Raspberry Ice’: ‘Raspberry Ice’ displays striking raspberry-pink bracts with white accents. It has a semi-dwarf growth habit and reaches a height of 4 to 5 feet, making it a standout choice for borders or containers.
‘California Gold’: With its brilliant golden-yellow bracts, ‘California Gold’ adds a touch of warmth to the garden. It has a semi-dwarf growth habit, growing up to 4 to 6 feet in height.
‘Sundown Orange’: This semi-dwarf variety showcases vibrant orange bracts and a compact growth habit. It reaches a height of 4 to 5 feet, making it an attractive choice for landscaping or container planting.
‘Double Pink’: ‘Double Pink’ offers beautiful double-layered pink bracts and a semi-dwarf growth habit. It grows to a height of 4 to 6 feet and is a charming addition to any garden or patio.
Extra Large Bougainvillea
Extra large bougainvillea varieties make a bold statement in the landscape with their impressive size and profusion of colorful bracts. They are ideal for creating focal points or providing maximum coverage.
Popular Extra Large Bougainvillea Cultivars
‘Spectabilis’: ‘Spectabilis’ showcases stunning magenta bracts and has a vigorous climbing habit. It can reach a towering height of 20 to 30 feet, adding a dramatic touch to arbors or pergolas.
‘San Diego Red’: This extra large variety features brilliant red bracts and a sprawling growth habit. It can reach a height and spread of 15 to 25 feet, creating a breathtaking display in the landscape.
‘Purple Queen’: ‘Purple Queen’ offers vibrant purple bracts and a climbing habit. It can grow up to 20 to 30 feet in height, making it a striking choice for trellises or fences.
‘Royal Purple’: With its rich purple bracts, ‘Royal Purple’ adds regal beauty to any garden. It has a vigorous climbing habit and can reach a height of 20 to 30 feet.
‘Miss Alice’: This extra large cultivar displays pure white bracts and a sprawling growth habit. It can grow up to 15 to 25 feet in height and spread, creating a stunning display against dark green foliage.
‘Rosenka’: ‘Rosenka’ offers unique apricot-colored bracts and a climbing habit. It can reach a height and spread of 20 to 30 feet, adding a warm and inviting touch to trellises or walls.
Ideal Growing Conditions for Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea thrives in hot and humid subtropical climates, making it an ideal choice for gardeners in the southern regions of the United States. It flourishes in regions with warm summers and mild winters, where temperatures rarely drop below freezing.
It is most commonly grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11, encompassing areas such as the Gulf Coast, Southern Florida, and parts of California and Arizona.
To ensure the successful growth and blooming of your bougainvillea, it’s crucial to provide it with the optimal growing conditions. Here are the key factors to consider:
Type of Climate Required
Temperature
Bougainvillea thrives in temperatures between 60°F (15°C) and 90°F (32°C), with temperatures around 70°F to 85°F (21°C to 29°C) being ideal for growth and blooming.
It is important to protect the plant from freezing temperatures, as they can damage or kill it. If you live in an area prone to frost, consider growing bougainvillea in containers that can be moved indoors during colder months.
Temperature Tolerance
When temperatures consistently drop below 50°F (10°C), bougainvillea’s growth may slow down or temporarily cease. However, it can resume growth when warmer conditions return.
Temperatures below 32°F can cause damage to bougainvillea. Prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures can result in wilting, leaf discoloration, leaf drop, and damage to the stems and branches. In severe cases, it can lead to plant death.
Bougainvillea can tolerate high temperatures, but extreme heat, especially above 100°F, can stress the plant. It may result in wilting, scorched leaves, reduced blooming, and overall decline. Providing shade or ensuring adequate hydration during hot spells can help mitigate the effects of excessive heat.
Free pink flower and window image, public domain spring CC0 photo.
Humidity
Bougainvillea appreciates moderate to high humidity levels, which are typically found in subtropical regions.
If you live in a drier climate, you can increase humidity around the plant by misting it regularly or placing a tray filled with water near the plant to create a humid microclimate.
Sunlight Exposure
Bougainvillea thrives in full sunlight. It requires at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day to produce an abundance of colorful bracts. Choose a location in your garden that receives ample sunlight and is not shaded by trees or buildings.
Ensure you plant bougainvillea in a location with maximum exposure to sunlight.
Soil Type
Bougainvillea prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Sandy loam or loamy soil is ideal for bougainvillea cultivation. If your soil is heavy or clay-like, consider improving its drainage and fertility by adding compost or well-rotted manure.
Bougainvillea thrives in slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Conduct a soil test to determine the pH of your garden soil. If the pH is outside the preferred range, adjust it by adding amendments.
For increasing acidity, use elemental sulfur, and for increasing alkalinity, add dolomite lime.
When and How to Plant Bougainvillea
The best time to plant bougainvillea in the ground is during the warm months of spring or early summer when the soil has warmed up and all danger of frost has passed. This allows the plant to establish its roots before the colder months arrive.
However, if you live in a region with mild winters, planting can also be done in fall.
Planting Bougainvillea Step-by-Step
When you’re ready to plant your bougainvillea, follow these steps:
Find a Good Location
Choose a location in your garden that receives full sunlight and has well-draining soil. Ensure there is enough space for the bougainvillea to grow and spread comfortably.
Prepare the Soil
Amend the soil by incorporating organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. This helps improve soil fertility, drainage, and water-holding capacity. Remove any weeds or debris from the planting area.
Dig the Planting Hole
Dig a hole that is twice as wide and deep as the bougainvillea’s root ball. This allows the roots to spread out easily. Ensure the hole is deep enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending or crowding.
Remove the Plant from its Container
Gently tap the sides of the container to loosen the root ball. Carefully slide the plant out, holding it by the base of the stems.
Planting the Bougainvillea
Place the root ball in the center of the planting hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the soil surface.
Backfill the hole with soil, firming it gently around the roots to eliminate air pockets.
Watering and Mulching
After planting, thoroughly water the bougainvillea to settle the soil and encourage root establishment.
Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or straw, around the base of the plant, leaving a small gap around the stems to prevent rotting.
Care and Maintenance of Bougainvillea
Once you’ve planted your bougainvillea, you’ll want to make sure it thrives.
Watering Throughout the Year
During the active growing seasons of spring and summer, water bougainvillea deeply and thoroughly, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Aim to provide regular, consistent moisture without waterlogging the roots.
Reduce watering frequency during the dormant period around late fall through the winter. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out more between waterings.
However, ensure the plant doesn’t experience prolonged drought stress, especially as temperatures begin to rise in February.
Optimal Fertilizer Composition and Schedule:
Fertilize your bougainvillea according to its stage of development and the needs of the season.
Spring
Use a balanced fertilizer with equal NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratios or a slightly higher nitrogen content.
Apply the fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks during the active growing season.
Summer
Switch to a bloom-boosting fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content to promote abundant flowering. Apply every 6 to 8 weeks.
Fall and Winter
Reduce or suspend fertilization during the dormant period. Bougainvillea generally requires less fertilizer during this time.
Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package for specific application rates and guidelines. Then, adjust fertilization based on the plant’s response and the quality of your soil.
Protecting Bougainvillea from Cold
Even though we can grow tropical plants, we can still get the occasional cold snap in Florida and in states around the Gulf Coast.
Our normally mild winters can even mean that a cold snap is that much more devastating to plants that aren’t equipped to deal with them.
How you protect your bougainvillea will vary depending on how long the cold snap is predicted to last.
Watering
If you’ve lived in Florida for any length of time, you know how insane our weather can be. In the winter, for example, the temperature during the day could be 85°F and then sink to 38°F during the night, usually with the lowest temperature right before sunrise.
This happens several times a year in Central Florida, sometimes in December, but usually in January and February.
If the forecast is for a brief overnight cold snap, you should water your bougainvillea well during the warmth of the day prior.
The moist ground will store the warmth of the sun during the day, carrying through the night. So, make sure you water as early as possible to make the most of the sunlight.
If the cold period is predicted to last through daylight hours or last for several nights, excess moisture in the soil is a bad thing. So, in that case, do not water your bougainvillea during cold days or when it will be below 40°F for several nights in a row.
Whether your water or not, it’s a good idea to apply a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant, extending it to cover the root zone. This helps insulate the soil and protect the roots from extreme cold.
Covering
Before the arrival of frost or freezing temperatures, cover the bougainvillea plant with a frost blanket or horticultural fabric. Secure the cover to the ground to create a protective barrier against cold winds.
I generally try to cover my plants well before sunset and the warmth of the day fade.
Container Plants
If you have bougainvillea in containers, move them to a sheltered location, such as a garage or greenhouse, during periods of freezing temperatures.
Pruning Bougainvillea for Optimal Growth and Shape
Pruning bougainvillea is essential for maintaining its shape, encouraging healthy growth, and promoting abundant flowering. Here’s a guide on how and when to prune your bougainvillea:
Timing of Pruning:
The best time to prune bougainvillea is during late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing allows the plant to recover and produce new shoots and blooms during the active growing season. However, minor pruning to remove dead or damaged branches can be done throughout the year. You may also need to prune it to keep it under control.
Tools Needed:
Pruning shears or sharp bypass hand pruners
Gardening gloves
Loppers or a pruning saw for thicker branches (if necessary)
Disinfectant solution (such as rubbing alcohol or bleach) to sterilize your pruning tools (before and after use) to prevent the spread of diseases.
The Pruning Process
Pruning bougainvillea while avoiding the thorns.
Follow these steps to prune your bougainvillea effectively:
Step 1: Assess the Plant:
Observe your bougainvillea and identify the branches that need to be pruned. Look for dead, damaged, or diseased branches, as well as any overly long or unruly growth that needs shaping.
Step 2: Prepare Your Tools:
Ensure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. Sterilize them with a disinfectant solution to prevent the spread of diseases from one plant to another.
Step 3: Prune Dead or Damaged Branches:
Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Make clean cuts just above a healthy bud or side branch, using sharp pruning shears. Cut at a slight angle to allow water to drain off the wound.
Step 4: Control the Plant’s Size and Shape:
To maintain the desired size and shape of your bougainvillea, selectively prune long or unruly branches. Identify branches that are extending beyond the desired boundaries or obstructing walkways, fences, or structures. Make pruning cuts just above a bud or side branch, leaving a stub of the branch to promote new growth.
Step 5: Thinning Out the Canopy (Optional)
If your bougainvillea is dense and overcrowded, you may consider thinning out the canopy to improve airflow and light penetration. Remove some of the interior branches to open up the plant and reduce the risk of pests or diseases.
Step 6: Clean Up and Disinfect:
After pruning, gather and remove the pruned branches and debris from the area. Dispose of them properly. Clean and disinfect your pruning tools with a sterilizing solution to prevent the spread of diseases.
Step 7: Post-Pruning Care:
After pruning, water your bougainvillea thoroughly to help it recover and encourage new growth. Apply a balanced fertilizer to provide the necessary nutrients for the plant’s recovery.
Remember, bougainvillea blooms on new growth, so avoid excessive pruning that removes too many potential blooming branches. Pruning should focus on maintaining the plant’s shape, removing dead or damaged branches, and promoting healthy growth.
Propagating Bouganvillea Cheap and Easy
The method works for me, so thanks to David the Good for this video.
Common Pests, Diseases, and Special Care for Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea, like any other plant, can be susceptible to certain pests, diseases, and specific care requirements. Here’s a breakdown of common pests, diseases, and special care for bougainvillea:
Common Bougainvillea Pests
Aphids
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed on plant sap, causing leaves to curl, yellow, or become distorted. To remedy aphid infestations, you can:
Spray a strong stream of water on the affected plant parts to dislodge the aphids.
Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil following the product instructions.
Introduce natural predators like ladybugs or lacewings to control aphid populations.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars, such as the bougainvillea looper or cabbage looper, can chew on leaves, causing significant damage. To remedy caterpillar infestations, you can:
Handpick and remove caterpillars from the plant.
Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a biological insecticide that targets caterpillars.
Use insecticidal sprays labeled for caterpillar control, following the product instructions.
Whiteflies
Whiteflies are tiny, sap-sucking insects that cluster on the undersides of leaves, causing yellowing, leaf drop, and a sticky residue called honeydew. To remedy whitefly infestations, you can:
Use yellow sticky traps to capture adult whiteflies.
Spray the affected foliage with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, ensuring thorough coverage.
Encourage natural predators like parasitic wasps or ladybugs to control whitefly populations.
Common Bougainvillea Diseases
Leaf Spot
Leaf spot diseases, caused by fungi, manifest as dark spots or lesions on the foliage. To remedy leaf spot diseases, you can:
Prune and remove affected plant parts to improve airflow and reduce disease spread.
Apply copper-based fungicides according to the product instructions.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves, stems, and flowers. To remedy powdery mildew, you can:
Prune and thin out the plant to improve airflow.
Apply fungicides labeled for powdery mildew control, following the product instructions.
Root Rot
Root rot is a fungal disease caused by overly wet or poorly draining soil. It leads to root decay, wilting, and overall decline of the plant. To remedy root rot, you can:
Improve soil drainage by amending the soil with organic matter.
Adjust watering practices to avoid waterlogging the roots.
Apply fungicides labeled for root rot control, following the product instructions.
Special Needs and Care for Bougainvillea
Pruning and Training
Regular pruning is essential for maintaining shape, promoting airflow, and removing dead or diseased branches. Train bougainvillea to climb or grow in a desired direction using trellises, fences, or stakes.
Support for Climbing Varieties
If you have climbing varieties, provide proper support structures like trellises, arbors, or wires to guide the vines and prevent damage to nearby structures.
Winter Protection in Colder Zones
In regions with colder winters, protect bougainvillea from freezing temperatures by covering with frost blankets, moving potted plants indoors, or providing a sheltered location.
Landscape Design Ideas and Companion Plants for Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea’s vibrant colors and sprawling growth make it a fantastic addition to any landscape design in subtropical regions. Here are some design ideas and appropriate companion plants to complement bougainvillea.
Design Ideas Using Bougainvillea:
Colorful Fences and Walls
Use bougainvillea to add a splash of color and create a living tapestry along fences or walls. The vibrant bracts will create an eye-catching display and provide a beautiful backdrop for your outdoor space.
Pergolas and Trellises
Train bougainvillea vines to climb and adorn pergolas, trellises, or arbors. The cascading bracts will create a stunning overhead canopy, providing shade and a vibrant atmosphere.
Plant bougainvillea in large containers or pots to add a vibrant focal point to patios, balconies, or entryways. Choose compact or dwarf varieties to keep the plant size manageable and ensure it thrives in the container environment.
Courtyard Gardens
Create a Mediterranean-inspired oasis in your courtyard by incorporating bougainvillea. Use it as a backdrop for a tranquil seating area or plant it in containers for a burst of color amidst lush greenery.
Hedge or Border Planting
For privacy or to define garden boundaries, consider planting bougainvillea as a hedge or border. Prune it regularly to maintain a desired height and shape while enjoying its colorful display.
Plumbago’s delicate blue flowers provide a lovely contrast to the bold colors of bougainvillea. It is a versatile shrub that can be used as a low hedge or ground cover, adding depth and texture to the garden.
Mexican Flame Vine (Senecio confusus):
With its cascading orange or red flowers, Mexican Flame Vine creates a stunning combination when paired with bougainvillea. Allow it to climb or trail through the bougainvillea for a captivating display.
Dwarf bottlebrush is known for its vibrant, brush-like flowers in shades of red, pink, or yellow. Planted alongside bougainvillea, it adds height variation and attracts pollinators to the garden.
Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis):
Hibiscus and bougainvillea together create a tropical paradise. The large, showy flowers of hibiscus complement the bracts of bougainvillea, enhancing the overall visual impact of the landscape.
Bush Morning Glory (Convolvulus cneorum):
With its silver foliage and delicate white flowers, bush morning glory offers a beautiful contrast to the vibrant bracts of bougainvillea. Plant it as a low-growing ground cover or in containers.
When selecting companion plants for bougainvillea, consider their sunlight, water, and soil requirements to ensure they are compatible. Aim for a harmonious combination that enhances the visual appeal and complements the colors and textures of bougainvillea.
Bougainvillea can be incorporated into various landscape designs, from vibrant walls and fences to container plantings and courtyards. Pairing it with appropriate companion plants adds depth and creates a visually stunning garden.
The Beauty and Versatility of Bougainvillea in Your Garden
Bougainvillea, with its vibrant and abundant display of colorful bracts, is a true gem for subtropical gardens in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Its versatility, resilience, and stunning visual appeal make it a cherished addition to any landscape design. Bougainvillea’s ability to thrive in hot and humid climates, coupled with its preference for full sunlight, allows it to create a striking visual impact on walls, fences, trellises, and in containers. Whether used as a focal point, a living tapestry, or a cascading canopy, bougainvillea adds a touch of tropical beauty and splendor to outdoor spaces. With proper care, pruning, and companion planting, bougainvillea can transform your garden into a vibrant paradise, captivating the senses with its vivid colors and exuberant blooms. So, embrace the beauty of bougainvillea and let it infuse your garden with its warmth, charm, and botanical splendor.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Bougainvillea
Do bougainvillea like acidic soil?
Yes, bougainvillea prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0.
Do bougainvillea like coffee grounds?
Coffee grounds can be beneficial for bougainvillea as they help to slightly acidify the soil, which is favorable for their growth.
Is bougainvillea poisonous to dogs?
While bougainvillea is generally considered non-toxic to dogs, it’s always best to keep pets from ingesting any part of the plant to avoid potential digestive issues.
Do bougainvillea like sun or shade?
Bougainvillea thrives in full sunlight and requires at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal growth and blooming.
Is bougainvillea better in pots or ground?
Bougainvillea can be grown both in pots and in the ground. However, they require proper care and attention in containers to ensure adequate drainage and regular watering.
How do you keep bougainvillea alive in the winter?
In colder regions, protect bougainvillea from freezing temperatures by covering them with frost blankets, moving potted plants indoors, or providing a sheltered location.
Do bougainvillea bloom year-round?
Bougainvillea typically blooms in cycles, producing vibrant bracts for several months at a time. While they may have intermittent blooms throughout the year, they don’t usually bloom year-round.
Do hummingbirds like bougainvillea?
Yes, hummingbirds are attracted to the bright and showy bracts of bougainvillea, making it a favorite plant to attract these delightful birds to your garden.
Does bougainvillea attract rodents?
Bougainvillea itself does not attract rodents. However, rodents may seek shelter in the dense foliage if the plant is grown against structures or near their nesting areas.
What month is best to plant bougainvillea?
Spring is the ideal time to plant bougainvillea, as the warmer temperatures and longer daylight hours promote healthy root establishment and growth.
Do bougainvillea need lots of water?
Bougainvillea prefers regular watering but should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Avoid overwatering, as it can lead to root rot and other issues.
How do you get bougainvillea to spread?
Bougainvillea naturally spreads through its vining growth habit. You can encourage lateral spreading by pruning and training the plant, or by providing support structures for the vines to grow horizontally.
How do I keep my bougainvillea blooming all summer?
To keep bougainvillea blooming throughout the summer, ensure it receives adequate sunlight, provide regular watering, and fertilize appropriately during the active growing season.
How do you keep bougainvillea bushy?
Regular pruning helps to keep bougainvillea bushy and encourages branching. Prune back long or unruly branches to promote a compact and bushy growth habit.
Do you cut back bougainvillea?
Yes, bougainvillea benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape, remove dead or diseased branches, and promote new growth. Pruning is typically done in late winter or early spring.
What does an overwatered bougainvillea look like?
An overwatered bougainvillea may exhibit yellowing leaves, wilting, root rot, and a general decline in health. The soil may feel excessively wet or waterlogged.
How often should bougainvillea be trimmed?
Bougainvillea can be trimmed as needed to control its size and shape. Major pruning is typically done once a year in late winter or early spring, but minor pruning for maintenance can be done throughout the year.
Featured Image via Wikimedia 阿橋 HQ, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
if you’re a Florida gardener, not just any gardening YouTuber will give you the information you need. Florida is so weird, the Farmer’s Almanac print version actually has an entirely separate section devoted to our whacky planting schedule. Gardening in Zones 9-11 is difficult enough, but gardening on the Gulf Coast is just “special.” What you need is Florida gardening YouTube video channels.
Gardening channels on YouTube have really exploded over the last five years. Many of my favorite YouTubers have gone from tiny suburban gardens to purchasing big ol’ homesteads. And I’m guessing that the popularity of their channels has a lot to do with that.
But which Florida gardening YouTube channels are the best? Which of the many garden YouTubers really, TRULY understands the struggle of gardening in the Gulf Coast region?
Because the struggle is real.
While the rest of the country watches their sweet corn reaching for the clouds, we’re hiding inside behind hurricane shutters.
While temperate climate gardeners are dumping zucchini anonymously on doorsteps throughout their neighborhoods, we’re tossing the blackened, shriveled stumps of our failed summer squash into the compost heap.
Again.
Many of us have turned to YouTube for help and instruction.
If you’re new to gardening in Florida or new to YouTube garden videos, I’m happy to help you find the best Florida gardening YouTube channels. As much as I love classic shows like PBS’s Victory Garden and BBC’s Gardeners World, let’s face it: very little of the content on either show has anything to do with Zone 9-11 gardening.
So, Which Are the Best Florida Gardening YouTubers?
The best YouTubers all have their own special gifts and perspectives to add to the conversation. So, I’ll start with my top choices, and you can decide who your own favorites are.
Here is a list of my favorites that I’ve been watching over the last four or five years. While not all of them are specifically for Florida, much of their content is relevant to our interests. They’re on the Gulf Coast or garden in a subtropical climate.
7. Wild Floridian
I can’t believe it took me so long to find “Wild Floridian” on YouTube. After all, like me, the presenter is in Zone 10A, and I think she lives a few miles away. So, naturally, she’s a great source of super-local information for me and anyone else living in Central Florida along the coast.
Jacqueline focuses a lot on gardening for pollinators, so she has tons of videos about native Florida plants. And her extensive knowledge isn’t just academic. Her videos are a serious deep-dive demonstration of how to use them in your landscape.
She’s only been on YouTube since 2019, but it’s obvious that she knows a lot about gardening in this region. She’s my top choice when it comes to information on gardening in Florida for wildlife.
6. The Urban Harvest
Elise of Urban Harvest in the Tampa Bay area knows what she’s talking about. While her YouTube channel doesn’t offer a plethora of videos, she also offers more information on her website.
She also has a seed club that sends you seeds for plants that are timed right for our unusual growing cycles. She also offers classes on garden planning, composting, and other topics.
Elise is one of the few Florida gardening YouTubers that really understands how to work with our wonky seasons and unique (i.e. humid) conditions. She’s also extremely knowledgeable about those little-known alternative vegetables and herbs that grow easily here.
When I first reviewed The Urban Harvest on this blog, Elise only had a few dozen videos on YouTube. Now, she has over 100. Most are short and to the point, which I think is a positive attribute when I’m looking for information.
5. Scott Head / Black Gumbo
Sometimes, the best Florida gardening YouTube channels aren’t run by Floridians. In this case, Scott Head lives in Coastal Texas, along the Gulf, in Zone 9a. So, he has a good idea of what kind of climate and growing calendar we use in Florida.
You’ll find many seasonal videos covering all things edible in the garden, plus some great instructionals on how to cook those things. His blog goes back even further, should you prefer reading to viewing. Sometimes, you just need the deets and don’t have time for chit-chat or garden tours.
He offers an extensive library of information videos about Southern gardening, cooking, and even preserving food. Extra credit for backyard chicken videos.
Southerners are pretty laid back, and sometimes Scott can be a bit too laid back if you’re in a hurry to get answers. But honestly, it’s a nice change of pace from some of the more frantic garden YouTubers I’ve seen.
4. The Millenial Gardener
Another one of my favorite not-Florida gardening YouTube channels with useful info. This YouTuber (can’t find his name anywhere) lives and gardens in 8a on the coast of North Carolina, so definitely subtropical, and definitely a hot & steamy Southern climate.
You’ll certainly learn a lot on this channel. The Millenial Gardener offers tons of tips and hacks for dealing with the downside of gardening in the South. Hacks for heat, humidity, bugs, and disease. His presentation style is simple and scientific, with demonstrations and explanations of how and why they work.
I’ve tried a few of his trick over the last year or two, and every single one has been a winner.
3. Pete Kanaris / GreenDreamsTV
Pete’s nursery and landscaping service, GreenDreams, sits north of Tampa. Along with an extensive array of edible and permaculture-friendly plants, GreenDreams also offers design and installation services.
However, the best thing about Pete’s YouTube channel is that you’ll become inspired. Pete shares his experience of subtropical and tropical edible plants and explains their unique flavors and growing needs. You’re going to want half a dozen of whatever he’s talking about by the time the video is over.
Pete’s a professional plantsman with specialized knowledge of unique and unusual edible and beneficial plants for a Florida landscape. Probably the most knowledgeable Florida gardening YouTube channel you’ll find.
However, you won’t find much about growing the common zucchini on Pete’s channel, although occasionally, he’ll visit with a market gardener, Joe Kowaleski, who grows them. The two have teamed up to produce a vegetable garden masterclass, but it’s pretty expensive unless you’re going pro.
2. Mark Valencia / Self-Sufficient Me
Another great Florida gardening YouTube channel that isn’t filmed in Florida at all — not even close! Mark’s a stay-at-home dad from Australia. But even though he gardens on the other side of the planet, he also gardens in a subtropical climate. Many of the edible fruits and veg you’ll see him plant are the same ones that grow here in Florida.
And believe it or not, he’s got even more intimidating pests than we have!
Mark’s website also features a lot of great information if you’d prefer to read up. He also has an active user forum for sharing information with other gardeners.
Mark’s super knowledgeable about growing in a subtropical and tropical climate without being too academic or pedantic. Mark is as entertaining to watch as he is informative. His relaxed and somewhat hokey style is just what’s called for if you need low-stress gardening entertainment.
Keep in mind that, even though Mark’s climate is very similar to ours, it’s still on the other side of the planet. That means that if you want information for our current season, you need to search back on his channel about six months to find the relevant information.
1. David the Good (Goodman)
I’ve been reading David’s Survival Gardener blog for several years and have even purchased many of his Florida-specific gardening books. But it took the pandemic for me to discover that he also has a YouTube channel. (Granted, it took the pandemic to get me back to YouTube after Vevo took over music videos.)
David’s irreverent humor is obvious in his written work, and it carries over into his videos. His specialty is “survival gardening,” which we can assume means information for preppers when the SHTF. And although he does provide a lot of good prepper info, it’s also excellent information for those of us who simply want to be more sustainable. Sustainable is better for the earth, and it’s cheaper, too. What’s not to love?
Because of his many years of experience, wry style, and deep dives into growing on the cheap (and natural), David gets my vote as the single best Florida gardening YouTube channel to watch. Even though he now lives in Alabama.
David is fun to watch. He provides plenty of actionable information for any type of vegetable gardener, but his wit is much appreciated. His gardening experiments are especially helpful. He always seems to have plenty of land to play with new methods and new crops.
Who Are Your Favorites?
Those are my top picks for the best Florida gardening YouTube channels to watch. More specifically, they’re my top five picks for Florida gardeners, since not all of the Tubers involved are in Florida.
If you have a favorite Florida-specific gardening channel on YouTube, please let me know. I’m always interested to see what else is available on the platform.
If you’ve been paying attention to the weather forecast, it’s likely that the last thing on your mind is what to plant in July in Florida. The heat indexes have easily been in the triple digits, and the rainfall reports are way down.
The good news is that if you’re just as addicted to gardening as I am, there are a few things you can do to feed that urge, even in all this heat.
That’s right, Florida gardeners — it’s July! It’s not time to get back into the garden quite yet, but it IS time to start collecting supplies and sowing seeds indoors and under cover.
It’s time to get ready for the fall garden. Start stocking up on your favorite seeds and get cracking. It’s go time.
It’s Time to Get Seeding!
We had a ridiculously cold winter and a frighteningly dry spring. It’s even been a dry summer.
While you may have given up on your tomatoes months ago, you can certainly try again now.
While you can grow nearly anything between September and December in Florida (at least Central and South Florida), the time to start long-season crops is right now.
Tomato Time
Start tomato seeds in mid-July through Mid August in order to plant out into the garden or containers in September.
You’ll want to be sure that the temperatures have dropped low enough that tomatoes can flower and form fruit, so keep an eye on the weather.
The best way to be ready to have well-developed plants to add to the garden as early as feasible is to start them indoors in July.
You can grow your seedlings under cover and pot them up as they grow for up to three months if necessary. In containers, you can better control their exposure to scalding sun and downpouring rains.
We’ll be selling a new line of vegetable starters suited for Florida gardens in our nursery. If you’re not nearby, we invite you to check out our seeds for sale. We’ve curated the best varieties for the hot & humid Southeastern states, Gulf Coast region, and blistering hot Southwest garden.
And all of our tomato seeds come with a free pack of companion French Marigolds, because we know the tragedy that is root knot nematodes.
Peppers
Everyone loves peppers because they’re easy to grow, come in a wide variety of colors, and have different flavor profiles for a range worldwide cusines.
But boy, can they be lazy.
Peppers can take forever to take off. I don’t know how many times I’ve stared pointedly at cell trays of peppers wondering whether to even bother misting them after two weeks.
Because they do take some time to get going, start them now so you’ll have time to plant them out as early as possible.
They don’t like the cold at all, so if we get another chilly December, it will be nice to get some sweet bells before then.
Check out our California Wonder pepper seeds to plant in July in soil blocks or cells.
Protecting Your Seedlings
Sowing under cover in Florida isn’t an issue of protecting delicate seedlings from the cold. Here, it’s a matter of preventing them from getting washed out by heavy rainstorms.
Starting seeds out of the elements can help keep them from burning up when the heat index is in the triple digits and even your hot peppers are getting scalded.
Whether you start them on a patio, lanai, or indoors, make sure they get plenty of light once the seeds germinate.
Since the long-season peppers and tomatoes like to germinate in warm temperatures, keep your seed starting trays somewhere where they’ll stay at a minimum of 75°F.
They’ll also need some airflow, which not only reduces the chance of dampening off but also stimulates the growth of strong, sturdy stems.
What Else to Plant in July in Florida?
Along with starting your Fall crops by seed, there are also a few heat-loving veggies you can direct sow. Summer is great for planting Okra and Southern Peas. If you’re not a big fan of black-eyed peas or cowpeas, you can also sow them as cover crops to improve your soil for fall planting out.
If you’ve already sown or purchased starts of tropical vegetables or Mediterranean herbs, you can add them to your garden. You’ll find exotic veggies like Okinawa spinach or Longevity spinach at many Florida nurseries. We sell Okinawa spinach starts too.
Make sure your Mediterranean herbs have plenty of drainage, as they can get root rot from our persistent (and seemingly unending) rainfall.
And don’t forget to plant flowers! Many annual flowers you can add to the garden will attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help nurture and protect your crops. Some will grow and bloom in just 60 to 75 days. Quick-growing annual flowers add beauty and diversity to your garden, and many provide critical root exudates for your soil.
Start your broccoli and tomato plants in late July in Central and South Florida.
Here’s what you can start sowing in July in Florida, as well as other Gulf Coast states in the U.S>
South Florida (Zones 10 to 11)
If you’re in South Florida, and some parts of coastal Central Florida, the weather is steaming, even dangerous.
However, it changes fast, so it’s a good idea to be ready with healthy vegetable plants starts so you’re ready to plant out in September.
Scarlet Sage loves the heat and will draw in bees and hummingbirds to your garden.
Pace Yourself When Gardening in Florida in July
Don’t try to start everything at once. Remember, it’s still very hot out there, and it looks like it will stay dry. So, no regular summer storms to cool things off a bit. There’s still a risk of heat exhaustion and skin damage from UV rays.
The wonderful thing about gardening in Florida is our mild autumn and the length of our growing season. Start with vegetables that take the longest time to mature, such as tomatoes and peppers. In Central and South Florida, you can usually plant these out as late as October and overwinter them by covering them on cold nights.
I’m never happy to see the days get shorter, but I’m always excited for the Fall gardening season. To make the most of it, you can get many of your vegetables and flowers started in July.
Perpetual spinach chard is a rare leafy vegetable that thrives in subtropical climates. With its rich heritage and impressive adaptability, this hardy plant is a must-have for gardeners residing in warmer zones 9 through 11.
Perpetual spinach chard, scientifically known as Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. cicla ‘Perpetual Spinach’, belongs to the beet family. It is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where it was cultivated for centuries. This versatile vegetable has a long history of culinary use, with its origins dating back to ancient Greek and Roman times.
Perpetual Spinach Chard Plant Details
Perpetual spinach chard features large, tender leaves that are glossy and dark green, similar to true spinach but with a slightly thicker texture. The leaves grow on sturdy, succulent stalks.
The plant has a biennial growth habit, although it is often cultivated as an annual in cooler climates. It typically reaches maturity within 55 to 60 days from sowing. When fully grown, this leafy vegetable forms a compact rosette of lush foliage, reaching a height of about 12 to 18 inches and spreading approximately 12 inches in width. Its compact size makes it an excellent choice for container gardening as well.
Where and When to Grow Perpetual Spinach
For gardeners residing in the U.S. perpetual spinach chard thrives in subtropical regions with warmer climates. Specifically, it performs exceptionally well in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11. The milder winters and longer growing seasons found in these areas create the perfect conditions for this robust leafy green.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Perpetual Spinach Chard
For the best results and the most abundant harvest, keep the following factors in mind.
Temperature
Perpetual spinach chard thrives in moderate temperatures, preferring a range between 60°F and 80°F. However, it is very heat tolerant and will tolerate cold snaps down to 32°F. Growth will slow during extreme heat and cold.
Humidity
The plant prefers moderate humidity levels. While it can tolerate higher humidity, it is important to provide good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Sunlight
Perpetual spinach chard requires full sun to partial shade, with a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hotter regions, providing some afternoon shade can help prevent wilting or scorching of the leaves. It’s suitable for shady patches of the garden in subtropical zones.
Soil Type
It thrives in well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting will help provide the necessary nutrients and improve soil structure.
Planting Times
Since perpetual chard acts as a perennial edible plant in subtropical zones, you can plant it nearly any time of year. However, avoid planting out during the hottest or coldest times.
For spring planting, start indoors up to 8 weeks before the last frost date and plant out once that date has passed.
In the summer or fall, start seeds indoors, and plant out once the plant has fully developed (about 8 weeks). For best cold resilience, sow and establish at least one month before the first frost date.
Starting Perpetual Spinach Chard Seeds
We recommend starting perpetual chard seeds in cell trays or soil blocks. This allows you to plant out a healthy, well-developed young plant that is more resistant to pests and disease.
Fill cell trays or soil blocks with a high-quality seed-starting mix, moistening it slightly before planting.
Sow the seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep.
Place the trays or blocks in a warm location with temperatures around 70°F to 75°F.
Maintain consistent moisture by misting the soil surface or using a bottom-watering technique.
Germination typically occurs within 7 to 14 days.
Once the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, you can transplant them into the garden. However, we recommend planting out once the plant is 6” and has developed several sets of true leaves. This ensures it will better survive transplant shock or environmental pressures.
Transplanting Perpetual Spinach Chard
Once you have healthy young seedlings, you’ll want to transplant them into your garden or into a larger container.
Into Garden Beds:
Choose a well-prepared garden bed with loose, amended soil.
Dig holes that are slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling.
Gently remove the seedlings from the module cell or soil block tray, taking care not to damage the roots.
Place the seedlings into the holes and backfill with soil, firming it gently around the base of the plants.
Space the plants 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart to allow sufficient room for growth.
Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly to help them establish.
Into Containers:
Select containers that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep to accommodate the root system.
Fill the containers with a well-draining potting mix, leaving about an inch of space below the rim.
Gently remove the seedlings from the cell trays or soil block trays, being careful not to disturb the roots.
Place the seedlings in the center of each container and fill in the remaining space with potting mix.
Water the containers thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom.
Temp Tolerance for Perpetual Spinach
Perpetual chard may require some extra care when the weather is extreme.
Protect from Excessive Heat
High temperatures above 95°F can cause the leaves to wilt, scorch, and lose flavor. Providing shade or mulching can help protect the plants during extreme heat.
Protection from Cold
To protect perpetual chard from a deep cold snap, apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants to insulate the roots and conserve moisture. Cover the plants with row covers or frost blankets during freezing temperatures.
Watering Schedule
During the winter and spring, water the plants deeply once or twice a week, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.
During the summer and fall, water as needed to provide moisture if it doesn’t rain adequately.
Fertilizer Composition and Schedule
Prior to planting, incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil for nutrient enrichment.
During the growing season, apply a balanced organic fertilizer or a slow-release granular fertilizer according to the package instructions every 4 to 6 weeks.
Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, as it can promote leafy growth at the expense of root development. Opt for a balanced fertilizer instead.
Common Pests
Perpetual spinach chard may be subject to a few pests.
Aphids: Use a strong blast of water or insecticidal soap to control aphid infestations.
Slugs and Snails: We recommend Sluggo baits, which are very effective, very affordable, and certified OMRI for organic use.
Leaf Miners: Remove infested leaves and destroy them to reduce leaf miner populations.
Caterpillars: Handpick caterpillars or use organic insecticides labeled for vegetable use. We recommend products containing a naturally occurring bacteria called Bacillus thuringiensis (or bt for short), such as Thuricide.
Similar products that contain Spinosad are also organic and are affective against a wider range of pest insects, including aphids. Monterey’s Spinosad is an excellent choice.
Common Diseases
Downy Mildew: Ensure good air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply appropriate fungicides if necessary.
Leaf Spot: Remove affected leaves and practice good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease.
For significant infections, we recommend applying an organic copper spray after removing the affected foliage.
Powdery Mildew: Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply fungicides labeled for powdery mildew control. Apply a mixture of 8 Tbs of household hydrogen peroxide (3%) mixed with one gallon of water with a sprayer every three days for a week or two for an inexpensive organic fungicide against powdery mildew.
Regularly monitor your plants for any signs of pests or diseases and take prompt action to prevent damage or spread.
Special Needs and Care for Perpetual Spinach Chard
Thinning: When sowing directly, think seedlings when they reach a height of about 2 to 3 inches to ensure proper spacing between plants. Remove the weaker seedlings, leaving the healthiest and strongest ones to grow. These plants grow best when spaced at around 12”.
Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to help conserve moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature.
Companion Plants for Perpetual Spinach
Perpetual spinach chard can benefit from companion planting, which involves growing compatible plants in close proximity to enhance growth, deter pests, and promote overall garden health. Here are some suitable companion plants for perpetual chard:
Herbs
Plant aromatic herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro near perpetual spinach chard to repel pests and attract beneficial insects.
Nasturtiums
Nasturtiums serve as sacrificial plants, attracting pests like aphids away from perpetual chard.
Harvesting Perpetual Spinach
Regularly harvest outer leaves when they reach a size of about 6 to 8 inches long. This will encourage continuous growth and prevent the plants from bolting.
If the plants start to bolt (produce flower stalks), it is best to remove them to maintain quality. Alternatively, you can allow them to flower for your bee population and to collect seeds once matured.
Perpetual chard can be harvested as soon as the outer leaves reach a desirable size. Here’s how to harvest:
Select the outer leaves, starting with the largest ones, leaving the smaller inner leaves to continue growing.
Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the leaves off at the base, or you can gently twist and pull them from the stem.
Harvest regularly to encourage new leaf growth and a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Cooking with Perpetual Spinach
Perpetual spinach chard is a versatile leafy green that can be enjoyed in various culinary creations. Here are some cooking and meal ideas:
Fresh Salads
Use young and tender leaves as a nutritious base for salads. Mix with other greens, add your favorite toppings, and dress with a light vinaigrette.
Sautéed or Stir-Fried
Heat olive oil or butter in a pan, add chopped leaves, and sauté with garlic, onions, or other vegetables for a flavorful side dish. Stir-frying with soy sauce and sesame oil also creates a delicious Asian-inspired dish.
Quiches and Frittatas
Add cooked and chopped leaves to quiches, frittatas, or egg muffins for a nutrient-packed and flavorful meal.
Soups and Stews
Incorporate into soups, stews, or hearty winter dishes for added nutrition and a vibrant green color.
Wraps and Sandwiches
Use large perpetual spinach chard leaves as a substitute for tortillas or bread in wraps and sandwiches for a healthy and low-carb option.
Experiment with different recipes and cooking techniques to make the most of the versatile chard in your culinary endeavors. Enjoy the fresh and vibrant flavors it brings to your meals!
Your Subtropical Garden Needs Perpetual Spinach Chard
Perpetual chard is a versatile and visually appealing addition to subtropical gardens in the United States. Its origins in the Mediterranean region and its ability to flourish in warmer climates make it an ideal choice for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11.
Whether used as an ornamental plant or harvested as a nutritious leafy green, perpetual spinach chard offers gardeners a delightful and productive gardening experience.
You can purchase seeds for perpetual spinach chard from our website.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing and Using Perpetual Spinach
Why is it called perpetual spinach?
Perpetual spinach got its name because it produces a continuous harvest of spinach-like leaves throughout the growing season.
What are some perpetual spinach chard benefits?
Perpetual chard is packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supports immune health, promotes digestion, and provides essential nutrients.
What is the difference between spinach and perpetual spinach?
It has thicker leaves and sturdier stalks compared to true spinach. It is much more heat tolerant and tends to have a longer growing season.
Does perpetual spinach taste like spinach?
Yes, it has a mild, slightly sweet taste similar to true spinach but with a heartier texture.
Can you eat perpetual spinach stalks?
Yes, the succulent stalks are edible and can be enjoyed in various culinary preparations.
Is perpetual spinach the same as chard?
Yes, perpetual spinach is a type of chard, specifically a variety that resembles and tastes like true spinach.
What is another name for perpetual spinach?
Another name for perpetual spinach is “leaf beet.”
What grows well with perpetual spinach?
It grows well with herbs like basil and dill, brassicas like broccoli, and beans.
How do you cook perpetual spinach?
You can cook it by sautéing, stir-frying, adding to soups or stews, or using it raw in salads and wraps.
How long will perpetual spinach last?
With regular harvesting and proper care, you’ll get a continuous harvest for several months. In subtropical regions with mild winters, it will easily last for a year or more.
What is perpetual spinach good for?
It’s good for adding nutrition to meals, supporting overall health, and providing a versatile leafy green option in climates that are too hot to grow traditional salad greens.
How do you maintain perpetual spinach?
Maintain the plant by ensuring consistent moisture, proper spacing, regular harvesting, and protecting from extreme temperatures.
Where do you cut perpetual spinach?
When harvesting, cut the outer leaves close to the base of the plant, leaving the inner leaves to continue growing.
What does perpetual spinach taste like?
It has a mild, slightly sweet taste with a hint of nuttiness.
Is perpetual spinach the same as New Zealand spinach?
No, perpetual spinach and New Zealand spinach are different plants, although they are both leafy greens commonly used as spinach alternatives.
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