If you’ve been paying attention to the weather forecast, it’s likely that the last thing on your mind is what to plant in July in Florida. The heat indexes have easily been in the triple digits, and the rainfall reports are way down.
The good news is that if you’re just as addicted to gardening as I am, there are a few things you can do to feed that urge, even in all this heat.
That’s right, Florida gardeners — it’s July! It’s not time to get back into the garden quite yet, but it IS time to start collecting supplies and sowing seeds indoors and under cover.
It’s time to get ready for the fall garden. Start stocking up on your favorite seeds and get cracking. It’s go time.
It’s Time to Get Seeding!
We had a ridiculously cold winter and a frighteningly dry spring. It’s even been a dry summer.
While you may have given up on your tomatoes months ago, you can certainly try again now.
While you can grow nearly anything between September and December in Florida (at least Central and South Florida), the time to start long-season crops is right now.
Tomato Time
Start tomato seeds in mid-July through Mid August in order to plant out into the garden or containers in September.
You’ll want to be sure that the temperatures have dropped low enough that tomatoes can flower and form fruit, so keep an eye on the weather.
The best way to be ready to have well-developed plants to add to the garden as early as feasible is to start them indoors in July.
You can grow your seedlings under cover and pot them up as they grow for up to three months if necessary. In containers, you can better control their exposure to scalding sun and downpouring rains.
We’ll be selling a new line of vegetable starters suited for Florida gardens in our nursery. If you’re not nearby, we invite you to check out our seeds for sale. We’ve curated the best varieties for the hot & humid Southeastern states, Gulf Coast region, and blistering hot Southwest garden.
And all of our tomato seeds come with a free pack of companion French Marigolds, because we know the tragedy that is root knot nematodes.
Peppers
Everyone loves peppers because they’re easy to grow, come in a wide variety of colors, and have different flavor profiles for a range worldwide cusines.
But boy, can they be lazy.
Peppers can take forever to take off. I don’t know how many times I’ve stared pointedly at cell trays of peppers wondering whether to even bother misting them after two weeks.
Because they do take some time to get going, start them now so you’ll have time to plant them out as early as possible.
They don’t like the cold at all, so if we get another chilly December, it will be nice to get some sweet bells before then.
Check out our California Wonder pepper seeds to plant in July in soil blocks or cells.
Protecting Your Seedlings
Sowing under cover in Florida isn’t an issue of protecting delicate seedlings from the cold. Here, it’s a matter of preventing them from getting washed out by heavy rainstorms.
Starting seeds out of the elements can help keep them from burning up when the heat index is in the triple digits and even your hot peppers are getting scalded.
Whether you start them on a patio, lanai, or indoors, make sure they get plenty of light once the seeds germinate.
Since the long-season peppers and tomatoes like to germinate in warm temperatures, keep your seed starting trays somewhere where they’ll stay at a minimum of 75°F.
They’ll also need some airflow, which not only reduces the chance of dampening off but also stimulates the growth of strong, sturdy stems.
What Else to Plant in July in Florida?
Along with starting your Fall crops by seed, there are also a few heat-loving veggies you can direct sow. Summer is great for planting Okra and Southern Peas. If you’re not a big fan of black-eyed peas or cowpeas, you can also sow them as cover crops to improve your soil for fall planting out.
If you’ve already sown or purchased starts of tropical vegetables or Mediterranean herbs, you can add them to your garden. You’ll find exotic veggies like Okinawa spinach or Longevity spinach at many Florida nurseries. We sell Okinawa spinach starts too.
Make sure your Mediterranean herbs have plenty of drainage, as they can get root rot from our persistent (and seemingly unending) rainfall.
And don’t forget to plant flowers! Many annual flowers you can add to the garden will attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help nurture and protect your crops. Some will grow and bloom in just 60 to 75 days. Quick-growing annual flowers add beauty and diversity to your garden, and many provide critical root exudates for your soil.
Start your broccoli and tomato plants in late July in Central and South Florida.
Here’s what you can start sowing in July in Florida, as well as other Gulf Coast states in the U.S>
South Florida (Zones 10 to 11)
If you’re in South Florida, and some parts of coastal Central Florida, the weather is steaming, even dangerous.
However, it changes fast, so it’s a good idea to be ready with healthy vegetable plants starts so you’re ready to plant out in September.
Scarlet Sage loves the heat and will draw in bees and hummingbirds to your garden.
Pace Yourself When Gardening in Florida in July
Don’t try to start everything at once. Remember, it’s still very hot out there, and it looks like it will stay dry. So, no regular summer storms to cool things off a bit. There’s still a risk of heat exhaustion and skin damage from UV rays.
The wonderful thing about gardening in Florida is our mild autumn and the length of our growing season. Start with vegetables that take the longest time to mature, such as tomatoes and peppers. In Central and South Florida, you can usually plant these out as late as October and overwinter them by covering them on cold nights.
I’m never happy to see the days get shorter, but I’m always excited for the Fall gardening season. To make the most of it, you can get many of your vegetables and flowers started in July.
Perpetual spinach chard is a rare leafy vegetable that thrives in subtropical climates. With its rich heritage and impressive adaptability, this hardy plant is a must-have for gardeners residing in warmer zones 9 through 11.
Perpetual spinach chard, scientifically known as Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. cicla ‘Perpetual Spinach’, belongs to the beet family. It is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where it was cultivated for centuries. This versatile vegetable has a long history of culinary use, with its origins dating back to ancient Greek and Roman times.
Perpetual Spinach Chard Plant Details
Perpetual spinach chard features large, tender leaves that are glossy and dark green, similar to true spinach but with a slightly thicker texture. The leaves grow on sturdy, succulent stalks.
The plant has a biennial growth habit, although it is often cultivated as an annual in cooler climates. It typically reaches maturity within 55 to 60 days from sowing. When fully grown, this leafy vegetable forms a compact rosette of lush foliage, reaching a height of about 12 to 18 inches and spreading approximately 12 inches in width. Its compact size makes it an excellent choice for container gardening as well.
Where and When to Grow Perpetual Spinach
For gardeners residing in the U.S. perpetual spinach chard thrives in subtropical regions with warmer climates. Specifically, it performs exceptionally well in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11. The milder winters and longer growing seasons found in these areas create the perfect conditions for this robust leafy green.
Optimal Growing Conditions for Perpetual Spinach Chard
For the best results and the most abundant harvest, keep the following factors in mind.
Temperature
Perpetual spinach chard thrives in moderate temperatures, preferring a range between 60°F and 80°F. However, it is very heat tolerant and will tolerate cold snaps down to 32°F. Growth will slow during extreme heat and cold.
Humidity
The plant prefers moderate humidity levels. While it can tolerate higher humidity, it is important to provide good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Sunlight
Perpetual spinach chard requires full sun to partial shade, with a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hotter regions, providing some afternoon shade can help prevent wilting or scorching of the leaves. It’s suitable for shady patches of the garden in subtropical zones.
Soil Type
It thrives in well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting will help provide the necessary nutrients and improve soil structure.
Planting Times
Since perpetual chard acts as a perennial edible plant in subtropical zones, you can plant it nearly any time of year. However, avoid planting out during the hottest or coldest times.
For spring planting, start indoors up to 8 weeks before the last frost date and plant out once that date has passed.
In the summer or fall, start seeds indoors, and plant out once the plant has fully developed (about 8 weeks). For best cold resilience, sow and establish at least one month before the first frost date.
Starting Perpetual Spinach Chard Seeds
We recommend starting perpetual chard seeds in cell trays or soil blocks. This allows you to plant out a healthy, well-developed young plant that is more resistant to pests and disease.
Fill cell trays or soil blocks with a high-quality seed-starting mix, moistening it slightly before planting.
Sow the seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep.
Place the trays or blocks in a warm location with temperatures around 70°F to 75°F.
Maintain consistent moisture by misting the soil surface or using a bottom-watering technique.
Germination typically occurs within 7 to 14 days.
Once the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, you can transplant them into the garden. However, we recommend planting out once the plant is 6” and has developed several sets of true leaves. This ensures it will better survive transplant shock or environmental pressures.
Transplanting Perpetual Spinach Chard
Once you have healthy young seedlings, you’ll want to transplant them into your garden or into a larger container.
Into Garden Beds:
Choose a well-prepared garden bed with loose, amended soil.
Dig holes that are slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling.
Gently remove the seedlings from the module cell or soil block tray, taking care not to damage the roots.
Place the seedlings into the holes and backfill with soil, firming it gently around the base of the plants.
Space the plants 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart to allow sufficient room for growth.
Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly to help them establish.
Into Containers:
Select containers that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep to accommodate the root system.
Fill the containers with a well-draining potting mix, leaving about an inch of space below the rim.
Gently remove the seedlings from the cell trays or soil block trays, being careful not to disturb the roots.
Place the seedlings in the center of each container and fill in the remaining space with potting mix.
Water the containers thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom.
Temp Tolerance for Perpetual Spinach
Perpetual chard may require some extra care when the weather is extreme.
Protect from Excessive Heat
High temperatures above 95°F can cause the leaves to wilt, scorch, and lose flavor. Providing shade or mulching can help protect the plants during extreme heat.
Protection from Cold
To protect perpetual chard from a deep cold snap, apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants to insulate the roots and conserve moisture. Cover the plants with row covers or frost blankets during freezing temperatures.
Watering Schedule
During the winter and spring, water the plants deeply once or twice a week, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.
During the summer and fall, water as needed to provide moisture if it doesn’t rain adequately.
Fertilizer Composition and Schedule
Prior to planting, incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil for nutrient enrichment.
During the growing season, apply a balanced organic fertilizer or a slow-release granular fertilizer according to the package instructions every 4 to 6 weeks.
Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, as it can promote leafy growth at the expense of root development. Opt for a balanced fertilizer instead.
Common Pests
Perpetual spinach chard may be subject to a few pests.
Aphids: Use a strong blast of water or insecticidal soap to control aphid infestations.
Slugs and Snails: We recommend Sluggo baits, which are very effective, very affordable, and certified OMRI for organic use.
Leaf Miners: Remove infested leaves and destroy them to reduce leaf miner populations.
Caterpillars: Handpick caterpillars or use organic insecticides labeled for vegetable use. We recommend products containing a naturally occurring bacteria called Bacillus thuringiensis (or bt for short), such as Thuricide.
Similar products that contain Spinosad are also organic and are affective against a wider range of pest insects, including aphids. Monterey’s Spinosad is an excellent choice.
Common Diseases
Downy Mildew: Ensure good air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply appropriate fungicides if necessary.
Leaf Spot: Remove affected leaves and practice good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease.
For significant infections, we recommend applying an organic copper spray after removing the affected foliage.
Powdery Mildew: Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply fungicides labeled for powdery mildew control. Apply a mixture of 8 Tbs of household hydrogen peroxide (3%) mixed with one gallon of water with a sprayer every three days for a week or two for an inexpensive organic fungicide against powdery mildew.
Regularly monitor your plants for any signs of pests or diseases and take prompt action to prevent damage or spread.
Special Needs and Care for Perpetual Spinach Chard
Thinning: When sowing directly, think seedlings when they reach a height of about 2 to 3 inches to ensure proper spacing between plants. Remove the weaker seedlings, leaving the healthiest and strongest ones to grow. These plants grow best when spaced at around 12”.
Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to help conserve moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature.
Companion Plants for Perpetual Spinach
Perpetual spinach chard can benefit from companion planting, which involves growing compatible plants in close proximity to enhance growth, deter pests, and promote overall garden health. Here are some suitable companion plants for perpetual chard:
Herbs
Plant aromatic herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro near perpetual spinach chard to repel pests and attract beneficial insects.
Nasturtiums
Nasturtiums serve as sacrificial plants, attracting pests like aphids away from perpetual chard.
Harvesting Perpetual Spinach
Regularly harvest outer leaves when they reach a size of about 6 to 8 inches long. This will encourage continuous growth and prevent the plants from bolting.
If the plants start to bolt (produce flower stalks), it is best to remove them to maintain quality. Alternatively, you can allow them to flower for your bee population and to collect seeds once matured.
Perpetual chard can be harvested as soon as the outer leaves reach a desirable size. Here’s how to harvest:
Select the outer leaves, starting with the largest ones, leaving the smaller inner leaves to continue growing.
Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the leaves off at the base, or you can gently twist and pull them from the stem.
Harvest regularly to encourage new leaf growth and a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Cooking with Perpetual Spinach
Perpetual spinach chard is a versatile leafy green that can be enjoyed in various culinary creations. Here are some cooking and meal ideas:
Fresh Salads
Use young and tender leaves as a nutritious base for salads. Mix with other greens, add your favorite toppings, and dress with a light vinaigrette.
Sautéed or Stir-Fried
Heat olive oil or butter in a pan, add chopped leaves, and sauté with garlic, onions, or other vegetables for a flavorful side dish. Stir-frying with soy sauce and sesame oil also creates a delicious Asian-inspired dish.
Quiches and Frittatas
Add cooked and chopped leaves to quiches, frittatas, or egg muffins for a nutrient-packed and flavorful meal.
Soups and Stews
Incorporate into soups, stews, or hearty winter dishes for added nutrition and a vibrant green color.
Wraps and Sandwiches
Use large perpetual spinach chard leaves as a substitute for tortillas or bread in wraps and sandwiches for a healthy and low-carb option.
Experiment with different recipes and cooking techniques to make the most of the versatile chard in your culinary endeavors. Enjoy the fresh and vibrant flavors it brings to your meals!
Your Subtropical Garden Needs Perpetual Spinach Chard
Perpetual chard is a versatile and visually appealing addition to subtropical gardens in the United States. Its origins in the Mediterranean region and its ability to flourish in warmer climates make it an ideal choice for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11.
Whether used as an ornamental plant or harvested as a nutritious leafy green, perpetual spinach chard offers gardeners a delightful and productive gardening experience.
You can purchase seeds for perpetual spinach chard from our website.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing and Using Perpetual Spinach
Why is it called perpetual spinach?
Perpetual spinach got its name because it produces a continuous harvest of spinach-like leaves throughout the growing season.
What are some perpetual spinach chard benefits?
Perpetual chard is packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supports immune health, promotes digestion, and provides essential nutrients.
What is the difference between spinach and perpetual spinach?
It has thicker leaves and sturdier stalks compared to true spinach. It is much more heat tolerant and tends to have a longer growing season.
Does perpetual spinach taste like spinach?
Yes, it has a mild, slightly sweet taste similar to true spinach but with a heartier texture.
Can you eat perpetual spinach stalks?
Yes, the succulent stalks are edible and can be enjoyed in various culinary preparations.
Is perpetual spinach the same as chard?
Yes, perpetual spinach is a type of chard, specifically a variety that resembles and tastes like true spinach.
What is another name for perpetual spinach?
Another name for perpetual spinach is “leaf beet.”
What grows well with perpetual spinach?
It grows well with herbs like basil and dill, brassicas like broccoli, and beans.
How do you cook perpetual spinach?
You can cook it by sautéing, stir-frying, adding to soups or stews, or using it raw in salads and wraps.
How long will perpetual spinach last?
With regular harvesting and proper care, you’ll get a continuous harvest for several months. In subtropical regions with mild winters, it will easily last for a year or more.
What is perpetual spinach good for?
It’s good for adding nutrition to meals, supporting overall health, and providing a versatile leafy green option in climates that are too hot to grow traditional salad greens.
How do you maintain perpetual spinach?
Maintain the plant by ensuring consistent moisture, proper spacing, regular harvesting, and protecting from extreme temperatures.
Where do you cut perpetual spinach?
When harvesting, cut the outer leaves close to the base of the plant, leaving the inner leaves to continue growing.
What does perpetual spinach taste like?
It has a mild, slightly sweet taste with a hint of nuttiness.
Is perpetual spinach the same as New Zealand spinach?
No, perpetual spinach and New Zealand spinach are different plants, although they are both leafy greens commonly used as spinach alternatives.
If you’re a Florida gardener dreaming of growing your own tropical fruit paradise, look no further than the magnificent banana plant. With their lush foliage and delicious fruit, bananas can thrive in Florida’s subtropical climate. Let’s explore the best varieties suited for each zone, share valuable tips on growing conditions, soil requirements, and planting times, and find out more about how to grow bananas in Florida.
Ornamental vs. Edible Bananas
Before we delve into the specifics, it’s important to distinguish between ornamental and edible bananas. While both types offer stunning foliage, ornamental varieties produce inedible or barely edible fruit. To truly enjoy the flavor and sweetness of homegrown bananas, opt for edible varieties specifically bred for fruit production.
It’s important to note that while these ornamental varieties add visual interest to gardens, their fruit is either inedible or of very poor quality. Therefore, for those looking to grow bananas for their delicious fruit, it’s essential to select edible banana varieties specifically bred for fruit production.
Here are some varieties to avoid if you’re hoping for a harvest:
Musa ornata: Known for its vibrant pink inflorescence and attractive dark green leaves with red midribs, this ornamental banana adds a touch of tropical beauty to gardens.
Musa velutina: Also called the Pink Banana, this variety showcases stunning pink fruits and velvety pink bracts. It’s a favorite among collectors for its ornamental appeal.
Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’: While technically a close relative of the banana, this ornamental variety, commonly known as the Red Abyssinian Banana, is primarily grown for its striking red foliage.
Musa sikkimensis ‘Red Tiger’: This ornamental banana boasts maroon-red leaves with prominent green stripes, creating a visually captivating display in gardens and landscapes.
Best Banana Varieties to Grow in Florida
Growing bananas successfully in Florida requires selecting suitable varieties for each USDA zone. Let’s explore some of the top banana types known to thrive in the Sunshine State:
North Florida / Zone 8:
‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata): This compact variety grows well in containers, making it ideal for Zone 8 gardens. It produces tasty, medium-sized bananas with a pleasant flavor profile.
Central Florida / Zone 9:
Goldfinger Banana (FHIA-01): Resistant to Panama disease, this variety excels in Zone 9. Its creamy fruit has a sweet flavor reminiscent of dessert bananas.
Lady Finger Banana (Musa acuminata ‘Lady Finger‘): Thriving in Zone 9, these slender, aromatic bananas offer a delicate and sweet taste.
South Florida / Zone 10:
Mona Lisa Banana (FHIA-2): Perfect for Zone 10, this variety produces large bunches of sweet, aromatic bananas. It offers excellent disease resistance and handles Florida’s hot climate well.
Honey Banana (Musa johnsii): Well-suited for Zone 10, this unique banana variety features a honey-like flavor and attractive red-purple skin when ripe.
Choosing Banana Plants for Your Florida Garden
I don’t know about you, but when they’re small, all bananas pretty much look the same to me. It’s always a good idea to choose the variety carefully, so look for the label when you’re at your local nursery. If you don’t see one, ask someone. You really don’t want to end up with an ornamental type when you’re hoping to be making home-grown banana bread someday.
Dwarf Cavendish
‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata) is a popular banana variety renowned for its compact size and delectable fruit. This cultivar typically reaches a height of around 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, making it an excellent choice for smaller gardens or container cultivation.
The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ features broad, lush green leaves that create a tropical ambiance wherever it grows. This variety takes approximately 2 to 3 years to reach maturity and begin flowering, producing pendulous clusters of creamy yellow fruit.
The fruit of the ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ is medium-sized, with a smooth, thin skin that turns yellow when ripe. Its flavor is delightfully sweet, often described as having a subtle and creamy banana taste with hints of tropical notes.
When fully ripened, the ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ offers a luscious and satisfying eating experience, making it a favorite choice for banana enthusiasts.
Goldfinger
The Goldfinger Banana (FHIA-01) is a remarkable banana variety known for its resistance to several diseases, making it an excellent choice for growers. This hybrid cultivar combines the genetics of the wild banana (Musa balbisiana) and the Dwarf Cavendish (Musa acuminata).
At maturity, the Goldfinger Banana typically reaches a height of 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3 meters) with a spread of about 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 meters). It exhibits sturdy and upright growth habits, producing large, attractive leaves with green foliage. The Goldfinger Banana matures in approximately 9 to 12 months and starts flowering when it reaches about 7 feet (2.1 meters) in height.
The fruit it bears is elongated and has a vibrant yellow skin when fully ripe. The flavor profile of the Goldfinger Banana is exquisite, with a rich and sweet taste complemented by hints of tropical flavors.
Its firm and creamy texture enhances the overall culinary experience, making it a highly desirable choice for both fresh consumption and culinary uses.
Lady Finger
The Lady Finger Banana (Musa acuminata ‘Lady Finger‘) is a distinguished banana variety appreciated for its petite size and delectable fruit. Also known as “Sucrier” or “Sugar Banana,” this cultivar is treasured for its sweetness and fine texture.
The Lady Finger Banana typically grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 3 to 5 feet (0.9 to 1.5 meters). It displays an upright growth habit, producing slender leaves that add an elegant touch to any garden. This variety takes around 12 to 16 months to reach maturity and begin flowering.
The fruit of the Lady Finger Banana is small and cylindrical, with a thin golden-yellow skin when fully ripe. Its flesh is creamy and tender, offering a delectable balance of sweetness and subtle tanginess.
The Lady Finger Banana is often praised for its dessert-like flavor, reminiscent of vanilla and honey. Its petite size and exceptional taste make it a favorite choice for enjoying fresh or incorporating into various culinary creations.
Mona Lisa
The Mona Lisa Banana (FHIA-2) is a captivating banana variety that stands out for its exceptional flavor and ornamental features. This hybrid cultivar, bred from the Honduran Foundation for Agricultural Research (FHIA), offers both aesthetic appeal and delectable fruit.
The Mona Lisa Banana grows to a height of about 10 to 12 feet (3 to 3.6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 1.8 meters). It showcases large, lush green leaves that create a tropical ambiance in any garden. This variety typically takes around 12 to 14 months to reach maturity and start flowering.
The fruit of the Mona Lisa Banana is medium-sized, with a slightly curved shape and a vibrant yellow color when ripe. Its flavor profile is highly regarded, characterized by a rich, sweet taste with hints of caramel and hints of citrus. The fruit’s creamy texture further enhances the eating experience.
The Mona Lisa Banana excels as a dessert banana due to its delectable flavor and also adds an aesthetic appeal to landscapes and gardens with its lush foliage and graceful presence.
Honey Bananas
Honey Banana (Musa johnsii) is a unique and lesser-known banana variety that offers a delightful taste and distinctive characteristics. This species is highly regarded for its exceptional sweetness, earning its name “Honey Banana.”
The Honey Banana plant reaches a height of about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, with a spread of around 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 meters). It displays a compact growth habit, making it suitable for smaller gardens or container cultivation. The time it takes for Honey Bananas to reach maturity and start flowering is approximately 12 to 14 months.
The fruit of the Honey Banana is medium-sized with a slender shape and a bright yellow skin when fully ripe. Its flavor is the highlight, characterized by an intense sweetness reminiscent of honey, along with subtle floral notes. The Honey Banana’s velvety smooth texture adds to the overall eating experience.
While not as widely known as some other banana varieties, the Honey Banana surprises with its unique flavor profile, making it a delightful choice for those seeking a distinct and sweet tropical treat.
Blue Java
The Blue Java banana (Musa acuminata × balbisiana ‘Blue Java’) is a fascinating and sought-after banana variety, renowned for its unusual blue-green coloration and distinctive flavor. This cultivar, often referred to as the “Ice Cream Banana,” offers a unique combination of visual appeal and delectable taste.
The Blue Java banana plant reaches a height of 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters). It displays a robust growth habit, with large, sturdy leaves that create a lush tropical atmosphere. The time it takes for the Blue Java banana to grow to maturity and start flowering is typically around 12 to 20 months.
The fruit of the Blue Java banana is medium-sized, with a thick, pale blue-green skin when fully ripe. Its flavor is what sets it apart, often described as resembling vanilla ice cream or custard. The flesh is creamy and velvety, offering a rich and sweet taste with subtle hints of vanilla.
The Blue Java banana’s unique flavor profile, combined with its visually stunning appearance, makes it a highly sought-after variety among banana enthusiasts and a true delight for those seeking a tropical treat with a twist.
Plantains vs. Bananas
Plantains, often confused with bananas, are a versatile staple in tropical cuisine. While they resemble bananas, plantains require different cooking methods due to their starchier texture. Plantains are often cooked before consumption and used in various savory dishes.
Best Plantain Bananas to Grow in Florida
To enjoy the goodness of plantains in your Florida garden, consider these top varieties:
Platano Burro
Well-adapted to Florida’s climate, this plantain variety offers large, starchy fruit with a mildly sweet flavor.
Platano Burro (Musa paradisiaca), also known as the “Burro Banana” or “Horse Banana,” is a popular plantain variety valued for its versatility and distinct flavor. Unlike sweet bananas, the Platano Burro is primarily used for cooking due to its starchy nature.
This plantain cultivar grows to a height of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters). It displays large, broad leaves that provide a tropical ambiance to the landscape. The time it takes for the Platano Burro to reach maturity and start flowering is typically around 12 to 16 months.
The fruit of the Platano Burro is larger and more angular compared to sweet bananas, with a thick green skin that turns yellow-black as it ripens. When cooked, the fruit takes on a soft and creamy texture, perfect for making delicious dishes such as plantain chips, mashed plantains, or plantain fritters.
The flavor profile of the Platano Burro is unique, offering a mild, slightly sweet taste with subtle hints of tanginess. Its versatility in various culinary applications, combined with its hearty and flavorful nature, makes the Platano Burro a favored choice among those seeking to explore the world of plantain-based cuisine.
Saba
Thriving in Florida’s warm climate, Saba plantains produce large, starchy fruit perfect for cooking and frying.
The Saba Plantain (Musa acuminata × balbisiana ‘Saba’) is a popular and robust plantain variety cherished for its versatility in both cooking and baking. This hybrid cultivar, known for its large size and starchy texture, is highly valued in tropical cuisines.
The Saba Plantain grows into a sizeable plant, reaching heights of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters). It showcases broad leaves that create a lush and tropical atmosphere in the garden. The time it takes for the Saba Plantain to mature and start flowering typically ranges from 10 to 14 months.
The fruit of the Saba Plantain is elongated and thick-skinned, transitioning from green to yellow-black as it ripens. Unlike dessert bananas, the Saba Plantain is not typically consumed raw due to its starchy nature. When cooked, however, it transforms into a delectable treat. The flavor profile of the Saba Plantain is characterized by a mildly sweet taste and a dense, creamy texture.
Its versatility makes it ideal for a wide range of culinary creations, from savory plantain chips and stews to delectable plantain bread or cakes. The Saba Plantain’s substantial size, adaptability, and hearty flavor make it a staple ingredient in many tropical cuisines and a favorite among plantain enthusiasts.
How to Grow the Best Tasting Bananas
To ensure your banana plants thrive, it’s essential to understand the environmental factors that influence their growth:
Temperatures
Bananas thrive in consistently warm to hot conditions. The optimal temperatures are between 78°F to 82°F, although they fruit best at 84°F to 86°F.
When temperatures drop below 60°F, the growth of banana plants slows down, and it completely stops at 50°F. So, you won’t see much progress on your bananas during the winter.
Unfortunately, cooler winter days can really stunt the growth of your banana fruits when temperatures are between 32°F and 50°F.
The plants themselves can become damaged when temperatures drop below freezing for many hours. Signs of freeze damage include the death of leaves and browning of the trunk and fruit.
Temps below 28°F (-2°C) may even kill the plants, but they usually regrow from the underground rhizome once warm weather returns.
On the other hand, excessively high temperatures at or above 98°F (37°C) can lead to leaf scorch, and newly emerging leaves may appear very narrow. This is why you may want to consider planting your bananas in some dappled shade if you’re in South Florida.
Sun and Wind Exposure
Wind can damage banana leaves, so consider planting in a sheltered location or using windbreaks. This may also provide some protection from summer scorching.
Bananas thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially during the hottest part of the day.
Drought and Flooding: While bananas prefer consistent moisture, they can tolerate short periods of drought. Avoid waterlogged conditions.
Grow Bananas in Florida Soil
Bananas thrive in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Sandy loam soils are ideal, but heavy clay soils can be amended with organic matter to improve drainage. Add compost or well-rotted manure to enhance soil fertility.
Bananas are sensitive to high salt levels in the soil. Choose well-draining soils with low salinity.
When to Grow Bananas in Florida
The ideal time to plant bananas in Florida varies by zone:
Zone 8: Plant bananas in early spring after the threat of frost has passed.
Zone 9: Plant in late winter or early spring.
Zone 10: Plant year-round, avoiding the hottest months of summer.
Circle the Bananas
Banana circles, also known as banana pits or banana circles, have gained popularity among permaculture enthusiasts as an innovative and sustainable way to grow bananas.
This method draws inspiration from traditional agricultural practices found in various cultures around the world. While the exact origins of banana circles are difficult to trace, their use can be seen in regions such as Southeast Asia, Africa, and South America, where bananas have been cultivated for centuries.
The concept behind banana circles revolves around creating a self-sustaining ecosystem that mimics the natural conditions in which bananas thrive. It involves digging a circular pit in the ground and gradually building up layers of organic matter within it. The organic materials used can include kitchen scraps, compost, mulch, leaves, straw, animal manure, and any other biodegradable waste readily available. As these materials decompose, they release nutrients into the soil, creating a fertile environment for banana plants.
Banana circles offer several advantages for banana cultivation. Firstly, the circular shape provides an efficient use of space, allowing multiple banana plants to be grown in a compact area. This is especially beneficial for home gardeners with limited space.
Additionally, the layers of organic matter create a moisture-retaining and nutrient-rich environment, reducing the need for frequent watering and fertilization. The organic matter also acts as a mulch, helping to suppress weeds and maintain soil moisture levels.
Banana circles are a holistic way to grow bananas in Florida and they utilize natural processes and recycle organic waste. They promote soil health, conserve water, and encourage biodiversity by creating microhabitats that attract beneficial insects and microorganisms.
Banana circles contribute to the overall resilience of the garden ecosystem, as the decomposing organic matter feeds not only the banana plants but also neighboring plants and soil organisms.
These circles not only provide an abundant harvest of bananas but also provide a lightly shaded understory for growing more sun-sensitive plants in rich and fertile soil.
Planting a Banana Circle
Creating a banana circle, as practiced in permaculture, can optimize growth and provide a sustainable environment for your banana plants. Follow these simple steps to create a banana circle:
Choose a sunny or partially shaded location that is somewhat sheltered from harsh or excess wings.
Dig a circular trench approximately 1-3 feet deep and 3 feet wide.
Place organic matter, such as leaves or compost, kitchen scraps, composted manure, etc. in the bottom of the trench.
Plant your banana pups around the inner edge of the circle, leaving space for growth.
Backfill the trench with soil and water thoroughly.
Mulch the area around the circle to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Care Tips for the Best Tasting Banana
To ensure healthy and fruitful banana plants, follow these care tips:
Feeding Your Bananas
Fertilizing bananas is essential for promoting healthy growth and maximizing fruit production. The timing and nutrient requirements may vary based on the growth stage and the specific USDA growing zone in Florida. In general, it is recommended to fertilize bananas during the active growing season, which typically spans from spring to early fall.
USDA Zone 8
For USDA Zone 8, it is advisable to apply fertilizer in early spring, around March or April, to provide the necessary nutrients for robust growth. Repeat the application every six to eight weeks until early fall.
USDA Zone 9
In USDA Zone 9, where the growing season is longer, you can begin fertilizing in late winter or early spring, around February or March. Continue fertilization every six to eight weeks throughout the growing season.
USDA Zone 10
In USDA Zone 10, with its year-round warm climate, bananas benefit from regular fertilization. Begin fertilizing in early spring and continue every six to eight weeks, maintaining a consistent nutrient supply.
The Macros and Micros
When it comes to nutrient requirements, bananas have specific needs to thrive. The primary macronutrients required are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The recommended NPK formula for edible bananas is generally around 3-1-6 or 2-1-6. This means that the fertilizer should have a higher potassium content compared to nitrogen and phosphorus. This balanced ratio helps promote healthy foliage growth, sturdy stems, and enhanced fruit development.
In addition to the macronutrients, bananas also require various micronutrients for optimal growth. Some essential micronutrients for bananas include magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), and boron (B). These micronutrients play crucial roles in enzyme activation, chlorophyll production, and overall plant health. It is recommended to use a fertilizer that includes these micronutrients in its formulation or supplement with micronutrient-specific products as needed.
Organic Fertilizer for Bananas
For those preferring organic alternatives to commercial fertilizers, several options are available. Organic materials such as compost, well-rotted manure, and worm castings can provide a rich source of nutrients for bananas. Additionally, organic fertilizers made from natural sources like fish emulsion, seaweed extracts, and bone meal can be effective in meeting the nutritional needs of banana plants. These organic alternatives offer sustainable options while nourishing the soil and supporting healthy growth.
Irrigation for Bananas
Bananas require consistent moisture. Provide regular deep watering to keep the soil evenly moist.
Mulching helps suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Use chop and drop when trimming browned leaves. They will break down in the soil and provide nutrients while helping to retain moisture in the soil until they do.
It’s especially important to provide water throughout the winter and spring in Central and South Florida. Once you pass your last freeze date, you’ll need to water your bananas regularly until the rainy season begins.
How to Harvest Your Banana Crop
Bananas typically take around 9-15 months to mature, depending on the variety. Once the flower has produced as much fruit as it will, the bananas will begin to grow larger and become plump.
At this point, you can cut off the remaining flower if you like. I haven’t noticed any difference between leaving them on or cutting them off. Many people enjoy eating banana flowers in regional dishes, but I normally cut them down to prevent stressing the pseudostem. I drop them into the middle of the circle to compost.
Once they reach their mature size, the top bananas on the stalk will begin to turn yellow. That’s when it’s time to harvest.
You can harvest each hand of bananas individually as they become ripe, if you choose. Cut them from the stalk with a sharp knife.
Alternatively, you can harvest the whole stalk by cutting it about 10-12″ above the top hand of bananas. You can hang them up in a utility room or garage to finish ripening.
Note that the bananas will begin to fall off the stem as they ripen, so you’ll want to make sure you harvest them regularly so you don’t end up with a pile of rotten bananas under the stalk.
The Tragedy of Bananas
Once a banana plants fruits, it will die off. So, you won’t get any more bananas from the same plant once it has. However, you will get new banana plants growing from the rhizomes below.
Many times, you’ll see several pop up before the plant even blooms, which is reassuring when you realize that the plant will die after fruiting.
I’ve noticed that Dwarf Cavendish will definitely throw out two or three pups before blooming. I have a few other varieties that I’ve forgotten the names of that don’t send up pups as prolifically.
Sometimes you’ll get more pups from the rhizome, even though the mother plant appears to be completely dead. If you’re using the banana circle method, allow the “tree” to brown and dry out completely. Once it is completely dead, you can just push it over and allow it to gently decompose within the circle.
Time to Grow Bananas in Florida
By now, you’re equipped with the knowledge you need to grow bananas in your Florida garden. Take advantage of the summer rainy season to get your own mini-plantation going this summer.
Roll up your sleeves, get your hands dirty, and embrace the joy of growing bananas in Florida. Start your journey towards self-sustainability and enjoy the delectable flavors of homegrown tropical fruits right in your own backyard. Happy gardening!
I have to admit it — I have an embarrassingly gullible sweet tooth. Always have had. So, when I first discovered sweet potatoes as a kid, I was hooked. A vegetable that tastes like dessert — it doesn’t get any better than that. I still have a sweet tooth, and when I discovered I could grow sweet potatoes in Florida year-round, I became doubly hooked.
In fact, the ability to grow sweet potatoes, bananas, and pineapples in my backyard is probably the reason I still live in Florida. In the face of increasing heat and some increasingly scary weather. In the face of skyrocketing housing and insurance costs. In the face of the — let’s admit it — pretty awful and kind of unfair reputation we residents of the state have amongst the rest of the world.
But I get sweet potatoes and bananas and pineapples (sometimes) out of my sandy dirt, and that makes it all worth it.
Sweet potatoes are not only delicious but incredibly nutritious. They’re one of the few familiar and beloved staple foods we can grow in abundance in subtropical regions like Florida.
One of the reasons I blog about the plants I grow (and those I just want to grow) is to remind myself of all the details and shortcuts I’ve discovered over the years. It helps me to remember when I share on my blog, and so many (too many!) times I simply forget that I need to plant things a certain way by a certain time.
So, I’m going to cover what I know about sweet potatoes here. Although you can grow sweet potatoes in Florida at any time of year, the summer months are really the last chance you’ll have to plant them in time for those sweet-potato-eating holidays we all know and love around the end of the calendar year.
So, let’s get started…
Sweet Potatoes Have a Backstory
Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are native to Central and South America. They’re most closely related to morning glories, not white potatoes.
Morning glories and moonflowers (both Ipomea species) are native to Florida, so our state is a prime candidate for sweet potato production.
I remember reading that, many years ago, Florida farmers grew Irish (white) potatoes from January to April, then sweet potatoes from May to November. It was one of the state’s most profitable crops.
(Why or how we bothered to go into the orange juice business is a mystery to me.)
Sweet potatoes have a sprawling growth habit that covers lots of ground and produces cute little pinkish-purple flowers that resemble those of their cousins, the morning glory. Most importantly, they produce delicious edible tubers.
History and Spread of Sweet Potatoes:
Sweet potatoes have a rich history dating at least 5,000 years. They were first domesticated in Central or South America, and eventually even ended up in Polynesia (archeologists are still trying to figure out how, although “boat” is the KISS answer to that one.)
When you have something as awesome as sweet potatoes, word gets around. Soon, anywhere on the planet with a long enough warm season to grow them was producing their own crops.
Over time, sweet potatoes became a valuable crop, adapting to different growing conditions and evolving into numerous cultivated varieties.
Sweet Potato Varieties for Florida
There are several popular cultivars of sweet potatoes grown for food in the United States. Here are some noteworthy varieties:
Beauregard
Beauregard sweet potatoes have a vining growth habit, producing long and sprawling vines that can spread across the garden. They require ample space to grow and are often trained along trellises or allowed to spread on the ground.
They’re relatively easy to grow, making them a popular choice among home gardeners and farmers. They also have good resistance to pests and diseases, and their vigorous vines provide good ground cover, suppressing weed growth and protecting the soil from excess sun and heat.
Beauregard sweet potatoes were developed at Louisiana State University and released in 1987. Since then, they’ve become one of the most widely grown sweet potato cultivars.
Beauregard sweet potatoes have a reddish-brown skin and a bright orange flesh. The skin is relatively smooth and easy to peel, while the flesh is firm and moist.
Beauregard sweet potatoes are smooth and creamy when cooked. Not too dry and not too moist, they’re pretty versatile in the kitchen.
They have a sweet and nutty flavor with hints of honey and caramel. They are known for their pleasing taste, and their flavor intensifies when cooked. They’re sweet, but not TOO sweet, with a well-rounded flavor.
Centennial
Centennial sweet potatoes have a vining growth habit similar to Beauregard. They produce long, sprawling vines that require ample space to grow and spread. You can trellis them or allow them to spread on the ground.
They’re relatively easy to grow and are well-suited to the Florida climate. They have good resistance to pests and diseases and can thrive with proper care.
Centennial sweet potatoes were also developed at Louisiana State University and released in 1967. They have a light coppery skin color with a pale orange flesh. The skin is smooth and thin, making it easy to handle.
Centennial sweet potatoes are creamy and moister than Beauregards. They has a smooth, velvety texture when cooked and they’re not overly fibrous.
They have a mildly sweet flavor with a subtle nuttiness. They are not overly sugary and have a pleasant balance between sweetness and earthiness.
Vardaman
Vardaman sweet potatoes are a bush variety, meaning they have compact growth and shorter vines. They don’t require as much space as vining varieties. If you’re growing in a small garden or in containers, they’re your best choice.
They’re generally easy to grow and suitable for the Florida climate. They have good resistance to pests and diseases, making them a reliable choice for gardeners.
Vardaman sweet potatoes were developed at the Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station and were released in 1982.
These tubers have a reddish-brown skin color with a light yellow flesh that darkens once removed from the soil. The skin is slightly rough and may have shallow indentations.
Vardaman sweet potatoes are moderately firm and moist. They have a smooth texture when cooked but may have a slightly drier consistency compared to some other sweet potato cultivars.
Vardaman sweet potatoes have a rich, sweet flavor with hints of honey and caramel. They are known for their intense sweetness, making them a favorite among those who prefer sweeter varieties. The flavor is often described as luscious and candy-like, perfect for indulgent holiday meals.
All three cultivars thrive in Florida’s climate, and all three offer different flavors and textures. All three are listed on the UF/IFAS University of Florida Gardening Solutions website as the best sweet potato varieties for Florida gardeners.
Some other varieties to experiment with include:
Georgia Jet
Reddish-orange skin and sweet, moist flesh. It matures relatively quickly and is well-suited for shorter growing seasons. Good disease resistance and adaptability.
Murasaki
Striking purple skin and creamy white flesh, they offer a slightly drier texture and a unique, nutty flavor. This variety originates from Japan and has gained popularity for its vibrant color and distinctive taste.
Bonita
Tan skin and light-colored flesh, they have a smooth texture and mild nutty flavor. This newer variety is gaining attention for its versatility in both savory and sweet dishes.
Growing Sweet Potato Slips
Sweet potato slips are the young shoots that are grown from a mature sweet potato. These slips can be transplanted into the garden or containers to grow into full-sized sweet potato plants.
Many gardening gurus and ag experts will tell you to purchase certified, disease-free sweet potato slips to plant in your garden. That’s always a safe bet, but the last couple of years have shown us that you can’t always get what you want – sometimes, you can’t even order it online.
If you can’t find them for sale (or choose not to buy them), it’s really easy to grow your own sweet potato slips. The only real disadvantage is that it takes quite a long time. It has often taken me up to two months to get slips, which means that if you haven’t started early enough and decide to buy the, it’s likely there won’t be any for sale left anyway.
Growing Your Own Slips
If you want to try growing your own slips, here are two methods used:
Water glass method for growing sweet potato slips
The water glass method involves suspending the sweet potato in water to encourage the growth of slips. Here’s how you can do it:
Select a healthy, medium-sized sweet potato. Ensure that it is free from blemishes or rot.
Place the sweet potato horizontally in a glass jar or container, partially submerged in water. Use toothpicks or skewers inserted into the sides of the sweet potato to hold it in place, ensuring that the bottom end is submerged.
Place the jar or container in a warm location that receives ample sunlight. A windowsill or a sunny spot indoors is ideal.
Change the water every few days to prevent stagnation and maintain cleanliness.
After a couple of weeks, small sprouts known as slips will begin to emerge from the sweet potato. Allow them to grow to a height of 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm).
Carefully remove the slips from the sweet potato, gently twisting them to detach them from the parent tuber.
Place the slips in a small cup of water for a few days to encourage root growth.
Once the roots have developed, the slips are ready for transplanting into well-prepared soil in the garden or containers.
Potting Soil Method for growing sweet potato slips
The potting soil method involves directly planting the sweet potato in a container with potting soil to encourage slip growth. Here’s how you can do it:
Fill a shallow container or pot with well-draining potting soil about halfway.
Lay your sweet potatoes on their sides and cover it the rest of the way with potting mix.
Place the container in a warm location that receives ample sunlight, such as a sunny windowsill or a greenhouse.
Keep the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
After a few weeks, slips will start emerging from the sweet potato and grow above the soil surface.
Allow the slips to reach a length of 10 to 12 inches before gently detaching them from the sweet potato.
Carefully remove the slips from the soil, ensuring that you don’t damage their delicate roots.
Transplant the slips into individual pots or directly into well-prepared garden soil.
Both of these methods work. I prefer the potting soil method because I believe you get better root growth in soil than when propagating in water.
However, you should choose whichever method that suits you and your available resources best.
Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Florida Garden
Sweet potatoes are a long-season plant and take some months to mature. Depending on the variety, they can take from 90 to 120 days to form adequate tubers.
Sweet potatoes need a warm climate with temperatures between 75-95°F. They require well-draining soil, full sun, and moderate humidity.
Zone 8: In Zone 8 of Florida, plant sweet potatoes from mid-April to late May.
Zone 9: In Zone 9, the recommended planting time is from early March to mid-May.
Zone 10: Gardeners in Zone 10 can plant sweet potatoes from late February to early June.
These planting schedules reflect timing that lets you harvest mature tubers before any chance of freeze in December. However, note that in many parts of Central Florida and all parts of South Florida, you can plant sweet potatoes at any time of year. You may just not be able to harvest them before a freeze.
In Zones 9 and 10, sweet potatoes are frequently perennial and will simply bounce back from any freeze, even if the foliage dies off.
Even during the three nights of freeze and one night of near-freeze last December 2022, none of my sweet potatoes died back at all.
Plot Preparation for Sweet Potatoes:
Sweet potatoes prefer plenty of space to grow. Clear the area of any weeds or vegetation.
You may need to loosen the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches, if it’s badly compacted. You can take the opportunity to add compost and any other soil amendments.
If you are planning well ahead, you can also prepare your plot with the Back to Eden method or use the No-Dig prep method by covering your future potato patch with cardboard and a thick layer of compost or mulch.
Water the area down well and regularly, and you should be able to plant into it in about 4 to 5 months.
Best Growing Conditions for Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes aren’t picky, but you’ll want to give them good growing conditions for optimum yield.
Soil
Sweet potatoes thrive in loose, sandy soil rich in organic matter. Aim for a pH range of 5.8-6.2 for optimal nutrient availability.
Light
Provide full sun exposure to ensure vigorous growth and maximum tuber development.
Temperatures
Sweet potatoes prefer warm temperatures between 75-95°F (24-35°C). They are sensitive to frost, so wait until your last frost date to get them started in the ground. Mature plants are more hardy than newly planted slips.
Water
Sweet potato slips should be well watered when first planted in the ground. If you’re planting before the beginning of the rainy season in June (and most people do), you may need to water every day until they are well established and beginning to vine over the beds.
Afterward, provide consistent moisture. You may need to water two or three times a week if it doesn’t rain.
Planting Sweet Potato Slips:
Dig a small hole for your sweet potato slips 12-18 inches apart. You can plant in grids or in rows, as best fits your garden space.
If you haven’t amended the soil, you may want to dig in a little Espoma BioTone to help your plants get established and strong.
Bury the slips halfway into the soil, leaving the top half exposed.
Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.
Caring for Sweet Potato Plants
Care after planting out is pretty straightforward.
Mulching
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, will help to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain an even soil temperature.
Fertilization
Sweet potatoes benefit from regular feeding. Use a balanced fertilizer or organic amendments rich in phosphorus and potassium.
Pruning
Prune back any excess vines or suckers to focus energy on tuber development. They will try to crawl away and root down the length of the vine, which reduces the yield of tubers.
I recall one very experienced Florida gardener of my acquaintance said never to let them root more than three nodes from the planting spot.
Well, I think that’s what she said.
Besides, you can also prune them back and eat the greens if you like. (I compost them or feed them to my bunnies, which is really the same thing when I think about it.)
Pest and Disease Control
Monitor for pests like sweet potato weevils and aphids. Sweet potato flea beetles can eat up the leaves. Employ organic pest control methods when necessary. Cypress and eucalyptus mulch can deter weevils. And nasturtiums make a good trap crop for aphids.
Tips for Increasing Yields on Sweet Potatoes
Provide adequate spacing between plants for good airflow and tuber expansion.
Prune back excess vine growth.
Improve soil with organic matter and appropriate fertilizers.
Ensure consistent moisture throughout the growing season.
Harvesting Sweet Potatoes
You can begin to harvest your sweet potatoes when the vines start to yellow and die back, typically around 90-120 days after planting.
Gently loosen the soil around the base of the plant and carefully lift the tubers using a garden fork or spade.
Handle sweet potatoes with care to avoid bruising or cutting the tubers.
Do not wash your sweet potatoes. You’ll want to cure them first, and then wash them when you’re ready to eat them. You can vigorously brush off any dirt if you like, but be careful of cutting or scraping away the skin.
Curing Sweet Potatoes:
Curing sweet potatoes after harvest improves their flavor, texture, and storage life. What you want is for them to cure in a warm, humid area for about a week or even two.
You can cure sweet potatoes outdoors by laying them in a single layer on the ground, preferably on a dry, warm surface, for 4-7 days. However, you’ll want to gather them up or cover them up if it rains.
You can also place sweet potatoes in a warm, well-ventilated space, such as a basement or garage, with a temperature of 85-90°F (29-32°C) and 85-90% humidity for 4-7 days. You can use a small room or closet with a space heater and a humidifier.
I’ve cured mine at lower temperatures for about two weeks at 76°F to 78°F with good results. I packed them loosely in a crate, padded with crumpled paper to keep them from touching.
And They’re Good For You, To Boot
The nutritional breakdown of sweet potatoes is pretty impressive for something that tastes so good. A 1-cup serving of cooked sweet potatoes contains approximately:
Calories: 180
Carbohydrates: 41 grams
Fiber: 6 grams
Protein: 4 grams
Fat: 0 grams
Vitamin A: 769% of the daily recommended intake (DRI)
Vitamin C: 65% of the DRI
Potassium: 18% of the DRI
Calcium: 4% of the DRI
Iron: 6% of the DRI
If you’re serious about growing your own food in Florida and aren’t sure where to start, sweet potatoes offer an answer. Not only are they very well suited to the climate, but they’ll also grow through the summer here when precious little else does.
Whether you’re growing them as a staple source of calories or because you have a sweet tooth like I do, they’re definitely worth trying.
It’s been a cold winter and a dry spring, but now it’s June and the summer garden in Central Florida is … well … hot, wet, full of bugs, and still struggling.
But that’s okay. Zone 10 and Zone 9 Florida gardening is usually filled with challenges. Who else still has debris from Hurricane Ian or Hurricane Nicole? I know I do!
The rains have finally started, although it may be too little, too late. We need the rain badly, and for anyone growing perennials or trying to establish a food forest, the rains are always welcome.
Vegetable Gardening – What Can I Plant in June in Florida?
What are you planting in June this year in Florida? Are you ready for the challenge? There are a few vegetable varieties, specifically tropical edibles, that love our summer heat and humidity.
Very few of the traditional vegetables will make it if planted between now and August. It really isn’t the heat – it’s the humidity. In fact, the temperature often settles to a relatively comfortable level in the summer, thanks to the overcast skies and the regular rains.
But anything with any susceptibility to fungal disease won’t make it.
So long, tomatoes!
It’s been fun, cukes!
Sayonara, squash!
A few vegetables you can plant in June in all Florida gardening zones include:
Note that basil, oregano, and rosemary love the heat but hate the humidity. If you can keep them under some cover to keep them from drowning, they will love you for it.
What I’m planting in June 2023
Vegetable gardening is taking a bit of a backseat in my backyard this year. I still have peppers and watermelons that I’m hoping to keep harvesting for a while.
The yard-long beans are producing faster than I can prep them for storage.
But the big project this summer is nursery expansion.
We’ll be adding more covered space with a new greenhouse (or two) to increase the growing area. And the gardening focus is on building inventory.
I’ll be air-layering star jasmine and propagating cuttings of plumbago, fire bush, bougainvillea, and golden dew drop.
And of course more mulberry trees.
Summer is also a good time to start perennial flowers from seed. I’m hoping to have more salvias and blue butterfly pea vine plants to ship soon.
I’ll also be stocking up the inventory for more annual seeds for the shop.
Fruit Trees Love the Summer Garden in Central Florida
My family loves bananas, and it’s a good thing, because we have dozens of banana “trees,” with at least 10 in flower or fruiting.
The rainy season is a good time to get your own banana circle started. Bananas need a lot of moisture, especially to get established.
I’m hoping to start carrying banana plants in the nursery next spring, but for now, I’ll just enjoy being a home grower.
Flower Gardening — What can I plant in June in Florida?
If you’re uninspired by the small range of edibles to grow in the summer garden in Central Florida, you’ll be happy to know that adding flowers for pollinators is always in season.
You’ll find a wide range of heat-tolerant and even heat-loving flowers that attract bees and butterflies to your yard. Getting a good pollinator garden established now will come in handy in September and October when your cucumbers need pollinating.
Some great varieties for Florida gardening zone 9 and 10 are:
If you’ve ever wept over pounds of scabby-looking tomatoes, pocked with yellow spots, and covered by horrible little orange insects, then you know the pain of dealing with leaf-footed bugs (squash bugs) is real.
I tried this.
It works.
You really need to soak the little buggers down, but it works.
Go forth and claim back your garden from the leaf-footed menace.
One of the reasons we can grow year-round in Florida is because most of the state sits on the border of temperate and tropical climates. So, it doesn’t take much to push the edges of your growing season. In fact, you can often push them right into the next season. It gives us more leeway to take advantage of Florida garden microclimates that can make all the difference between winter and spring.
Florida does get too cold to garden. We found that out over Christmas 2022, when temperatures reached below or near freezing for four nights in a row throughout the state.
It also gets too dang hot in the summer for most garden vegetables. And if it’s not technically too hot, it’s too humid or just too rainy.
The good news is that there are specific steps you can take to both identify and create specialized microclimates in your garden that will improve your results.
Identifying Your Own Florida Garden Microclimates
When you think about garden design, you may think of the grand landscape gardens of England or the highly restrained gardens in the Western U.S. Both design approaches create a serene and inviting garden space.
However, it’s hard to find many examples of the best way to design a garden for food production or self-sufficiency. Of course, you could take a permaculture course or hire a consultant.
I personally would love to try out David the Good’s Grocery Row Gardening system, but honestly, I just don’t have the room. My growing space has already been designed in a circular pattern, and there’s no way to put up rows of anything without tearing out a lot of already established plantings.
However, if you don’t have the time or patience — at least right now — for a full-scale re-engineering of your property, you’re probably just looking for a few ideas for a new setup or ways to tweak your current layout.
The first step is identifying the microclimates that already exist on your property and making the most of them by choosing the right plants for them.
Bananas can help create microclimates in a Florida Garden
Finding the Hot Spots
Finding a sunny spot in a Florida garden isn’t really a difficult task, usually. However, sometimes you want warmth without actually having more sun. For example, during the winter, shade-loving plants need protection from any cold snap without getting burned (ask my coffee plants, and they’ll tell you).
Heat-Loving Edible Plants for Florida
Florida gardeners plant a wide variety of heat-loving plants. But there’s a catch. Only the most heat-tolerant of these will survive our summer conditions. Many won’t make it past May or June unless they are already well-established and already in fruit.
That said, finding the warm pockets of your garden is important when you want to take advantage of our mild spring and long autumn conditions.
Some of the most common heat-loving plants we grow include:
Peppers
Tomatoes
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Melon
Squash
Once you find those warmer microclimates, you can plant out these vegetables in late February or grow them through November and even December. Sometimes, you can grow peppers and tomatoes year-round in Florida.
Identifying Warm Microclimates
First and most obvious, look for the areas of your garden that get the most sun or the longest length of sun. It sometimes pays to spend a day off checking for the patterns of light and shade throughout the day.
You’ll also have to repeat this fact-finding mission several times a year as the angle of the sun changes. However, once you spend a year’s worth of seasons taking notes every month or three, you won’t have to repeat this unless there are drastic changes in the environment.
Other things to look for when determining your garden microclimates are:
Look for areas around your home or shed. Most cement-block houses, ubiquitous in Florida, absorb heat throughout the day and can provide a pocket of warmth throughout the night. Even the light-colored ones. I have to move everything away from the south-facing walls during the summer, or even the peppers and tomatoes fry by 4 pm.
Areas under trees and tall bushes often hold in heat and can create a warm microclimate of their own. While this may not be a great place for sun-loving plants, it’s usually superior for those shade-loving plants (i.e. coffee plants). It’s also a great place to move container plants during a cold snap for temporary protection.
Find the low-lying areas of your garden space. They’re less exposed to the wind and tend to retain heat better.
Look for dark, dense soils, as they retain both water and heat better than sandy soils. You may not have any to work with but do check to be sure.
Looking for Moisture Retention
Florida is known for its marshes and wetlands. This means we have some beautiful native plant species specially adapted to damp conditions. I’m currently cultivating scarlet mallow and looking forward to sharing these beautiful native hibiscus-type blooms with customers in a couple of months.
Moisture Loving Edible Plants for Florida
Edible plants that we commonly grow in Florida that prefer damp feet include:
Cabbages
Cauliflower
Snow and Snap peas
Arugula
Taro root
And most ironically, except for Taro, most of these are winter plants, which are the driest month of the year in Florida. While it’s far more pleasant to spend time outdoors with a garden hose when it’s 70°F rather than 95°F, it does become time-consuming and expensive. Not to mention the drain on the fresh water supply.
To save on watering costs, look for the areas of your garden space that provides the best water retention. Some things to look for are:
Areas with some mid-day shade
Low-lying areas where rainwater accumulates
Places near bushes or hedges
Heavier soils with some clay content
North-facing areas where less sunlight results in less evaporation
Other thirsty vegetables you might want to grow in low-lying areas that also offer plenty of sunlight include cucumbers, peppers, and squash. Sometimes, it’s just a matter of recognizing the angle of sunlight during the summer vs. the winter.
Sad Tomato
Finding Areas with Excellent Drainage
Some edible plants really need good drainage to thrive. Normally, they’re well suited to growing in our sandy soil. However, if you’ve ever had to watch a once-beautiful and well-established rosemary bush suffer, drown, and die after a Florida rainy season, you’ll understand why finding the dry parts of your garden can be critical.
Arid-Loving Plants for Florida Vegetable Gardens
Many edible plants commonly grown in Florida enjoy the good drainage of our sandy soil. Some will even thrive during the hottest part of the year.
Those that prefer dry conditions include:
Most Mediterranean culinary herbs
Rosemary
Sage
Thyme
Oregano
Marjoram
Chard
Eggplant
Grain amaranth
Irish potatoes
Okra
Southern peas
Sweet potatoes
Drought-Tolerant Chard
In most cases, finding the warmest spots in the garden will help create drier conditions, but also look for:
Longest hours of sun exposure (and hence, evaporation)
Light-colored, sandy soil (which is easy to find in Florida)
Elevated areas upslope that provide the best drainage during summer rainstorms
Open areas with a lower concentration of plants
Understanding Florida Garden Microclimates is a Critical Skill
With wilder weather patterns and increasing shifts and instability of seasonal conditions, Florida gardeners who are determined to grow their own food simply need to understand how microclimates work.
For example, the record-breaking freezes of Christmas 2022 truly revealed how well using the right planting location can work. I know I learned a few lessons. The heat-loving peppers I had out in the garden stood up just fine to the freezes under a light cover. That’s because they were planted near a banana circle, which provided both a warmer microclimate and protection from the wind.
In contrast, more cold-tolerant plants that were not under a tree canopy simply gave up the ghost.
When growing vegetables over winter in Florida, the wind is just as much a threat as frost during a cold snap.
Mapping Microclimates
There are ways to make your existing Florida garden microclimates more functional as well as ways to create new microclimates you may not already have. That’s a subject for a future post. To get started, note down the ones that currently exist that you can work with.
It’s a good idea to map out the existing microclimates in your garden. If you’re interested in supporting this blog and need a well-organized place to keep those maps and notes, then pick up our Florida garden planner. It has grid sheets where you can map out any of your garden beds individually or as an overall master plan.
The old adage “Right Plant, Right Place,” is a universal gardening Truth. Identifying the microclimates in your Florida garden is the first step to mastering this skill.
Most Florida gardeners are starting to plan our fall gardens right about now. Even if it’s still way too hot to work outside. We can sit indoors in the air conditioning with a sweet tea, watching the storms, dreaming of an abundance of vegetables in just a few months. But what vegetable varieties are you planning?
If you’re wondering what vegetables to grow in Florida, the answer is all of them!
English plantswoman and gardening icon Beth Chatto taught us “Right plant, right place.”
In Florida, we get another dimension – the right time.
We’re heading for fall. We’re ready for fall. We know when. We even know where.
All we need now is to know which are the right plants.
Understanding Vegetable Varieties
Plants fall into different families, and these are separated into different genera, and then different species.
Within species, say, tomatoes, you’ll find different “varieties.” Some are natural varieties produced by mutation. Others have been cultivated by people for specific characteristics..
Plant Families
Plants in the same families share similar characteristics in their germination, growth, flowering, and fruiting habits. Some of the most common plant families in home gardening include these plant families.
Many gardeners swear by rotating every plot on their land by these plant families. Theoretically, any soil disease or pest that develops over one season is sure to damage the same type of plant in the following season.
The issue of nutrients is also a factor. Some plant families all require a great deal of nitrogen. Repeatedly growing members of these plant families in the same plot can lead to nitrogen depletion and poor results.
Common Plant Families in Gardening
While not wholly inclusive, the following represent some of the more common plant families in home gardens.
Solanaceae
Also known as the “nightshade” family, this group includes some of the most popular home garden vegetables.
Tomatoes
Peppers
Eggplants
Tomatillo
Irish Potatoes
Cucurbitaceae
We often refer to these as cucurbits, and this family (for gardening purposes) includes many vining gourds:
Cucumbers
Pumpkins
Zucchini
Butternut squash
Melons
Fabaceae
This is the legume family, which are those that harvest nitrogen from the atmosphere and store it in nodules in their roots. This includes a wide range of garden beans as well as other crops, like clover and alfalfa, which fix nitrogen into the soil in the same way.
Bush beans
Pole beans
English Peas
Snow peas
Southern peas
Brassicaceae
Commonly referred to as cole crops, the brassicas include all those wonderful winter vegetables with dark green and delicious leaves.
Broccoli
Mustard greens
Cabbages
Collards
Turnips
Radishes
Alliaceae
Even a homegrown meal would be a little dull without these members of the onion, or allium, family.
Onions
Green onions
Garlic
Shallots
Chives
Lamiaceae
Many of our culinary herbs are members of this family, often called the “mint” family.
Mint
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Oregano
Apiaceae
These cool-season crops are all members of the parsley family, and include:
Carrots
Parsley
Cilantro
Fennel
Celery
Chenopodiaceae
We don’t normally call these by their common name, the “Goosefoot” family, but this group includes:
Beets
Chard
Spinach
Asteraceae
Although they look nothing alike, many home gardeners grow members of the “aster” family in their home gardens:
Lettuce
Artichoke
Sunflower
Vegetable Varieties and Hybrids
So, if you’re wondering which of these vegetables to grow in Florida, the answer is any of them that you want, as long as you plant in the right season for our wonky weather. However, if you want to improve your rate of success, you’ll look for varieties that have proven themselves in our climate.
What are Vegetable Varieties
You may have heard the term “variety” or may have seen the term “cultivar.” Many gardeners use them interchangeably, and I suppose I am one of them, although I know better.
When it comes to vegetables, however, home gardeners only need to understand the difference between a variety and a hybrid. Especially if you grow from seed.
Varieties are a type of plant that is in all important aspects just like any other member of its species. However, it has demonstrated a small difference, such as the color of the flower or the shape of the fruit.
Nature is wonderful. It’s always mutating to fill the gaps.
Gardening in Florida is one of those gaps. Trying to grow vegetables that most of us recognize and want to eat in a subtropical climate is definitely a specialized niche. A gap, as it were.
So, you may find that some naturally occurring varieties do better in our climate than others. In some cases, careful scientists from our heroic Ag Department have spent years nurturing these sports to ensure they will perform true to type.
What are Vegetable Hybrids
Then there are hybrids. Hybrid seeds are often one-offs that have been bred to perform in specific conditions.
F1 Hybrid: A combination of two distinct varieties of plants that will produce a known result.
F2 Hybrid: Seeds produced by self or open pollination in F1 plant fruits
F3 Hybrid: Seeds produced by self or open pollination F2 plants
You’ll rarely find F2 or F3 seeds for sale because the results can vary so much. You may collect them and experiment with them.
You’ll definitely find plenty of F1 Hybrid plant seeds on the market when you’re shopping for your fall garden. They have some distinct advantages and two very solid disadvantages.
Pros
Bred for a unique or particularly attractive appearance
Combines the best of two parent varieties
Generally produced to be resistant to several diseases
Cons
Usually expensive
Not a good candidate for seed saving
Choosing the Best Vegetable Varieties for Florida Gardens
Now you know a few of the basics about what constitutes a variety and a hybrid. You’re going to want to know which ones the best for your garden.
YMMV – which to me, in gardening, means, “Your Microclimate May Vary.”
I’ve collected some varieties (and hybrids) for consideration. These selections have been recommended by Florida state Ag experts or other experienced growers. Some have been solid gold winners for me.
Some are heirlooms, some are simply open-pollinated, and some are hybrids. Knowing which they are can help you decide to buy or not. This may depend on your budget and your desire to save seed for next season.
All are in alphabetical order.
Bush Beans
Annihilator
Bush Blue Lake
Cherokee Wax
Contender
Roma II
Royal burgundy
Tenderette
Tendergreen improved
Pole Beans
Blue Lake
Dixie Butterpea Lima beans
Early Thorogreen Lima beans
Foodhook 242 Lima beans
Kentucky Wonder
McCaslan
Storage / Shell Beans
Wase Adzuki
Beans, Long/Snake
Kurosanjaku
Mosaic Yardlong Beans
Red Noodle
White Seeded
You Fong Wong Yardlong Beans
Beets
Asgrow Wonder
Cylindra
Detroit Dark Red
Early Wonder
Green Top
Little Ball
Pacemaker III
Red Ace
Heading Broccoli
Early Dividend
Early Green
Green Duke
Green Goliath
Green Sprouting
Packman
Waltham
Sprouting/Flowering Broccoli
Calabrese
De Cicco
Piracicaba
Brussels Sprouts
Jade Cross
Long Island Improved
Cabbage
Bravo
Bronco
Copenhagen market
Flat Dutch
Rio Verde
Round Dutch
Savoy Red Acre
Wakefield
Asian Greens and Cabbages
Cabbage Blues
Choho Hybrid Tatsoi
Early Mizuna
Green Rocket
Green Spray Mibuna
Jung Green
Kosaitai
Okame Hybrid Spinach
Red Komatsuna Tatsoi
Shuka Flowering
Tokyo Bekana
Wakamine Green
Melons
Ambrosia Cantaloupe
Athena Cantaloupe
Charleston Grey 133 watermelon
Crimson Sweet watermelon
Florida Giant watermelon
Galia Cantaloupe
Ginkaku Korean Melon
Hakucho Charentais Cantaloupe
Hime Kansen Icebox Watermelon
Honey Rock Cantaloupe
Ichiba Kouji Honeydew
Jubilee Watermelon
Sugar Baby Watermelon
Carrots
Chantenay
Danvers
Imperator 58
Kuroda Subtropical
Lunar White
Nantes
Purple Haze
Solar Yellow
White Satin
Cauliflower
Brocoverde
Cheddar
Graffiti
Snow Crow
Snowball
Celery
Conquistador
Giant Pascal
Giant Red
Golden Pascal
Utah
Collards
Georgia
Georgia Southern
Morris Heading
Top Bunch
Vates
Corn, Sweet
Early Sunglow
How Sweet It Is
Kandy Korn
Merit
Peaches and Cream
Silver Queen
Sweet Ice
Sweet Riser
Corn, Field
Black Aztec
Bloody butcher
Blue Clarage
Hickory King
Johnson County White
Mandan Bride
Reid’s Yellow
Roy’s Calais
Seneca Red
Tennessee Red Cob
Trucker’s Favorite
Cucumber, Slicing
Ashley
Bush Slicer
Cherokee
Dasher II
General Lee
Greensleeves
Marketmore 76
Poinsett
Sooyow Nishiki
Speedway
Summer Dance
Sweet Success
Thunder
Cucumber, Pickling
Boston
Calypso
Eureka
Jackson classic
Napoleon
Royal
Transamerica
Endive
Batavian Broadleaf
Garlic
Lorz Italian
Thermadrone
Eggplant
Asian Bride
Black Beauty
Cloud Nine
Dusky Long
Florida Market
Ichiban
Mizuno Takumi
Shoyo Long
Kale
Blue Curled Scotch
Dwarf Blue
Lacinato (dinosaur)
Red Russian
Siberian
Suiho Chinese
Winterbor
Kohlrabi
Early White Vienna
Purple Vienna
Lettuce
Heading
Bibb
Buttercrunch
Ermosa
Great Lakes
Manoa
Okayama Buttercrunch
Tom Thumb
Looseleaf
Black Seeded Simpson
Oak Leaf
Red Deer Tongue
Red Fire Leaf
Red Sails
Ruby Red Leaf
Salad Bowl
Cos
Jericho Romaine
Outredgeous
Parris Island Cos
Red Romaine
Mustard Greens
Florida Broadleaf
Giant Red
Greenwave
Southern Giant Curled
Okra
Annie Oakley II
Burgundy
Cajun Delight
Clemson Spineless
Emerald
Jambalaya
Onion, Bulbing
Cippolini White
Granex
Granex Yellow
Matador Shallot
Shonan Red
Superex “Maui”
Texas Grano
Tropicana Red
White Libson
Onions, Green
Evergreen bunching
English peas
Green Arrow
Oregon Sugarpod II
Sugar Snap
Wando
Southern Peas
California Blackeye No 6
Hull
Pinkeye Purple
Pinkeye Purple Hull cowpeas
Southern Seminole
Texas Cream
Peppers, Sweet
Big Bertha
California Wonder
Chinese Big Red
Sweet Banana
Peppers, Hot
Ancho
Cayenne
Ghost pepper
Habanero
Hungarian Hot Wax
Jalapeno
Irish potatoes
French Fingerling
Red Pontiac
Yukon Gold
Pumpkins
Jack O Lantern
Seminole
Quinoa
Brightest Brilliant Rainbow
Radish
Cherry Belle
French Breakfast
Giant White Daikon
Hailtone
Karaine Daikon
Mantanghong Beauty
Scarlet Globe
Sparkler White
Rutabaga
American Purple Top
Spinach
Bloomsdale Longstanding
Viroflay
Summer Squash
Aehobak Korean
Black Beauty Zucchini
Chayote
Cocozelle Zucchini
Crookneck
Desert Zucchini hybrid
Early White Scallop
Spineless Beauty Zucchini
Teot Bat Avocado Squash
Winter Squash
Butterscotch Butternut
Calabaza
Spaghetti
Table Queen Acorn
Tatume
Waltham Butternut
Sweet Potatoes
Beauregard
Swiss Chard
Bright Lights
Canary
Fantasia Orange
Flamingo
Fordhook Giant
Perpetual Spinach
Pink Lipstick
Red Ruby
Determinate Tomatoes
Celebrity
Floradade
Floragold
Homestead
Maraglobe
Solar Set
Tasti-lee
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Amelia
Better Boy
Bonnie’s Best
Celebrity
Cherokee purple
Green Zebra
Heat Wave II
Mortgage Lifter
Cherry Tomatoes
Everglades
Gardener’s Delight
Sun Gold Cherry
Sweet 100
Sweetie
Paste Tomatoes
San Marzano
Turnips
Japanese Red Round
Purple Top White Globe
Seven Top
Strawberries
Camarosa
Chandler
Festival
Florida Beauty
Florida Brilliance
Florida Radiance
Oso Grande
Sweet Charlie
Sweet Sensation
Tropical Greens
Green Leaf Amaranth (callaloo)
Molokhia Egyptian Spinach
New Zealand spinach
Red Garnet Amaranth
White Leaf amaranth
Finding Seeds for the Best Vegetable Varieties to Grow in Florida
It’s not hard to find seeds many vegetable varieties for our subtropical climate. But you will need to look outside the box. Instead of shopping at the big box stores, check out smaller specialty suppliers.
With our mild winters and subtropical climate, many gardeners assume we can grow tomatoes all year round in Florida. The fact is that we can’t, but it’s not what you’d expect. Summer is a horrible time for anything but the semi-native, naturalized Everglades tomato variety. And sometimes it’s even too miserable for them.
Can you grow tomatoes in Florida in the winter? You sure can, if you approach it with some thoughtfulness. If you’ve never gardened before or you’re one of the many transplants from “up north,” it may seem like it’s hard to grow tomatoes at all in Florida.
But I remember growing up in the late 70s and hearing about the famous “Ruskin tomatoes.” They were a big deal in the Ohio suburbs, and since I was just a kid at the time, I can only speculate why. Before mass import of fresh produce became commonplace, Ruskin (Gulf Coast region, zone 9b-10a) was probably the first place to deliver fresh tomatoes in the spring in the Eastern U.S. So, obviously, you must be able to grow tomatoes in Florida in the winter, right?
If you look at some of the planting schedules published online for Florida, including our Florida Gardening Planner, you’ll note that for Central and South Florida, experts recommend starting tomato seeds for fall planting in August. My experience is that late July or any time in August is fine, and they’ll be ready for planting out in mid to late September.
This last year (2021) remained pretty hot and muggy well into October, so I felt comfortable planting out the remaining starter plants that month. In Central Florida, it currently stays pretty warm and mild throughout December, and we normally don’t get any real lows until January. That said, it’s pretty usual to have healthy, full-grown, and still-producing tomato plants on New Year’s Day.
But what about those cold snaps? How do you ensure that your tomatoes make it through the night? What’s the best way to grow tomatoes in the winter in Florida? How do you manage winter gardening in Florida when it’s impossible to predict the next cold snap?
Plan Early for Winter Growing
Getting your tomato seeds started in time is key to growing tomatoes over the winter in Florida. For zones 9 and 10, that means having starter plants ready to establish in the garden well before any temperature drops. Tomatoes should have at least 8 to 12 weeks in their final homes before cold nights hit to develop strong and healthy root systems.
Plant for Optimal Sun Exposure
Placement is also key to growing tomatoes in a Florida winter. Just because it’s 80 degrees doesn’t mean the days are any longer. Plant your tomatoes with southern exposure, ensuring they receive as much full sun as possible. You may have to water them more frequently but setting them up for success with plenty of sunlight will create more resilient plants.
This isn’t a technique recommended for growing tomatoes in the spring, when a little protection from the midday sun may be beneficial. For winter tomatoes, full sun is required.
Protect Against the Elements
Depending on where you live in Florida, winter winds can cause havoc. Coastal areas are particularly beaten by high winds. Plant your tomatoes where buildings or larger shrubs or trees can protect them from harsh gusts.
Reflect on This
A south-facing wall can help collect heat and reflect warmth back onto your plants during the night. So, whether you grow in containers or garden beds, take advantage of any light-colored walls that can help keep your tomato plants toasty warm.
Mindfulness
Paying attention to the weather forecast is a must for gardeners in any location. Take note of the forecast so you can prepare. The good news is that even when it drops below 50 degrees, or even 40 degrees, it rarely drops that low for long enough to completely kill your tomato plants.
Tomatoes don’t produce well with temperatures below 50 degrees F, but they can survive down to freezing temperatures. A short blast of cold can damage leaves and stunt growth, and extensive frost can kill your plants, whether it’s 40 degrees or 30. But you can provide protection overnight to give them their best chance.
Prepping your Tomatoes for Cold Snaps
Part of planning ahead for winter gardening in Florida includes planting your tomatoes where they can be easily covered. This may be in containers that can be moved, in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or even against a trellis or arbor that offers support for frost covers.
Another key factor when planning ahead is choosing the right tomato variety for winter growing. Tomatoes are either determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes only grow to a specified height — about 3 to 4 feet. Indeterminate varieties continue to grow and vine up to 6, 8, even 10 feet long. Covering a relatively short tomato plant for a cold snap is infinitely easier than a tall, vining variety. So, if you’re planning on growing your winter tomatoes outdoors rather than in a greenhouse or tunnel, you may want to stick to the determinate varieties.
Improving Resilience
Another way to help your tomatoes make it through cold spells is to ensure that it’s as healthy a plant as possible. A healthy tomato plant is far more likely to recover from any cold damage.
Watering
You may have noticed the specific weather pattern that often precedes a cold snap in Florida — a heavy rainfall. Winter and spring are some of our drier months in Central Florida, but we frequently get a good rainfall before a cold front hits. Take this as a clue from nature. Make sure to water your tomato plants deeply the day before the cold snap. Water keeps the individual cells of the foliage plump and strong, while moist soil stays warmer than dry soil.
In the case of tomatoes, it’s still a good idea to avoid getting the foliage wet, so water the ground, not the leaves.
Covering
There are a number of commercial products you can buy to cover your tomato plants during a cold snap, from lightweight fleece sheets to insulating blankets. In warmer areas of Florida, an old sheet or blanket will do. We’ve also repurposed a number of old beach towels. If you don’t have any leftover bedding, check your local thrift store and save yourself a small fortune.
Many is the time we’ve had an “all hands on deck” to dig through linen chests and closets to find old sheets. The whole family works together to cover the tomato plants, and it’s funny to see the old kids’ cartoon character sheets flapping in the breeze.
Sometimes it’s not hoarding, it’s being prepared.
All fabric covering should be dry before covering the plant. Drape the plant as completely as possible, from the top to the ground, ensuring the edge touches the ground and is well anchored to keep in the heat. Make sure that no branches will carry more weight than they can manage.
Don’t use plastic unless you can guarantee it will never touch the leaves. Frankly, it may not be worth using at all unless, of course, you have a polytunnel.
After Care
Helping your tomato plants recover from a cold snap is just as important as preparing for it. Make sure you remove any covering as soon as you can after the sunrise. If condensation has collected on the covers, you should remove them ASAP.
With our wacky winter temperature swings, it’s not impossible that the day after a cold dip will get up into the 80s and be blazing hot and dry. Check your weather forecast, and if it looks like you’re in for one of those days, you should go ahead and water your tomatoes again to help them recover from the stress.
Observe your tomato plants over the next few days. You may see some cold damage on the tips of the leaves. These can be trimmed off, but I normally leave them as they are.
If you have any casualties, you can remove any unripened fruits and place them on a warm kitchen counter. They should continue to ripen and be quite edible in a few days. (You can also do this before the cold snap hits if you have time.) Compost the remaining vegetation.
Your Own Resilience
Gardening isn’t just a production line, it’s a process. It’s a way of nurturing yourself by growing healthy food for yourself. It’s a way to connect with your land and interact with the (somewhat) natural world. Don’t be too hard on yourself if your winter tomatoes don’t make it. Winter gardening in Florida can be very rewarding, but there are risks.
Cultivate your own resilience by accepting gardening losses with a big dose of humor and by working for more diversity in your garden, rather than “results.”
And, after all, it’s time to sow your spring tomato starts. So, it won’t be long until you have a whole new collection of tomato plants to fuss over.
Southern gardens are plagued by insect pests and harsh growing conditions. And even in other parts of the country, gardeners are looking for more natural and sustainable ways to deter pests and disease without the use of synthetic and dangerous chemicals. Enter companion planting, and enter one of the more famous flowers used for this technique: French Marigold benefits the garden in numerous ways.
Companion Planting
If you’ve been gardening in the 21st century for more than a couple of weeks, you’ve heard of companion planting. In short, this is the practice of planting mutually beneficial plants together in one space to support each other. It can also be the planting of herbs and flowers near vegetable plants that will support those vegetables in some way.
Complicated Combinations
One of my chief complaints about the practice of companion planting is that it can involve complicated combinations of herbs, flowers, and edibles. While I would love to go into a deep dive on the science of each, that will have to wait for next summer during the down season.
The subject of what to plant together and what not to plant can become mind-boggling. Add in a rotation schedule and you’ve got all the makings of a migraine.
I’m lazy and I like my gardening simplified. I plant diversely and densely and let nature sort it out. I like to think that if I have the basic makings of biodiversity and support my soil microbiology, it will all come out the way nature intends in the long run — even if I don’t’ get what I want in the short run.
This drives my family crazy because the ones that like to cook (or feed the rabbits from the garden) end up wandering around the whole yard trying for find what they’re looking for. No, I don’t have endless patience for labels. And no, I don’t plant all the same plants in one area so they’re easy to find and harvest.
That’s intentional. I figure that if my stepson can’t find the Pak Choy, then the slugs will also have some trouble finding it. The same goes with beans and aphids and cabbage and cabbage loopers.
We’re supposed to be the species with the big brains and the ability to generalize, after all.
French marigold, Tagetes patula
Steady Go-To Companions
However, one thing I definitely do is to plant flowers (and sometimes herbs — I have trouble with herbs) within ALL of my vegetable garden beds. Flowers attract pollinators and predator insects that hunt down those cabbage loopers and aphids.
If I was to offer any recommendations to new gardeners in any zone, the first would be to plant seasonal annual flowers within EVERY single fruit and vegetable planting.
French Marigold Benefits
French marigold (Tagetes patula) has a reputation as the wunderkind of companion plants. Most of that reputation is well deserved and well documented.
Along with being available in a number of varieties for various applications, they’re also very attractive, with bushy foliage and bright, cheerful blooms. Best of all, they’re incredibly easy to grow and maintain.
I’ve grown French marigolds in both Central Ohio and Central Florida, and both times I’ve been impressed by their dogged resilience.
Pest Repellants
In short, French Marigold benefits include deterring root-knot nematodes, the bane of the Florida gardener’s existence. They’re also said to deter slugs and hornworms.
I can tell you from experience that they do NOT deter snails. Snails LOVE French marigolds. In fact, they make serve as an excellent trap crop for snails. I regularly find snails clinging to my French marigolds. I break the stem and carry it, snail and all, to my chicken yard.
Chickens LOVE snails. And they also like marigolds.
Tagetes patula from my garden
Methods to the Madness
It seems that French marigolds repel pests using different mechanisms, depending on the pest. Volatile chemicals in the foliage and flowers that give them their distinctive odor can sometimes confuse insects that seek their target plants through smell. Other insects may simply find the odor repulsive and unpleasant.
Another mechanism is through root exudates. Plants emit various elements through their roots in order to attract beneficial bacteria to trade nutrients. These elements include sugars, which the bacteria adore, and offer micronutrients and macronutrients in exchange with the plants.
And by no means the last method, some French marigold benefits include using the flower as a trap crop, as I mentioned above regarding snails. In fact, in the case of root-knot nematodes, there is some debate as to whether marigolds repel them through root exudates or simply attract them to themselves, thereby “trapping” them in their own roots.
White Fly Results
A 2019 study examined the theory that French marigolds will reduce whitefly populations in tomatoes. I’ve never found them on tomatoes, but my peppers always seem to attract a crowd.
A few experiments found that planting French marigolds alongside tomatoes reduced the whitefly population in the greenhouse. In this case, it was the volatile compound, limonene, these flowers produce that repelled the pests.
Root Knot Nematodes
Root-knot nematodes can completely destroy a once-thriving garden. And it seems that Southern gardens are particularly rife with this soil pest. I remember moving to Florida as an experienced temperate zone gardener in 1993 and being warned that they were public enemy number one.
The UF/IFAS website recommends French marigolds as a cover crop before planting. It posits that the action of alpha-terthienyl, a root exudate, inhibits the hatching of many nematode eggs. It also suggests planting them at least two months prior to your crop, and disking or hoeing them in is the most effective method. The site says interplanting isn’t particularly effective.
In my case, I grow year-round and successively. I don’t do cover crops on beds in production, so using marigolds this way wouldn’t work for me. Especially since I do no-till.
So, I simply interplant several marigold “crops” throughout the year and then crop and drop them on top of the soil at the beginning of each season. At the same time, I plant more marigolds throughout the beds.
I harvest seeds and plant them again later. I even sell them in my Etsy shop for very little profit so other gardeners can be sure they have the right type of marigolds.
As I vaguely recall, the action of nematode suppression in marigolds extends to about a meter, or three feet in diameter, so I make sure that I have at least one planted every yard or so, staggered throughout the beds.
French marigold in my garden
Medicinal Uses
Because of its rich components of chemical constituents, French marigolds have a number of traditional medicinal and cosmetic uses, many of which could translate well today.
A 2016 paper suggests that the blossoms, containing the flavonoids patuletin, quercetagetin, and quercetin, help protect against oxidative stress and offer anticancer properties when used in an infusion (i.e., tea).
I’m not a doctor and don’t intend to play one on the internet, so make sure you do all your due diligence before compounding your own herbal medicinals. Some are harmless, some are effective, and some can prove quite dangerous.
It’s important to remember that there are two different species of flowers we call “marigold,” with French marigold being “Tagetes” variety. There is also Calendula officinalis, also known as “Pot marigold,” which is used extensively in cosmetics.
Fortunately, while the common name is very similar, the two plants don’t resemble each other and have very different appearances.
Calendula officinalis , or “Pot Marigold”
Beauty and Function
Tagetes patula, French marigolds, offer a host of garden benefits. However, perhaps their most important quality is the beauty they add to the garden. Even if you’re immune to the superficial beauty of flowers, any dedicated gardener has to admit that the practical beauty of an increase in bee visitors is a spectacle to behold.
The rest of the country seems to be getting ready for winter. They’re unpacking their woolies and scarves and swooning over pumpkin spice lattes. But here in Florida, we’re still sweltering in the high 80s. And with Florida’s upside-down gardening schedule, you may be wondering what to plant in October.
Other Southern garden regions have the same dilemma. If you garden in New Orleans, Biloxi, or along coastal Texas, you know the gardening season has just really gotten underway.
That doesn’t mean it won’t get cold along the Gulf. It definitely will. But it usually doesn’t get cold enough to matter until late December or early January.
Last year threw us some curveballs. Temperatures dropped in Central Florida in late November, and it got REALLY cold in early December. Cold enough to matter. Cold enough to cover.
So, right now, in early October, the race is on to get roots in the ground and vegetables well established enough to survive any surprise cold snaps.
Knowing What to Plant in October
I’ve drawn data from several sources, especially the University of UF/IFAS website. But I’ve also been collecting data from other sources, including experienced gardeners and nurseries that include expanded selections far outside the limited one provided by UF.
There exists a plethora of exotic edibles from far-flung regions with the same climate and similar conditions. Why not take advantage of those resources?
Other regions that seem to mirror our unique gardening environment include parts of Southeast Asia, Central America, South America, and coastal areas in Australia.
I’ve drawn planting suggestions from gardeners and farmers in these regions as well, for those like me who like to experiment with new and interesting vegetable varieties.
North Florida
October begins the limits on planting out in North Florida, unless you have a greenhouse or a nurturing microclimate on the coast and a south-facing wall.
Cold-weather vegetables should do well, but be prepared to cover anything tender you planted out last month:
arugula
Asian cabbages
beets
broad beans
broccoli
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chicory
chives
collards
English peas
fennel
French tarragon
green onions
kale
kohlrabi
lettuce
mizuna
mustard onion
sets
parsley
radish
rapini
rutabaga
salsify
shallots
spinach
strawberry crowns
turnips
Central Florida
The weather is still fine in Central Florida, and still warm enough to sneak in a few warm-season crops like tomatoes, summer squash, and melons.
Thankfully, it also gets cool enough for those plants to begin fruiting, as well. It’s also cool enough to consider planting herbs, peas, and lettuces.
arugula
Asian cabbages
beans, bush
beans, climbing
beets
broad beans
broccoli
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chives
collards
cucumbers
daikon
English peas
fennel
French tarragon
green onions
horseradish crowns
kale
kohlrabi
lettuce
mizuna
mustard
onion sets
parsley
potatoes
pumpkins
radish
rapini
rosemary
salsify
shallots
snap peas
snow peas
spinach
strawberry crowns
summer squash
thyme
tomatoes
turnips
watermelons
South Florida
Summer vegetables are still a go-to for October gardening in South Florida. With few, if any, frosts, risk-taking gardeners can continue to plant out nearly anything their heart desires.
It’s still too warm for cold-loving plants like snap peas and some brassicas, but you can start these undercover to plant out next month if you like.
Asian cabbages
beans, climbing
beets
broccoli
Brussels sprouts
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chili peppers
chives
collards
corn
cucumbers
eggplant
English peas
fennel
green onions
kale
kohlrabi
leeks
lettuce
mizuna
mustard
onion sets
parsley
peppers
potatoes
radish
rapini
rosemary
sage
shallots
southern peas
spinach
strawberry crowns
summer squash
thyme
tomatoes
tropical spinach
turnips
What to Plant in Florida Month-by-Month
For planning ahead for the Florida growing schedule, please check out my Florida Gardening Planner on Amazon. It provides a month-by-month list of edibles to plant out for every month of the year for the three regions of Florida (Zones 8, 9, 10), plus handy planning and garden design tools to help you move step by step for a productive gardening year.
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