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How to Grow, Care For, and Propagate Crinum Lily

crinum lily plant

The Crinum Lily, renowned for its majestic beauty and resilience, is a captivating addition to any garden. This perennial plant boasts an array of attributes that make it both visually striking and a favorite among garden enthusiasts.

Crinum lilies, part of the Amaryllidaceae family, are characterized by their large, trumpet-shaped flowers that exude a sweet, sometimes overpowering fragrance. These blossoms come in a variety of colors, ranging from pure white to vibrant pinks and deep reds, often featuring subtle stripes or contrasting color patterns. The plant’s size is equally impressive, with some species reaching up to 5 feet in height.

The leaves of crinum lilies are another notable feature. They are long, strap-like, and can vary in color from bright green to a more muted, grayish-green hue. The leaves often form a dense rosette at the base of the plant, creating a lush and full appearance.

Crinum Lily Botanical Background

Crinum lilies are closely related to other members of the Amaryllidaceae family, such as amaryllis and narcissus. Their scientific classification places them in the genus ‘Crinum’, which comprises over 100 species.

Crinum lilies, with their diverse species, are indigenous to various parts of the world, including regions in the United States.

Native to Various Continents

Originally, crinum lilies were native to tropical and subtropical regions across Africa, Asia, and Australia. These continents host a wide array of Crinum species, each adapted to the unique environmental conditions of their habitats.

In Africa, for instance, crinums are often found in wet, marshy areas, while in Australia, they can adapt to drier, more arid conditions.

United States Native Species

Crinum Lily Plant

Significantly, there are species of crinum lilies that are native to the southeastern United States. Crinum americanum, commonly known as the American Crinum Lily or Swamp Lily, is a notable example.

This species is particularly adapted to the warm, humid climate of this region, flourishing in wet, marshy environments such as riverbanks and pond edges. Its white, fragrant flowers make it a popular choice for water gardens and naturalized areas.

You’ll find it flourishing in the Southeastern U.S. from North Carolina to Florida and across the Gulf Coast states as far west as Texas.

Adaptation and Naturalization

In addition to the native species, several Crinum species have been introduced and naturalized in parts of the United States, particularly in warmer regions.

For example, Crinum bulbispermum, originally from Africa, has naturalized in areas of the southern United States, especially in Texas. These naturalized species have adapted well to local conditions and are often found in cultivated gardens as well as in wild areas.

Cultivated Regions and Conditions

In terms of cultivation, crinum lilies are most successful in USDA zones 7 through 11. They thrive in full sun to partial shade and prefer well-draining soil. However, their resilience allows them to adapt to various soil types and environmental conditions, making them a versatile addition to many gardens and landscapes in these regions.

In gardens across the United States, Europe, and other temperate regions, crinum lilies are often used in borders, as focal points in flower beds, or grown as pond-side plants due to their affinity for moisture.

Their robust nature allows them to adapt to various garden settings, making them a versatile choice for landscapers and home gardeners alike.

Types of Crinum Lily

Here are just a few of the many captivating varieties of Crinum Lily. Each brings its own unique charm and character to a garden.

The diversity in their flowering colors, leaf shapes, and preferred growing conditions make Crinum lilies a versatile and attractive choice for gardeners and landscapers around the world

American Crinum Lily or Swamp Lily (Crinum americanum)

Alex Popovkin, Bahia, Brazil, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The American Crinum Lily, native to the southeastern United States, is renowned for its elegant, fragrant white flowers. It thrives in wet, marshy areas, often found along riverbanks and pond edges.

This species typically blooms in the summer and is recognized for its long, strap-like leaves that form a lush rosette.

Giant Crinum Lily (Crinum asiaticum)

Crinum asiaticum, commonly known as the Giant Crinum Lily, is a large and robust plant. Native to tropical Asian regions, it features large clusters of white, fragrant flowers that sit atop tall stalks.

The plant can reach up to 6 feet in height, making it a striking specimen in any garden setting. It is especially popular in warmer climates and is known for its broad, glossy leaves.

Milk-and-Wine Lily (Crinum bulbispermum)

Crinum bulbispermum

Originally from Africa, the Milk-and-Wine Lily has naturalized in parts of the southern United States. Its name comes from the distinctive coloring of its flowers – white petals with striking red or burgundy stripes.

This hardy plant can tolerate a range of conditions, from wet to dry soils, and is often found in cultivated gardens and natural areas.

Broad-Leaved Crinum (Crinum latifolium)

Kuzad, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Crinum latifolium, or Broad-Leaved Crinum, is native to Southeast Asia. It’s known for its wide, dark green leaves and large clusters of pink or white flowers.

This species is often used in traditional medicine in its native regions and is also a popular ornamental plant due to its attractive foliage and flowers.

Moore’s Crinum Lily (Crinum moorei)

Erik Taanman, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Native to South Africa, Moore’s Crinum is admired for its large, fragrant pink flowers. This species prefers shadier conditions compared to other crinums, making it suitable for planting under trees or in areas with partial sunlight.

It’s a popular choice for adding a splash of color to woodland gardens.

Powell’s Crinum Lily (Crinum x powellii)

Acabashi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

This hybrid crinum, a cross between Crinum bulbispermum and Crinum moorei, is well-loved for its robust nature and beautiful blooms. Powell’s Crinum Lily produces clusters of soft pink or white flowers and is particularly hardy, able to withstand colder temperatures better than many other crinum species.

It’s an excellent choice for a perennial border or as a statement plant in large gardens.

How To Care For Crinum Lilies

Crinum lilies, with their striking beauty and resilience, are a splendid addition to many gardens. To ensure these plants thrive and produce their large, fragrant blooms, it’s essential to understand the specifics of their care.

Where to Plant Crinum Lilies

The ideal location for planting crinum lilies is a spot where they can receive ample sunlight while being protected from harsh, direct afternoon sun in hotter climates.

These plants flourish in well-draining soil and can tolerate a variety of soil types, though they prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH.

Crinum lilies do well in both garden beds and large containers, provided there’s enough space for their roots to spread.

When to Plant Crinum Lilies

The best time to plant crinum lilies is in the spring, after the threat of frost has passed. This allows the plant ample time to establish itself before the colder months.

When planting, ensure the bulbs are placed deep enough, with the top of the bulb just below the soil surface.

Spacing is also crucial – allow about 18-24 inches between each bulb to give each plant room to grow.

Crinum Lily Care Tips

From selecting the right planting location to regular maintenance, every aspect plays an important role in adding these beauties to your landscape.

Light

Crinum lilies thrive in full sun to partial shade. They need at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily to bloom profusely. In regions with intense sun, providing some afternoon shade can prevent leaf scorch.

Soil

While crinum lilies are adaptable to various soil types, they perform best in rich, well-drained soil. If the soil is heavy or clayey, incorporating organic matter such as compost can improve drainage and fertility.

Water

Regular watering is essential, especially during the growing season. The soil should be kept moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering or poor drainage can lead to bulb rot.

Once established, crinum lilies are quite drought-tolerant, though consistent moisture will yield the best flowering results.

Temperature

Crinum lilies enjoy warm temperatures and are most active in growth during the summer months. They can tolerate brief periods of cooler weather but are not frost-hardy.

In Zones 6 and colder, it may be best to lift the bulbs before the first frost to overwinter indoors.

Humidity

These plants typically do well in average garden humidity levels. In very dry climates, occasional misting can help maintain adequate humidity, though it’s not usually necessary.

Fertilizer

Feeding crinum lilies with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring can encourage vigorous growth and abundant flowering. A layer of compost can also improve bloom performance.

Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to more foliage at the expense of flowering.

Pruning

Pruning isn’t a significant requirement for crinum lilies. However, removing spent flowers and yellowing leaves can improve the plant’s appearance and health.

After flowering, it’s best to leave the foliage intact as it helps in photosynthesis, strengthening the bulb for the next season.

Caring for crinum lilies involves a blend of the right environmental conditions and attentive maintenance.

By providing these elegant plants with what they need, gardeners can enjoy their spectacular blooms and lush foliage for many years.

Overwintering Crinum Lilies

In regions where the climate turns cold and frosty, overwintering crinum lilies becomes an essential aspect of their care.

These plants, native to warmer climates, need special attention as temperatures drop. Gardeners in colder zones can still enjoy the beauty of crinum lilies by employing effective overwintering techniques, ensuring their survival through the winter months and vibrant regrowth in spring.

Potting and Repotting Crinum Lilies in Colder Climates

For gardeners in areas with harsh winters, growing crinum lilies in pots is a practical solution. This allows for the mobility of the plants, making it easier to move them indoors or to a sheltered location when the cold sets in.

When selecting a pot, ensure it is large enough to accommodate the bulb and allow for root growth, with ample drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

Potting-Up Crinum Lily

In late fall, before the first frost, potted crinum lilies should be moved to a cool, dry place such as a garage or basement where temperatures remain above freezing but do not exceed 50°F (10°C).

This period of dormancy is crucial for the health of the plant. During this time, watering should be reduced significantly, only enough to keep the soil from completely drying out.

As spring approaches and the threat of frost diminishes, gradually reintroduce the crinum lilies to outdoor conditions.

This process, known as hardening off, involves exposing the plants to the outdoors for a few hours each day, progressively increasing the time they spend outside over a week or two. This helps the plants acclimate to the changing environment, reducing the risk of shock from sudden temperature changes.

Lifting Crinum Lily Bulbs

For crinum lilies planted in the ground in colder climates, lifting the bulbs before the first frost and storing them in a cool, dry place over the winter is an effective strategy.

The bulbs should be gently dug up, cleaned of soil, and allowed to air dry for a few days. Once dry, store them in a breathable container, like a mesh bag or a box with peat moss, in a cool, dark place until it’s time to replant them in the spring.

By potting and appropriately caring for crinum lilies during the colder months, gardeners in virtually any climate can enjoy the splendor of these beautiful plants year after year. The key is to provide a period of dormancy and protect the bulbs from the harsh winter conditions.

Common Problems with Crinum Lilies

Crinum lilies, known for their robust nature and striking appearance, are generally low-maintenance plants. However, like all garden plants, they can occasionally face challenges.

Understanding and promptly addressing common problems such as pests, diseases, and other issues is key to maintaining the health and beauty of these plants.

Pests

While crinum lilies are not heavily prone to pest infestations, they can sometimes be affected by common garden pests.

Aphids, spider mites, and mealybugs are among the pests that may be attracted to these plants. These small insects can usually be found on the undersides of leaves or at the base of the plant. They feed on the sap, weakening the plant over time.

Regular inspection and prompt treatment with an insecticidal soap can effectively control these pests with diligent application.

Diseases

Crinum lilies can be susceptible to a few diseases, especially in conditions of poor air circulation or excessive moisture.

Root rot is a common issue, often caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil. Signs of root rot include yellowing leaves and a general decline in plant health. Ensuring proper soil drainage and avoiding overwatering are key preventive measures.

Fungal infections like leaf spot can also occur, usually manifesting as discolored spots on the leaves. These can be treated with organic fungicides and by removing affected foliage.

How To Get Crinum Lilies To Bloom

To encourage blooming in crinum lilies, several factors should be considered. Firstly, these plants need plenty of sunlight – at least 4-6 hours of direct sun per day. If they are planted in too much shade, their blooming may be sparse.

Nutrient availability is also crucial. Applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer during the growing season can provide the necessary nutrients for blooming. Additionally, avoiding over-fertilization is important, as too much nitrogen can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flowers.

Finally, allowing the plants to establish themselves without disturbance can also enhance blooming. Mature crinum lilies, well-settled in their location, often produce the most spectacular blooms.

Propagating Crinum Lilies

Propagating crinum lilies is a rewarding process that allows gardeners to expand their collection and share these beautiful plants with others.

One of the most effective methods of propagation for crinum lilies is through bulbils. Bulbils are small bulbs that form below the flowers on the stem.

The process is straightforward and can be accomplished with a few simple steps.

Propagate Crinum Lily from Bulbils

The first step is to observe the flower stems of your crinum lilies. These can grow from 3 to 6 feet tall. After flowering, bulbils will start to form at the top of these stems.

As they mature, they will grow in size and develop a firmer, more bulb-like structure. As they mature, the stem bends or flops over due to the weight of the growing bulbils, bringing them closer to the ground.

This is where they like to root. If you’re wondering if Crinum Lilies spread, this is how they do exactly that. The stems are long enough to fall just near the mother plant.

In their natural growth process, these bulbils will eventually root where they fall, often at the base of the parent plant or in surrounding soil. This natural rooting process is a unique trait of crinum lilies, allowing for easy propagation.

To propagate Crinum Lily, or if you wish to share them, you can collect the bulbils once they have matured. Mature bulbils are typically firm and have developed a dry, papery outer layer.

Storing Crinum Lily Bulbils

I store Crinum Lily bulbils in damp sphagnum moss or coconut coir in a large plant container. This large pot goes into the greenhouse where the lighting is low, the humidity high, and the temperature warmer in the winter.

Planting the Bulbils

I generally allow the bulbils to sprout before planting, however, you can plant them at any time when the weather remains warm.

To plant them in containers, choose a well-draining soil mix for planting the collected bulbils. Plant them in pots with the top of the bulbil just below the soil surface. If they’ve already sprouted, ensure that the sprout can reach the light above the surface easily.

When planting in the ground, space them at least 12″ to 18″ apart to provide enough room for growth.

Initial Care and Growth

Water the newly planted bulbils moderately, ensuring the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Place them in a location where they receive bright, indirect light.

Transplanting

If you wish to plant your container crinums into the garden, you can do so once they have established a robust root system and the weather is conducive.

In this way, you can be sure they’re viable before transplanting them to a more permanent location in your garden or landscape. This is typically done in the spring or early summer.

Frequently Asked Questions About Crinum Lilies

This section offers quick and concise answers to some common questions about the care and cultivation of Crinum Lilies, aimed at helping gardeners of all levels.

Do hummingbirds like crinum lilies?

Absolutely! Crinum lilies are attractive to a variety of hummingbirds. Their large, trumpet-shaped flowers, particularly those with bright colors, are excellent sources of nectar. Species like the Ruby-throated Hummingbird and the Black-chinned Hummingbird, common in areas where crinum lilies grow, are often drawn to these vibrant blooms.

What pollinator insects like crinum lily?

Crinum lilies attract a range of pollinator insects, notably including various species of bees and butterflies. Bees such as the European honeybee (Apis mellifera) and native bee species frequently visit these flowers. Butterflies, including the Monarch (Danaus plexippus) and Swallowtails (Papilio spp.), are also drawn to crinum lilies for their nectar. These pollinators play a crucial role in the reproductive cycle of the plants.

Are Crinum lilies perennials?

Yes, Crinum lilies are perennials. They are known for their long-lasting nature, coming back year after year, and often increase in size and bloom capacity with each growing season.

How long do Crinum lilies live?

Crinum lilies can live for many years, often several decades, when provided with the right growing conditions. They are long-lived perennials that grow larger and more prolific with age.

How long does it take for a crinum lily to bloom?

A crinum lily typically takes two to three years to bloom when grown from a bulb. However, the time to first bloom can vary depending on factors like the age of the bulb at planting and the growing conditions. Once established, crinum lilies bloom annually, usually in the summer.

How often do crinum lilies bloom?

Crinum lilies typically bloom from spring to fall, usually in response to rainfall or adequate irrigation.

Do crinum lilies like sun or shade?

Crinum lilies prefer full sun to partial shade. They thrive in areas where they receive at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. While they can tolerate some shade, too much shade can reduce flowering. In extremely hot climates, providing some afternoon shade can be beneficial.

How deep do you plant a crinum bulb?

A crinum bulb should be planted so that the top of the bulb is just below the soil surface, usually about 3 to 4 inches deep. It’s important to ensure the bulb is planted at the correct depth to promote healthy growth and flowering.

Do crinum lilies spread?

Yes, crinum lilies can spread over time. They produce offsets or “pups” from the main bulb, which can be separated and replanted to grow new plants. They also produce bulbils at the tops of flower stems, which fall over, usually within a few feet of the parent plant. These root nearby and grow into new Crinum Lily plants.

Should I cut back Crinum Lily?

Yes, you can cut back crinum lilies, especially to remove spent flower stalks and yellowing or damaged leaves. This helps maintain the plant’s appearance and directs energy back to the bulb. However, it’s important to leave healthy foliage intact, as it continues to photosynthesize and strengthen the bulb.

Are crinum lilies hardy?

Crinum lilies are hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11. They can withstand temperatures down to about 0°F (-18°C) for short periods. However, prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures can be harmful. In colder zones, they may require mulching or overwintering indoors to protect the bulbs from harsh winter conditions.

How poisonous are crinum lilies?

Crinum lilies are considered moderately poisonous. All parts of the plant contain alkaloids that can be toxic if ingested, with symptoms ranging from nausea and vomiting to more severe reactions. It’s important to handle these plants with care and keep them away from pets and children who might ingest them.

Growing and Propagating Crinum Lily

Crinum lilies are a fascinating and diverse group of plants, offering a wealth of beauty and interest to gardeners and nature enthusiasts alike. From their stunning, fragrant blooms to their adaptability across various climates, these perennials add a unique charm to any garden setting.

While they require some basic care and attention, their resilience and ease of care make them a rewarding choice for both novice and experienced gardeners.

By understanding their needs and common issues, you can enjoy the magnificent presence of Crinum lilies in your garden for many years to come.

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The 12 Best Flowering Bushes for Florida

Flowering bushes for the south

Adding flowering bushes to your Florida garden can save you so much time and keep you out of the heat. They offer gardeners year after year of color and texture with no yearly bed prep or planting out. They’re landscaping workhorses that deliver years of satisfaction. The best flowering bushes for Florida can create structure and tone and set the whole mood for your garden with a lot less hard work in the heat and humidity.

So, which are the best flowering bushes for Florida? Some good doers for our hot and humid climate include hardy and tropical hibiscus. Other great flowering perennials for Florida are Arabian jasmine, camellias, azaleas, plumbago, tibouchina, duranta, firebush, bougainvillea, and gardenias.

Which Are the Best Flowering Bushes for Florida?

Add drama and structure by using flowering bushes in your Southern garden. Most offer year-round color and evergreen foliage while attracting wildlife to your yard.

Best of all, you’ll only need to plant them once. After they’re established, you can rely on them for years to come with only the occasional feeding and pruning.

Here are 12 of our very favorites:

1. Arabian Jasmine (Jasminum sambac)

Arabian jasmine is one of the best flowering bushes for Florida
Tubifex [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac) delivers delicate and delicious-smelling white flowers. They’re also evergreen, so your garden will never look bare and scrubby in the colder months.

Even better, they’re fine with a little shade, though you may not get as many blooms. They can spread with a few viney offshoots (perfect for cuttings), but you can also keep them pruned for container gardening.

On the whole, they’re a large, showy bush that requires very little maintenance.

Jasminum sambac belongs to the Oleaceae family and is commonly referred to as Sambac Jasmine, Jasmine Sambac, or simply Arabian Jasmine. It is widely cultivated for its intoxicating scent and ornamental value.

Arabian Jasmine Description

Arabian Jasmine has glossy, dark green leaves with an oval to lanceolate shape. The leaves grow in opposite pairs along the stems and provide an attractive backdrop to its white flowers.

The hallmark of Arabian Jasmine is its exquisite and highly fragrant flowers. The blooms are small and star-shaped, with five or more petals, and they are pure white in color. The intoxicating scent of the flowers fills the air, especially during the evening.

Arabian Jasmine is a vining shrub with a semi-climbing growth habit. It can reach a mature height of 6 to 10 feet or more, depending on the support structure it grows on. It is often trained to climb trellises, fences, or walls, but it can also be pruned into a more compact form.

Arabian Jasmine Optimal Growing Conditions

Arabian Jasmine is believed to have originated in South Asia, specifically in India or the southeastern parts of Asia.

It thrives in warm and humid climates, making it well-suited for Florida’s tropical and subtropical conditions.

For optimal growth and flowering, Arabian Jasmine prefers full sun to partial shade. The plant prefers well-draining soil with good fertility and benefits from regular watering, especially during dry spells.

Arabian Jasmine flourishes in Florida’s hardiness zones 9 to 11. It is not frost-tolerant and requires protection during cold spells or freezing temperatures.

Arabian Jasmine produces its fragrant white flowers throughout the year in warm climates, with peak flowering usually occurring in spring and summer. The sweet scent of the flowers attracts bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, contributing to the garden’s biodiversity.

2. Azalea (Rhododendron indicum)

Azalea -- a classic flowering bush for Florida, especiall North Florida

When you think of gardening in the South, you think of azaleas. These big blousy bushes set blooms in such an explosion of color that you can’t help but be tempted. And the range of colors is just as exciting, with whites, creams, pinks, reds, purples, and even oranges. Their evergreen foliage provides year-round structure

Most gardeners think it’s a must if you’re growing in warmer zones. However, if you’re gardening in Zones 10 and 11, you may need to pass.

Evergreen azaleas, also known as Rhododendron indicum, are often grown for their colorful and abundant blooms. These plants belong to the Ericaceae family and are commonly referred to as Azaleas.

Azalea Description

Azaleas feature small to medium-sized leaves with an elliptical or ovate shape. The leaves are often evergreen, but some deciduous varieties shed their leaves in the fall. The foliage can be glossy or matte, and its color ranges from dark green to bronze or even variegated patterns.

The highlight of azaleas is undoubtedly their profusion of showy flowers. You’ll find azaleas in a wide range of colors, including shades of white, pink, red, purple, and even bi-color combinations. The flowers are usually funnel-shaped or tubular.

Some Azaleas are compact and low-growing, while others can become large, upright shrubs. The mature size of Azaleas varies widely, with heights ranging from 1 to 10 feet and spreads of 1.5 to 10 feet.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Azaleas

Azaleas are native to Japan, and they thrive in the cool, moist forests and mountains of their native habitat.

Azaleas prefer partial shade to filtered sunlight. They thrive in well-draining, acidic soil with high organic matter.

Azaleas are well-suited for Florida’s climate and are typically grown in hardiness zones 8 to 10. They can tolerate mild winter temperatures but may need protection from freezing temperatures in some regions.

Generally, Azaleas bloom in spring, and the vibrant flowers attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, contributing to the garden’s ecological diversity.

3. Blue Porterweed

This shade-tolerant flowering bush is a favorite of bees and butterflies and gives your garden a tousled, cottage feel. In 9B and below, it winters over well without any protection at all. It may even do well in Zones above if planted in a protected spot.

This is another one of those special plants that tolerate – and bloom well – in dappled shade. And best of all, it doesn’t sprawl out of control. While you can prune it, Nettle-leaf Porterweed rarely grows more than 4 feet high and 3 feet white. You may want to prune it back hard in the spring to encourage denser growth.

Blue Porterweed isn’t terribly thirsty, but it does require water once a week. And it may need more during hot dry spells and will let you know when it needs a drink in the summer.

4. Camellias (Camellia japonica)

Many cultivars of Camellias grow well in Florida

Camellias are considered a go-to for best flowering bushes for Florida. They’ve been a favorite since they were imported from China over 200 years ago. That may be because they bloom in the fall and winter, when most other flowering bushes have settled down for the year.

Their evergreen foliage provides privacy screens, and they do well in shady areas. Finding good flowering plants for shade is a real task in the South, but camellias have your back on this one. They bloom better in dappled shady spots than in sunny areas.

Plant camellias in acidic soil and give them three years to get established. Fertilizer with plant food for acid-loving flowering shrubs right after they’re done blooming.

Make sure you choose the best type for your zone. Japonica thrives in warmer regions, while sasanqua flourishes further north, which makes it one of the better flowering bushes for Zone 8.

Camellia japonica is one of the best flowering bushes for Florida

Camellia japonica Description

Camellias have lustrous, dark green leaves with a glossy texture. But the hallmark of Camellias is their exquisitely formed flowers. The blooms come in various colors, including shades of white, pink, red, and even bi-color combinations. The flowers are often large, measuring 2 to 5 inches in diameter, with a waxy texture.

Camellia japonica has a dense, compact growth habit with a rounded or pyramidal shape. The plant can reach a mature height of 6 to 12 feet and a spread of 6 to 10 feet, depending on the specific variety and growing conditions, although dwarf cultivars are also available.

Camellias Optimal Growing Conditions

Camellia japonica is native to Japan, and they in the cool, moist forests and mountains of its native habitat. For optimal growth and flowering, Camellias prefer partial shade to filtered sunlight. They prefer well-draining, acidic soil that is rich in organic matter.

Camellia japonica is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 7 to 9. It can tolerate mild winter temperatures but may need protection from freezing temperatures.

Camellia japonica typically blooms from late fall to early spring, providing a much-needed burst of color during the cooler months. The flowers are a valuable source of nectar for early-season pollinators, including bees.

5. Firebush

Firebush, or Hamelia patens, is a magnet for bees and butterflies and is perfect for Zones 8 to 11. This semi-woody perennial produces bright red and orange flowers, although colors differ between cultivars. That includes its foliage, which can range from deep green to yellow.

This beauty loves sun, though it can manage a little shade. Best of all, it’s pretty salt-tolerant, so it’s a good doer in coastal gardens like mine.

This Florida native delivers blooms year-round and can get up to 10 feet tall. Or, you can keep it in a pot to keep it small or choose a dwarf variety.

Firebush Description

The highlight of the Firebush is undoubtedly its striking tubular flowers, which are a vibrant red-orange color. The flowers are small and arranged in dense clusters, creating a fiery display of color that is highly attractive to pollinators, especially hummingbirds and butterflies.

Firebush typically forms a multi-stemmed, semi-woody shrub with an upright growth habit. It can reach a mature height of 6 to 12 feet and a spread of 4 to 8 feet.

The plant’s moderate size and dense foliage make it an excellent choice for hedges and screens.

Firebush is a native flowering bush for Florida

Optimal Growing Conditions for Firebush

Firebush is native to various regions in the Americas, including Florida, Mexico, and parts of Central and South America. It thrives in open woodlands, hammocks, and disturbed areas, demonstrating its adaptability to different habitats.

Firebush prefers full sun exposure and warm and humid conditions. The plant is reasonably tolerant of various soil types, but it prefers well-draining soil with moderate fertility. Once established, it displays good drought tolerance.

Firebush is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 9 to 11. It can withstand occasional light frost but generally thrives in frost-free regions, making it one of the better flowering bushes for Zone 9.

The tubular flowers are rich in nectar, making them highly attractive to pollinators, including hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. Firebush is one of the flowering perennials for Florida that is a must-have for any butterfly garden.

Being native to various regions in the Americas, Firebush is well-adapted to Florida’s climate and soil conditions, making it a low-maintenance and sustainable choice for landscaping.

6. Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides)

Some people think that the perfume of gardenias is just too cloying, but there’s nothing like catching that sweet aroma on the top of the breeze. They’re also prodigious bloomers, perfect for tropical and subtropical gardens.

They’re a bit fussy, so I grow mine in pots so I can move them during the year to partially shady spots in the summer. They also like a lot of water, and I find that easier to accomplish in a container.

The luxurious-looking flowers come in a range of white, from stark to cream to nearly yellow, depending on the cultivar. They prefer acidic soil but aren’t too fussy about its density as long as you ensure good drainage.

Gardenia Description

Gardenias have glossy, dark green leaves with an elliptical to ovate shape. And the deep green foliage forms an attractive backdrop for the pristine white flowers, creating a striking contrast.

Gardenia blossoms are typically pure white, with a waxy texture and a beautiful rose-like shape. Its classic beauty makes it one of the most popular flowering plants for Florida.

Gardenias are evergreen shrubs with a bushy growth habit. They can reach a mature height of 3 to 6 feet and a spread of 2 to 4 feet, though you’ll also find dwarf cultivars.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Gardenias

Gardenia jasminoides is native to China and other regions in Asia. In its native habitat, it grows in forests and woodlands, where it enjoys partial shade and a humid environment.

Gardenias prefer partial shade to filtered sunlight. They thrive in well-draining, acidic soil that is rich in organic matter.

Gardenias are well-suited for Florida’s climate and thrive in hardiness zones 8 to 11. They are well-adapted to the state’s warm temperatures and can withstand occasional light frost.

Gardenias typically bloom from late spring through summer, producing a profusion of fragrant white flowers.

Since Gardenias thrive in partial shade, they’re a boon to Florida gardeners with awkward shady spots in their landscape.  

7. Golden Dew Drop (Duranta erecta)

Mokkie [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Duranta, or Golden Dew Drop (Duranta erecta), is another favorite of pollinators and it adds great flowering drama in any Southern Garden. The weeping branches become covered in tiny purple flowers, which then become bright golden berries – hence the name.

Best of all, it blooms all year round in Zones 9 to 11.

It can get shaggy and overwhelming, but if you’re competent with pruning shears, you can keep it from growing to its max height of 18 feet. I’ve trimmed mine to grow into trees, with hanging branches covered in flowers, because I’m just too impatient for wisteria.

Caveat: The berries on Golden Dew Drop are poisonous to humans, so make sure you keep children from eating them. Luckily, they don’t drop easily, so they’re easy to trim and dispose of regularly.

Golden Dew Drop Description

The Golden Dew Drop’s foliage consists of glossy, elliptic leaves that grow opposite each other along the stems. The foliage is evergreen, providing winter garden interest.

Duranta produces small, tubular flowers that form in pendulous clusters of purple, blue, or white. These flowers are highly attractive to pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. This is one of the most overlooked flowering perennials for Florida.

This flowering bush has a compact and bushy growth habit, typically reaching a mature height of 6 to 12 feet and a spread of 3 to 6 feet.

the best flowering bushes for Florida feed and nurture wildlife

Optimal Growing Conditions for Golden Dew Drop

Golden Dew Drop is native to tropical regions of the Americas, including parts of Florida, Mexico, and the Caribbean. It thrives in warm and humid climates.

Golden Dew Drop prefers full sun exposure, receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. It is reasonably adaptable to different soil types, but well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is ideal.

Once established, the plant exhibits good tolerance to drought conditions, making it suitable for Florida’s climate.

Duranta thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11, which align perfectly with Florida’s tropical to subtropical climate. It can withstand occasional frosts, further contributing to its suitability for Florida landscaping.

Golden Dew Drop typically blooms from late spring to fall, offering an extended flowering season that attracts an array of pollinators. Its nectar-rich flowers draw bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Additionally, some species of Lepidoptera use it as a host plant for their larvae, supporting the life cycle of these insects.

8. Hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos)

Image CC by 2.0 SA via Flickr

Hibiscus gives your landscape a tropical feel, but some hardy types will do well up to Zone 4. In the South, we can usually grow both hardy and tropical hibiscus, which offers so much beauty for little effort.

Hardy hibiscus is a slower-growing flowering bush, but they’re easy to care for. They’re one of the most popular flowering perennials for Florida, because they thrive in all corners of the state.

They like full sun and plenty of moisture and mulch. However, you won’t have to prune them as frequently as the tropical type. Best of all, hummingbirds love them.

Hardy Hibiscus Description

Hardy Hibiscus has heart-shaped leaves with a serrated edge and a deep green color. The leaves are usually quite large, ranging from 4 to 8 inches in length.

Hardy Hibiscus offers striking flowers, which are among the largest of any hardy perennial. The blossoms can reach up to 8 inches in diameter and come in a variety of colors, including shades of white, pink, red, and even bi-color combinations. These eye-catching flowers have prominent stamens and attract pollinators with their abundant nectar.

Hardy Hibiscus has a bushy growth habit, reaching a mature height of 4 to 7 feet and a spread of 3 to 6 feet, depending on the specific cultivar and growing conditions.

In temperate climates, the plant dies back to the ground in winter and regrows from the roots each spring.

Choose native varieties when looking for flowering bushes for Florida gardens

Optimal Growing Conditions for Hardy Hibiscus

Hardy Hibiscus is native to North America and is commonly found in wetlands, marshes, and along riverbanks. It thrives in areas with adequate moisture and is well-adapted to various soil conditions.

For optimal growth and abundant flowering, Hardy Hibiscus prefers full sun exposure. It tolerates a wide range of soil types, including clay and loam, as long as the soil is well-draining.

Although it is naturally found in wetland habitats, it can tolerate periods of drought once established.

Hardy Hibiscus is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 4 to 9. It is a tough and resilient plant that can withstand colder temperatures.

Florida Native Hardy Hibiscus

There are several varieties that are native to Florida that can be grown in Zones 8-11.

Scarlet Mallow (Hibiscus coccineus)

One Florida native species of hardy hibiscus is the Scarlet Mallow or Hibiscus coccineus. This native hibiscus is well-adapted to Florida’s wetland habitats and can be found in marshes, swamps, and along riverbanks. It is also commonly known as the Swamp Rose Mallow or Crimson-eyed Rose Mallow.

Hibiscus coccineus is known for its striking red flowers, which have a deep crimson eye in the center. The flowers are large and showy, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. The plant’s foliage is also appealing, with deeply lobed, maple-like leaves.

As a native species, Swamp Rose Mallow is an excellent choice for Florida landscaping, as it is well-suited to the state’s climate and soil conditions. It can thrive in both sunny and partially shaded areas, and it can tolerate periods of standing water, making it an ideal choice for rain gardens and other wetland landscaping projects.

Additionally, native flowering plants for Florida provide valuable habitat and food for local wildlife, further enhancing their ecological value in the garden.

Salt Marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica)

Salt Marsh Mallow is another native hibiscus species found in Florida. It is commonly referred to as Seashore Mallow or Virginia Saltmarsh Mallow. This hibiscus species is well-adapted to coastal habitats, including salt marshes, coastal dunes, and brackish wetlands, making it suitable for areas near the coast.

Salt Marsh Mallow features heart-shaped, green leaves with serrated edges. The leaves are soft and velvety to the touch. The flowers are typically pale pink to lavender in color and have five petals arranged in a funnel shape. The blooms are attractive to pollinators like bees and butterflies.

If you’re looking for pink flowering bushes in Florida, Salt Marsh Mallow is a sustainable choice. This herbaceous perennial plant has an upright growth habit. It can reach a height of 3 to 6 feet. As the name suggests, it thrives in salt marshes and other coastal areas where it can tolerate brackish water and saline soil conditions.

peganum from Henfield, England, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Salt Marsh Mallow typically grows in hardiness zones 8 to 11.  Salt Marsh Mallow is ideal for landscapes near the coast, where it can thrive in saline conditions and contribute to coastal ecosystem restoration projects. The dense growth of Salt Marsh Mallow helps stabilize sandy soils, offering some erosion control benefits in vulnerable areas as well as contributing to the preservation of local biodiversity.

9. Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.)

Bougainvillea captivates with its brilliant display of colors. This plant is commonly referred to as Paper Flower, Bougie, or simply Bougainvillea.

Bougainvillea features ovate to heart-shaped leaves with a smooth texture and a glossy appearance. The leaves are typically small and green, acting as a beautiful backdrop to the striking floral bracts that surround the inconspicuous flowers.

The true flowers are actually small and white, while the colorful bracts steal the show. What makes Bougainvillea truly exceptional are the vibrant papery bracts, which can appear in a stunning array of colors, including magenta, purple, red, pink, orange, and white.

Bougainvillea is a vigorous and fast-growing shrubby vine that can climb or trail, depending on its support structure. It can reach a mature height of 15 to 30 feet or more, and its spread can vary widely based on the cultivar and growing conditions. Some varieties can be pruned and trained as a shrub or small tree.

Bougainvillea are some of the easiest flowering bushes for Florida

Optimal Growing Conditions for Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea originates from South America, specifically the regions of Brazil, Peru, and Argentina. It thrives in warm and tropical climates, which makes it well-suited for Florida’s subtropical environment.

Bougainvillea is a sun-loving plant that thrives in hot and humid conditions. The plant is relatively drought-tolerant once established, but regular watering is necessary to promote consistent flowering. Well-draining soil is essential to prevent waterlogged conditions.

Bougainvillea is well-suited for Florida’s climate and is typically grown in hardiness zones 9 to 11. It is a tropical plant that can withstand occasional light frost.

Bougainvillea is a profuse bloomer, with its colorful bracts persisting for an extended period from spring to fall. The striking bracts are rich in nectar, attracting bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to the garden.

Once established, Bougainvillea exhibits good drought tolerance, making it suitable for sustainable Florida-friendly landscape designs.

10. Plumbago (Plumbago auriculata)

Plumbago is one of the easy care flowering plants for Florida
Rl [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Although it sounds like a Victorian disease of the aged, Plumbago auriculata is a real doer in the garden if you take time to establish it properly.

This flowering bush explodes after the first year and is covered with blue flowers that resemble phlox. Bees seem to adore it, so it’s worth adding to any Southern pollinator garden.

You can plant it out at any time of year in Zone 9 and higher, and it will flower all year round. Note that it can be a pretty hungry plant, though it seems pretty tolerant of drought. Feed it well the first year, and it will grow at a disconcerting rate of speed. Forget to feed it, and you’ll get a yellow and sad-looking scrubby bush.

You can also find a white variety (alba) that to me seems less vigorous than the blue types. I’ve struggled to grow the white type from cuttings, while the blue takes pretty easily.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Cape Plumbago

Cape Plumbago originates from South Africa, specifically the Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, and Mpumalanga provinces. In its native habitat, it thrives in a variety of environments, from coastal dunes to mountain slopes, displaying its adaptability.

Plumbago auriculata prefers full sun exposure for the best flowering performance, but it can also tolerate partial shade. It thrives in well-draining soil that remains consistently moist but not waterlogged. Once established, it displays moderate drought tolerance.

Cape Plumbago is well-suited for Florida’s climate and thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11. Its ability to endure mild cold spells while thriving in tropical to subtropical climates makes it an excellent landscaping choice for Florida.

Plumbago blooms from late spring through fall, providing an extended flowering period. The nectar-rich flowers are highly attractive to butterflies, which will visit the plant frequently, supporting the local population.

11. Princess Flower (Tibouchina urvilleana)

Tubifex [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Technically known as Tibouchina urvillena, Princess Flower is a gorgeous tropical flowering bush that grows well in Zones 9 to 11. Although it may reach tree-like stature, most Southern gardeners keep it trimmed to bush size.

It will die back if exposed to frost, but in lower zones, you can cover it on nights it gets below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. And it is also suitable for containers for overwintering indoors in cooler climes.

It also doesn’t like to sit in the wind, so plant it in a protected corner.

Princess Flower can be thirsty, but it’s worth the effort. They’re also shade-tolerant, and I’ve found that mine does poorly in the scalding, Zone 10 summer sun, so I give it partial shade.

It’s a tropical plant, so it’s used to rich soil; you’ll need to feed it regularly during the growing season. I feed mine a high nitrogen fertilizer once all risk of frost is gone and then switch to a high-potassium formula when it warms enough to flower.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Tibouchina

Princess Flower originates from Brazil, where it is native to the Atlantic Rainforest region. It thrives in the warm, humid climates of its native habitat. It’s one of the most flowering plants for South Florida

For the best growth and flowering performance, Princess Flower prefers full to partial sun exposure. It may produce fewer blooms if there is too much shade.

The plant thrives in well-draining soil that retains moisture but does not become waterlogged. Adequate watering and mulching help maintain soil moisture, especially during dry periods.

Tibouchina urvilleana is well-adapted to Florida’s climate and thrives in hardiness zones 9 to 11. It can tolerate occasional light frost while flourishing in tropical to subtropical climates makes it an excellent choice for Florida landscaping.

Princess Flower blooms from late spring through fall, with peak flowering usually occurring in late summer. The striking flowers attract various pollinators, including butterflies and hummingbirds, contributing to the garden’s biodiversity.

12. Tropical Hibiscus

Image CC by 2.0 SA via Flickr

Popular in coastal gardens along the Gulf of Mexico, tropical hibiscus gives a very Caribbean feel to your landscaping. While most cultivars are hardy in Zones 10 and 11, you can easily nurse them through winters up to Zone 8.

Like hardy varieties, they love full sun and plenty of water. Mulch them heavily to keep them thriving.

Tropical Hibiscus has glossy, dark green leaves with a leathery texture, and they serve as an attractive backdrop for the striking flowers. In some cultivars, the foliage may have variations in color, such as burgundy-tinged edges or variegated patterns, adding to its visual appeal.

Tropical Hibiscus boasts large, showy, trumpet-shaped flowers, which come in a array of colors. These blossoms may appear in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow, and even white. Some cultivars feature captivating color combinations and intricate patterns on the petals, making each flower a unique work of art.

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis has a relatively compact growth habit, making it suitable for both container planting and landscaping. It can reach a mature height of 4 to 8 feet and a spread of 3 to 6 feet, depending on the variety and growing conditions.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical Hibiscus originates from East Asia, particularly China and has spread to many tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including Florida.

Tropical Hibiscus requires full sun exposure. It flourishes in well-draining soil with consistent moisture levels.

Tropical Hibiscus is suited for hardiness zones 9 to 11. Its preference for warm temperatures and ability to withstand mild frost make it a popular choice for Florida landscapes.

Tropical Hibiscus produces an abundance of showy flowers throughout the warm months, with peak blooming occurring in spring and summer. The nectar-rich blossoms attract various pollinators, such as bees and butterflies.

Thriving in warm and humid climates, Tropical Hibiscus is perfectly adapted to Florida’s conditions, making it a low-maintenance and sustainable flowering bush to add to the landscape.

How to Pick the Best Flowering Bushes for Florida

It should be easy to find flowering plants for Florida, including flowering shrubs and vines. Our subtropical climate is a garden designer’s dream because we can grow such a wide variety of ornamental landscape plants.

Check your local home improvement store or nursery to find starters or seeds. You can also purchase them in 1, 3, and 5-gallon size containers if you want instant gratification. One advantage to this is that you know what they’ll look like when they bloom and can take cuttings immediately to propagate.

You can also purchase online from nurseries. We frequently carry some of these varieties in our shop and in our Etsy store.

Patience pays off when it comes to flowering shrubs. Once they’ve gotten established, the best flowering bushes for Florida will bloom year after year, attracting bees and butterflies into your garden and giving your landscape real curb appeal. your perennial garden plants will bloom year after year.


Image CC0 via Pxhere

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Gulf Coast Gardening: Bougainvillea for Year-Round Vibrant Color in Your Garden

Imperial Delight Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea (pronounced boo-guhn-VIL-yuh) is a stunning and vibrant flowering plant that originates from the tropical and subtropical regions of South America. Named after the French navigator Louis Antoine de Bougainville, who discovered the plant in Brazil during the 18th century, bougainvillea is now widely cultivated for its breathtaking display of color.

Bougainvillea is a vigorous and woody vine that can either climb or sprawl depending on its surroundings. It features glossy green leaves that are ovate in shape and slightly textured. The foliage provides a lush and verdant backdrop to the magnificent flowers that steal the show.

What we often perceive as bougainvillea’s flowers are, in fact, modified leaves called bracts. The true flowers of the plant are small and inconspicuous, nestled within the center of the bracts. These bracts come in a wide range of vibrant colors, including shades of pink, purple, red, orange, yellow, and white, creating a dazzling visual spectacle.

The showy bracts serve an important purpose for bougainvillea. They help attract pollinators like bees and butterflies to the true flowers concealed within. Once pollinated, the true flowers give way to small, inconspicuous fruit that contains tiny seeds.

Bougainvillea is perennial in mild climates, providing years of vibrant beauty to your garden. With proper care and maintenance, it can reach an impressive height of 15 to 30 feet and spread out over a similar distance, creating a sprawling and eye-catching display of color.

Bougainvillea Varieties: Dwarf, Semi-Dwarf, and Extra Large

Bougainvillea cultivars come in various sizes, allowing you to choose the perfect fit for your garden or landscape.

Dwarf Bougainvillea

dwarf bougainvillea
Dwarf Dougainvillea

Dwarf bougainvillea varieties are compact and well-suited for smaller gardens, containers, or areas where space is limited. They offer all the beauty of bougainvillea in a more manageable size range.

Popular Dwarf Bougainvillea Cultivars

‘Helen Johnson’: This dwarf variety features stunning magenta-pink bracts and a compact growth habit. It reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet and is perfect for borders or small spaces.

‘La Jolla’: ‘La Jolla’ displays vibrant pink bracts and has a trailing habit, making it an excellent choice for hanging baskets or cascading over walls. It grows to a height of 2 to 3 feet.

La Jolla Bougainvillea
George Hull, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons

‘Pixie Queen’: With its variegated bracts in shades of pink and white, ‘Pixie Queen’ adds a touch of elegance to any garden. It has a bushy growth habit and reaches a height of 2 to 3 feet.

‘Vera Purple’: This dwarf cultivar boasts intense purple bracts and a compact, rounded growth habit. It is well-suited for borders or containers, growing up to 3 to 4 feet in height.

‘Tango’: ‘Tango’ offers vibrant orange bracts and a semi-dwarf growth habit. It is a prolific bloomer and reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet, making it an eye-catching addition to any landscape.

Tango bougainvillea

‘Singapore Pink’: This dwarf variety showcases delicate pink bracts and a low, spreading growth habit. It grows to a height of 2 to 3 feet, making it ideal for ground cover or rock gardens.

Semi-Dwarf Bougainvillea

Semi-dwarf bougainvillea varieties offer a balance between compact size and impressive floral displays. They are well-suited for hedges, trellises, or as standalone specimens.

Popular Semi-Dwarf Bougainvillea Cultivars

‘Torch Red’: With its vibrant red bracts, ‘Torch Red’ adds a fiery splash of color to the garden. It has a semi-dwarf growth habit, reaching a height of 4 to 6 feet, and is perfect for accentuating fences or arbors.

Friedrich Haag, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

‘Double Gold’: This semi-dwarf cultivar features double-layered bracts in a dazzling golden-yellow hue. It has a bushy growth habit and grows to a height of 4 to 5 feet.

‘Raspberry Ice’: ‘Raspberry Ice’ displays striking raspberry-pink bracts with white accents. It has a semi-dwarf growth habit and reaches a height of 4 to 5 feet, making it a standout choice for borders or containers.

Photo by David J. Stang, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

‘California Gold’: With its brilliant golden-yellow bracts, ‘California Gold’ adds a touch of warmth to the garden. It has a semi-dwarf growth habit, growing up to 4 to 6 feet in height.

‘Sundown Orange’: This semi-dwarf variety showcases vibrant orange bracts and a compact growth habit. It reaches a height of 4 to 5 feet, making it an attractive choice for landscaping or container planting.

‘Double Pink’: ‘Double Pink’ offers beautiful double-layered pink bracts and a semi-dwarf growth habit. It grows to a height of 4 to 6 feet and is a charming addition to any garden or patio.

Extra Large Bougainvillea

Extra large bougainvillea varieties make a bold statement in the landscape with their impressive size and profusion of colorful bracts. They are ideal for creating focal points or providing maximum coverage.

Popular Extra Large Bougainvillea Cultivars

‘Spectabilis’: ‘Spectabilis’ showcases stunning magenta bracts and has a vigorous climbing habit. It can reach a towering height of 20 to 30 feet, adding a dramatic touch to arbors or pergolas.

Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

‘San Diego Red’: This extra large variety features brilliant red bracts and a sprawling growth habit. It can reach a height and spread of 15 to 25 feet, creating a breathtaking display in the landscape.

‘Purple Queen’: ‘Purple Queen’ offers vibrant purple bracts and a climbing habit. It can grow up to 20 to 30 feet in height, making it a striking choice for trellises or fences.

Tomwsulcer, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

‘Royal Purple’: With its rich purple bracts, ‘Royal Purple’ adds regal beauty to any garden. It has a vigorous climbing habit and can reach a height of 20 to 30 feet.

‘Miss Alice’: This extra large cultivar displays pure white bracts and a sprawling growth habit. It can grow up to 15 to 25 feet in height and spread, creating a stunning display against dark green foliage.

Miss Alice Bougainvillea
Dinesh Valke from Thane, India, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

‘Rosenka’: ‘Rosenka’ offers unique apricot-colored bracts and a climbing habit. It can reach a height and spread of 20 to 30 feet, adding a warm and inviting touch to trellises or walls.

Ideal Growing Conditions for Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea thrives in hot and humid subtropical climates, making it an ideal choice for gardeners in the southern regions of the United States. It flourishes in regions with warm summers and mild winters, where temperatures rarely drop below freezing.

It is most commonly grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11, encompassing areas such as the Gulf Coast, Southern Florida, and parts of California and Arizona.

To ensure the successful growth and blooming of your bougainvillea, it’s crucial to provide it with the optimal growing conditions. Here are the key factors to consider:

Type of Climate Required

Temperature

Bougainvillea thrives in temperatures between 60°F (15°C) and 90°F (32°C), with temperatures around 70°F to 85°F (21°C to 29°C) being ideal for growth and blooming.

It is important to protect the plant from freezing temperatures, as they can damage or kill it. If you live in an area prone to frost, consider growing bougainvillea in containers that can be moved indoors during colder months.

Temperature Tolerance

When temperatures consistently drop below 50°F (10°C), bougainvillea’s growth may slow down or temporarily cease. However, it can resume growth when warmer conditions return.

Temperatures below 32°F can cause damage to bougainvillea. Prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures can result in wilting, leaf discoloration, leaf drop, and damage to the stems and branches. In severe cases, it can lead to plant death.

Bougainvillea can tolerate high temperatures, but extreme heat, especially above 100°F, can stress the plant. It may result in wilting, scorched leaves, reduced blooming, and overall decline. Providing shade or ensuring adequate hydration during hot spells can help mitigate the effects of excessive heat.

Free pink flower and window image, public domain spring CC0 photo.

Humidity

Bougainvillea appreciates moderate to high humidity levels, which are typically found in subtropical regions.

If you live in a drier climate, you can increase humidity around the plant by misting it regularly or placing a tray filled with water near the plant to create a humid microclimate.

Sunlight Exposure

Bougainvillea thrives in full sunlight. It requires at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day to produce an abundance of colorful bracts. Choose a location in your garden that receives ample sunlight and is not shaded by trees or buildings.

Ensure you plant bougainvillea in a location with maximum exposure to sunlight.

Soil Type

Bougainvillea prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Sandy loam or loamy soil is ideal for bougainvillea cultivation. If your soil is heavy or clay-like, consider improving its drainage and fertility by adding compost or well-rotted manure.

Bougainvillea thrives in slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Conduct a soil test to determine the pH of your garden soil. If the pH is outside the preferred range, adjust it by adding amendments.

For increasing acidity, use elemental sulfur, and for increasing alkalinity, add dolomite lime.

When and How to Plant Bougainvillea

The best time to plant bougainvillea in the ground is during the warm months of spring or early summer when the soil has warmed up and all danger of frost has passed. This allows the plant to establish its roots before the colder months arrive.

However, if you live in a region with mild winters, planting can also be done in fall.

Planting Bougainvillea Step-by-Step

When you’re ready to plant your bougainvillea, follow these steps:

Find a Good Location

Choose a location in your garden that receives full sunlight and has well-draining soil. Ensure there is enough space for the bougainvillea to grow and spread comfortably.

Prepare the Soil

Amend the soil by incorporating organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. This helps improve soil fertility, drainage, and water-holding capacity. Remove any weeds or debris from the planting area.

Dig the Planting Hole

Dig a hole that is twice as wide and deep as the bougainvillea’s root ball. This allows the roots to spread out easily. Ensure the hole is deep enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending or crowding.

Remove the Plant from its Container

Gently tap the sides of the container to loosen the root ball. Carefully slide the plant out, holding it by the base of the stems.

Planting the Bougainvillea

Place the root ball in the center of the planting hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the soil surface.

Backfill the hole with soil, firming it gently around the roots to eliminate air pockets.

Watering and Mulching

After planting, thoroughly water the bougainvillea to settle the soil and encourage root establishment.

Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or straw, around the base of the plant, leaving a small gap around the stems to prevent rotting.

Care and Maintenance of Bougainvillea

Once you’ve planted your bougainvillea, you’ll want to make sure it thrives.

Red climbing bougainvillea

Watering Throughout the Year

During the active growing seasons of spring and summer, water bougainvillea deeply and thoroughly, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Aim to provide regular, consistent moisture without waterlogging the roots.

Reduce watering frequency during the dormant period around late fall through the winter. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out more between waterings.

However, ensure the plant doesn’t experience prolonged drought stress, especially as temperatures begin to rise in February.

Optimal Fertilizer Composition and Schedule:

Fertilize your bougainvillea according to its stage of development and the needs of the season.

Spring

Use a balanced fertilizer with equal NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratios or a slightly higher nitrogen content.

Apply the fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks during the active growing season.

Summer

Switch to a bloom-boosting fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content to promote abundant flowering. Apply every 6 to 8 weeks.

Fall and Winter

Reduce or suspend fertilization during the dormant period. Bougainvillea generally requires less fertilizer during this time.

Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package for specific application rates and guidelines. Then, adjust fertilization based on the plant’s response and the quality of your soil.

Protecting Bougainvillea from Cold

Bougainvillea in snow

Even though we can grow tropical plants, we can still get the occasional cold snap in Florida and in states around the Gulf Coast.

Our normally mild winters can even mean that a cold snap is that much more devastating to plants that aren’t equipped to deal with them.

How you protect your bougainvillea will vary depending on how long the cold snap is predicted to last.

Watering

If you’ve lived in Florida for any length of time, you know how insane our weather can be. In the winter, for example, the temperature during the day could be 85°F and then sink to 38°F during the night, usually with the lowest temperature right before sunrise.

This happens several times a year in Central Florida, sometimes in December, but usually in January and February.

If the forecast is for a brief overnight cold snap, you should water your bougainvillea well during the warmth of the day prior.

The moist ground will store the warmth of the sun during the day, carrying through the night. So, make sure you water as early as possible to make the most of the sunlight.

If the cold period is predicted to last through daylight hours or last for several nights, excess moisture in the soil is a bad thing. So, in that case, do not water your bougainvillea during cold days or when it will be below 40°F for several nights in a row.

Bougainvillea overhanging snowy steps
Sctamar, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Mulching

Whether your water or not, it’s a good idea to apply a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant, extending it to cover the root zone. This helps insulate the soil and protect the roots from extreme cold.

Covering

Before the arrival of frost or freezing temperatures, cover the bougainvillea plant with a frost blanket or horticultural fabric. Secure the cover to the ground to create a protective barrier against cold winds.

I generally try to cover my plants well before sunset and the warmth of the day fade.

Container Plants

If you have bougainvillea in containers, move them to a sheltered location, such as a garage or greenhouse, during periods of freezing temperatures.

Pruning Bougainvillea for Optimal Growth and Shape

Pruning bougainvillea is essential for maintaining its shape, encouraging healthy growth, and promoting abundant flowering. Here’s a guide on how and when to prune your bougainvillea:

Timing of Pruning:

The best time to prune bougainvillea is during late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing allows the plant to recover and produce new shoots and blooms during the active growing season. However, minor pruning to remove dead or damaged branches can be done throughout the year. You may also need to prune it to keep it under control.

Tools Needed:

  • Pruning shears or sharp bypass hand pruners
  • Gardening gloves
  • Loppers or a pruning saw for thicker branches (if necessary)
  • Disinfectant solution (such as rubbing alcohol or bleach) to sterilize your pruning tools (before and after use) to prevent the spread of diseases.

The Pruning Process

Pruning bougainvillea while avoiding the thorns.

Follow these steps to prune your bougainvillea effectively:

Step 1: Assess the Plant:

Observe your bougainvillea and identify the branches that need to be pruned. Look for dead, damaged, or diseased branches, as well as any overly long or unruly growth that needs shaping.

Step 2: Prepare Your Tools:

Ensure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. Sterilize them with a disinfectant solution to prevent the spread of diseases from one plant to another.

Step 3: Prune Dead or Damaged Branches:

Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Make clean cuts just above a healthy bud or side branch, using sharp pruning shears. Cut at a slight angle to allow water to drain off the wound.

Step 4: Control the Plant’s Size and Shape:

To maintain the desired size and shape of your bougainvillea, selectively prune long or unruly branches. Identify branches that are extending beyond the desired boundaries or obstructing walkways, fences, or structures. Make pruning cuts just above a bud or side branch, leaving a stub of the branch to promote new growth.

Step 5: Thinning Out the Canopy (Optional)

If your bougainvillea is dense and overcrowded, you may consider thinning out the canopy to improve airflow and light penetration. Remove some of the interior branches to open up the plant and reduce the risk of pests or diseases.

Step 6: Clean Up and Disinfect:

After pruning, gather and remove the pruned branches and debris from the area. Dispose of them properly. Clean and disinfect your pruning tools with a sterilizing solution to prevent the spread of diseases.

Step 7: Post-Pruning Care:

After pruning, water your bougainvillea thoroughly to help it recover and encourage new growth. Apply a balanced fertilizer to provide the necessary nutrients for the plant’s recovery.

Remember, bougainvillea blooms on new growth, so avoid excessive pruning that removes too many potential blooming branches. Pruning should focus on maintaining the plant’s shape, removing dead or damaged branches, and promoting healthy growth.

Propagating Bouganvillea Cheap and Easy

The method works for me, so thanks to David the Good for this video.

Common Pests, Diseases, and Special Care for Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea, like any other plant, can be susceptible to certain pests, diseases, and specific care requirements. Here’s a breakdown of common pests, diseases, and special care for bougainvillea:

Common Bougainvillea Pests

Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed on plant sap, causing leaves to curl, yellow, or become distorted. To remedy aphid infestations, you can:

Spray a strong stream of water on the affected plant parts to dislodge the aphids.

Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil following the product instructions.

Introduce natural predators like ladybugs or lacewings to control aphid populations.

Caterpillars

Caterpillars, such as the bougainvillea looper or cabbage looper, can chew on leaves, causing significant damage. To remedy caterpillar infestations, you can:

Handpick and remove caterpillars from the plant.

Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a biological insecticide that targets caterpillars.

Use insecticidal sprays labeled for caterpillar control, following the product instructions.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are tiny, sap-sucking insects that cluster on the undersides of leaves, causing yellowing, leaf drop, and a sticky residue called honeydew. To remedy whitefly infestations, you can:

Use yellow sticky traps to capture adult whiteflies.

Spray the affected foliage with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, ensuring thorough coverage.

Encourage natural predators like parasitic wasps or ladybugs to control whitefly populations.

Common Bougainvillea Diseases

Leaf Spot

Leaf spot diseases, caused by fungi, manifest as dark spots or lesions on the foliage. To remedy leaf spot diseases, you can:

Prune and remove affected plant parts to improve airflow and reduce disease spread.

Apply copper-based fungicides according to the product instructions.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves, stems, and flowers. To remedy powdery mildew, you can:

Prune and thin out the plant to improve airflow.

Apply fungicides labeled for powdery mildew control, following the product instructions.

Root Rot

Root rot is a fungal disease caused by overly wet or poorly draining soil. It leads to root decay, wilting, and overall decline of the plant. To remedy root rot, you can:

Improve soil drainage by amending the soil with organic matter.

Adjust watering practices to avoid waterlogging the roots.

Apply fungicides labeled for root rot control, following the product instructions.

Special Needs and Care for Bougainvillea

Pruning and Training

Regular pruning is essential for maintaining shape, promoting airflow, and removing dead or diseased branches. Train bougainvillea to climb or grow in a desired direction using trellises, fences, or stakes.

Support for Climbing Varieties

If you have climbing varieties, provide proper support structures like trellises, arbors, or wires to guide the vines and prevent damage to nearby structures.

Winter Protection in Colder Zones

In regions with colder winters, protect bougainvillea from freezing temperatures by covering with frost blankets, moving potted plants indoors, or providing a sheltered location.

Landscape Design Ideas and Companion Plants for Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea’s vibrant colors and sprawling growth make it a fantastic addition to any landscape design in subtropical regions. Here are some design ideas and appropriate companion plants to complement bougainvillea.

Design Ideas Using Bougainvillea:

Colorful Fences and Walls

Use bougainvillea to add a splash of color and create a living tapestry along fences or walls. The vibrant bracts will create an eye-catching display and provide a beautiful backdrop for your outdoor space.

Pergolas and Trellises

Train bougainvillea vines to climb and adorn pergolas, trellises, or arbors. The cascading bracts will create a stunning overhead canopy, providing shade and a vibrant atmosphere.

ManuelBarreira (talk · contribs), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Container Planting

Plant bougainvillea in large containers or pots to add a vibrant focal point to patios, balconies, or entryways. Choose compact or dwarf varieties to keep the plant size manageable and ensure it thrives in the container environment.

Courtyard Gardens

Create a Mediterranean-inspired oasis in your courtyard by incorporating bougainvillea. Use it as a backdrop for a tranquil seating area or plant it in containers for a burst of color amidst lush greenery.

Hedge or Border Planting

For privacy or to define garden boundaries, consider planting bougainvillea as a hedge or border. Prune it regularly to maintain a desired height and shape while enjoying its colorful display.

bougainvillea hedge
Fjmustak, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Companion Plants for Bougainvillea

Plumbago (Plumbago auriculata):

Plumbago’s delicate blue flowers provide a lovely contrast to the bold colors of bougainvillea. It is a versatile shrub that can be used as a low hedge or ground cover, adding depth and texture to the garden.

Mexican Flame Vine (Senecio confusus):

With its cascading orange or red flowers, Mexican Flame Vine creates a stunning combination when paired with bougainvillea. Allow it to climb or trail through the bougainvillea for a captivating display.

Dinesh Valke from Thane, India, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Dwarf Bottlebrush (Callistemon spp.):

Dwarf bottlebrush is known for its vibrant, brush-like flowers in shades of red, pink, or yellow. Planted alongside bougainvillea, it adds height variation and attracts pollinators to the garden.

Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis):

Hibiscus and bougainvillea together create a tropical paradise. The large, showy flowers of hibiscus complement the bracts of bougainvillea, enhancing the overall visual impact of the landscape.

Bush Morning Glory (Convolvulus cneorum):

With its silver foliage and delicate white flowers, bush morning glory offers a beautiful contrast to the vibrant bracts of bougainvillea. Plant it as a low-growing ground cover or in containers.

When selecting companion plants for bougainvillea, consider their sunlight, water, and soil requirements to ensure they are compatible. Aim for a harmonious combination that enhances the visual appeal and complements the colors and textures of bougainvillea.

Bougainvillea can be incorporated into various landscape designs, from vibrant walls and fences to container plantings and courtyards. Pairing it with appropriate companion plants adds depth and creates a visually stunning garden.

The Beauty and Versatility of Bougainvillea in Your Garden

Bougainvillea trellis

Bougainvillea, with its vibrant and abundant display of colorful bracts, is a true gem for subtropical gardens in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Its versatility, resilience, and stunning visual appeal make it a cherished addition to any landscape design. Bougainvillea’s ability to thrive in hot and humid climates, coupled with its preference for full sunlight, allows it to create a striking visual impact on walls, fences, trellises, and in containers. Whether used as a focal point, a living tapestry, or a cascading canopy, bougainvillea adds a touch of tropical beauty and splendor to outdoor spaces. With proper care, pruning, and companion planting, bougainvillea can transform your garden into a vibrant paradise, captivating the senses with its vivid colors and exuberant blooms. So, embrace the beauty of bougainvillea and let it infuse your garden with its warmth, charm, and botanical splendor.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Bougainvillea

Do bougainvillea like acidic soil?

Yes, bougainvillea prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0.

Do bougainvillea like coffee grounds?

Coffee grounds can be beneficial for bougainvillea as they help to slightly acidify the soil, which is favorable for their growth.

Is bougainvillea poisonous to dogs?

While bougainvillea is generally considered non-toxic to dogs, it’s always best to keep pets from ingesting any part of the plant to avoid potential digestive issues.

Do bougainvillea like sun or shade?

Bougainvillea thrives in full sunlight and requires at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal growth and blooming.

Is bougainvillea better in pots or ground?

Bougainvillea can be grown both in pots and in the ground. However, they require proper care and attention in containers to ensure adequate drainage and regular watering.

How do you keep bougainvillea alive in the winter?

In colder regions, protect bougainvillea from freezing temperatures by covering them with frost blankets, moving potted plants indoors, or providing a sheltered location.

Do bougainvillea bloom year-round?

Bougainvillea typically blooms in cycles, producing vibrant bracts for several months at a time. While they may have intermittent blooms throughout the year, they don’t usually bloom year-round.

Do hummingbirds like bougainvillea?

Yes, hummingbirds are attracted to the bright and showy bracts of bougainvillea, making it a favorite plant to attract these delightful birds to your garden.

Does bougainvillea attract rodents?

Bougainvillea itself does not attract rodents. However, rodents may seek shelter in the dense foliage if the plant is grown against structures or near their nesting areas.

What month is best to plant bougainvillea?

Spring is the ideal time to plant bougainvillea, as the warmer temperatures and longer daylight hours promote healthy root establishment and growth.

Do bougainvillea need lots of water?

Bougainvillea prefers regular watering but should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Avoid overwatering, as it can lead to root rot and other issues.

How do you get bougainvillea to spread?

Bougainvillea naturally spreads through its vining growth habit. You can encourage lateral spreading by pruning and training the plant, or by providing support structures for the vines to grow horizontally.

How do I keep my bougainvillea blooming all summer?

To keep bougainvillea blooming throughout the summer, ensure it receives adequate sunlight, provide regular watering, and fertilize appropriately during the active growing season.

How do you keep bougainvillea bushy?

Regular pruning helps to keep bougainvillea bushy and encourages branching. Prune back long or unruly branches to promote a compact and bushy growth habit.

Do you cut back bougainvillea?

Yes, bougainvillea benefits from regular pruning to maintain its shape, remove dead or diseased branches, and promote new growth. Pruning is typically done in late winter or early spring.

What does an overwatered bougainvillea look like?

An overwatered bougainvillea may exhibit yellowing leaves, wilting, root rot, and a general decline in health. The soil may feel excessively wet or waterlogged.

How often should bougainvillea be trimmed?

Bougainvillea can be trimmed as needed to control its size and shape. Major pruning is typically done once a year in late winter or early spring, but minor pruning for maintenance can be done throughout the year.

Featured Image via Wikimedia 阿橋 HQ, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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Perpetual Spinach Chard: Heat-Tolerant Greens for Subtropical Gardens

perpetual spinach chard

Perpetual spinach chard is a rare leafy vegetable that thrives in subtropical climates. With its rich heritage and impressive adaptability, this hardy plant is a must-have for gardeners residing in warmer zones 9 through 11.

Perpetual spinach chard, scientifically known as Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. cicla ‘Perpetual Spinach’, belongs to the beet family. It is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where it was cultivated for centuries. This versatile vegetable has a long history of culinary use, with its origins dating back to ancient Greek and Roman times.

Perpetual Spinach Chard Plant Details

Perpetual spinach chard features large, tender leaves that are glossy and dark green, similar to true spinach but with a slightly thicker texture. The leaves grow on sturdy, succulent stalks.

The plant has a biennial growth habit, although it is often cultivated as an annual in cooler climates. It typically reaches maturity within 55 to 60 days from sowing. When fully grown, this leafy vegetable forms a compact rosette of lush foliage, reaching a height of about 12 to 18 inches and spreading approximately 12 inches in width. Its compact size makes it an excellent choice for container gardening as well.

Where and When to Grow Perpetual Spinach

For gardeners residing in the U.S. perpetual spinach chard thrives in subtropical regions with warmer climates. Specifically, it performs exceptionally well in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11. The milder winters and longer growing seasons found in these areas create the perfect conditions for this robust leafy green.

perpetual spinach in the garden

Optimal Growing Conditions for Perpetual Spinach Chard

For the best results and the most abundant harvest, keep the following factors in mind.

Temperature

Perpetual spinach chard thrives in moderate temperatures, preferring a range between 60°F and 80°F. However, it is very heat tolerant and will tolerate cold snaps down to 32°F. Growth will slow during extreme heat and cold.

Humidity

The plant prefers moderate humidity levels. While it can tolerate higher humidity, it is important to provide good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.

Sunlight

Perpetual spinach chard requires full sun to partial shade, with a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hotter regions, providing some afternoon shade can help prevent wilting or scorching of the leaves. It’s suitable for shady patches of the garden in subtropical zones.

Soil Type

It thrives in well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting will help provide the necessary nutrients and improve soil structure.

Buy seeds

Planting Times

Since perpetual chard acts as a perennial edible plant in subtropical zones, you can plant it nearly any time of year. However, avoid planting out during the hottest or coldest times.

For spring planting, start indoors up to 8 weeks before the last frost date and plant out once that date has passed.

In the summer or fall, start seeds indoors, and plant out once the plant has fully developed (about 8 weeks). For best cold resilience, sow and establish at least one month before the first frost date.

Starting Perpetual Spinach Chard Seeds

We recommend starting perpetual chard seeds in cell trays or soil blocks. This allows you to plant out a healthy, well-developed young plant that is more resistant to pests and disease.

  • Fill cell trays or soil blocks with a high-quality seed-starting mix, moistening it slightly before planting.
  • Sow the seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep.
  • Place the trays or blocks in a warm location with temperatures around 70°F to 75°F.
  • Maintain consistent moisture by misting the soil surface or using a bottom-watering technique.
  • Germination typically occurs within 7 to 14 days.

Once the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, you can transplant them into the garden. However, we recommend planting out once the plant is 6” and has developed several sets of true leaves. This ensures it will better survive transplant shock or environmental pressures.

Transplanting Perpetual Spinach Chard

Once you have healthy young seedlings, you’ll want to transplant them into your garden or into a larger container.

Into Garden Beds:

  1. Choose a well-prepared garden bed with loose, amended soil.
  2. Dig holes that are slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling.
  3. Gently remove the seedlings from the module cell or soil block tray, taking care not to damage the roots.
  4. Place the seedlings into the holes and backfill with soil, firming it gently around the base of the plants.
  5. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart to allow sufficient room for growth.
  6. Water the newly transplanted seedlings thoroughly to help them establish.

Into Containers:

Select containers that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep to accommodate the root system.

  1. Fill the containers with a well-draining potting mix, leaving about an inch of space below the rim.
  2. Gently remove the seedlings from the cell trays or soil block trays, being careful not to disturb the roots.
  3. Place the seedlings in the center of each container and fill in the remaining space with potting mix.
  4. Water the containers thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom.

Temp Tolerance for Perpetual Spinach

Perpetual chard may require some extra care when the weather is extreme.

Protect from Excessive Heat

High temperatures above 95°F can cause the leaves to wilt, scorch, and lose flavor. Providing shade or mulching can help protect the plants during extreme heat.

Protection from Cold

To protect perpetual chard from a deep cold snap, apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants to insulate the roots and conserve moisture. Cover the plants with row covers or frost blankets during freezing temperatures.

Watering Schedule

During the winter and spring, water the plants deeply once or twice a week, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.

During the summer and fall, water as needed to provide moisture if it doesn’t rain adequately.

Fertilizer Composition and Schedule

Prior to planting, incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil for nutrient enrichment.

During the growing season, apply a balanced organic fertilizer or a slow-release granular fertilizer according to the package instructions every 4 to 6 weeks.

Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization, as it can promote leafy growth at the expense of root development. Opt for a balanced fertilizer instead.

Common Pests

Perpetual spinach chard may be subject to a few pests.

Aphids: Use a strong blast of water or insecticidal soap to control aphid infestations.

Slugs and Snails: We recommend Sluggo baits, which are very effective, very affordable, and certified OMRI for organic use.

Leaf Miners: Remove infested leaves and destroy them to reduce leaf miner populations.

Caterpillars: Handpick caterpillars or use organic insecticides labeled for vegetable use. We recommend products containing a naturally occurring bacteria called Bacillus thuringiensis (or bt for short), such as Thuricide.

Similar products that contain Spinosad are also organic and are affective against a wider range of pest insects, including aphids. Monterey’s Spinosad is an excellent choice.

Common Diseases

Downy Mildew: Ensure good air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply appropriate fungicides if necessary.

Leaf Spot: Remove affected leaves and practice good sanitation to prevent the spread of the disease.

For significant infections, we recommend applying an organic copper spray after removing the affected foliage.

Powdery Mildew: Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply fungicides labeled for powdery mildew control. Apply a mixture of 8 Tbs of household hydrogen peroxide (3%) mixed with one gallon of water with a sprayer every three days for a week or two for an inexpensive organic fungicide against powdery mildew.

Regularly monitor your plants for any signs of pests or diseases and take prompt action to prevent damage or spread.

Special Needs and Care for Perpetual Spinach Chard

Thinning: When sowing directly, think seedlings when they reach a height of about 2 to 3 inches to ensure proper spacing between plants. Remove the weaker seedlings, leaving the healthiest and strongest ones to grow. These plants grow best when spaced at around 12”.

Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants to help conserve moisture, suppress weed growth, and regulate soil temperature.

Companion Plants for Perpetual Spinach

Perpetual spinach chard can benefit from companion planting, which involves growing compatible plants in close proximity to enhance growth, deter pests, and promote overall garden health. Here are some suitable companion plants for perpetual chard:

Herbs

Plant aromatic herbs like basil, dill, parsley, and cilantro near perpetual spinach chard to repel pests and attract beneficial insects.

Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums serve as sacrificial plants, attracting pests like aphids away from perpetual chard.

Harvesting Perpetual Spinach

Regularly harvest outer leaves when they reach a size of about 6 to 8 inches long. This will encourage continuous growth and prevent the plants from bolting.

If the plants start to bolt (produce flower stalks), it is best to remove them to maintain quality. Alternatively, you can allow them to flower for your bee population and to collect seeds once matured.

Perpetual chard can be harvested as soon as the outer leaves reach a desirable size. Here’s how to harvest:

  • Select the outer leaves, starting with the largest ones, leaving the smaller inner leaves to continue growing.
  • Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the leaves off at the base, or you can gently twist and pull them from the stem.
  • Harvest regularly to encourage new leaf growth and a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.

Cooking with Perpetual Spinach

Perpetual spinach chard is a versatile leafy green that can be enjoyed in various culinary creations. Here are some cooking and meal ideas:

Fresh Salads

Use young and tender leaves as a nutritious base for salads. Mix with other greens, add your favorite toppings, and dress with a light vinaigrette.

Sautéed or Stir-Fried

Heat olive oil or butter in a pan, add chopped leaves, and sauté with garlic, onions, or other vegetables for a flavorful side dish. Stir-frying with soy sauce and sesame oil also creates a delicious Asian-inspired dish.

Quiches and Frittatas

Add cooked and chopped leaves to quiches, frittatas, or egg muffins for a nutrient-packed and flavorful meal.

Soups and Stews

Incorporate into soups, stews, or hearty winter dishes for added nutrition and a vibrant green color.

Wraps and Sandwiches

Use large perpetual spinach chard leaves as a substitute for tortillas or bread in wraps and sandwiches for a healthy and low-carb option.

Experiment with different recipes and cooking techniques to make the most of the versatile chard in your culinary endeavors. Enjoy the fresh and vibrant flavors it brings to your meals!

Your Subtropical Garden Needs Perpetual Spinach Chard

Perpetual chard is a versatile and visually appealing addition to subtropical gardens in the United States. Its origins in the Mediterranean region and its ability to flourish in warmer climates make it an ideal choice for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 through 11.

Whether used as an ornamental plant or harvested as a nutritious leafy green, perpetual spinach chard offers gardeners a delightful and productive gardening experience.

You can purchase seeds for perpetual spinach chard from our website.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing and Using Perpetual Spinach

Why is it called perpetual spinach?

Perpetual spinach got its name because it produces a continuous harvest of spinach-like leaves throughout the growing season.

What are some perpetual spinach chard benefits?

Perpetual chard is packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, supports immune health, promotes digestion, and provides essential nutrients.

What is the difference between spinach and perpetual spinach?

It has thicker leaves and sturdier stalks compared to true spinach. It is much more heat tolerant and tends to have a longer growing season.

Does perpetual spinach taste like spinach?

Yes, it has a mild, slightly sweet taste similar to true spinach but with a heartier texture.

Can you eat perpetual spinach stalks?

Yes, the succulent stalks are edible and can be enjoyed in various culinary preparations.

Is perpetual spinach the same as chard?

Yes, perpetual spinach is a type of chard, specifically a variety that resembles and tastes like true spinach.

What is another name for perpetual spinach?

Another name for perpetual spinach is “leaf beet.”

What grows well with perpetual spinach?

It grows well with herbs like basil and dill, brassicas like broccoli, and beans.

How do you cook perpetual spinach?

You can cook it by sautéing, stir-frying, adding to soups or stews, or using it raw in salads and wraps.

How long will perpetual spinach last?

With regular harvesting and proper care, you’ll get a continuous harvest for several months. In subtropical regions with mild winters, it will easily last for a year or more.

What is perpetual spinach good for?

It’s good for adding nutrition to meals, supporting overall health, and providing a versatile leafy green option in climates that are too hot to grow traditional salad greens.

How do you maintain perpetual spinach?

Maintain the plant by ensuring consistent moisture, proper spacing, regular harvesting, and protecting from extreme temperatures.

Where do you cut perpetual spinach?

When harvesting, cut the outer leaves close to the base of the plant, leaving the inner leaves to continue growing.

What does perpetual spinach taste like?

It has a mild, slightly sweet taste with a hint of nuttiness.

Is perpetual spinach the same as New Zealand spinach?

No, perpetual spinach and New Zealand spinach are different plants, although they are both leafy greens commonly used as spinach alternatives.

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Gulf Coast Gardening: Duranta Erecta’s Tropical Splendor

Duranta erecta with butterfly

With its glorious sprays of deep purple flowers that dangle in graceful sprays, Duranta erecta brings vivid tropical color to any Gulf Coast area garden. Native to the tropical regions of the Americas, the most used Duranta erecta common name is Golden Dewdrop, though some call it Pigeon Berry. It boasts vibrant color and an elegant weeping shape, blooming profusely and attracting bees and butterflies.

Duranta erecta is a multi-stemmed shrub that can reach a height of 6 to 15 feet with a spread of 6 to 10 feet. It features an upright and bushy growth habit, adorned with glossy green foliage and clusters of vibrant flowers.

The foliage of the Duranta erecta plant consists of small, elliptical leaves arranged in an opposite or whorled pattern along the stems. The leaves have a lustrous green color and provide an attractive backdrop to the blossoms. The plant is evergreen in subtropical and tropical climates.

One of the highlights of Duranta is its showy flowers. The pendulous flower clusters, known as racemes, dangle from the branches and are adorned with tubular blossoms. The flowers come in various colors, including shades of purple, blue, white, or a combination of these hues, creating a striking visual display.

Duranta Origins

Duranta erecta plant
Mokkie, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Duranta erecta originates from the Caribbean, Mexico, and South America, where it thrives in warm and tropical climates. It has since become naturalized in many parts of the world, including the Gulf Coast region of the United States.

In its native habitat, you’ll find Duranta growing in open woodlands, thickets, and disturbed areas. It is well-adapted to tropical and subtropical environments, showcasing its resilience and versatility.

Duranta is generally suitable for growing in USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11. Growing Duranta in Florida provides a particularly favorable climate for the successful cultivation of this tropical beauty. It also thrives along the Gulf Coast in Texas and Louisiana.

Optimal Growing Conditions

Duranta erecta thrives in full sun to partial shade, making it adaptable to different light conditions. It prefers well-draining soil with moderate moisture retention. Once established, it can tolerate periods of drought.

Golden Dewdrop Duranta erecta delivers a prolonged flowering season, typically spanning from spring to late fall. During this time, the plant produces an abundance of blossoms, drawing in squadrons of delighted bees.

Duranta berries are small, spherical fruits that develop after the flowering period. They are a vibrant golden or yellow color, hence the common name for Duranta: “Golden Dewdrop.”

These berries, typically about 1/2 inch in diameter, add ornamental value to the plant and contribute to its overall visual appeal. However, it is important to note that the berries are considered toxic if ingested, especially to children and pets, so precautions should be taken to prevent accidental ingestion.

Wildlife Benefits of Golden Dewdrop Duranta Erecta

Duranta butterfly

Duranta erecta serves as a valuable host plant for butterfly species such as the Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae) and the White Peacock (Anartia jatrophae). These butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, and the resulting larvae, or caterpillars, feed on the foliage.

Duranta Erecta Care

Care of your Golden Dewdrop plant is relatively straightforward when grown under the right conditions.

Light Requirements

Duranta erecta thrives in full sun to partial shade. It prefers a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth and flowering. In areas with intense afternoon sun, providing partial shade during the hottest part of the day can help prevent stress and sunburn.

Soil Type

Duranta prefers well-draining soil that retains some moisture without becoming waterlogged. It adapts well to various soil types, including loam, sandy, or clay soils.

Soil pH

The ideal soil pH for Duranta ranges between slightly acidic to slightly alkaline, around 6.0 to 7.5. Conduct a soil test to determine the pH level and amend the soil if necessary to maintain the desired range.

Climate Requirements

Golden Dewdrop is well-suited to tropical and subtropical climates. It thrives in areas with warm temperatures, moderate humidity, and mild winters.

Temperature Tolerances

The optimal temperature range for Duranta is between 65°F and 85°F, providing the ideal conditions for growth and flowering.

Duranta growth may slow or temporarily stop when temperatures drop below 50°F.

Prolonged exposure to temperatures below 32°F can cause damage and the plant may experience leaf drop, browning, or dieback of branches.

In extremely hot conditions above 95°F, Golden Dewdrop may experience heat stress, resulting in wilting, leaf burn, or reduced overall vigor. Providing shade or adequate watering can help mitigate the effects of high temperatures.

Protecting Duranta from Cold

When temperatures drop below freezing, protect Duranta from cold damage:

  • Water well and deeply during the warmth of the day.
  • Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to insulate the roots and retain soil moisture.
  • Cover the plant with a frost cloth or blanket during freezing temperatures to protect it from frost damage.

Elevation Concerns

Duranta is adaptable to various elevations within its suitable hardiness zones. However, keep in mind that colder temperatures at higher elevations may require additional protection during winter months.

Planting Duranta for Successful Establishment

Duranta
Dinkum, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Considering your landscape carefully before planting your Duranta. Remember, it will grow to a large size if not regularly pruned.

Choosing a Location

Select a site that receives full sun to partial shade, ensuring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Consider the plant’s mature size and provide enough space for it to grow without overcrowding nearby plants or structures.

Ensure the planting location has well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Planting a Duranta erecta Plant:

Dig a hole: Dig a hole that is twice the width and slightly deeper than the root ball of the Duranta erecta plant.

Prepare the soil

If the soil is heavy clay or lacks organic matter, mix in compost or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and fertility.

Remove the plant from its container

Gently tap or squeeze the container to loosen the root ball, then carefully slide the plant out.

Position the plant

Place the plant in the center of the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the soil surface.

Backfill the hole

Fill the hole with the amended soil, gently firming it around the root ball to eliminate air pockets.

Water thoroughly

Give the newly planted Duranta erecta a deep watering to settle the soil and establish good root-to-soil contact.

Aftercare

Provide regular watering, keeping the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during the first few months after planting.

Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the stem. Mulch helps conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds.

Watering Schedule

Duranta can be a thirsty plant, so consider the weather and temperature when deciding how frequently to water your plant.

  • Spring: Water thoroughly and regularly as new growth emerges.
  • Summer: Increase watering during hot and dry periods to ensure adequate soil moisture.
  • Fall: Maintain regular watering as the plant prepares for winter.
  • Winter: Reduce watering, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Optimal Duranta Fertilizer Composition and Schedule

To make the most of your fertilizer dollars, make sure you feed your Golden Dewdrop appropriately throughout the year.

Leafing Out (Spring)

Use a balanced slow-release fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. Apply according to the package instructions, typically in early spring when new growth begins. Follow recommended rates based on the size and age of the plant.

Blossom (Summer)

Switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as a 10-20-10 or 15-30-15. Apply as directed on the package during the active blooming period to support flower production and quality.

Pre-Winter/Over Winter

Avoid fertilizing during late fall and winter when the plant enters a period of dormancy. Instead, focus on providing adequate moisture and protecting the plant from cold temperatures.

Placing a thick layer of compost or other organic matter under the mulch to break down over winter will provide better growing conditions in spring.

Note: It is crucial to follow the specific instructions provided by the fertilizer manufacturer and adjust the amounts based on the plant’s needs and growing conditions.

Duranta erecta alba
Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0 US, via Wikimedia Commons

Common Duranta Pests

There are a few pests that might make a meal of your Golden Dewdrop. Remember that you don’t have to remove them if you choose not to. Many of these pests provide food for wildlife, so you may want to refrain from treatment unless they threaten the life of your plant.

Aphids

These small, soft-bodied insects cluster on new growth, sucking sap from the plant. Use a strong jet of water to dislodge them and let ladybugs feast on the rest.

It’s also a good idea to look for ants if you see an aphid infestation. Ants will protect aphids from predators in order to farm them for their “dew.”. An ant trap with boric acid will reduce the number of ants and aphids in an environmentally friendly way.

Whiteflies

These tiny, white insects congregate on the undersides of leaves, causing yellowing and stunted growth. Remedy: Use insecticidal soap, neem oil, or introduce natural predators like ladybugs or lacewings.

Caterpillars

Various caterpillar species, such as the caterpillars of the Gulf Fritillary butterfly, can feed on the leaves. We recommend handpicking them, but only if they seem to be a real threat to your Duranta erecta plant.

Note that Oleander moth caterpillars may also infest your Duranta plant and become devastating. Unfortunately, it is easy to confuse them with Gulf Fritillary caterpillars.

Spider Mites

These tiny pests cause yellow stippling on leaves and produce fine webbing. Spray the foliage with a strong jet of water to dislodge them or apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Spider mites usually appear only on dry and desiccated plants, so spray the plant frequently and water more regularly.

Golden Dewdrop Common Diseases

Leaf Spot: Fungal leaf spot diseases can cause dark spots or patches on the leaves. Prune infected branches to improve air circulation around the plant. Fungicidal sprays may be necessary for severe infections. Copper sprays are generally considered safe and affordable and most are listed for organic gardening.

Powdery Mildew

This fungal disease forms a white, powdery coating on the leaves, stems, and flowers. Prune to Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and apply fungicidal sprays as needed.

A solution of 8-12 tablespoons of household hydrogen peroxide (3%) in 1 gallon of water sprayed every three days for a week will reduce powdery mildew with diligent application.

Root Rot

Overwatering or poorly drained soil can lead to root rot, causing yellowing leaves, wilting, and eventual plant decline. Remedy: Ensure proper drainage and adjust watering practices. If unable to remediate the soil quality, you may need to move the plant to a location with better drainage.

Duranta Eerecta Propagation

Although it may take several tries and some time to propagate Duranta from cuttings, it’s well worth your effort.

  1. Select a stem cutting: Choose a healthy, non-flowering stem measuring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in length.
  2. Prepare the cutting: Use clean, sharp pruning shears to make a clean cut just below a leaf node.
  3. Remove lower leaves: Remove the lower leaves, leaving a few leaves at the top of the cutting.
  4. Apply rooting hormone (optional): Dip the cut end of the cutting into a rooting hormone powder or gel to enhance root formation.
  5. Plant the cutting: Insert the cut end of the stem into a well-draining potting mix or a mix of peat moss and perlite, ensuring at least one node is below the soil surface. I use a 50/50 mix of coco coir and perlite that provides both moisture retention and excellent drainage.
  6. Provide optimal conditions: Place the potted cutting in a warm, bright location with indirect sunlight. Maintain a consistently moist but not waterlogged soil.
  7. Rooting process: Keep the soil moist and provide high humidity by covering the cutting with a plastic bag or using a propagation tray with a clear lid. Roots should develop in a few weeks to a few months.
  8. Transplanting: Once the roots have developed, carefully transplant the rooted cutting into a larger pot or desired planting location.

Landscaping with Duranta

Duranta erecta wildlife butterfly
Adam Jones Adam63, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Golden Dewdrop’s striking appearance and adaptability make it a valuable addition to various landscaping designs.

One of the benefits is that you can prune Duranta erecta into a tree shape. You can also create a Duranta erecta hedge with a row of specimens.

Here are some other creative ideas to incorporate this versatile plant into your landscape:

Colorful Hedges and Borders

Use Duranta erecta as a hedge or border plant to create a vibrant living fence. Its dense foliage and colorful flowers add visual interest and define spaces. Consider planting them in a row along a pathway or around garden beds for a lively and eye-catching border. Prune regularly to ensure bushy growth and increase the density of the hedge.

Focal Point in Mixed Borders

Plant Duranta as a focal point within mixed borders or perennial beds. Its tall stature and profusion of blooms draw the eye and provide a stunning centerpiece. Combine it with other flowering plants that complement its colors, such as salvias, lantanas, or petunias.

Container Gardening

Duranta is well-suited for container gardening. Place potted specimens on patios, balconies, or porches to add a tropical touch to your outdoor living spaces. Choose large containers to accommodate the plant’s mature size and pair it with cascading or trailing plants for added texture and visual interest.

Poolside Landscaping

The lush foliage and attractive flowers of Duranta erecta make it an excellent choice for poolside landscaping. Plant it as a backdrop to create a tropical oasis around your pool area. The reflection of the blooms on the water’s surface adds a touch of tranquility.

Butterfly and Pollinator Gardens

Duranta’s nectar-rich flowers attract butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. Create a dedicated butterfly or pollinator garden by incorporating Golden Dewdrop along with other butterfly-friendly plants, such as milkweed, butterfly bush, and zinnias. This will not only enhance the visual appeal but also contribute to the local ecosystem.

Landscape Ornamentals that Pair Well with Duranta

When choosing companion plants for Duranta, consider those with similar soil, light exposure, water, and fertilization requirements. Here are a few examples:

Native Lantana (Lantana depressa)

These colorful flowering perennials share similar growth habits and requirements with Duranta. Their vibrant yellow blooms complement the deep purple of Duranta and attract pollinators.

Pentas (Pentas lanceolata)

With their long-lasting clusters of star-shaped flowers, Pentas create a beautiful contrast when planted alongside Golden Dewdrop. They thrive in similar conditions and provide additional pops of color.

Tropical Sage (Salvia coccinea)

The upright, red flower spikes of Tropical Sage create an excellent complement to Duranta’s vivid purple blooms.

Plumbago (Plumbago auriculata)

The delicate blue flowers of Plumbago complement the colors of Golden Dewdrop and both plants thrive in similar conditions.

Cape Honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis)

This evergreen shrub displays clusters of vibrant orange or red tubular flowers, creating a stunning contrast when planted alongside Duranta.

Firebush (Hamelia patens)

With its fiery red-orange tubular flowers, Firebush adds a splash of color and attracts hummingbirds, making it an excellent companion plant.

Society Garlic (Tulbaghia violacea)

This perennial herb features attractive gray-green foliage and clusters of purple flowers. It pairs well with Duranta erecta and adds a delightful fragrance to the garden.

Mexican Flame Vine (Senecio confusus)

Known for its bright orange blooms, Mexican Flame Vine creates a beautiful backdrop when combined with Duranta.

Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

This native Florida vining plant that produces attractive red-orange tubular flowers, which can create a beautiful contrast when planted near Duranta colorful blooms. Additionally, Coral Honeysuckle is known to attract hummingbirds, further enhancing your garden’s appeal to wildlife.

These plant selections will provide a diverse landscape, attracting pollinators, beneficials, and other wildlife to your subtropical garden.

Vivid Gulf Coast Garden Color

Duranta erecta, with its vibrant purple flowers, bright golden berries, and attractive foliage offers numerous opportunities for tropical landscaping designs. Planted with native Gulf Coast region flowering perennials and other wildflowers, your garden will soon be bursting with life, movement, and color.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Duranta

Can Duranta take full sun?

Yes, Duranta erecta thrives in full sun but can also tolerate partial shade.

Is a Duranta a perennial?

Yes, Duranta erecta is a perennial shrub.

Will Duranta survive a freeze?

Duranta is sensitive to freezing temperatures and may experience damage or die back in severe freezes.

Does Duranta erecta like sun or shade?

Duranta prefers full sun to partial shade.

How cold can Duranta tolerate?

Duranta can tolerate temperatures down to around 25°F (-4°C), but extended cold periods can cause damage or even kill the plant.

Do hummingbirds like Duranta?

Yes, hummingbirds are attracted to the vibrant flowers of Duranta erecta.

What hardiness zone is Duranta erecta?

Duranta erecta is typically suitable for USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11.

Should I deadhead Duranta?

Deadheading spent flowers can encourage continued blooming and maintain a neat appearance, but it is not necessary. You may want to trim off and dispose of the berries if you have concerns about their toxicity.

How big does Duranta get?

Duranta erecta can grow to a height of 6 to 15 feet (1.8 to 4.6 meters) with a spread of 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 meters).

Does Duranta bloom all summer?

Duranta erecta has a prolonged flowering season, typically blooming from spring to fall, but the intensity and duration of flowering can vary.

Is a Duranta a tree or a bush?

Duranta erecta is typically grown as a bushy shrub, but it can be trained into a small duranta erecta tree form with proper pruning.

How do you take care of Duranta in the winter?

In winter, protect Duranta erecta from frost by covering it with a frost cloth or blanket and applying a layer of organic mulch around the base to insulate the roots.

Does Duranta attract bees?

Duranta erecta does attract bees and butterflies with its nectar-rich flowers.

What is the common name for Duranta?

Duranta erecta is commonly known as Golden Dewdrop or Pigeon Berry.

Does Duranta erecta have medicinal uses?

While Duranta erecta has some traditional medicinal uses, it is primarily cultivated as an ornamental plant. In certain cultures, various parts of Duranta erecta, such as the leaves and roots, have been used in traditional medicine to treat conditions like fever, cough, respiratory ailments, and skin infections.

What is Duranta erecta aurea?

Duranta erecta aurea is a cultivar of Duranta erecta with golden or yellow foliage.

What is Duranta erecta alba?

Duranta erecta alba is a cultivar of Duranta erecta with white flowers.

Where can I purchase Duranta erecta?

We frequently carry Duranta in our nursery. You can check out our Etsy shop for the current inventory.

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Gulf Coast Gardening: Growing Plumbago for Tropical Beauty

Plumbago, a genus comprising several species of flowering plants, has captured the hearts of gardeners and horticulturists around the world with its dazzling beauty and ability to thrive in tropical and subtropical climates.

Gulf Coast gardeners may find three species available within the Plumbago genus, each possessing its own unique characteristics and charm.

Plumbago auriculata

Plumbago auriculata, Cape Plumbago
Vengolis, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Originating from South Africa, Plumbago auriculata, commonly known as Cape leadwort, Cape Plumbago, or blue plumbago, thrives in the Gulf Coast region of the United States. This is the species you will most likely encounter in commercial nurseries. It is most often a light to bright blue, but you can also find a white variety of the flower.

In its native habitat, this evergreen shrub thrives in a variety of environments, from rocky slopes to coastal dunes.

It’s a versatile and visually striking plant. It typically grows into a dense, rounded shrub, reaching an average height of 6 to 10 feet with a spread of 6 to 8 feet. Its glossy, deep green leaves are elongated and lance-shaped, creating an elegant backdrop for the plant’s vibrant blue flowers.

Blue Plumbago is known for its proliferation of flowers. Throughout the warm months, usually from late spring to fall, even into winter in zones 10 and 11, the plant offers multiple clusters of tubular flowers in hues ranging from white to pale sky blue to deep cobalt blue. The delicate blossoms, about 1 inch in diameter, have a very subtle fragrance and attract various pollinators, including bees and butterflies.

When it comes to hardiness zones, it thrives in zones 8 to 11 within the U.S., making it a suitable choice for gardeners along the Gulf Coast and other mild-winter regions. However, in colder areas, it can be grown in containers and brought indoors during the winter months.

Cape Plumbago with white flowers
No machine-readable author provided. Calvin Teo assumed (based on copyright claims)., CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons

Species care details

To achieve optimal growth and bloom, provide Plumbago auriculata with full sun to partial shade. This species is adaptable to a wide range of soil types, but it prefers well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. Regular watering is necessary, especially during drier periods, to maintain healthy growth.

This is one of the most reliable landscape ornamentals in my garden, and I find that it’s very fussy (hungry and thirsty) for the first three years but after that, it flourishes with very little care.

The plant’s nectar-rich flowers serve as a valuable food source for pollinators, while its foliage offers shelter for various insects and small animals. I frequently find Florida anoles napping in the branches.

Several butterfly species, such as the Zebra Blue (Leptotes plinius) and the Common Blue (Polyommatus icarus), utilize this species as a host plant for their larvae.

Plumbago indica (or Plumbago rosea):

Plumbago indica, Plumbago rosea, Red Plumbago
Wiethase, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Plumbago indica (or Plumbago rosea), commonly known as Indianleadwort or red plumbago (or pink plumbago), is from India, so does wonderfully along the Gulf Coast in our hot, humid climate.

In its natural habitat, it thrives in the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, including India and Sri Lanka. This species has adapted to a variety of environments, from open woodlands to rocky hillsides and coastal areas.

The plant itself presents a graceful and compact form, growing up to 3 to 6 feet in height and spreading 3 to 4 feet wide. Its slender branches bear lush, dark green leaves that create an attractive backdrop for the blossoms to come.

When it comes to flowering, this species offers a stunning display of vibrant red or pink clusters. These tubular flowers, measuring about 1 inch in diameter, emerge in abundance throughout the warm months, from spring to fall. The delicate blooms emit a gentle fragrance, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden.

Red plumbago flowers
Vengolis, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Species care details

In terms of hardiness zones, Plumbago indica thrives in zones 9 to 11 within the U.S. It appreciates full sun to partial shade and prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Regular watering is essential for optimal growth and flowering, particularly during dry periods.

The flowering season coincides with the warmer months, providing a refreshing burst of color to gardens and landscapes. Its abundant flowers and compact growth habit make it an excellent choice for borders, hedges, or container gardening.

Plumbago zeylanica

Plumbago zeylanica, Wild Plumbago, Florida Native Plumbago
Bob Peterson from North Palm Beach, Florida, Planet Earth!, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Hailing from tropical regions of Asia, but also native to coastal regions of Florida, Plumbago zeylanica, also known as Ceylon leadwort or wild plumbago, possesses a natural allure. This herbaceous perennial has made its mark in various ecosystems and now finds itself cherished by gardeners in the Gulf Coast region and beyond.

Wild Plumbago is not as showy as the other two species we’ve discussed, but it has the benefit of being a Florida native plant, supporting our unique ecosystems.

It thrives in diverse habitats, including grasslands, open forests, and scrublands. Its adaptability allows it to flourish in a range of soil types, from sandy to clayey compositions.

The plant itself displays a unique growth habit, forming clumps of sprawling, vine-like stems that reach a height of 1 to 3 feet. Its lance-shaped leaves, arranged alternately along the stems, add an attractive touch of green to the landscape.

Plumbago zeylanica showcases clusters of pale blue or white blossoms. These tubular flowers, about 0.5 inch in diameter, bloom throughout the warm months, from spring to fall. The delicate flowers emit a faint, sweet fragrance that entices pollinators, including bees and butterflies.

Native Florida plumbago
Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Species care details

This species typically grows in zones 9 to 11 within the U.S., where it thrives in the warm and humid conditions of the Gulf Coast region. It prefers full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. Regular watering is necessary to maintain its lush foliage and promote healthy growth.

The flowering season coincides with the warmer months, providing a delightful display of pale blue or white flowers. Its sprawling growth habit makes it an excellent choice for ground cover, cascading over walls, or spilling out of containers.

Plumbago zeylanica attracts various pollinators, contributing to the local ecosystem. While specific wildlife interactions may vary, Wild Plumbago is known to support the life cycles of several butterfly species.

Planting Plumbago: Creating a Beautiful Foundation

Blue Plumbago
Ввласенко, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Plumbago brings a touch of tropical splendor to any Gulf Coast garden with its abundant flowers and ease of care. Plumbago is what they call “a doer” in the garden. It delivers nearly year-round and once established, it sets the foundation for a lush tropical landscape.

Choosing a Location to Plant Plumbago:

Selecting the right location for planting is crucial to its growth and overall health. Consider the following factors when choosing a spot:

Sunlight

This species thrives in full sun to partial shade. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth and flowering.

Soil Drainage

Plumbago prefers well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot. Ensure the chosen location has soil that allows water to drain freely.

Space

Consider the mature size of the species you are planting. Allow enough space for the plant to spread and grow without overcrowding other nearby plants.

Step-by-Step Instructions for Planting a Plumbago Plant

Once you have chosen the ideal location, follow these steps to plant Plumbago:

Prepare the soil:

Dig a hole that is wider and slightly deeper than the root ball of the plant.

Loosen the soil in the hole to allow for easy root penetration.

Preparing the plant:

If the plant is in a container, gently remove it by tapping the sides of the container or squeezing the base. Avoid pulling the plant out forcefully to prevent root damage.

If the plant is root-bound, tease out the roots gently to encourage outward growth.

Planting the Plumbago:

Place the plant in the center of the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil.

Backfill the hole with soil, gently pressing it down to eliminate air pockets.

Water the plant thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Mulching:

Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or bark, around the base of the plant. This helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and insulates the roots.

Caring for Plumbago: Nurturing the Tropical Beauty

Plumbago, with its vibrant blooms and lush foliage, requires proper care to thrive and reach its full potential. Let’s delve into the details and discover how to care for these tropical beauties.

Light Requirements

It thrives in full sun to partial shade. It benefits from at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day to promote healthy growth and abundant flowering.

Soil Conditions

Plumbago prefers well-draining soil that retains some moisture but does not become waterlogged. A loamy or sandy soil enriched with organic matter provides an ideal growing medium.

Soil pH:

Plumbago tolerates a wide range of soil pH levels, from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. A pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 is generally suitable for optimal growth.

Climate Preferences

This plant is well-suited for tropical and subtropical climates. It thrives in warm and humid conditions, making it an excellent choice for the Gulf Coast region and similar regions.

Temperature Tolerances

Despite its tropical origins, plumbago is surprisingly hardy.

Optimal Temperature

It thrives in temperatures ranging from 70°F to 90°F (21°C to 32°C).

Temperature Limit for Growth

It may slow down its growth when temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C).

Temperature Causing Damage

Plumbago can suffer damage when exposed to temperatures below 32°F (0°C). Frost or freezing conditions can cause wilting, browning, and leaf drop.

Effects of High Temperatures

It can tolerate high temperatures, but extreme heat, especially when combined with prolonged drought, can lead to stress, wilting, and reduced flowering.

Protection from Cold

In regions with colder winters, provide protection for your plant during freezing temperatures. Mulch around the base of the plant to insulate the roots, and cover the plant with a frost cloth or blanket. If grown in containers, move them to a protected area or indoors during winter.

Elevation Concerns

Plumbago does not have specific elevation concerns and can be grown successfully at various elevations.

Watering Schedule

Water Plumbago regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Adjust the watering schedule based on weather conditions and rainfall. A general guideline is to provide deep watering once or twice a week during the growing season and reduce frequency during cooler months.

Fertilization

Adjust your plumbago’s feeding schedule to the season.

Leafing Out

In early spring when new growth appears, apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Blossoming

As the plant prepares to bloom, switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus to promote flower production. Follow the product recommendations for application rates.

Pre-Winter or Over Winter

In late summer or early fall, apply a balanced fertilizer to support root development and overall plant health before winter dormancy.

Pruning Schedule

Prune in late winter or early spring, before new growth emerges. Follow these steps:

  • Remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches.
  • Prune back about one-third of the plant’s height to promote compactness and encourage new growth.
  • Lightly shape the plant to maintain an appealing form.

Common Pests and Diseases

Plumbago is generally resistant to pests, but it can suffer from disease.

Common Pests

Aphids: Use insecticidal soap or a neem oil-based spray to control aphids. Rinse the plant with water or use a gentle stream to dislodge them.

Whiteflies: Use yellow sticky traps or apply an insecticidal soap or oil spray to manage whiteflies.

Spider mites: Spray the plant with water to remove mites or use an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil for control.

Jack’s Dead Bug is an organic solution that uses a naturally occurring bacteria that has worked well for me for many pest problems.

Common Diseases:

Powdery Mildew: Ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Apply a fungicide labeled for powdery mildew if necessary.

Leaf Spot: Remove and destroy infected leaves. Maintain proper spacing and avoid overhead watering to reduce leaf spot occurrence.

Root Rot: Ensure proper drainage and avoid overwatering. Treat with a fungicide if root rot is detected.

Special Care Considerations

Plumbago may require regular pruning to maintain a compact shape and encourage abundant flowering.

Regularly monitor moisture levels to prevent overwatering or drought stress.

Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and protect the roots.

Provide support, such as a trellis or stakes, if growing a climbing variety of Plumbago.

Propagating Plumbago

Now that you’ve planted your plumbago and it’s growing nicely, you may decide you want more. What’s better than free plants?

Here’s how you do it:

Propagating Plumbago from Cuttings

Taking cuttings and rooting them in a soft, light medium is the easiest way to grow more plumbago from your existing plants.

Select a healthy stem

Choose a non-flowering stem from the parent plant that is free from any diseases or pests.

Prepare the cutting

Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut a 4-6 inch section of the stem just below a node (where leaves emerge).

Remove lower leaves

Remove the lower leaves from the cutting, leaving only a few leaves at the top.
Hormone application (optional): Dip the cut end of the cutting into a rooting hormone powder or gel, following the product instructions.

Plant the cutting

Insert the cut end of the cutting into a well-draining potting mix, ensuring that at least one node is below the soil surface.

I use a 50/50 mix of coconut coir and perlite, which stays moist without going anaerobic.

Provide optimal conditions

Place the pot in a warm, bright location with indirect sunlight. Maintain a consistently moist but not waterlogged soil.

Rooting process

Over the next few weeks, roots should begin to develop. Monitor the soil moisture and mist the cutting occasionally to maintain humidity.

Transplanting

Once the roots have formed, typically within 6-8 weeks, carefully transplant the rooted cutting into a larger container or desired planting location.

Here’s an excellent video showing the process step by step.

Propagating Plumbago from Air Layering:

Air layering is another technique that many use to grow more plants. For many plants, it’s a more reliable way to ensure rooting.

Select a healthy stem

Choose a healthy, non-flowering stem from the parent plant that is flexible and suitable for air layering.

Make a wound

With a sharp knife or pruner, make a 1-inch (2.5 cm) diagonal cut halfway through the stem, just below a node.

Apply rooting hormone (optional)

Apply a rooting hormone powder or gel to the exposed area of the wound to stimulate root development.

Moss and plastic wrap

Moisten sphagnum moss and wrap it around the wounded area. Enclose the moss with plastic wrap, securing it with twine or a rubber band at the top and bottom.

Alternatively, you may want to try air layering pods or propagation balls to ensure the sphagnum stays moist.

Provide moisture and wait

Keep the moss consistently moist by misting or watering as needed. After a few weeks to several months, roots will develop within the moss.

Check for root development

Once roots have formed and are visible through the plastic wrap, carefully cut below the rooted section of the stem.

Plant the new plant

Remove the plastic wrap and moss, and plant the rooted section in a well-draining potting mix or desired planting location.

Provide post-transplant care

Water the newly planted cutting thoroughly and keep it in a warm, bright location with indirect sunlight. Continue to care for it as you would for an established Plumbago plant.

By following these step-by-step instructions for propagating Plumbago from cuttings and air layering, you can expand your collection and share the beauty of these plants with others.

Landscaping with Plumbago

Use Plumbago as a vibrant hedge or border planting. Incorporate it into mixed shrub beds for pops of color.

Plant it near fences, trellises, or pergolas, and train it to climb for vertical interest.

Utilize containers and place Plumbago on patios, decks, or balconies to create a tropical ambiance.

Complementing Plumbago

Combine Plumbago with other colorful flowering plants in butterfly or hummingbird gardens. Here are some ornamental plants that can thrive alongside Plumbago while creating a harmonious and visually appealing landscape:

Native Lantana (Lantana involucrata and Lantana depressa)

Lantana’s colorful clusters of flowers in various shades, including yellow, orange, and pink, complement Plumbago’s blooms. It is also a pollinator magnet, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds.

Pentas (Pentas lanceolata)

Pentas produces clusters of vibrant star-shaped flowers in colors such as red, pink, and white. It attracts pollinators and adds a burst of color alongside Plumbago.

Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha)

Mexican Bush Sage features striking velvety purple or white flower spikes that add vertical interest and contrast to Plumbago’s mounding growth habit. It is also a favorite of hummingbirds.

Duranta (Duranta erecta)

Horologium, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Duranta displays clusters of vibrant blue or purple flowers, adding a complementary color contrast to Plumbago. Its glossy foliage and cascading growth habit make it an excellent choice for borders or hanging baskets.

Dwarf Poinciana (Caesalpinia pulcherrima)

Dwarf Poinciana features striking red, orange, or yellow flowers reminiscent of miniature bird-of-paradise blooms. Its vibrant colors can create a stunning visual impact alongside Plumbago.

Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus are easy-care plants that add another layer of exotic beauty to your garden while enjoying similar growing conditions. They come in a range of vivid colors that will harmonize with plumbago into a stunning tropical display.

These plant suggestions share similar requirements with Plumbago, ensuring harmonious growth and care. When combined, they create an alluring landscape with a diverse range of colors, textures, and forms. Always consider the mature size of each plant and their compatibility in terms of growth habits and maintenance to achieve a well-balanced and cohesive garden design.

Reliable Beauty

With its ease of care, consistent and abundant flowering, and evergreen foliage in mild climates, plumbago is a reliable tropical beauty in the Gulf Coast garden. With a little pampering during the first three years of establishment, plumbago is a visually stunning addition to your garden.

Visit our Etsy shop for Blue Plumbago, Duranta, Pentas, and other perennial flowering plants for your butterfly garden.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Plumbago

Is plumbago easy to grow?

Yes, Plumbago is generally considered an easy-to-grow plant, especially in tropical and subtropical regions, given its tolerance for various soil types, adaptable nature, and relatively low maintenance requirements.

What month does plumbago bloom?

Plumbago typically blooms from late spring to fall, depending on the mildness of your winter.

Do hummingbirds like plumbago?

Yes, hummingbirds are attracted to the tubular flowers of Plumbago and often visit them for nectar, making it a favorite plant for hummingbird enthusiasts.

Which butterflies, months, and other insects like plumbago?

Plumbago attracts various butterflies, including species such as Zebra Blue (Leptotes plinius), Common Blue (Polyommatus icarus), and other pollinators. The specific months of butterfly activity can vary based on the region, but generally, the warmer months from spring to fall are when butterflies are most active around Plumbago. Additionally, bees and other beneficial insects are also attracted to the nectar-rich flowers of Plumbago.

When should you plant plumbago?

Plumbago can be planted in the spring after the last frost date, as it thrives in warm weather. This allows the plant to establish itself and take advantage of the growing season.

Where is the best place to plant plumbago?

The best place to plant Plumbago is in a location that receives full sun to partial shade.

How do you keep plumbago blooming?

To keep Plumbago blooming, provide it with full sun to partial shade, regular watering, well-draining soil, and regular fertilization with a bloom-boosting fertilizer.

When should you prune plumbago?

Plumbago should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges. This timing allows for rejuvenation, shaping, and stimulating new growth for the upcoming growing season.

Does plumbago come back every year?

Yes, Plumbago is a perennial plant that typically comes back every year in suitable growing conditions. It is an evergreen in subtropical and tropical climates.

How do you winterize blue plumbago?

To winterize blue Plumbago, provide a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to insulate the roots, and cover the plant with a frost cloth or blanket during freezing temperatures.

Should you cut back plumbago?

Yes, it is beneficial to cut back Plumbago in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges. Pruning helps maintain a compact shape, encourages new growth, and stimulates abundant flowering. You can also cut it back during summer if it overgrows its allotted space.

How do you make plumbago bushy?

To make Plumbago bushy, prune it back by about one-third of its height in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This encourages branching and promotes a more compact, bushy growth habit.

What other ornamental plants pair well with plumbago?

Several ornamental plants pair well with Plumbago to create a visually appealing garden. Some suitable companions include Lantana, Pentas, Mexican Bush Sage, Duranta, Dwarf Poinciana, and other flowering perennials that share similar soil, light, and water requirements.

How big does plumbago get?

Plumbago can reach an average height of 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 meters) and have a spread of 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters), depending on the specific species and growing conditions.

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What Every Southern Gardener Needs to Know About Tropical Hibiscus

tropical hibiscus care for Florida gardens

Tropical Hibiscus has to be the Hail Mary throw for any Florida gardener. These beautiful flowering shrubs are so easy to grow in our climate that cultivating a variety is a no-brainer. Tropical hibiscus care is simple and straightforward, and the amount of bloom you get for your buck (and effort) is simply incredible.

There seem to be an endless number of tropical hibiscus varieties, including some extravagantly flamboyant hybrids. Unfortunately, there are also a lot of scams floating around. If you seed tropical hibiscus for sale promising impossible-in-nature colors, it may be a complete scam.

If you live in the Southeastern U.S., specifically around the hot and humid Gulf Coast, you may have seen tropical hibiscus for sale and been tempted to purchase plants. Perhaps you thought they were fussy. They’re so pretty, they must be a pain to care for, right? Turns out, they’re not. They’re dead easy, and these showy exotics turn even the most mundane suburban spread into a tropical paradise.

Tropical Origins

Tropical hibiscus with single red flowers

Tropical hibiscus, or Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, is believed to have originated in China, particularly in the southern regions. It’s also native to India, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, and the Philippines, along with the Pacific Islands, like Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, and Hawai’i.

Over the years, these beautiful plants have spread to other tropical climates in Africa, Australia, Central and South America, and the Caribbean. In these tropical regions, the hibiscus thrives in rainforests and coastal areas.

In Hawai’i, tropical hibiscus is part of native culture, making up the iconic lei garlands worn on special occasions. These blooms are worn in the hair, are used in floral displays, and signify beauty. Tropical hibiscus is also used medicinally and as offerings in spiritual ceremonies.

The tropical hibiscus embodies the spirit of “aloha’ – love, compassion, and hospitality.

How can you fail to fall in love with that?

I always like to joke that I don’t live in the Southern U.S., I live in the North Caribbean, so tropical hibiscus is one of the first ornamentals I added to our landscape.

Tropical hibiscus is a woody shrub that can reach a height of 6 to 10 feet tall, with a spread of 4 to 6 feet. The foliage is glossy and dark green, creating an attractive backdrop for its stunning flowers.

Tropical Hibiscus Flowers

Pink Tropical hibiscus flower

These evergreen plants produce large, showy blooms in a wide range of tropical hibiscus colors, including red, orange, pink, yellow, and white. These flowers can reach diameters of 4 to 8 inches and exhibit a striking trumpet-like shape. The nectar-rich flowers of tropical hibiscus attract hummingbirds and butterflies, enhancing the beauty and biodiversity of any garden.

Tropical hibiscus can be classified into two main types: singles and doubles.

Singles

Single tropical hibiscus flowers have a single row of petals, creating a striking focal point. They often feature a prominent stamen in the center. Some popular tropical hibiscus varieties feature vivid colors of red, yellow, pink, orange, and even white.

Doubles

Double tropical hibiscus flowers have multiple rows of petals, creating a fuller and more ruffled appearance. These varieties are known for their lush and showy blooms. Many of your favorite tropical hibiscus colors have a double version, as well.

In addition to these main color categories, tropical hibiscus cultivars can exhibit variations and combinations of colors, including blends, streaks, and bicolor patterns. This diverse range of tropical hibiscus colors and petal forms allows for endless possibilities in creating captivating displays and adding vibrant beauty to tropical gardens and landscapes.

Some hybrid “fancy” cultivars are even more exotic-looking, include maroon and purple and even blue. You’ll find electric pink and purple blooms, like ‘Voodoo Queen.’ Some don’t even look real, and I suspect a bit of photoshopping is going on.

Wildlife Magnets

Hummingbird visiting a red tropical hibiscus flower

Tropical hibiscus attracts various pollinators and other wildlife:

Bees

Various species of bees are attracted to the nectar-rich flowers of tropical hibiscus. This includes honeybees, bumblebees, and native solitary bees such as carpenter bees, mason bees, metallic green sweat, and mining bees.

Butterflies

Several butterfly species are drawn to the vibrant colors and nectar of hibiscus flowers. This includes swallowtails, admirals, painted ladies, and hairstreaks.

Our Florida state butterfly, the Zebra Longwing, also seems to love dive-bombing the tropical hibiscus blooms.

Florida White Butterflies with their distinctive black markings are commonly found visiting hibiscus flowers for nectar.

Hummingbirds

These small, agile birds are highly attracted to the tubular-shaped flowers of tropical hibiscus. Their long, slender beaks are perfectly adapted for sipping nectar from deep within the flower.

Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are known to visit hibiscus flowers for their nectar, especially during their migration and breeding season in Florida.

Other Wildlife

While not directly interacting with the flowers, anole lizards are often seen snoozing in hibiscus plants at night.

The flowers can also make a meal for iguanas and turtles enjoy munching on the foliage. I’ve also seen squirrels enjoying a blossom or two.

Creating a wildlife-friendly garden with tropical hibiscus can help support and attract a diverse range of critters, contributing to the overall health of the ecosystem.

Optimal Growing Conditions for Tropical Hibiscus

Pink and yellow tropical hibiscus flower

Tropical hibiscus thrives in warm and humid climates and is commonly found in tropical rainforests and coastal areas, where it enjoys the protection of tree canopies and the moist, well-drained soils prevalent in these habitats.

Light Requirements

Tropical hibiscus thrives in full sun to partial shade. It requires at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily to promote robust growth and abundant flowering.

Soil Type

Well-draining soil is essential for tropical hibiscus. A rich, loamy soil mixed with organic matter provides the ideal growing medium. Avoid heavy clay soils that can lead to waterlogged conditions.

Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) generally prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil conditions. While they are not considered strict acid-loving plants like azaleas or blueberries, they can benefit from a slightly acidic soil pH in the range of 6.0 to 6.8.

Climate

Tropical hibiscus thrives in warm and humid climates. It requires consistently warm temperatures above 60°F, preferably over 80°F during the growing season for optimal growth and flowering.

Elevation

Elevation is generally not a significant concern for tropical hibiscus unless you are growing it in high-altitude regions where temperatures can drop significantly.

Tropical Hibiscus Cold Tolerance

Tropical hibiscus temperature tolerance can be a factor in USDA Zones 8 and above. Growth may slow or cease below 50°F, and temperatures near or below freezing can cause severe damage or even death to the plant.

Tropical hibiscus is not frost-tolerant and is typically grown as a container plant in regions with colder climates.

Here on the Gulf Coast, they’re a garden staple in the landscape. They’re best suited for USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11. You can probably even baby them in Zone 8 with adequate frost blankets.

Protecting from Cold: During colder months, it is crucial to protect tropical hibiscus from freezing temperatures. Move container-grown plants indoors or provide adequate insulation for in-ground specimens. Use frost cloth or blankets to cover plants and provide additional heat sources like Christmas lights for added protection.

Planting Tropical Hibiscus in the Ground

Select a suitable location. Choose a spot in your garden that receives full sun for at least six hours a day. Tropical hibiscus thrives in warm, sunny conditions.

Prepare the soil

Ensure the soil is well-draining and enriched with organic matter. Hibiscus prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to improve its fertility and drainage.

Dig the planting hole

Dig a hole that is slightly wider and deeper than the root ball of the hibiscus shrub. The hole should be large enough to accommodate the roots comfortably.

Remove the hibiscus from its container

Gently tap or squeeze the sides of the container to loosen the root ball. Carefully slide the hibiscus out of the container, taking care not to damage the roots.

Place the hibiscus in the hole

Position the hibiscus in the center of the hole, ensuring that it sits at the same depth as it was in the container. The top of the root ball should be level with the soil surface.

Add Amendments

For the best start, add an organic fertilizer in the planting hole that contains mycorrhizal fungi to improve nutrient uptake and root health. Compost is also another great soil amendment that adds richness to mediocre soils.

Backfill the hole

Fill the hole with the excavated soil, gently firming it around the roots as you go. Ensure there are no air pockets around the roots.

Water thoroughly

After planting, water the hibiscus thoroughly to settle the soil and hydrate the plant. Provide enough water to moisten the entire root ball as well as the soil around it.

Mulch around the plant

Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, around the base of the hibiscus. This will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

First year care

Regularly water the hibiscus, keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Water deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry.

Care of Tropical Hibiscus

White tropical hibiscus flower

Following these steps will help ensure a successful planting of your tropical hibiscus shrub. Remember to provide regular care, including watering, fertilizing, and proper maintenance, to keep your hibiscus healthy and thriving.

Watering Schedule

Tropical hibiscus prefers regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry and adjust watering frequency based on environmental conditions.

Fertilizer Composition

Provide tropical hibiscus with a balanced fertilizer, such as a slow-release granular formula with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. Feed every four to six weeks during the growing season, reducing or stopping fertilization during winter dormancy.

Horticulturists often recommend specific macronutrients and micronutrients for the optimal production of tropical hibiscus. Here are the essential nutrients that are typically recommended.

Macronutrients

Nitrogen (N) is essential for promoting leafy growth and overall plant vigor. It is particularly important during the active growth stages of tropical hibiscus.

Phosphorus (P) plays a crucial role in root development, flowering, and fruit production. It helps promote strong root systems and enhances flower and fruit formation.

Potassium (K) is vital for overall plant health, disease resistance, and flower quality. It aids in the regulation of water movement within the plant and supports the development of strong stems and roots.

Micronutrients

Iron (Fe) is necessary for chlorophyll synthesis and plays a key role in photosynthesis. It is important for maintaining healthy foliage and preventing yellowing of leaves (chlorosis).

Magnesium (Mg) is an essential component of chlorophyll and is critical for photosynthesis. It supports energy production and enzyme activation within the plant.

Zinc (Zn) is involved in various enzymatic processes and plays a role in hormone regulation, protein synthesis, and carbohydrate metabolism. It is essential for overall plant growth and development.

Manganese (Mn) is necessary for chlorophyll production and is involved in enzyme activation. It contributes to photosynthesis, nitrogen metabolism, and carbohydrate synthesis.

Copper (Cu) is required for various enzymatic reactions and is involved in plant respiration, photosynthesis, and lignin synthesis. It aids in overall plant growth and development.

It’s important to note that the specific nutrient requirements may vary depending on factors such as soil composition, growing conditions, and plant health. Conducting a soil test and consulting with your ag extension service can provide more precise nutrient recommendations tailored to your specific growing environment and goals.

Specialized Tropical Hibiscus Fertilizer

Fertilizers formulated specifically for tropical hibiscus, often labeled as “Hibiscus Fertilizer” or “Tropical Plant Fertilizer,” are available in the market and are formulated to meet the specific nutrient needs of these plants.

Fertilizing tropical hibiscus with acid-loving plant fertilizers can be beneficial if the soil pH is alkaline or if you are aiming to lower the pH slightly. Acid-loving fertilizers typically contain higher amounts of sulfur, which helps lower soil pH.

These fertilizers may also include additional nutrients that are beneficial for acid-loving plants, such as iron and manganese.

If you notice signs of nutrient deficiency or if your soil pH is consistently high, using an acid-loving plant fertilizer can help provide the necessary nutrients while also slightly adjusting the soil pH.

However, it’s important to note that tropical hibiscus can also thrive in slightly alkaline soils as long as the necessary nutrients are available.

Before applying any fertilizer, it’s recommended to conduct a soil test to determine the pH and nutrient levels of your soil.

Pruning Your Tropical Hibiscus

While tropical hibiscus is a low-care plant, it does require some pruning to make it look its best. You’ll want to prune in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges. You may also want to prune during the growing season to prevent it from becoming overgrown and leggy.

Pruning During the Growing Season.

You can prune your hibiscus back any time during the growing season as required to maintain its shape.

Timing

During the growing season, you can prune your tropical hibiscus every 4-6 weeks to maintain its size and shape. Start pruning when new growth is about 6 inches long.

Tools

Gather a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or scissors. Ensure the tools are sanitized to prevent the spread of diseases.

Assess the Plant

Examine the hibiscus plant and identify branches that are growing too vigorously or extending beyond the desired size or shape.

Determine the Pruning Length

Decide on the amount you want to prune to control the size of the plant. Aim to remove around one-third of the branch’s length.

Prune Vigorous Branches

Locate the node or leaf joint where you want to make the cut. Position the pruning shears just above the node and make a clean, angled cut. Cutting above a node encourages new growth from that point.

Control Branch Length

To prevent the hibiscus from becoming too leggy, prune the branches to a desirable length. Identify branches that have grown excessively long or are crowding other parts of the plant, and trim them back to a suitable length, just above a node.

Remove Suckers

Suckers are new shoots that emerge from the base of the plant. They can divert energy from the main growth. Remove these suckers by pruning them at the base.

Regular Maintenance

Throughout the growing season, continue to monitor the growth of your hibiscus. As new growth appears, repeat the pruning process, removing any excessive or unwanted branches to maintain the desired size and shape.

Clean Up

After pruning, remove any fallen leaves or debris from the base of the plant to maintain a tidy and healthy growing environment.

Aftercare

Following pruning, provide your tropical hibiscus with water and fertilizer to support healthy regrowth.

By following these step-by-step instructions and regularly pruning your tropical hibiscus during the growing season, you can effectively manage its size, prevent excessive growth, and maintain the desired shape of the plant.

Remember to adjust the frequency and intensity of pruning based on the growth rate and specific needs of your hibiscus variety.

Annual Winter Pruning for Tropical Hibiscus

Double tropical hibiscus flower

Late winter or early spring is the perfect time to prune your hibiscus to remove any dead or diseased branches. This step is critical for maintaining the health of your plant.

Timing

Prune your tropical hibiscus just before it breaks dormancy, typically in late winter or early spring. This allows new growth to emerge on a well-shaped plant.

Assessment

Examine the plant for dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Look for crossing or rubbing branches that can impede airflow and create wounds.

Sterilization

Clean and sterilize your pruning tools before use. Dip the blades in disinfectant spray or wipe them down with rubbing alcohol to prevent the spread of diseases.

Thinning

Thin out overcrowded branches by selectively removing some of the older or weaker stems. Aim for an open and balanced growth habit.

Size control

If necessary, trim back the overall size of the plant to maintain a desirable shape or control its height. Cut back the branches to the desired length, just above a set of healthy leaves.

Pruning cuts

Make clean, angled cuts above leaf nodes or buds, ensuring the remaining branches face outward to encourage outward growth.

Clean-up

Remove all the pruned branches and debris from the area around the plant. This helps prevent the spread of pests and diseases.

Aftercare

After pruning, provide regular care to support new growth. Water the plant appropriately, ensure it receives adequate sunlight, and follow up with a spring feeding once new growth emerges.

Tropical Hibiscus Propagation

There are a few different methods you can use for tropical hibiscus propagation: stem cuttings, air layering, or seed propagation. Stem cuttings are the most common and easiest method.

Prepare the Cuttings

Select a healthy and mature branch of the tropical hibiscus plant. Using clean and sharp pruning shears, cut a 4-6 inch section of the stem just below a leaf node (where leaves emerge). Remove any leaves from the lower half of the cutting.

Hormone Application (Optional)

To enhance root development during tropical hibiscus propagation, you can apply a rooting hormone to the base of the cutting according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This step is optional but can increase the success rate.

Planting the Cutting

Prepare a small pot with a well-draining potting mix. Make a hole in the soil using a pencil or your finger and insert the cutting about 1-2 inches deep into the soil. Firmly press the soil around the cutting to secure it.

Provide Ideal Conditions

Place the pot in a warm and bright location with indirect sunlight. Maintain a consistent temperature between 70-80°F (21-27°C). Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You can cover the pot with a plastic bag or place it in a propagation tray to create a humid environment.

Root Development

Over the next several weeks, the cutting will develop roots. Check the soil moisture regularly and mist the leaves if necessary to maintain humidity. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the cutting.

Transplanting

Once the cutting has developed a healthy root system, usually after 6-8 weeks, you can transplant it into a larger pot or into the garden if the conditions are suitable. Ensure the soil is well-draining and provide adequate watering and care as the plant establishes itself.

Note: Tropical hibiscus propagation from seed is also possible but requires more time and effort. It’s an approach for expert gardeners. It involves harvesting and germinating the seeds, followed by nurturing the seedlings until they are ready for transplanting.

Winter Care for Tropical Hibiscus

Protecting tropical hibiscus during the winter is crucial in regions where temperatures drop below their cold tolerance. Here are some steps to help safeguard your plants:

Timing

Begin winter protection measures when temperatures consistently fall below 50°F (10°C) or when frost is expected.

Pruning

Before the first frost, consider pruning your tropical hibiscus to a manageable size. Remove any dead or diseased branches and aim for a compact shape.

Mulching

Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant, such as straw or wood chips. This helps insulate the roots and retain moisture.

Covering

Use frost blankets, burlap, or old bedsheets to cover the entire plant during extremely cold nights. Secure the cover loosely to allow for airflow and prevent moisture buildup.

Remove the cover as soon as possible after sunrise. If temperatures are expected to drop for several nights in a row, you can leave the covers on.

Container plants

If your hibiscus is in a container, move it to a protected area like a garage or basement. Ensure the plant receives adequate light and water sparingly to prevent root rot.

Watering

During winter, reduce watering frequency to avoid waterlogged soil. Only water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

If the cold snap will be brief, water the day before the overnight temperatures drop. Water early enough to allow the day’s sunlight to heat the root zone. This will help keep the soil around the plant warmer overnight.

However, this technique is not suitable for longer cold spells. If you are expecting several nights of cold weather, don’t water until the weather warms enough to remove the coverings.

Temperature monitoring

Keep an eye on weather forecasts and be prepared to provide additional protection if unexpected cold snaps occur.

By implementing these measures, you can help protect your tropical hibiscus from winter damage and promote its health for the following growing season.

Tropical Hibiscus Pests and Diseases

Keep an eye out for common pests like aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies. Treat any infestations promptly using appropriate organic or chemical controls. Monitor for signs of diseases like leaf spot or powdery mildew and take necessary steps to address them.

Common Pests

Common pests affecting tropical hibiscus include aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and mealybugs. Regularly inspect the plant for signs of infestation.

Here’s some guidance on identifying common insect pests that can infest tropical hibiscus:

Aphids

Look for clusters of small, soft-bodied insects on the undersides of leaves, flower buds, or stems.

Aphids can be green, black, brown, or other colors, depending on the species.

They often leave behind a sticky residue called honeydew, which can attract ants and promote the growth of sooty mold.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are tiny, white or pale yellow insects that resemble small moths. They can be found on the undersides of leaves, typically in large numbers. When disturbed, whiteflies will fly up in a cloud of tiny insects.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are very small and may appear as tiny dots on the leaves. Look for fine webbing on the undersides of leaves, especially in cases of severe infestation. Spider mites can cause stippling or yellowing of the foliage.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are soft-bodied insects covered in a white, cottony, waxy substance. They tend to congregate in protected areas, such as leaf axils, leaf undersides, and stem joints. Look for cottony masses and sticky residue on the plant surface.

Oleander caterpillars

Oleander caterpillars are vibrant and distinctive in appearance. They have a black body with bright orange or red stripes running along their length. The caterpillars have a slightly hairy or spiky texture.

When inspecting your hibiscus for pests, be sure to examine the undersides of leaves, as many pests prefer to hide in those areas. Additionally, closely monitor the overall health of your plant for signs of wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth, as these can be indicators of a pest infestation.

Pest Remedy

Control pests by spraying the plant with an appropriate insecticide, focusing on the undersides of leaves where pests often congregate. Follow the product instructions and repeat applications as necessary.

Common Diseases

Tropical hibiscus can be susceptible to diseases such as leaf spot, root rot, and powdery mildew. Ensure proper watering practices, good air circulation, and avoid overhead watering to minimize disease incidence.

Leaf Spot

Leaf spot is a common fungal disease that affects tropical hibiscus. Look for circular or irregularly shaped spots on the leaves, usually with defined margins. The spots can vary in color, ranging from brown, black, or yellow to dark purple.

As the disease progresses, the spots may enlarge and merge, leading to the yellowing and defoliation of affected leaves.

Root Rot

Root rot is a fungal disease caused by overwatering, poor drainage, or soilborne pathogens. Observe the plant for signs of wilting or yellowing leaves that don’t respond to watering.

Gently remove the plant from the pot or dig around the root zone to inspect the roots. Healthy roots should appear white or off-white, while rotting roots may appear brown, mushy, or have a foul odor.

Severely affected plants may exhibit stunted growth and eventually die.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease characterized by a white or grayish powdery growth on the foliage. Look for a fine, talcum-like coating on the upper surfaces of leaves, stems, and even flowers.

Affected leaves may become distorted, curl, or drop prematurely. In severe cases, the powdery growth can cover a significant portion of the plant, inhibiting photosynthesis and weakening its overall health.

When identifying these diseases, careful observation of the plant’s symptoms and characteristics is essential. If you suspect any of these diseases, it is recommended to take appropriate measures for prevention, treatment, and control to minimize their impact on your tropical hibiscus.

Disease Remedy

To combat diseases, remove and dispose of affected plant material, improve air circulation, and apply appropriate fungicides as recommended by a local garden center or professional.

Special Needs or Care

Tropical hibiscus benefits from regular grooming to remove spent flowers and encourage continuous blooming. Additionally, the plant may require occasional staking or support as it grows taller to maintain an upright habit.

Yellow Leaves Troubleshooting

Several factors can contribute to yellowing leaves in tropical hibiscus. Here are some common causes:

Overwatering

Excessive watering can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot, resulting in yellowing leaves. Ensure proper drainage and avoid overwatering the plant.

Underwatering

On the other hand, if the plant is not receiving enough water, the leaves may turn yellow and wilt. Check the soil moisture regularly and water the plant when the top inch of soil feels dry.

Nutrient Deficiencies

Yellowing leaves can be a sign of nutrient deficiencies, such as iron or nitrogen. A lack of essential nutrients can affect the plant’s ability to photosynthesize and maintain healthy foliage. Fertilize the plant with a balanced fertilizer formulated for tropical plants to ensure it receives adequate nutrients.

Environmental Stress

Tropical hibiscus is sensitive to environmental changes. Exposure to cold temperatures, drafts, or sudden temperature fluctuations can cause leaves to yellow and drop. Ensure the plant is placed in an appropriate location with stable temperatures.

Pests and Diseases

Infestations of pests like aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites, as well as diseases like leaf spot or powdery mildew, can cause yellowing leaves. Inspect the plant regularly for any signs of pests or diseases and take appropriate measures for control.

Natural Leaf Shedding

It is normal for tropical hibiscus to shed older leaves as part of their natural growth cycle. If the yellowing is limited to older leaves at the bottom of the plant, it may be a natural process.

By identifying the specific cause of yellowing leaves, you can take appropriate steps to address the issue and promote healthy foliage growth in your tropical hibiscus.

Landscaping Design Ideas for Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus adds a vibrant and tropical touch to any landscape. Plant it as a focal point in garden beds, mix it with other tropical plants for a lush oasis, or grow it in containers to add color to patios and balconies.

Create tropical-themed gardens by combining tropical hibiscus with companion plants such as palms, bird of paradise, or ginger lilies for a stunning display of foliage and flowers.

Companion Plants for Tropical Hibiscus

The following plants have similar water, sunlight, and soil requirements as tropical hibiscus, so should be suitable for companion planting in your landscape.

Flowering Plants

  • Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)
  • Ixora (Ixora spp.)
  • Plumeria (Plumeria spp.)
  • Ti Plant (Cordyline fruticosa)
  • Firebush (Hamelia patens)

Flowering Bulbs:

  • Canna Lily (Canna spp.)
  • Ginger Lily (Hedychium spp.)
  • Blood Lily (Haemanthus spp.)
  • Amazon Lily (Eucharis spp.)
  • Spider Lily (Hymenocallis spp.)

Perennial Flowering Shrubs

  • Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.)
  • Mandevilla (Mandevilla spp.)
  • Plumbago (Plumbago auriculata)
  • Mexican Petunia (Ruellia brittoniana)
  • Shrimp Plant (Justicia brandegeana)

Creating a Tropical Paradise with Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a captivating and vibrant plant native to warm tropical regions. Its glossy foliage and large, showy flowers make it a delightful addition to gardens and landscapes.

By providing the right growing conditions, including adequate sunlight, well-drained soil, and protection from cold temperatures, you can enjoy the beauty of tropical hibiscus throughout the year.

Remember to care for your plant by regular watering, appropriate fertilization, and addressing any pests or diseases promptly. With proper care, tropical hibiscus will reward you with its stunning blooms and bring a touch of the tropics to your garden.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Tropical Hibiscus

How tall do tropical hibiscus get?

Tropical hibiscus can grow anywhere from 3 to 10 feet tall, depending on the specific variety and growing conditions. Compact varieties are more suitable for containers or smaller spaces and may stay around 3 to 4 feet tall, while larger varieties can reach heights of 6 to 10 feet.

What is the lowest temperature for tropical hibiscus?

Tropical hibiscus is generally not tolerant of freezing temperatures. Prolonged exposure to temperatures below 28°F for several hours or more is likely to cause severe damage or kill the plant.

What is the tropical hibiscus growth rate?

The growth rate of tropical hibiscus can range from 6 to 12 inches in height per year during the peak growing season.

Is tropical hibiscus annual or perennial?

Tropical hibiscus is a perennial plant in its native tropical and subtropical regions where it can thrive year-round. However, in areas with cold winters, tropical hibiscus is often grown as an annual or treated as a tender perennial.

What are the signs of tropical hibiscus frost damage?

Frost damage on a tropical hibiscus plant typically manifests as wilting, browning, or blackening of the foliage and stems. The leaves may become limp and appear water-soaked. In severe cases, the plant may exhibit leaf drop or defoliation.

Do tropical hibiscus come back every year?

No, tropical hibiscus will not grow back after a cold winter in temperate climates. However, in frost-free regions or with proper protection, it may survive and continue to grow year-round.

What is the cause if my tropical hibiscus lost all leaves?

There can be several possible causes for a tropical hibiscus plant losing all its leaves. It could be due to environmental stressors such as cold temperatures, frost damage, or excessive exposure to direct sunlight. Overwatering or underwatering can also lead to leaf drop.

Can you grow tropical hibiscus from seed?

Yes, you can grow a tropical hibiscus from seed. However, it’s important to note that tropical hibiscus seeds can be a bit challenging to germinate and require specific conditions for successful growth.

What is the difference between tropical hibiscus vs hardy hibiscus?

Tropical hibiscus thrives in warm, tropical or subtropical climates and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures, while hardy hibiscus is adapted to colder regions and can withstand freezing temperatures.

Is tropical hibiscus tea safe to drink? Is tropical hibiscus what they use to make tea?

Yes, tropical hibiscus, specifically Hibiscus sabdariffa, is the variety commonly used to make herbal tea known as hibiscus tea or roselle tea. The calyces (the fleshy covering around the seed pod) of the Hibiscus sabdariffa plant are harvested and used to make the tea.

Do hibiscus grow better in pots or ground?

Hibiscus can thrive both in pots and in the ground, but each option has its considerations. When grown in pots, hibiscus plants offer the advantage of portability, allowing you to move them indoors during colder months or place them in optimal locations for sunlight. Potted hibiscus may require more frequent watering and fertilization due to limited soil volume.

How hot is too hot for hibiscus?

The optimal temperature range for hibiscus is typically between 60°F (15°C) and 90°F (32°C). When temperatures consistently exceed 90°F (32°C), hibiscus may experience reduced growth, wilting, leaf drop, and flower damage. High heat combined with intense sunlight can also lead to sunburn on the leaves.

How do you keep hibiscus blooming?

Ensure your tropical hibiscus receives consistent moisture. Feed your tropical hibiscus plant with a water-soluble bloom booster for acid-loving plants. Then work in some slow-release fertilizer formulated for flowering plants around the root zone and apply a layer of organic mulch to help retain moisture. Deadheading regularly will encourage the development of new buds.

Where can I find tropical hibiscus plants for sale?

Our nursery carries tropical hibiscus for sale and can ship them conveniently to your home. Visit our shop at: https://southerngarden.net/shop/

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Learn How to Grow Bananas in Florida

Grow Bananas in Florida

If you’re a Florida gardener dreaming of growing your own tropical fruit paradise, look no further than the magnificent banana plant. With their lush foliage and delicious fruit, bananas can thrive in Florida’s subtropical climate. Let’s explore the best varieties suited for each zone, share valuable tips on growing conditions, soil requirements, and planting times, and find out more about how to grow bananas in Florida.

Ornamental vs. Edible Bananas

Before we delve into the specifics, it’s important to distinguish between ornamental and edible bananas. While both types offer stunning foliage, ornamental varieties produce inedible or barely edible fruit. To truly enjoy the flavor and sweetness of homegrown bananas, opt for edible varieties specifically bred for fruit production.

It’s important to note that while these ornamental varieties add visual interest to gardens, their fruit is either inedible or of very poor quality. Therefore, for those looking to grow bananas for their delicious fruit, it’s essential to select edible banana varieties specifically bred for fruit production.

Here are some varieties to avoid if you’re hoping for a harvest:

  1. Musa ornata: Known for its vibrant pink inflorescence and attractive dark green leaves with red midribs, this ornamental banana adds a touch of tropical beauty to gardens.
  2. Musa velutina: Also called the Pink Banana, this variety showcases stunning pink fruits and velvety pink bracts. It’s a favorite among collectors for its ornamental appeal.
  3. Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’: While technically a close relative of the banana, this ornamental variety, commonly known as the Red Abyssinian Banana, is primarily grown for its striking red foliage.
  4. Musa sikkimensis ‘Red Tiger’: This ornamental banana boasts maroon-red leaves with prominent green stripes, creating a visually captivating display in gardens and landscapes.

Best Banana Varieties to Grow in Florida

Growing bananas successfully in Florida requires selecting suitable varieties for each USDA zone. Let’s explore some of the top banana types known to thrive in the Sunshine State:

North Florida / Zone 8:

  1. ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata): This compact variety grows well in containers, making it ideal for Zone 8 gardens. It produces tasty, medium-sized bananas with a pleasant flavor profile.

Central Florida / Zone 9:

  1. Goldfinger Banana (FHIA-01): Resistant to Panama disease, this variety excels in Zone 9. Its creamy fruit has a sweet flavor reminiscent of dessert bananas.
  2. Lady Finger Banana (Musa acuminata ‘Lady Finger‘): Thriving in Zone 9, these slender, aromatic bananas offer a delicate and sweet taste.

South Florida / Zone 10:

  1. Mona Lisa Banana (FHIA-2): Perfect for Zone 10, this variety produces large bunches of sweet, aromatic bananas. It offers excellent disease resistance and handles Florida’s hot climate well.
  2. Honey Banana (Musa johnsii): Well-suited for Zone 10, this unique banana variety features a honey-like flavor and attractive red-purple skin when ripe.

Choosing Banana Plants for Your Florida Garden

I don’t know about you, but when they’re small, all bananas pretty much look the same to me. It’s always a good idea to choose the variety carefully, so look for the label when you’re at your local nursery. If you don’t see one, ask someone. You really don’t want to end up with an ornamental type when you’re hoping to be making home-grown banana bread someday.

Dwarf Cavendish

‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata) is a popular banana variety renowned for its compact size and delectable fruit. This cultivar typically reaches a height of around 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, making it an excellent choice for smaller gardens or container cultivation.

The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ features broad, lush green leaves that create a tropical ambiance wherever it grows. This variety takes approximately 2 to 3 years to reach maturity and begin flowering, producing pendulous clusters of creamy yellow fruit.

The fruit of the ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ is medium-sized, with a smooth, thin skin that turns yellow when ripe. Its flavor is delightfully sweet, often described as having a subtle and creamy banana taste with hints of tropical notes.

When fully ripened, the ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ offers a luscious and satisfying eating experience, making it a favorite choice for banana enthusiasts.

Goldfinger

The Goldfinger Banana (FHIA-01) is a remarkable banana variety known for its resistance to several diseases, making it an excellent choice for growers. This hybrid cultivar combines the genetics of the wild banana (Musa balbisiana) and the Dwarf Cavendish (Musa acuminata).

At maturity, the Goldfinger Banana typically reaches a height of 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3 meters) with a spread of about 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 meters). It exhibits sturdy and upright growth habits, producing large, attractive leaves with green foliage. The Goldfinger Banana matures in approximately 9 to 12 months and starts flowering when it reaches about 7 feet (2.1 meters) in height.

The fruit it bears is elongated and has a vibrant yellow skin when fully ripe. The flavor profile of the Goldfinger Banana is exquisite, with a rich and sweet taste complemented by hints of tropical flavors.

Its firm and creamy texture enhances the overall culinary experience, making it a highly desirable choice for both fresh consumption and culinary uses.

You may not be about to grow bananas in Florida quite this big unless you're in the Keys

Lady Finger

The Lady Finger Banana (Musa acuminata ‘Lady Finger‘) is a distinguished banana variety appreciated for its petite size and delectable fruit. Also known as “Sucrier” or “Sugar Banana,” this cultivar is treasured for its sweetness and fine texture.

The Lady Finger Banana typically grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 3 to 5 feet (0.9 to 1.5 meters). It displays an upright growth habit, producing slender leaves that add an elegant touch to any garden. This variety takes around 12 to 16 months to reach maturity and begin flowering.

The fruit of the Lady Finger Banana is small and cylindrical, with a thin golden-yellow skin when fully ripe. Its flesh is creamy and tender, offering a delectable balance of sweetness and subtle tanginess.

The Lady Finger Banana is often praised for its dessert-like flavor, reminiscent of vanilla and honey. Its petite size and exceptional taste make it a favorite choice for enjoying fresh or incorporating into various culinary creations.

Mona Lisa

The Mona Lisa Banana (FHIA-2) is a captivating banana variety that stands out for its exceptional flavor and ornamental features. This hybrid cultivar, bred from the Honduran Foundation for Agricultural Research (FHIA), offers both aesthetic appeal and delectable fruit.

The Mona Lisa Banana grows to a height of about 10 to 12 feet (3 to 3.6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 1.8 meters). It showcases large, lush green leaves that create a tropical ambiance in any garden. This variety typically takes around 12 to 14 months to reach maturity and start flowering.

The fruit of the Mona Lisa Banana is medium-sized, with a slightly curved shape and a vibrant yellow color when ripe. Its flavor profile is highly regarded, characterized by a rich, sweet taste with hints of caramel and hints of citrus. The fruit’s creamy texture further enhances the eating experience.

The Mona Lisa Banana excels as a dessert banana due to its delectable flavor and also adds an aesthetic appeal to landscapes and gardens with its lush foliage and graceful presence.

Honey Bananas

Honey Banana (Musa johnsii) is a unique and lesser-known banana variety that offers a delightful taste and distinctive characteristics. This species is highly regarded for its exceptional sweetness, earning its name “Honey Banana.”

The Honey Banana plant reaches a height of about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, with a spread of around 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 meters). It displays a compact growth habit, making it suitable for smaller gardens or container cultivation. The time it takes for Honey Bananas to reach maturity and start flowering is approximately 12 to 14 months.

The fruit of the Honey Banana is medium-sized with a slender shape and a bright yellow skin when fully ripe. Its flavor is the highlight, characterized by an intense sweetness reminiscent of honey, along with subtle floral notes. The Honey Banana’s velvety smooth texture adds to the overall eating experience.

While not as widely known as some other banana varieties, the Honey Banana surprises with its unique flavor profile, making it a delightful choice for those seeking a distinct and sweet tropical treat.

Blue Java

The Blue Java banana (Musa acuminata × balbisiana ‘Blue Java’) is a fascinating and sought-after banana variety, renowned for its unusual blue-green coloration and distinctive flavor. This cultivar, often referred to as the “Ice Cream Banana,” offers a unique combination of visual appeal and delectable taste.

The Blue Java banana plant reaches a height of 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters). It displays a robust growth habit, with large, sturdy leaves that create a lush tropical atmosphere. The time it takes for the Blue Java banana to grow to maturity and start flowering is typically around 12 to 20 months.

The fruit of the Blue Java banana is medium-sized, with a thick, pale blue-green skin when fully ripe. Its flavor is what sets it apart, often described as resembling vanilla ice cream or custard. The flesh is creamy and velvety, offering a rich and sweet taste with subtle hints of vanilla.

The Blue Java banana’s unique flavor profile, combined with its visually stunning appearance, makes it a highly sought-after variety among banana enthusiasts and a true delight for those seeking a tropical treat with a twist.

Plantains vs. Bananas

Plantains, often confused with bananas, are a versatile staple in tropical cuisine. While they resemble bananas, plantains require different cooking methods due to their starchier texture. Plantains are often cooked before consumption and used in various savory dishes.

Best Plantain Bananas to Grow in Florida

To enjoy the goodness of plantains in your Florida garden, consider these top varieties:

Platano Burro

Well-adapted to Florida’s climate, this plantain variety offers large, starchy fruit with a mildly sweet flavor.

Platano Burro (Musa paradisiaca), also known as the “Burro Banana” or “Horse Banana,” is a popular plantain variety valued for its versatility and distinct flavor. Unlike sweet bananas, the Platano Burro is primarily used for cooking due to its starchy nature.

This plantain cultivar grows to a height of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters). It displays large, broad leaves that provide a tropical ambiance to the landscape. The time it takes for the Platano Burro to reach maturity and start flowering is typically around 12 to 16 months.

The fruit of the Platano Burro is larger and more angular compared to sweet bananas, with a thick green skin that turns yellow-black as it ripens. When cooked, the fruit takes on a soft and creamy texture, perfect for making delicious dishes such as plantain chips, mashed plantains, or plantain fritters.

The flavor profile of the Platano Burro is unique, offering a mild, slightly sweet taste with subtle hints of tanginess. Its versatility in various culinary applications, combined with its hearty and flavorful nature, makes the Platano Burro a favored choice among those seeking to explore the world of plantain-based cuisine.

Saba

Thriving in Florida’s warm climate, Saba plantains produce large, starchy fruit perfect for cooking and frying.

The Saba Plantain (Musa acuminata × balbisiana ‘Saba’) is a popular and robust plantain variety cherished for its versatility in both cooking and baking. This hybrid cultivar, known for its large size and starchy texture, is highly valued in tropical cuisines.

The Saba Plantain grows into a sizeable plant, reaching heights of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters). It showcases broad leaves that create a lush and tropical atmosphere in the garden. The time it takes for the Saba Plantain to mature and start flowering typically ranges from 10 to 14 months.

The fruit of the Saba Plantain is elongated and thick-skinned, transitioning from green to yellow-black as it ripens. Unlike dessert bananas, the Saba Plantain is not typically consumed raw due to its starchy nature. When cooked, however, it transforms into a delectable treat. The flavor profile of the Saba Plantain is characterized by a mildly sweet taste and a dense, creamy texture.

Its versatility makes it ideal for a wide range of culinary creations, from savory plantain chips and stews to delectable plantain bread or cakes. The Saba Plantain’s substantial size, adaptability, and hearty flavor make it a staple ingredient in many tropical cuisines and a favorite among plantain enthusiasts.

How to Grow the Best Tasting Bananas

To ensure your banana plants thrive, it’s essential to understand the environmental factors that influence their growth:

Temperatures

Bananas thrive in consistently warm to hot conditions. The optimal temperatures are between 78°F to 82°F, although they fruit best at 84°F to 86°F.

When temperatures drop below 60°F, the growth of banana plants slows down, and it completely stops at 50°F. So, you won’t see much progress on your bananas during the winter.

Unfortunately, cooler winter days can really stunt the growth of your banana fruits when temperatures are between 32°F and 50°F.

The plants themselves can become damaged when temperatures drop below freezing for many hours. Signs of freeze damage include the death of leaves and browning of the trunk and fruit.

Temps below 28°F (-2°C) may even kill the plants, but they usually regrow from the underground rhizome once warm weather returns.

On the other hand, excessively high temperatures at or above 98°F (37°C) can lead to leaf scorch, and newly emerging leaves may appear very narrow. This is why you may want to consider planting your bananas in some dappled shade if you’re in South Florida.

Sun and Wind Exposure

Wind can damage banana leaves, so consider planting in a sheltered location or using windbreaks. This may also provide some protection from summer scorching.

Bananas thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially during the hottest part of the day.

Drought and Flooding: While bananas prefer consistent moisture, they can tolerate short periods of drought. Avoid waterlogged conditions.

Grow Bananas in Florida Soil

Bananas thrive in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Sandy loam soils are ideal, but heavy clay soils can be amended with organic matter to improve drainage. Add compost or well-rotted manure to enhance soil fertility.

Bananas are sensitive to high salt levels in the soil. Choose well-draining soils with low salinity.

When to Grow Bananas in Florida

The ideal time to plant bananas in Florida varies by zone:

  • Zone 8: Plant bananas in early spring after the threat of frost has passed.
  • Zone 9: Plant in late winter or early spring.
  • Zone 10: Plant year-round, avoiding the hottest months of summer.

Circle the Bananas

Banana circles, also known as banana pits or banana circles, have gained popularity among permaculture enthusiasts as an innovative and sustainable way to grow bananas.

This method draws inspiration from traditional agricultural practices found in various cultures around the world. While the exact origins of banana circles are difficult to trace, their use can be seen in regions such as Southeast Asia, Africa, and South America, where bananas have been cultivated for centuries.

The concept behind banana circles revolves around creating a self-sustaining ecosystem that mimics the natural conditions in which bananas thrive. It involves digging a circular pit in the ground and gradually building up layers of organic matter within it. The organic materials used can include kitchen scraps, compost, mulch, leaves, straw, animal manure, and any other biodegradable waste readily available. As these materials decompose, they release nutrients into the soil, creating a fertile environment for banana plants.

Banana circles offer several advantages for banana cultivation. Firstly, the circular shape provides an efficient use of space, allowing multiple banana plants to be grown in a compact area. This is especially beneficial for home gardeners with limited space.

Additionally, the layers of organic matter create a moisture-retaining and nutrient-rich environment, reducing the need for frequent watering and fertilization. The organic matter also acts as a mulch, helping to suppress weeds and maintain soil moisture levels.

Banana circles are a holistic way to grow bananas in Florida and they utilize natural processes and recycle organic waste. They promote soil health, conserve water, and encourage biodiversity by creating microhabitats that attract beneficial insects and microorganisms.

Banana circles contribute to the overall resilience of the garden ecosystem, as the decomposing organic matter feeds not only the banana plants but also neighboring plants and soil organisms.

These circles not only provide an abundant harvest of bananas but also provide a lightly shaded understory for growing more sun-sensitive plants in rich and fertile soil.

Planting a Banana Circle

Creating a banana circle, as practiced in permaculture, can optimize growth and provide a sustainable environment for your banana plants. Follow these simple steps to create a banana circle:

  1. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location that is somewhat sheltered from harsh or excess wings.
  2. Dig a circular trench approximately 1-3 feet deep and 3 feet wide.
  3. Place organic matter, such as leaves or compost, kitchen scraps, composted manure, etc. in the bottom of the trench.
  4. Plant your banana pups around the inner edge of the circle, leaving space for growth.
  5. Backfill the trench with soil and water thoroughly.
  6. Mulch the area around the circle to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Care Tips for the Best Tasting Banana

To ensure healthy and fruitful banana plants, follow these care tips:

Feeding Your Bananas

Fertilizing bananas is essential for promoting healthy growth and maximizing fruit production. The timing and nutrient requirements may vary based on the growth stage and the specific USDA growing zone in Florida. In general, it is recommended to fertilize bananas during the active growing season, which typically spans from spring to early fall.

USDA Zone 8

For USDA Zone 8, it is advisable to apply fertilizer in early spring, around March or April, to provide the necessary nutrients for robust growth. Repeat the application every six to eight weeks until early fall.

USDA Zone 9

In USDA Zone 9, where the growing season is longer, you can begin fertilizing in late winter or early spring, around February or March. Continue fertilization every six to eight weeks throughout the growing season.

USDA Zone 10

In USDA Zone 10, with its year-round warm climate, bananas benefit from regular fertilization. Begin fertilizing in early spring and continue every six to eight weeks, maintaining a consistent nutrient supply.

The Macros and Micros

When it comes to nutrient requirements, bananas have specific needs to thrive. The primary macronutrients required are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The recommended NPK formula for edible bananas is generally around 3-1-6 or 2-1-6. This means that the fertilizer should have a higher potassium content compared to nitrogen and phosphorus. This balanced ratio helps promote healthy foliage growth, sturdy stems, and enhanced fruit development.

In addition to the macronutrients, bananas also require various micronutrients for optimal growth. Some essential micronutrients for bananas include magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), and boron (B). These micronutrients play crucial roles in enzyme activation, chlorophyll production, and overall plant health. It is recommended to use a fertilizer that includes these micronutrients in its formulation or supplement with micronutrient-specific products as needed.

Organic Fertilizer for Bananas

For those preferring organic alternatives to commercial fertilizers, several options are available. Organic materials such as compost, well-rotted manure, and worm castings can provide a rich source of nutrients for bananas. Additionally, organic fertilizers made from natural sources like fish emulsion, seaweed extracts, and bone meal can be effective in meeting the nutritional needs of banana plants. These organic alternatives offer sustainable options while nourishing the soil and supporting healthy growth.

Irrigation for Bananas

Bananas require consistent moisture. Provide regular deep watering to keep the soil evenly moist.

Mulching helps suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Use chop and drop when trimming browned leaves. They will break down in the soil and provide nutrients while helping to retain moisture in the soil until they do.

It’s especially important to provide water throughout the winter and spring in Central and South Florida. Once you pass your last freeze date, you’ll need to water your bananas regularly until the rainy season begins.

How to Harvest Your Banana Crop

Bananas typically take around 9-15 months to mature, depending on the variety. Once the flower has produced as much fruit as it will, the bananas will begin to grow larger and become plump.

At this point, you can cut off the remaining flower if you like. I haven’t noticed any difference between leaving them on or cutting them off. Many people enjoy eating banana flowers in regional dishes, but I normally cut them down to prevent stressing the pseudostem. I drop them into the middle of the circle to compost.

Once they reach their mature size, the top bananas on the stalk will begin to turn yellow. That’s when it’s time to harvest.

You can harvest each hand of bananas individually as they become ripe, if you choose. Cut them from the stalk with a sharp knife.

Alternatively, you can harvest the whole stalk by cutting it about 10-12″ above the top hand of bananas. You can hang them up in a utility room or garage to finish ripening.

Note that the bananas will begin to fall off the stem as they ripen, so you’ll want to make sure you harvest them regularly so you don’t end up with a pile of rotten bananas under the stalk.

The Tragedy of Bananas

Once a banana plants fruits, it will die off. So, you won’t get any more bananas from the same plant once it has. However, you will get new banana plants growing from the rhizomes below.

Many times, you’ll see several pop up before the plant even blooms, which is reassuring when you realize that the plant will die after fruiting.

I’ve noticed that Dwarf Cavendish will definitely throw out two or three pups before blooming. I have a few other varieties that I’ve forgotten the names of that don’t send up pups as prolifically.

Sometimes you’ll get more pups from the rhizome, even though the mother plant appears to be completely dead. If you’re using the banana circle method, allow the “tree” to brown and dry out completely. Once it is completely dead, you can just push it over and allow it to gently decompose within the circle.

Time to Grow Bananas in Florida

By now, you’re equipped with the knowledge you need to grow bananas in your Florida garden. Take advantage of the summer rainy season to get your own mini-plantation going this summer.

Roll up your sleeves, get your hands dirty, and embrace the joy of growing bananas in Florida. Start your journey towards self-sustainability and enjoy the delectable flavors of homegrown tropical fruits right in your own backyard. Happy gardening!

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Grow Sweet Potatoes in Florida

Grow sweet potatoes in Florida

I have to admit it — I have an embarrassingly gullible sweet tooth. Always have had. So, when I first discovered sweet potatoes as a kid, I was hooked. A vegetable that tastes like dessert — it doesn’t get any better than that. I still have a sweet tooth, and when I discovered I could grow sweet potatoes in Florida year-round, I became doubly hooked.

In fact, the ability to grow sweet potatoes, bananas, and pineapples in my backyard is probably the reason I still live in Florida. In the face of increasing heat and some increasingly scary weather. In the face of skyrocketing housing and insurance costs. In the face of the — let’s admit it — pretty awful and kind of unfair reputation we residents of the state have amongst the rest of the world.

But I get sweet potatoes and bananas and pineapples (sometimes) out of my sandy dirt, and that makes it all worth it.

Sweet potatoes are not only delicious but incredibly nutritious. They’re one of the few familiar and beloved staple foods we can grow in abundance in subtropical regions like Florida.

One of the reasons I blog about the plants I grow (and those I just want to grow) is to remind myself of all the details and shortcuts I’ve discovered over the years. It helps me to remember when I share on my blog, and so many (too many!) times I simply forget that I need to plant things a certain way by a certain time.

So, I’m going to cover what I know about sweet potatoes here. Although you can grow sweet potatoes in Florida at any time of year, the summer months are really the last chance you’ll have to plant them in time for those sweet-potato-eating holidays we all know and love around the end of the calendar year.

So, let’s get started…

Sweet Potatoes Have a Backstory

Growing sweet potatoes in Florida

Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are native to Central and South America. They’re most closely related to morning glories, not white potatoes.

Morning glories and moonflowers (both Ipomea species) are native to Florida, so our state is a prime candidate for sweet potato production.

I remember reading that, many years ago, Florida farmers grew Irish (white) potatoes from January to April, then sweet potatoes from May to November. It was one of the state’s most profitable crops.

(Why or how we bothered to go into the orange juice business is a mystery to me.)

Sweet potatoes have a sprawling growth habit that covers lots of ground and produces cute little pinkish-purple flowers that resemble those of their cousins, the morning glory. Most importantly, they produce delicious edible tubers.

History and Spread of Sweet Potatoes:

Sweet potatoes have a rich history dating at least 5,000 years. They were first domesticated in Central or South America, and eventually even ended up in Polynesia (archeologists are still trying to figure out how, although “boat” is the KISS answer to that one.)

When you have something as awesome as sweet potatoes, word gets around. Soon, anywhere on the planet with a long enough warm season to grow them was producing their own crops.

Over time, sweet potatoes became a valuable crop, adapting to different growing conditions and evolving into numerous cultivated varieties.

Sweet Potato Varieties for Florida

There are several popular cultivars of sweet potatoes grown for food in the United States. Here are some noteworthy varieties:

Beauregard

Beauregard sweet potatoes have a vining growth habit, producing long and sprawling vines that can spread across the garden. They require ample space to grow and are often trained along trellises or allowed to spread on the ground.

They’re relatively easy to grow, making them a popular choice among home gardeners and farmers. They also have good resistance to pests and diseases, and their vigorous vines provide good ground cover, suppressing weed growth and protecting the soil from excess sun and heat.

Beauregard sweet potatoes were developed at Louisiana State University and released in 1987. Since then, they’ve become one of the most widely grown sweet potato cultivars.

Beauregard sweet potatoes have a reddish-brown skin and a bright orange flesh. The skin is relatively smooth and easy to peel, while the flesh is firm and moist.

Beauregard sweet potatoes are smooth and creamy when cooked. Not too dry and not too moist, they’re pretty versatile in the kitchen.

They have a sweet and nutty flavor with hints of honey and caramel. They are known for their pleasing taste, and their flavor intensifies when cooked. They’re sweet, but not TOO sweet, with a well-rounded flavor.

Centennial

Centennial sweet potatoes have a vining growth habit similar to Beauregard. They produce long, sprawling vines that require ample space to grow and spread. You can trellis them or allow them to spread on the ground.

They’re relatively easy to grow and are well-suited to the Florida climate. They have good resistance to pests and diseases and can thrive with proper care.

Centennial sweet potatoes were also developed at Louisiana State University and released in 1967. They have a light coppery skin color with a pale orange flesh. The skin is smooth and thin, making it easy to handle.

Centennial sweet potatoes are creamy and moister than Beauregards. They has a smooth, velvety texture when cooked and they’re not overly fibrous.

They have a mildly sweet flavor with a subtle nuttiness. They are not overly sugary and have a pleasant balance between sweetness and earthiness.

Vardaman

Vardaman sweet potatoes are a bush variety, meaning they have compact growth and shorter vines. They don’t require as much space as vining varieties. If you’re growing in a small garden or in containers, they’re your best choice.

They’re generally easy to grow and suitable for the Florida climate. They have good resistance to pests and diseases, making them a reliable choice for gardeners.

Vardaman sweet potatoes were developed at the Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station and were released in 1982.

These tubers have a reddish-brown skin color with a light yellow flesh that darkens once removed from the soil. The skin is slightly rough and may have shallow indentations.

Vardaman sweet potatoes are moderately firm and moist. They have a smooth texture when cooked but may have a slightly drier consistency compared to some other sweet potato cultivars.

Vardaman sweet potatoes have a rich, sweet flavor with hints of honey and caramel. They are known for their intense sweetness, making them a favorite among those who prefer sweeter varieties. The flavor is often described as luscious and candy-like, perfect for indulgent holiday meals.

All three cultivars thrive in Florida’s climate, and all three offer different flavors and textures. All three are listed on the UF/IFAS University of Florida Gardening Solutions website as the best sweet potato varieties for Florida gardeners.

Some other varieties to experiment with include:

Georgia Jet

Reddish-orange skin and sweet, moist flesh. It matures relatively quickly and is well-suited for shorter growing seasons. Good disease resistance and adaptability.

Murasaki

Striking purple skin and creamy white flesh, they offer a slightly drier texture and a unique, nutty flavor. This variety originates from Japan and has gained popularity for its vibrant color and distinctive taste.

Bonita

Tan skin and light-colored flesh, they have a smooth texture and mild nutty flavor. This newer variety is gaining attention for its versatility in both savory and sweet dishes.

Growing Sweet Potato Slips

Sweet potato slips are the young shoots that are grown from a mature sweet potato. These slips can be transplanted into the garden or containers to grow into full-sized sweet potato plants.

Many gardening gurus and ag experts will tell you to purchase certified, disease-free sweet potato slips to plant in your garden. That’s always a safe bet, but the last couple of years have shown us that you can’t always get what you want – sometimes, you can’t even order it online.

If you can’t find them for sale (or choose not to buy them), it’s really easy to grow your own sweet potato slips. The only real disadvantage is that it takes quite a long time. It has often taken me up to two months to get slips, which means that if you haven’t started early enough and decide to buy the, it’s likely there won’t be any for sale left anyway.

Growing Your Own Slips

If you want to try growing your own slips, here are two methods used:

Water glass method for growing sweet potato slips

The water glass method involves suspending the sweet potato in water to encourage the growth of slips. Here’s how you can do it:

  • Select a healthy, medium-sized sweet potato. Ensure that it is free from blemishes or rot.
  • Place the sweet potato horizontally in a glass jar or container, partially submerged in water. Use toothpicks or skewers inserted into the sides of the sweet potato to hold it in place, ensuring that the bottom end is submerged.
  • Place the jar or container in a warm location that receives ample sunlight. A windowsill or a sunny spot indoors is ideal.
  • Change the water every few days to prevent stagnation and maintain cleanliness.
  • After a couple of weeks, small sprouts known as slips will begin to emerge from the sweet potato. Allow them to grow to a height of 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm).
  • Carefully remove the slips from the sweet potato, gently twisting them to detach them from the parent tuber.
  • Place the slips in a small cup of water for a few days to encourage root growth.

Once the roots have developed, the slips are ready for transplanting into well-prepared soil in the garden or containers.

Potting Soil Method for growing sweet potato slips

The potting soil method involves directly planting the sweet potato in a container with potting soil to encourage slip growth. Here’s how you can do it:

  • Fill a shallow container or pot with well-draining potting soil about halfway.
  • Lay your sweet potatoes on their sides and cover it the rest of the way with potting mix.
  • Place the container in a warm location that receives ample sunlight, such as a sunny windowsill or a greenhouse.
  • Keep the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
  • After a few weeks, slips will start emerging from the sweet potato and grow above the soil surface.
  • Allow the slips to reach a length of 10 to 12 inches before gently detaching them from the sweet potato.
  • Carefully remove the slips from the soil, ensuring that you don’t damage their delicate roots.
  • Transplant the slips into individual pots or directly into well-prepared garden soil.

Both of these methods work. I prefer the potting soil method because I believe you get better root growth in soil than when propagating in water.

However, you should choose whichever method that suits you and your available resources best.

Grow Sweet Potatoes in the Florida Garden

Sweet potatoes are a long-season plant and take some months to mature. Depending on the variety, they can take from 90 to 120 days to form adequate tubers.

Sweet potatoes need a warm climate with temperatures between 75-95°F. They require well-draining soil, full sun, and moderate humidity.

Zone 8: In Zone 8 of Florida, plant sweet potatoes from mid-April to late May.

Zone 9: In Zone 9, the recommended planting time is from early March to mid-May.

Zone 10: Gardeners in Zone 10 can plant sweet potatoes from late February to early June.

These planting schedules reflect timing that lets you harvest mature tubers before any chance of freeze in December. However, note that in many parts of Central Florida and all parts of South Florida, you can plant sweet potatoes at any time of year. You may just not be able to harvest them before a freeze.

In Zones 9 and 10, sweet potatoes are frequently perennial and will simply bounce back from any freeze, even if the foliage dies off.

Even during the three nights of freeze and one night of near-freeze last December 2022, none of my sweet potatoes died back at all.

Plot Preparation for Sweet Potatoes:

Sweet potatoes prefer plenty of space to grow. Clear the area of any weeds or vegetation.

You may need to loosen the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches, if it’s badly compacted. You can take the opportunity to add compost and any other soil amendments.

If you are planning well ahead, you can also prepare your plot with the Back to Eden method or use the No-Dig prep method by covering your future potato patch with cardboard and a thick layer of compost or mulch.

Water the area down well and regularly, and you should be able to plant into it in about 4 to 5 months.

Best Growing Conditions for Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes aren’t picky, but you’ll want to give them good growing conditions for optimum yield.

Soil

Sweet potatoes thrive in loose, sandy soil rich in organic matter. Aim for a pH range of 5.8-6.2 for optimal nutrient availability.

Light

Provide full sun exposure to ensure vigorous growth and maximum tuber development.

Temperatures

Sweet potatoes prefer warm temperatures between 75-95°F (24-35°C). They are sensitive to frost, so wait until your last frost date to get them started in the ground. Mature plants are more hardy than newly planted slips.

Water

Sweet potato slips should be well watered when first planted in the ground. If you’re planting before the beginning of the rainy season in June (and most people do), you may need to water every day until they are well established and beginning to vine over the beds.

Afterward, provide consistent moisture. You may need to water two or three times a week if it doesn’t rain.

Planting Sweet Potato Slips:

Dig a small hole for your sweet potato slips 12-18 inches apart. You can plant in grids or in rows, as best fits your garden space.

If you haven’t amended the soil, you may want to dig in a little Espoma BioTone to help your plants get established and strong.

Bury the slips halfway into the soil, leaving the top half exposed.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.

Caring for Sweet Potato Plants

Care after planting out is pretty straightforward.

Mulching

Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, will help to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain an even soil temperature.

Fertilization

Sweet potatoes benefit from regular feeding. Use a balanced fertilizer or organic amendments rich in phosphorus and potassium.

Pruning

Prune back any excess vines or suckers to focus energy on tuber development. They will try to crawl away and root down the length of the vine, which reduces the yield of tubers.

I recall one very experienced Florida gardener of my acquaintance said never to let them root more than three nodes from the planting spot.

Well, I think that’s what she said.

Besides, you can also prune them back and eat the greens if you like. (I compost them or feed them to my bunnies, which is really the same thing when I think about it.)

Pest and Disease Control

Monitor for pests like sweet potato weevils and aphids. Sweet potato flea beetles can eat up the leaves. Employ organic pest control methods when necessary. Cypress and eucalyptus mulch can deter weevils. And nasturtiums make a good trap crop for aphids.

Tips for Increasing Yields on Sweet Potatoes

  • Provide adequate spacing between plants for good airflow and tuber expansion.
  • Prune back excess vine growth.
  • Improve soil with organic matter and appropriate fertilizers.
  • Ensure consistent moisture throughout the growing season.

Harvesting Sweet Potatoes

You can begin to harvest your sweet potatoes when the vines start to yellow and die back, typically around 90-120 days after planting.

Gently loosen the soil around the base of the plant and carefully lift the tubers using a garden fork or spade.

Handle sweet potatoes with care to avoid bruising or cutting the tubers.

Do not wash your sweet potatoes. You’ll want to cure them first, and then wash them when you’re ready to eat them. You can vigorously brush off any dirt if you like, but be careful of cutting or scraping away the skin.

Curing Sweet Potatoes:

Curing sweet potatoes after harvest improves their flavor, texture, and storage life. What you want is for them to cure in a warm, humid area for about a week or even two.

You can cure sweet potatoes outdoors by laying them in a single layer on the ground, preferably on a dry, warm surface, for 4-7 days. However, you’ll want to gather them up or cover them up if it rains.

You can also place sweet potatoes in a warm, well-ventilated space, such as a basement or garage, with a temperature of 85-90°F (29-32°C) and 85-90% humidity for 4-7 days. You can use a small room or closet with a space heater and a humidifier.

I’ve cured mine at lower temperatures for about two weeks at 76°F to 78°F with good results. I packed them loosely in a crate, padded with crumpled paper to keep them from touching.  

And They’re Good For You, To Boot

The nutritional breakdown of sweet potatoes is pretty impressive for something that tastes so good. A 1-cup serving of cooked sweet potatoes contains approximately:

  • Calories: 180
  • Carbohydrates: 41 grams
  • Fiber: 6 grams
  • Protein: 4 grams
  • Fat: 0 grams
  • Vitamin A: 769% of the daily recommended intake (DRI)
  • Vitamin C: 65% of the DRI
  • Potassium: 18% of the DRI
  • Calcium: 4% of the DRI
  • Iron: 6% of the DRI

If you’re serious about growing your own food in Florida and aren’t sure where to start, sweet potatoes offer an answer. Not only are they very well suited to the climate, but they’ll also grow through the summer here when precious little else does.

Whether you’re growing them as a staple source of calories or because you have a sweet tooth like I do, they’re definitely worth trying.

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Flowers for Florida – What We’re Planting in February

Blanket flowers are one of the best choices in flowers for Florida

It’s Valentine’s Day, and that means flowers. Lots and lots of flowers. If you’d prefer to grow your own, the good news is that this month sees Florida warming up and drawing closer to our last frost dates. Flowers for Florida for gardeners means it’s time to start sowing and planting.

Purchasing Flowering Plants and Bedding Plants

If you plan to purchase plants at your local nursery or home improvement center, you can begin planting them out now in South Florida. Be aware that some of these plants have been treated with systemic pesticides. While these make it easier for the grower to present you with beautiful, undamaged plants, it can also mean they could harm your pollinators.

Be especially diligent by avoiding plants that have been treated with Neonicotinoid insecticides. These are particularly harmful to bees.

Sowing Flower Seeds

You can avoid all synthetic pesticides when you sow your own flower seeds. Florida flower gardeners are particularly lucky, as our growing season is long enough to allow some scheduling leeway for sowing from seed.

South Florida, Zones 10 and 11

Flowers for Florida -- coreopsis is Florida's official state wildflower
Coreopsis is Florida’s State Wildflower

The USDA and Farmer’s Almanac say that South Florida doesn’t have a last frost date. But that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be careful with tender seedlings.

In February, it’s still a good idea to nurture small seedlings under cover in case of a late frost or cold snap. This winter, it seems more important than ever. We seem to be heading toward a trend of cooler winters. Last year, we had a cold snap in mid-March.

Some varieties you can plant out or start in seed trays include:

  • asters
  • bachelor’s buttons
  • bee balm
  • bulbine
  • calendula
  • cosmos
  • dianthus
  • gaillardia
  • impatiens
  • lobelia
  • marigolds
  • nasturtiums
  • nigella
  • salvias
  • snapdragons
  • sunflowers
  • tithonia
  • verbena
  • vinca
  • zinnias

Central Florida, Zone 9

Tithonia delivers in Florida’s hot summers

The last frost date for Zones 9a and 9b fall in mid-to-late February. While you can still plant out fully developed plants from the nursery, starting fast-growing annuals from seed right now is a great way to reduce your landscaping costs.

For flowers in February, plant out starter plants of the following varieties. You can still start seeds as well, and plant out in 4 to 6 weeks. This will ensure that none of your plants are damaged by a late cold snap.

  • asters
  • bachelor’s buttons
  • bee balm
  • calendula
  • dianthus
  • lobelia
  • nasturtiums
  • nicotiana
  • nigella
  • pansies
  • petunias
  • snapdragons
  • sunflowers
  • tithonia
  • verbena

North Florida, Zone 8

Love-in-a-Mist, or Nigella

The last frost for Zone 8 falls in mid-March. So, it may be too early to plant out most flowers for Florida. However, it’s a great time to sow annual flowers for your butterfly garden indoors or under cover where you can keep them warm.

Consider the following varieties for planting out or sowing now:

  • agapanthus
  • asters
  • bee balm
  • crinum lily bulbs
  • dahlia bulbs
  • dianthus
  • lavender
  • nigella
  • pansies
  • snapdragons
  • viola

Flowers for Florida in February Guaranteed

One of the best ways to ensure you’ll have flowers in February is to plant out perennial flower bushes in the previous fall. Our mild temperatures and regular fall rainfall create the perfect conditions to establish flowering bushes and trees like plumbago, duranta, and hibiscus.

It seems there is far too much to do in February for the Florida gardener, but we’re lucky. You can plant annual flower seeds nearly year-round for a regular succession of colorful blooms.