It’s Valentine’s Day, and that means flowers. Lots and lots of flowers. If you’d prefer to grow your own, the good news is that this month sees Florida warming up and drawing closer to our last frost dates. Flowers for Florida for gardeners means it’s time to start sowing and planting.
Purchasing Flowering Plants and Bedding Plants
If you plan to purchase plants at your local nursery or home improvement center, you can begin planting them out now in South Florida. Be aware that some of these plants have been treated with systemic pesticides. While these make it easier for the grower to present you with beautiful, undamaged plants, it can also mean they could harm your pollinators.
Be especially diligent by avoiding plants that have been treated with Neonicotinoid insecticides. These are particularly harmful to bees.
Sowing Flower Seeds
You can avoid all synthetic pesticides when you sow your own flower seeds. Florida flower gardeners are particularly lucky, as our growing season is long enough to allow some scheduling leeway for sowing from seed.
The USDA and Farmer’s Almanac say that South Florida doesn’t have a last frost date. But that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be careful with tender seedlings.
In February, it’s still a good idea to nurture small seedlings under cover in case of a late frost or cold snap. This winter, it seems more important than ever. We seem to be heading toward a trend of cooler winters. Last year, we had a cold snap in mid-March.
Some varieties you can plant out or start in seed trays include:
The last frost date for Zones 9a and 9b fall in mid-to-late February. While you can still plant out fully developed plants from the nursery, starting fast-growing annuals from seed right now is a great way to reduce your landscaping costs.
For flowers in February, plant out starter plants of the following varieties. You can still start seeds as well, and plant out in 4 to 6 weeks. This will ensure that none of your plants are damaged by a late cold snap.
The last frost for Zone 8 falls in mid-March. So, it may be too early to plant out most flowers for Florida. However, it’s a great time to sow annual flowers for your butterfly garden indoors or under cover where you can keep them warm.
Consider the following varieties for planting out or sowing now:
agapanthus
asters
bee balm
crinum lily bulbs
dahlia bulbs
dianthus
lavender
nigella
pansies
snapdragons
viola
Flowers for Florida in February Guaranteed
One of the best ways to ensure you’ll have flowers in February is to plant out perennial flower bushes in the previous fall. Our mild temperatures and regular fall rainfall create the perfect conditions to establish flowering bushes and trees like plumbago, duranta, and hibiscus.
It seems there is far too much to do in February for the Florida gardener, but we’re lucky. You can plant annual flower seeds nearly year-round for a regular succession of colorful blooms.
Most Florida gardeners are starting to plan our fall gardens right about now. Even if it’s still way too hot to work outside. We can sit indoors in the air conditioning with a sweet tea, watching the storms, dreaming of an abundance of vegetables in just a few months. But what vegetable varieties are you planning?
If you’re wondering what vegetables to grow in Florida, the answer is all of them!
English plantswoman and gardening icon Beth Chatto taught us “Right plant, right place.”
In Florida, we get another dimension – the right time.
We’re heading for fall. We’re ready for fall. We know when. We even know where.
All we need now is to know which are the right plants.
Understanding Vegetable Varieties
Plants fall into different families, and these are separated into different genera, and then different species.
Within species, say, tomatoes, you’ll find different “varieties.” Some are natural varieties produced by mutation. Others have been cultivated by people for specific characteristics..
Plant Families
Plants in the same families share similar characteristics in their germination, growth, flowering, and fruiting habits. Some of the most common plant families in home gardening include these plant families.
Many gardeners swear by rotating every plot on their land by these plant families. Theoretically, any soil disease or pest that develops over one season is sure to damage the same type of plant in the following season.
The issue of nutrients is also a factor. Some plant families all require a great deal of nitrogen. Repeatedly growing members of these plant families in the same plot can lead to nitrogen depletion and poor results.
Common Plant Families in Gardening
While not wholly inclusive, the following represent some of the more common plant families in home gardens.
Solanaceae
Also known as the “nightshade” family, this group includes some of the most popular home garden vegetables.
Tomatoes
Peppers
Eggplants
Tomatillo
Irish Potatoes
Cucurbitaceae
We often refer to these as cucurbits, and this family (for gardening purposes) includes many vining gourds:
Cucumbers
Pumpkins
Zucchini
Butternut squash
Melons
Fabaceae
This is the legume family, which are those that harvest nitrogen from the atmosphere and store it in nodules in their roots. This includes a wide range of garden beans as well as other crops, like clover and alfalfa, which fix nitrogen into the soil in the same way.
Bush beans
Pole beans
English Peas
Snow peas
Southern peas
Brassicaceae
Commonly referred to as cole crops, the brassicas include all those wonderful winter vegetables with dark green and delicious leaves.
Broccoli
Mustard greens
Cabbages
Collards
Turnips
Radishes
Alliaceae
Even a homegrown meal would be a little dull without these members of the onion, or allium, family.
Onions
Green onions
Garlic
Shallots
Chives
Lamiaceae
Many of our culinary herbs are members of this family, often called the “mint” family.
Mint
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Oregano
Apiaceae
These cool-season crops are all members of the parsley family, and include:
Carrots
Parsley
Cilantro
Fennel
Celery
Chenopodiaceae
We don’t normally call these by their common name, the “Goosefoot” family, but this group includes:
Beets
Chard
Spinach
Asteraceae
Although they look nothing alike, many home gardeners grow members of the “aster” family in their home gardens:
Lettuce
Artichoke
Sunflower
Vegetable Varieties and Hybrids
So, if you’re wondering which of these vegetables to grow in Florida, the answer is any of them that you want, as long as you plant in the right season for our wonky weather. However, if you want to improve your rate of success, you’ll look for varieties that have proven themselves in our climate.
What are Vegetable Varieties
You may have heard the term “variety” or may have seen the term “cultivar.” Many gardeners use them interchangeably, and I suppose I am one of them, although I know better.
When it comes to vegetables, however, home gardeners only need to understand the difference between a variety and a hybrid. Especially if you grow from seed.
Varieties are a type of plant that is in all important aspects just like any other member of its species. However, it has demonstrated a small difference, such as the color of the flower or the shape of the fruit.
Nature is wonderful. It’s always mutating to fill the gaps.
Gardening in Florida is one of those gaps. Trying to grow vegetables that most of us recognize and want to eat in a subtropical climate is definitely a specialized niche. A gap, as it were.
So, you may find that some naturally occurring varieties do better in our climate than others. In some cases, careful scientists from our heroic Ag Department have spent years nurturing these sports to ensure they will perform true to type.
What are Vegetable Hybrids
Then there are hybrids. Hybrid seeds are often one-offs that have been bred to perform in specific conditions.
F1 Hybrid: A combination of two distinct varieties of plants that will produce a known result.
F2 Hybrid: Seeds produced by self or open pollination in F1 plant fruits
F3 Hybrid: Seeds produced by self or open pollination F2 plants
You’ll rarely find F2 or F3 seeds for sale because the results can vary so much. You may collect them and experiment with them.
You’ll definitely find plenty of F1 Hybrid plant seeds on the market when you’re shopping for your fall garden. They have some distinct advantages and two very solid disadvantages.
Pros
Bred for a unique or particularly attractive appearance
Combines the best of two parent varieties
Generally produced to be resistant to several diseases
Cons
Usually expensive
Not a good candidate for seed saving
Choosing the Best Vegetable Varieties for Florida Gardens
Now you know a few of the basics about what constitutes a variety and a hybrid. You’re going to want to know which ones the best for your garden.
YMMV – which to me, in gardening, means, “Your Microclimate May Vary.”
I’ve collected some varieties (and hybrids) for consideration. These selections have been recommended by Florida state Ag experts or other experienced growers. Some have been solid gold winners for me.
Some are heirlooms, some are simply open-pollinated, and some are hybrids. Knowing which they are can help you decide to buy or not. This may depend on your budget and your desire to save seed for next season.
All are in alphabetical order.
Bush Beans
Annihilator
Bush Blue Lake
Cherokee Wax
Contender
Roma II
Royal burgundy
Tenderette
Tendergreen improved
Pole Beans
Blue Lake
Dixie Butterpea Lima beans
Early Thorogreen Lima beans
Foodhook 242 Lima beans
Kentucky Wonder
McCaslan
Storage / Shell Beans
Wase Adzuki
Beans, Long/Snake
Kurosanjaku
Mosaic Yardlong Beans
Red Noodle
White Seeded
You Fong Wong Yardlong Beans
Beets
Asgrow Wonder
Cylindra
Detroit Dark Red
Early Wonder
Green Top
Little Ball
Pacemaker III
Red Ace
Heading Broccoli
Early Dividend
Early Green
Green Duke
Green Goliath
Green Sprouting
Packman
Waltham
Sprouting/Flowering Broccoli
Calabrese
De Cicco
Piracicaba
Brussels Sprouts
Jade Cross
Long Island Improved
Cabbage
Bravo
Bronco
Copenhagen market
Flat Dutch
Rio Verde
Round Dutch
Savoy Red Acre
Wakefield
Asian Greens and Cabbages
Cabbage Blues
Choho Hybrid Tatsoi
Early Mizuna
Green Rocket
Green Spray Mibuna
Jung Green
Kosaitai
Okame Hybrid Spinach
Red Komatsuna Tatsoi
Shuka Flowering
Tokyo Bekana
Wakamine Green
Melons
Ambrosia Cantaloupe
Athena Cantaloupe
Charleston Grey 133 watermelon
Crimson Sweet watermelon
Florida Giant watermelon
Galia Cantaloupe
Ginkaku Korean Melon
Hakucho Charentais Cantaloupe
Hime Kansen Icebox Watermelon
Honey Rock Cantaloupe
Ichiba Kouji Honeydew
Jubilee Watermelon
Sugar Baby Watermelon
Carrots
Chantenay
Danvers
Imperator 58
Kuroda Subtropical
Lunar White
Nantes
Purple Haze
Solar Yellow
White Satin
Cauliflower
Brocoverde
Cheddar
Graffiti
Snow Crow
Snowball
Celery
Conquistador
Giant Pascal
Giant Red
Golden Pascal
Utah
Collards
Georgia
Georgia Southern
Morris Heading
Top Bunch
Vates
Corn, Sweet
Early Sunglow
How Sweet It Is
Kandy Korn
Merit
Peaches and Cream
Silver Queen
Sweet Ice
Sweet Riser
Corn, Field
Black Aztec
Bloody butcher
Blue Clarage
Hickory King
Johnson County White
Mandan Bride
Reid’s Yellow
Roy’s Calais
Seneca Red
Tennessee Red Cob
Trucker’s Favorite
Cucumber, Slicing
Ashley
Bush Slicer
Cherokee
Dasher II
General Lee
Greensleeves
Marketmore 76
Poinsett
Sooyow Nishiki
Speedway
Summer Dance
Sweet Success
Thunder
Cucumber, Pickling
Boston
Calypso
Eureka
Jackson classic
Napoleon
Royal
Transamerica
Endive
Batavian Broadleaf
Garlic
Lorz Italian
Thermadrone
Eggplant
Asian Bride
Black Beauty
Cloud Nine
Dusky Long
Florida Market
Ichiban
Mizuno Takumi
Shoyo Long
Kale
Blue Curled Scotch
Dwarf Blue
Lacinato (dinosaur)
Red Russian
Siberian
Suiho Chinese
Winterbor
Kohlrabi
Early White Vienna
Purple Vienna
Lettuce
Heading
Bibb
Buttercrunch
Ermosa
Great Lakes
Manoa
Okayama Buttercrunch
Tom Thumb
Looseleaf
Black Seeded Simpson
Oak Leaf
Red Deer Tongue
Red Fire Leaf
Red Sails
Ruby Red Leaf
Salad Bowl
Cos
Jericho Romaine
Outredgeous
Parris Island Cos
Red Romaine
Mustard Greens
Florida Broadleaf
Giant Red
Greenwave
Southern Giant Curled
Okra
Annie Oakley II
Burgundy
Cajun Delight
Clemson Spineless
Emerald
Jambalaya
Onion, Bulbing
Cippolini White
Granex
Granex Yellow
Matador Shallot
Shonan Red
Superex “Maui”
Texas Grano
Tropicana Red
White Libson
Onions, Green
Evergreen bunching
English peas
Green Arrow
Oregon Sugarpod II
Sugar Snap
Wando
Southern Peas
California Blackeye No 6
Hull
Pinkeye Purple
Pinkeye Purple Hull cowpeas
Southern Seminole
Texas Cream
Peppers, Sweet
Big Bertha
California Wonder
Chinese Big Red
Sweet Banana
Peppers, Hot
Ancho
Cayenne
Ghost pepper
Habanero
Hungarian Hot Wax
Jalapeno
Irish potatoes
French Fingerling
Red Pontiac
Yukon Gold
Pumpkins
Jack O Lantern
Seminole
Quinoa
Brightest Brilliant Rainbow
Radish
Cherry Belle
French Breakfast
Giant White Daikon
Hailtone
Karaine Daikon
Mantanghong Beauty
Scarlet Globe
Sparkler White
Rutabaga
American Purple Top
Spinach
Bloomsdale Longstanding
Viroflay
Summer Squash
Aehobak Korean
Black Beauty Zucchini
Chayote
Cocozelle Zucchini
Crookneck
Desert Zucchini hybrid
Early White Scallop
Spineless Beauty Zucchini
Teot Bat Avocado Squash
Winter Squash
Butterscotch Butternut
Calabaza
Spaghetti
Table Queen Acorn
Tatume
Waltham Butternut
Sweet Potatoes
Beauregard
Swiss Chard
Bright Lights
Canary
Fantasia Orange
Flamingo
Fordhook Giant
Perpetual Spinach
Pink Lipstick
Red Ruby
Determinate Tomatoes
Celebrity
Floradade
Floragold
Homestead
Maraglobe
Solar Set
Tasti-lee
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Amelia
Better Boy
Bonnie’s Best
Celebrity
Cherokee purple
Green Zebra
Heat Wave II
Mortgage Lifter
Cherry Tomatoes
Everglades
Gardener’s Delight
Sun Gold Cherry
Sweet 100
Sweetie
Paste Tomatoes
San Marzano
Turnips
Japanese Red Round
Purple Top White Globe
Seven Top
Strawberries
Camarosa
Chandler
Festival
Florida Beauty
Florida Brilliance
Florida Radiance
Oso Grande
Sweet Charlie
Sweet Sensation
Tropical Greens
Green Leaf Amaranth (callaloo)
Molokhia Egyptian Spinach
New Zealand spinach
Red Garnet Amaranth
White Leaf amaranth
Finding Seeds for the Best Vegetable Varieties to Grow in Florida
It’s not hard to find seeds many vegetable varieties for our subtropical climate. But you will need to look outside the box. Instead of shopping at the big box stores, check out smaller specialty suppliers.
New and experienced gardeners often find themselves frustrated by seeds that don’t pop. After spending hours deliberating over your garden plan and then money on starting mix, it’s a huge disappointment when your little cell trays remain empty. But one of the primary reasons your seeds didn’t germinate is soil temperature.
If you’re new to gardening, you may think that growing plants from seeds is simple – toss them in some dirt, and boom – a few weeks later, you have a yard full of flowers. Or vegetables. And yes, while nature uses this method, more or less, nature also uses hundreds if not thousands of seeds to produce one viable plant. Survival of the fittest, and all that.
I get it. You’re excited for spring and keen to get growing. You’ve had a miserable cold winter and need some green in your life. However, jumping the gun will lead to disappointment. If you want an abundant garden, you’ll need to learn about the importance of soil temperature.
What Seeds Need to Grow
Last week, I touched lightly on the importance of proper seed storage. To keep your seed stash viable as long as possible, you need to deny them the very things they need to germinate:
Light
Moisture
Heat
Oxygen
There is a pretty wide range of optimal germination temperatures depending on where the plant evolved and the climate of its origins. Some plants prefer cooler temperatures and will germinate very early in the spring. Others prefer higher temperatures and will do wonderfully in the summer heat.
Nature abhors a vacuum and will work to ensure a steady supply of flowering plants throughout the growing season. So, some flowers have evolved to germinate at 45 or 50 degrees, while others will take over when temperatures hit 85.
For a long-lasting and beautiful garden throughout the growing season, it’s critical to understand what you can grow and at which temperature to start them.
Container gardening lets you control moisture and soil temperature for a variety of plant species.
Soil Temperature vs. Ambient Temperature
One mistake I have commonly seen made by new gardeners is not understanding the difference between soil temperature and air temperature. While soil temperatures are relatively stable 10 feet below the surface, it’s much more variable at root level for your new seedlings.
Even at root level, soil temperatures are very different than the air temperature. For good germination, you need to be sure the soil temperature is right.
In cooler regions, the soil temperature may stay much cooler, even though the sun feels hot on your skin on a clear spring day. Worst of all, they may plummet in the night when the sun goes down. The soil — and your little seeds — could even freeze.
In warmer regions, however, the soil can remain much warmer than the air temperature, which isn’t always a good thing.
Last January, for example, our nearby IFAS weather station recorded lows of 26 degrees Fahrenheit, but the soil temperature barely dropped below 60. Now that it’s summer, the soil can reach up to 86 degrees F, even as the air cools towards evening into the 70s. Many flower seeds just won’t germinate above 85.
Optimal Soil Temperature Varies
The best temperature for germinating flower seeds will vary by plant species, plant origins, and even moisture levels.
Seeds too cold
Seeds in conditions that are too cold will not germinate. If those conditions are also moist, it’s likely the seed will rot before it sprouts. Heavy spring rains can also keep your garden soil from warming up, further slowing the process. And that’s if you don’t have a sudden late frost!
Seeds too hot
Seeds in conditions that are too hot may also not germinate. There’s a reason gardening experts recommend getting your compost pile above 100 degrees. That’s to kill whatever weed seeds may lie dormant in the pile. Too much heat kills.
Seeds just right
Seeds have been programmed by millions of years of evolution, along with careful cultivation by humans, to germinate when the ongoing conditions will be optimal for the plants to grow and thrive.
This is reinforced by the fact that the microbiology in the soil that will help your plants thrive also needs optimal temperatures to thrive.
Germination Temperature vs. Growing Temperature
More annoyingly, many plants prefer lower growing temperatures once they’ve germinated. So, that beautiful new packet of petunia seeds may need 75 degrees to germinate, but will perhaps grow better under cooler conditions around 60 to 65.
Other plants may be stimulated by a freakish warm spell or even the odd late freeze that cracks the shell.
Plants are weird.
This need for a particular sequential set of conditions is one of the reasons why so many gardeners turn to native plants. Rather than spending money on heaters and lights and misting systems, many gardeners prefer to take their cues from the natural conditions where they live and let nature sort it out.
Group plants by their preferred soil temperature when direct sowing a variety of plants.
Control Freak Gardening
Over the years, I’ve evolved from the hopeful and random scattering of seeds into a complete control freak, where nearly everything I grow is started in cell trays or soil blocks.
Aside from beans and Ipomoea spp. (and sometimes even those), I’m all about controlled conditions. While I do enjoy an extended growing season in Coastal Central Florida, I also have very little room. I take Charles Dowding to heart when he suggests starting as many plants as possible in trays so you’ll always have something to plug into the garden beds. I’m a big fan of soil blockers.
With flowers, I’m a little less controlling, but then, I’ve got more experience with vegetable gardening and I’m really just starting to experiment with growing ornamentals and wildflowers from seeds. I’ve had equal success with easy flowers with direct sowing as with using starter trays.
But as I talk to more gardeners across the country, both new and experienced, I learn more about how important soil temperature is for germination. I admit it — I’m spoiled by an excellent climate. We almost always have reasonable soil temperatures where I live. If anything, it’s managing moisture we struggle with most here in Florida.
As I learn more about optimal soil temperatures for germinating flower seeds, the more I become fascinated and keen to experiment. We’re in the hottest part of the summer, with daily UV alerts and heat indexes in the 100s. I’m excited to see if I can start some more heat-sensitive flowers indoors in my “farm office” for planting out as the weather cools toward autumn.
In temperate zones, many gardeners get a start on spring by starting seeds indoors in the winter.
Here in the subtropics, we can do the same thing to get a jump on fall gardening.
Starting plants indoors lets you provide optimal soil temperature for a variety of plants.
Optimal Soil Temperature for Flower Seeds
Most internet resources will tell you that anything between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit is fine. But since I deal with a lot of flowers that are native to tropical and subtropical regions, I wanted to dive deeper than “just fine.”
I was also able to find some other critical information on the Iowa State University website that may prove useful — the common flower seeds that require light to germinate.
Some seeds require surface sowing, as they need exposure to sunlight to sprout. Others should be covered with soil, generally with 2 times the depth of the size of the seed.
For seeds that require light to germinate, barely cover with a sprinkling of soil. Or sprinkle lightly onto moist starting mix and press gently into the soil. Use a mister to keep seeds moist without disturbing them or displacing them.
With seeds that require darkness, remember that as soon as they sprout, they will need sunlight. Don’t leave them in the dark too long without checking them.
Flower Germination Temperature and Light Conditions
Flower Seed
Optimal Temperature for Germination
Light Requirements for Germination
Alyssum
55° to 70°
Light
Angelonia
70° to 75°
Light
Aster
65° to 70°
Light or Dark
Bachelor’s Buttons (Centaurea cyanus)
65° to 70°
Light or Dark
Begonia
70° to 75°
Light
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristate)
70° to 75°
Light
Blue Sage (Salvia farinacea)
70° to 75°
Light
Borage
65° to 85°
Dark
California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)
55°
Light
Canna
70° to 85°
Dark
Celosia
70° to 75°
Dark
Cleome
70° to 75°
Light
Coleus
70° to 75°
Light
Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)
65° to 75°
Light
Coneflower (Echinacea spp.)
65° to 70°
Light
Coreopsis
55° to 75°
Light
Dahlia
70° to 80°
Light or Dark
Daisy (Bellis perennis)
65° to 70°
Light
Delphinium
60° to 68°
Dark
Dianthus
60° to 68°
Dark
False Queen Anne’s Lace (Ammi majus)
55° to 65°
Light
Four O’ Clocks (Mirabilis)
65° to 75°
Dark
Foxgloves (Digitalis)
60° to 65°
Light
French Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
70° to 75°
Light
Geranium (Pelargonium)
70° to 75°
Dark
Gomphrena
70°
Light or Dark
Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea)
60° to 70°
Light
Impatiens
70° to 75°
Light
Lavender
70° to 80°
Light
Liatris
55° to 72°
Dark
Lisianthus
75°
Light
Lobelia
65° to 75°
Light
Lupine
55° to 65°
Dark
Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotundafolia)
70° to 75°
Light
Milkweed (Asclepias)
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Monarda
60° to 70°
Light
Moonflower (Ipomea alba)
85° to 95°
Dark
Morning Glory (Ipomea spp.)
70° to 85°
Dark
Nasturtium
65° to 70°
Dark
Nicotiana
70° to 75°
Light
Nigella
65° to 70°
Light
Pansy (Viola tricolor)
65° to 70°
Dark
Petunia
70° to 80°
Light
Phlox
60° to 65°
Dark
Portulaca
75° to 85°
Light
Red Poppy (Papaver rhoeas)
65° to 70°
Light
Roselle
75° to 85°
Dark
Rudbeckia
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea)
70° to 75°
Light
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum)
60° to 70°
Light
Statice (Limonium)
68° to 75°
Light
Stocks (Matthiola incana)
60° to 65°
Light or Dark
Strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum)
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Sunflower (Helianthus)
70° to 85°
Dark
Verbena
70° to 75°
Dark
Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium )
65° to 75°
Light
Zinnia
70° to 80°
Dark
How to Make Optimal Soil Temperature Work for You
Now that you know the best soil temperatures for common garden flowers, you can use this information for better germination. Consult your local extension office to find the best source of soil temperature data for your area. I use, appropriately, the Florida Automated Weather Network, or “FAWN.”
If you’re starting early in the spring, you can use black plastic sheets several weeks before direct sowing to warm the soil.
The most popular option is to start your seeds indoors where it’s warmer. Many gardeners swear by heat mats for starting seeds and cuttings at any time of year. Heat mats will ensure a steady perfect temperature, regardless of the weather or the blasting AC in August.
If you’ve already hit high summer temperatures, you can choose to start seeds indoors or under cover where they’ll receive some shade. The summer sun on a bare garden bed can play havoc on seeds and other soil life. Growing them under cover until they’re mature enough to handle the heat is one technique to add to your gardening toolbox.
For my part, I know I’ll never try to start alyssum or nigella after April ever again.
Time to Grow
Adding flowers to your garden plan is always a good idea. They’re not just beautiful – they also add critical forage for those pollinator friends that help us with our squashes and cucumbers. Many also bring in necessary predatory insects that can help protect our work.
They add diversity to the garden with their own root exudates, enriching the soil and in some cases, purifying it as well.
With our mild winters and subtropical climate, many gardeners assume we can grow tomatoes all year round in Florida. The fact is that we can’t, but it’s not what you’d expect. Summer is a horrible time for anything but the semi-native, naturalized Everglades tomato variety. And sometimes it’s even too miserable for them.
Can you grow tomatoes in Florida in the winter? You sure can, if you approach it with some thoughtfulness. If you’ve never gardened before or you’re one of the many transplants from “up north,” it may seem like it’s hard to grow tomatoes at all in Florida.
But I remember growing up in the late 70s and hearing about the famous “Ruskin tomatoes.” They were a big deal in the Ohio suburbs, and since I was just a kid at the time, I can only speculate why. Before mass import of fresh produce became commonplace, Ruskin (Gulf Coast region, zone 9b-10a) was probably the first place to deliver fresh tomatoes in the spring in the Eastern U.S. So, obviously, you must be able to grow tomatoes in Florida in the winter, right?
If you look at some of the planting schedules published online for Florida, including our Florida Gardening Planner, you’ll note that for Central and South Florida, experts recommend starting tomato seeds for fall planting in August. My experience is that late July or any time in August is fine, and they’ll be ready for planting out in mid to late September.
This last year (2021) remained pretty hot and muggy well into October, so I felt comfortable planting out the remaining starter plants that month. In Central Florida, it currently stays pretty warm and mild throughout December, and we normally don’t get any real lows until January. That said, it’s pretty usual to have healthy, full-grown, and still-producing tomato plants on New Year’s Day.
But what about those cold snaps? How do you ensure that your tomatoes make it through the night? What’s the best way to grow tomatoes in the winter in Florida? How do you manage winter gardening in Florida when it’s impossible to predict the next cold snap?
Plan Early for Winter Growing
Getting your tomato seeds started in time is key to growing tomatoes over the winter in Florida. For zones 9 and 10, that means having starter plants ready to establish in the garden well before any temperature drops. Tomatoes should have at least 8 to 12 weeks in their final homes before cold nights hit to develop strong and healthy root systems.
Plant for Optimal Sun Exposure
Placement is also key to growing tomatoes in a Florida winter. Just because it’s 80 degrees doesn’t mean the days are any longer. Plant your tomatoes with southern exposure, ensuring they receive as much full sun as possible. You may have to water them more frequently but setting them up for success with plenty of sunlight will create more resilient plants.
This isn’t a technique recommended for growing tomatoes in the spring, when a little protection from the midday sun may be beneficial. For winter tomatoes, full sun is required.
Protect Against the Elements
Depending on where you live in Florida, winter winds can cause havoc. Coastal areas are particularly beaten by high winds. Plant your tomatoes where buildings or larger shrubs or trees can protect them from harsh gusts.
Reflect on This
A south-facing wall can help collect heat and reflect warmth back onto your plants during the night. So, whether you grow in containers or garden beds, take advantage of any light-colored walls that can help keep your tomato plants toasty warm.
Mindfulness
Paying attention to the weather forecast is a must for gardeners in any location. Take note of the forecast so you can prepare. The good news is that even when it drops below 50 degrees, or even 40 degrees, it rarely drops that low for long enough to completely kill your tomato plants.
Tomatoes don’t produce well with temperatures below 50 degrees F, but they can survive down to freezing temperatures. A short blast of cold can damage leaves and stunt growth, and extensive frost can kill your plants, whether it’s 40 degrees or 30. But you can provide protection overnight to give them their best chance.
Prepping your Tomatoes for Cold Snaps
Part of planning ahead for winter gardening in Florida includes planting your tomatoes where they can be easily covered. This may be in containers that can be moved, in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or even against a trellis or arbor that offers support for frost covers.
Another key factor when planning ahead is choosing the right tomato variety for winter growing. Tomatoes are either determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes only grow to a specified height — about 3 to 4 feet. Indeterminate varieties continue to grow and vine up to 6, 8, even 10 feet long. Covering a relatively short tomato plant for a cold snap is infinitely easier than a tall, vining variety. So, if you’re planning on growing your winter tomatoes outdoors rather than in a greenhouse or tunnel, you may want to stick to the determinate varieties.
Improving Resilience
Another way to help your tomatoes make it through cold spells is to ensure that it’s as healthy a plant as possible. A healthy tomato plant is far more likely to recover from any cold damage.
Watering
You may have noticed the specific weather pattern that often precedes a cold snap in Florida — a heavy rainfall. Winter and spring are some of our drier months in Central Florida, but we frequently get a good rainfall before a cold front hits. Take this as a clue from nature. Make sure to water your tomato plants deeply the day before the cold snap. Water keeps the individual cells of the foliage plump and strong, while moist soil stays warmer than dry soil.
In the case of tomatoes, it’s still a good idea to avoid getting the foliage wet, so water the ground, not the leaves.
Covering
There are a number of commercial products you can buy to cover your tomato plants during a cold snap, from lightweight fleece sheets to insulating blankets. In warmer areas of Florida, an old sheet or blanket will do. We’ve also repurposed a number of old beach towels. If you don’t have any leftover bedding, check your local thrift store and save yourself a small fortune.
Many is the time we’ve had an “all hands on deck” to dig through linen chests and closets to find old sheets. The whole family works together to cover the tomato plants, and it’s funny to see the old kids’ cartoon character sheets flapping in the breeze.
Sometimes it’s not hoarding, it’s being prepared.
All fabric covering should be dry before covering the plant. Drape the plant as completely as possible, from the top to the ground, ensuring the edge touches the ground and is well anchored to keep in the heat. Make sure that no branches will carry more weight than they can manage.
Don’t use plastic unless you can guarantee it will never touch the leaves. Frankly, it may not be worth using at all unless, of course, you have a polytunnel.
After Care
Helping your tomato plants recover from a cold snap is just as important as preparing for it. Make sure you remove any covering as soon as you can after the sunrise. If condensation has collected on the covers, you should remove them ASAP.
With our wacky winter temperature swings, it’s not impossible that the day after a cold dip will get up into the 80s and be blazing hot and dry. Check your weather forecast, and if it looks like you’re in for one of those days, you should go ahead and water your tomatoes again to help them recover from the stress.
Observe your tomato plants over the next few days. You may see some cold damage on the tips of the leaves. These can be trimmed off, but I normally leave them as they are.
If you have any casualties, you can remove any unripened fruits and place them on a warm kitchen counter. They should continue to ripen and be quite edible in a few days. (You can also do this before the cold snap hits if you have time.) Compost the remaining vegetation.
Your Own Resilience
Gardening isn’t just a production line, it’s a process. It’s a way of nurturing yourself by growing healthy food for yourself. It’s a way to connect with your land and interact with the (somewhat) natural world. Don’t be too hard on yourself if your winter tomatoes don’t make it. Winter gardening in Florida can be very rewarding, but there are risks.
Cultivate your own resilience by accepting gardening losses with a big dose of humor and by working for more diversity in your garden, rather than “results.”
And, after all, it’s time to sow your spring tomato starts. So, it won’t be long until you have a whole new collection of tomato plants to fuss over.
The rest of the country seems to be getting ready for winter. They’re unpacking their woolies and scarves and swooning over pumpkin spice lattes. But here in Florida, we’re still sweltering in the high 80s. And with Florida’s upside-down gardening schedule, you may be wondering what to plant in October.
Other Southern garden regions have the same dilemma. If you garden in New Orleans, Biloxi, or along coastal Texas, you know the gardening season has just really gotten underway.
That doesn’t mean it won’t get cold along the Gulf. It definitely will. But it usually doesn’t get cold enough to matter until late December or early January.
Last year threw us some curveballs. Temperatures dropped in Central Florida in late November, and it got REALLY cold in early December. Cold enough to matter. Cold enough to cover.
So, right now, in early October, the race is on to get roots in the ground and vegetables well established enough to survive any surprise cold snaps.
Knowing What to Plant in October
I’ve drawn data from several sources, especially the University of UF/IFAS website. But I’ve also been collecting data from other sources, including experienced gardeners and nurseries that include expanded selections far outside the limited one provided by UF.
There exists a plethora of exotic edibles from far-flung regions with the same climate and similar conditions. Why not take advantage of those resources?
Other regions that seem to mirror our unique gardening environment include parts of Southeast Asia, Central America, South America, and coastal areas in Australia.
I’ve drawn planting suggestions from gardeners and farmers in these regions as well, for those like me who like to experiment with new and interesting vegetable varieties.
North Florida
October begins the limits on planting out in North Florida, unless you have a greenhouse or a nurturing microclimate on the coast and a south-facing wall.
Cold-weather vegetables should do well, but be prepared to cover anything tender you planted out last month:
arugula
Asian cabbages
beets
broad beans
broccoli
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chicory
chives
collards
English peas
fennel
French tarragon
green onions
kale
kohlrabi
lettuce
mizuna
mustard onion
sets
parsley
radish
rapini
rutabaga
salsify
shallots
spinach
strawberry crowns
turnips
Central Florida
The weather is still fine in Central Florida, and still warm enough to sneak in a few warm-season crops like tomatoes, summer squash, and melons.
Thankfully, it also gets cool enough for those plants to begin fruiting, as well. It’s also cool enough to consider planting herbs, peas, and lettuces.
arugula
Asian cabbages
beans, bush
beans, climbing
beets
broad beans
broccoli
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chives
collards
cucumbers
daikon
English peas
fennel
French tarragon
green onions
horseradish crowns
kale
kohlrabi
lettuce
mizuna
mustard
onion sets
parsley
potatoes
pumpkins
radish
rapini
rosemary
salsify
shallots
snap peas
snow peas
spinach
strawberry crowns
summer squash
thyme
tomatoes
turnips
watermelons
South Florida
Summer vegetables are still a go-to for October gardening in South Florida. With few, if any, frosts, risk-taking gardeners can continue to plant out nearly anything their heart desires.
It’s still too warm for cold-loving plants like snap peas and some brassicas, but you can start these undercover to plant out next month if you like.
Asian cabbages
beans, climbing
beets
broccoli
Brussels sprouts
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chili peppers
chives
collards
corn
cucumbers
eggplant
English peas
fennel
green onions
kale
kohlrabi
leeks
lettuce
mizuna
mustard
onion sets
parsley
peppers
potatoes
radish
rapini
rosemary
sage
shallots
southern peas
spinach
strawberry crowns
summer squash
thyme
tomatoes
tropical spinach
turnips
What to Plant in Florida Month-by-Month
For planning ahead for the Florida growing schedule, please check out my Florida Gardening Planner on Amazon. It provides a month-by-month list of edibles to plant out for every month of the year for the three regions of Florida (Zones 8, 9, 10), plus handy planning and garden design tools to help you move step by step for a productive gardening year.
September heralds the beginning of the main gardening season in the South — at least for Florida. The temperature finally tapers off enough that cool-weather plants can survive the heat of midday. And bonus points: it’s still fine enough for warm-season crops. Fall gardening is the prime reason Floridians can garden at all.
What to Plant in September in the Southern Garden
If you’re wondering what to plant this September, don’t tarry when it comes to sowing summer vegetables. It’s still not too late to start tomatoes, eggplant, summer squashes, and tropical spinaches, like Okinawa spinach.
Depending on your zone, if you can get these warm-season vegetables well established before your first cold snap, you can usually overwinter them by covering them whenever nights drop below 35°F.
With night temperatures in the 70s, you can also start planting those brassicas, which is a relief. Some, like broccoli and cauliflower, take quite a long time to grow, so the earlier you start them, the better.
I’ve found a lot of success with the Piracicaba broccoli, which is a heat-tolerant, non-heading variety. I’ve grown it as late as May, here in 10a, and unless you really feel the need for big broccoli heads, the flavor and quality are superb. Best of all, these guys really deliver! They can take some time to start producing, but once they do, you’ll get tiny little broccoli heads for months and months and months.
Speaking of Strawberries
Halfway through September is when you should decide whether or not to grow strawberries this year. Summer has not been kind to last spring’s plants, and I only have myself to blame.
I’m normally a lot more attendant on helping my strawberry plants get through the Florida summer. I use organic fungicides and relocate them to keep them from scorching. But this year, with the addition of the nursery and the chickens, they fell to the bottom of the priority list.
Many nurseries will have bare roots on sale, and some will even have starter plants as well. Check back later in October, as I’m sure I’ll have some on offer this year. And if I don’t, there are many local nurseries near you that can assist.
Grow ALL the Veg!
A quick list of veggies you can start in September includes cabbages, both the Asian cabbages like bok choi and Napa, and the boring old round-head types.
You can also start some of the sturdier leafy greens, like mustards, arugula, kale, and chard. Depending on your zone and microclimate, it may still be a tad too hot for lettuces, except for those bred specifically for hot climates, like the Hawai’ian Manoa and Israeli Jericho Romaine.
It may be worth the risk if your family eats a lot of lettuce, as mine does. Especially if you do loose-leaf types with a cut-and-come-again approach, including succession sowing.
Fall Gardening in Florida Offers So Much
Along with both cool and warm-season vegetables, the fall gardening season is also an amazing time to plant flowers.
Why flowers?
They’re pretty, they add color, they offer charm and beauty.
They’re also a critical boost to local wildlife, likes bees and butterflies, wasps and other beneficial insects.
You would think that August would be the worst month of the year to do any gardening, especially in Florida.
It’s hot, it’s humid, the daily rains pound baby plants, and the heat index regularly hits the three digits.
Weirdly, ironically, and in a typical Floridian manner, August is one of the best months of the year to get started on your fall garden.
For the most part, I defer to the UF/IFAS Gardening Calendar, but I also find it kind of lacking. While the conservative approach would be to use this as my gardening bible, they sometimes miss a few opportunities for some of the more unusual varieties.
But you know, that’s why they’re there – to provide a slow, safe approach that any gardening newbie will find useful and accessible. It’s a fabulous resource and they go far out of their way to make Florida gardening rewarding.
bell peppers and sweet peppers
Rebel Without a Pause
I don’t have a lot of land to experiment with – it’s just a 1/10th acre suburban plot. But I do have a lot of curiosity to satisfy. And a pack of seeds is only $4 at the most. So, why not push the zone and play with the calendar?
I also have to say that I live in a somewhat nebulous space, zone-wise. Clearly, around Tampa Bay, I’m in Central Florida. However, because I live on the Gulf Coast (within walking distance), I’m in a South Florida USDA zone.
Combined with microclimates, south-facing walls, shade cloth, overhead canopy trees, and the usual independent Floridian spirit, I’ll admit that I occasionally thumb my nose at institutional planting calendars.
And let’s not even talk about the planting maps on the back of seed packets.
Seed packets lie.
August is Time to Sow Seeds
Regardless of my personal desire to buck the system, even the IFAS admits that August is a good time to start sowing seeds for the fall garden. Depending on where you live in the state and the conditions in your garden, it’s time to start everything from tomatoes and calabaza squash to broccoli and cabbages.
I’ve been looking for the most heat-tolerant and disease-resistant varieties in the last couple of years and have found a few winners. In fact, even though I’m in 10A, I’ve started my broccoli already this year using the Piracicaba seed from Whitwam Organics.
I even had some sprouting in June, until my chickens decided to escape their coop and grab some lunch!
These producers really stand up to the heat. They do need some time to get going, however, so I went ahead and started seed cells undercover to give them a head start. Once these plants start producing loose brocolette heads, it’s amazing how much they deliver.
Heat-resistant Everglades tomatoes are already growing big and strong, and now that I have my official Florida nursery registration, I’m hoping to share these with others in my Etsy shop or sell locally at farmer’s markets or Facebook marketplace. I’ve planted several out already, but I want to save room for other varieties.
Other tomato varieties in the pipeline include vining cherry types like Sweeties and Gardener’s Delight. Larger varieties started include Floradade and Marglobes. Both are determinant varieties recommended for Florida growing.
I tend to prefer determinants because they don’t need a trellis. Plus, I’m short. Most of all, I often get a more satisfying yield when they produce all their fruit in a few weeks. Indeterminants seem to struggle on forever, giving me false hope when I need to just face the facts, pull the plants, and compost the remains.
On the eggplant front, I’ve got Black Beauty, white Chinese Bride, and Japan Mizuno types in seed trays. I’ve had a lot of luck with eggplant in my location and got a serious glut of Black Beauty last year.
What to Plant Where
In North Florida, you can start cool-season crops, like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and both traditional and Asian cabbages. You can also still start warm-season vegetables, like tomatoes, eggplant, and squashes.
In Central Florida, it’s time to sow warm-season vegetables only, like tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, and summer and winter squash. You can sow cool-season veg in starter trays in September.
South Floridians can start and plant out heat-loving edibles like tomatoes, tomatillos, eggplant, okra, pineapples, and sweet potatoes. September is better for cool-season starts.
Or, if you’re like me, you do you and start what you think will thrive. But hold back some seed just in case.
Weather to Direct Sow
Because August seems to be the worst for me when it comes to summer storms, I use module trays and start my vegetables undercover rather than direct sowing. Coastal living comes with some destructive weather, so I error on the side of caution. Using seed trays lets me keep seeds and seedlings protected until the weather calms down or the plants are big enough to handle the downfall.
It does mean that I spend a lot of time carrying seed trays back and forth, but I’ve seen so many early starts drowned out that it’s worth it. About two weeks ago, we got 5 inches of rain in just a few hours, and that’s just too much for my little seedlings to take.
Aside from bush and climbing beans, I prefer using starter trays. YMMV.
Gardening Goals for Fall 2021
When the weather cools down, I’ll be experimenting with Charles Dowding’s multi-sow technique for root veg. The technique advocates planting three or four turnips, rutabagas, or radishes in one cell. According to the no-dig guru, they will transplant easily and grow just fine. The goal is to twist out the largest of the clump, leaving room for the remaining roots to develop further. I’m looking forward to seeing if it really works.
August always leaves me feeling conflicted. It’s just still too stinking hot for that back-to-school, autumnal mood required. Why do they start kids in school in August? Why should we start sowing vegetables in August? The heat index of 107°F yesterday does not put me in the mood for school uniforms and cauliflower soup. So, sometimes it’s a struggle to stay on track.
But like most gardeners, I’ve got plants… I mean plans… BIG plans. Gardening plans.
What are you growing this fall in your southern garden?
Recent decades have seen an explosion in new discoveries about soil health and its impact on agriculture. On a smaller scale, home gardeners are learning how to better nurture the microbiology in their gardens for better yields. In most North American gardens, that means keeping the soil covered during fallow times. But here in the South, when gardening is a year-round affair, your best bet is to take advantage of summer cover crops.
Along the Gulf Coast, in areas like Houston, New Orleans, and all throughout Florida, winter is an excellent time for farming and gardening. Although the rainfall may be a bit scant, the pest and disease pressure drops so dramatically that it’s worth it to irrigate.
This means that many Southern gardeners may miss a chance to sow important cover crops to restore organic matter to the soil. In other areas of the country, winter is the time for keeping plots fallow or sowing cover crops like hairy vetch, sudan grass, or clover. No one wants to leave a perfectly good garden bed fallow during its most productive season. That’s where summer cover crops come in.
Summer Cover Crops Are Effortless
In the South, summer is a great time to set your garden beds to fallow mode. While you may not be able to plant cool-season cover crops like winter rye, there are great alternatives for our warmer, wetter climates. As well as restoring structure to your soil and feeding the microbiology, it’s a good time to get out of the sun and avoid heatstroke. Summer cover crops don’t need weeding or watering.
Grab a mojito or a sweet iced tea, and let the bees and bugs have their time in the sun.
Finally Got That Round Tuit
In a previous post, I wrote that I would show you how I put a garden bed to rest for the summer. Although I am running pretty late this year, I did finally start to put the beds to, well, bed.
The first step was to put The Girls to work, digging up the weeds, aerating the soil, eating some bugs, and perhaps even leaving a few nitrogen bombs behind.
Adding Amendments
After letting the chickens loose a few times on the target bed, I add a few soil conditioners and some organic matter to the bed. The first bed is particularly deficient, because it’s a new area on top of what can only be called sand, rather than soil.
Because it will be sitting fallow for about two months, I won’t be digging it in. I’m going full Lasagna mode on this one. I normally prefer a no-dig approach to vegetable gardening for several reasons.
The first is because our barren, sandy Florida soil is already sparse with worms and other organisms that I don’t want to risk them by cutting through the turf and topsoil.
The second is that our heat index is usually around 110°F and our humidity around 90%, so the less I have to do outdoors, the better.
Alfalfa Meal
I have recently discovered the many benefits of adding alfalfa to the soil. It makes a wonderful fertilizing tea. A few scoops in both potting soil or garden beds provides slow-release nutrients.
Studies have found it to be just as effective as fish emulsion and other organic fertilizers. The advantage is that alfalfa meal is a whole lot cheaper and smells a great deal better.
Alfalfa also contains a chemical called triacontanol, which acts as a growth stimulant in other plants. Studies testing triacontanol on plants found that it shortened plant dormancy and increased trunk size and bud development by 100%, and leaf and foliage production by over 200%.
This is one of my fallow beds with the alfalfa pellets.
I use pelleted alfalfa, sold for cattle and horses, at my local feed store. I like the Standlee brand in either organic or non-organic. The upside is that we can also feed it to our rabbits. For smaller areas and container plants, Down to Earth and Espomo both deliver quality organic products.
Do check around and find a feed store near you to source alfalfa meal or pellets for gardening. You’ll spend half as much and most likely you’ll be supporting a small business in your community.
Kitty Litter
Yes, kitty litter — basically, clay.
If you live in an area with heavy, cloying, clay soil, you definitely don’t want to add more. However, I live about a mile off Tampa Bay, and our sandy soil drains quickly. Many thirsty plants can’t drink deep enough before it filters through.
I started adding plain, scentless kitty litter to the soil last spring and the results were truly remarkable. I found that I didn’t have to water every single day just to keep things from wilting.
I also added a small dose of Epsoma Bio-Tone Starter. While there is plenty of organic matter going into this bed, Bio-Tone contains beneficial fungi and bacteria to assist in plant growth.
Because it’s the rainy season, and because bacteria and fungi grow pretty prolifically on their own in this climate, I just added a small bit to innoculate the soil and get it started.
Compost
Over the last three years, composting has become something of a sacred mission in our house. Family members come to me with food scraps and ask me where to place their offerings.
Then, we got a paper shredder! Saturday nights are a blast now!
Composting is the single most effective way to feed your garden and reduce your carbon footprint.
My Summer Cover Crops
Yep, a cheap bag of black-eyed peas from Publix!
Last year, I planted Cowpeas that I got from the garden center in a Ferry Morris or Burpee package. They cost me about $5 and I only had enough for a small area of my garden. They grew well. The aphids LOVED them. I did not.
So, this year, I spent $1.50 on a bag of black-eyed peas from the grocery store. That way, I won’t have to feel guilty if don’t eat any of them.
More Compost, Plus Biochar
There is no such thing as too much compost.
This layer of compost also includes some biochar I made that has been charging for about two months.
Hay There!
I watered everything in well and dropped a light covering of hay to keep the soil cool, retain moisture, and try to fool the squirrels.
There has been a lot of controversy about the use of hay and straw in the garden. More specifically, gardeners are finding that some of the hay they’re sourcing has been sprayed with the herbicide Grazon or aminopyralid.
Apparently, there is no killing this stuff! If you put it on your garden as a mulch, it will kill everything you grow there for years.
If you buy manure from horses or cows that have eaten hay sprayed with aminopyralid, it too will kill everything you use it on for years.
I’ve been lucky so far. But, I’ve also been careful.
According to No-Dig Guru, Charles Dowding, you can test for this contaminant in any hay, straw, manure, or compost you buy before destroying your garden:
Time to Chill
From now until I plant out starts in September, I don’t have to think about that garden bed. No watering, no weeding, no cares, no worries. I’ve finally learned to stop worrying and love the summer.
According to experts at the University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, other good summer cover crops for Florida and other Gulf Coast areas include legumes like Indian jointvetch, cowpeas, hairy indigo, sun hemp, and velvet beans. You can also use grain plants like sorghum and sudangrass, if you’re also looking for a huge amount of biomass at the end.
Whichever way you choose to chill this summer, feel free to give your garden a summer vacation without guilt. After all, unlike most of the U.S., we can garden all the way through the other months of the year.
Nature has such a sense of humor! In my last post, I said (confidently) not to bother with a vegetable garden in June in any part of Florida. It’s too hot, too humid… too buggy! So, I had no idea what I could advise to plant in June in Florida, since I’ve found it to be a futile endeavor.
So, what else should happen than to be blessed with a surprise crop of oncoming cucumbers — a vegetable, I must add, that I have rarely grown successfully.
This variety is a complete beast! They’re called Sweet Success, and as long as you can trellis them, they will certainly perform.
With that admission, it’s also important to note that I didn’t plant them in June. I planted this in late March and this is their second cropping after suffering a dry spell.
You may have quite a few fruits and vegetables to harvest in June if you’ve taken care of your garden or simply been lucky. But there are still very few things to plant out.
It may be that you’re finally reaping the rewards of planting three months ago — or even three years. Our bananas are getting fat, and our Barbados cherry tree is dripping with fruit.
But if you don’t have a harvest, is there anything you can plant in June in Florida?
Some Unfamiliar Names
In almost all zones in Florida, you can plant a few exotic varieties of fruits and vegetables, even in the high heat of summer. Look for Southeast Asian and Central American edible plants to expand the variety you grow and eat.
I’ve tried quite a few of them, and if I’m completely honest, there are many I don’t like. There are also quite a few that I don’t like enough to fuss over during days when the heat index is 105°F and the humidity is 98%.
Fruits and Vegetables to Plant in June in Florida
One of the reasons I don’t think about planting some of the unfamiliar vegetables I do like in the summer is because I often plant them in late spring. However, there are a few you can start in June, and even July.
And the advantage is that our summer rainy season should help get them started. So, you won’t have to stand outside in our dry April, coaxing them to life with a garden hose.
Yard Long Beans
These are one of my favorites to grow in the summer heat. They start out a bit slow, which is why I plant them in April. However, you can pretty much plant them any time of year in Central or South Florida.
Note that you WILL need a trellis and you will need one a lot taller than you could possibly imagine. You’ll be rewarded with a constant flow of delicious meaty-textured beans until December for your trouble.
Sweet Potatoes
This is another one that I generally plant long before June, so I never think of it as a “summer vegetable.” Especially considering that it takes four to five months to harvest. I usually grow my own slips from store-bought organic varieties. It takes about two to three months to get healthy slips.
I usually plant to get slips started in late winter so I can start planting in March. This way, I can plant out the slips in succession, which gives me a harvest of sweet potatoes starting in July thorugh December.
However, if you can get your hands on some slips, you still have time to plant them out for harvest in November or December. The summer heat won’t faze them if you get regular rainfall.
This Caribbean veggie is remiscient of pumpkin, but can take the heat. This is the first summer I’m growing it, so the jury is still out. I planted mine out in May, but my sources tell me you can still plant it in June. It looks delicious, and I sure hope mine proves to be.
Alternatives to Plant in June in Florida
June might also be a great time to plant something other than edibles. Add some important companion plants to your garden, or draw in pollinators and other beneficial insects with herbs and flowers.
Marigolds
Tagetes patula, or French marigolds (which are actually Mexican marigolds) work in several ways to improve your garden. They’re not just cheerful and easy to grow.
Marigolds have been known to help deter root knot nematodes — something most Florida gardeners battle regularly. Planting a swath of French marigolds in your future fall tomato bed is a smart idea for summer.
They also attract bees, which is usually a good enough reason for me.
The skies over the gardens of Florida are filled with happy, frisky Monarch butterflies, looking to make more happy, frisky Monarch butterflies. What they’re looking for are milkweed plants, the singular host of their caterpillar.
There’s a lot of controversy about the use of Tropical Milkweed, since it isn’t native to the U.S., but is to Mexico and Central America. One of the key issues is that it tends to increase the chance of them getting a parasite called “OE” (Ophryocystis elektroscirrha).
This parasite is not a good thing and can result in deformed wings in adult butterflies that is nothing less the fatal. Tropical milkweed, because it doesn’t die back here in Florida, can increase the chance of them contracting this condition.
The problem is compounded by the fact that much of Central Florida and all of South Florida enjoys a year-round population of Monarchs that do not migrate to Mexico with their fellow butterflies. It’s warm enough for them to winter over here.
The advantage to Tropical Milkweed (Asclepias Curassavica) is that it germinates well and grows quickly in our subtropical climate. This means you’ll have plenty of monarch food in time for hungry catepillars. Other milkweed species — even Florida native milkweed — can be difficult to germinate and grow too slow for the current year’s brood.
The solution is very simple — cut back your Tropical milkweed to about 2 inches tall in October or November. This will cause the die-off of the parasites and reduce the infection. Also, make sure you have other nectar flowers on hand for them over winter.
But Tropical Milkweed is certainly a beneficial flower to plant in June in Florida and will bring color to your garden.
The Florida Garden Summer Lull
The gardening bug can often turn into an obsession. If you’re relatively new to gardening, you may feel compelled to keep planting through the summer. The COVID-19 lockdowns and subsequent panic over food supplies has meant a lot of new backyard growers in Florida, the U.S., and world-wide.
If you’re a long-time gardener but new to the state, you may find it weird that hardly anyone is planting corn and tomatoes and taking advantage of all this sunshine. That’s because we’ve learned to avoid heat exhaustion and sun stroke.
You may feel like you’re missing an opportunity if you don’t find something you can plant in June in Florida. There are a few things to keep you busy, but preparing for the main even in fall may be more productive.
See all the grass you’re cutting? Compost it! Rest the soil under some cooling mulch. Sharpen your tools, order your vegetable seeds, order your flower seeds, and plan your next season. If it helps, you can even start sowing starter tomatoes next month.
The unseasonably warm winter we’re having may be fooling us into thinking that spring has officially arrived. And some of us are already looking for a southern lawn care schedule. As if our lawns weren’t still all brown and dormant.
And no one can blame us. It seems that as soon as the winter solstice passes, and the holidays wrap up, the days grow longer so much quicker, that we can feel it in our gardener’s bones.
We can feel the sun return and the lengthening of the days.
And 80-degree highs during the day aren’t helping matters.
On the other hand, it never hurts to be prepared. Setting up
a do-it-yourself lawn care schedule before the question even arises is an
effective way to plan a great gardening year. And a month by month lawn care
schedule can ensure your lawn looks great this year and into the coming years.
When to Fertilize a Lawn in Spring in the South
Most lawns in the south are made up of what they call warm-season grasses. Warm-season grasses go dormant in the winter, turning brown and giving us at least a short break from constant mowing. Even during the wet winter we’ve been having.
Your southern lawn care schedule needs to be flexible to
accommodate erratic weather patterns.
Warm Season Grass Varieties
Some common types of warm-season grasses used in Zones 8 to 11 include:
Bahiagrass
Bermuda grass
Centipede grass
St. Augustine grass
Zoysia grass
In the southeast, Bahia and St. Augustine are both popular
choices. Bermuda and Zoysia are excellent choices in areas of the South that
gets winter weather.
Centipede grass is great for those who want to cut back on
lawn maintenance and spend less time on their southern lawn care
schedule.
Your Southern Lawn Care Schedule and Dormancy
While our winter weather may seem warmer than usual, it may
still not be consistently warm enough to return our southern grasses from
dormancy. They prefer soil temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and nighttime
temperatures can have a huge impact.
While the highs may hit the high 70s and even the 80s during the day, nighttime temps below 65 mean that our grass remains dormant. This may be perfect for growing tomatoes and lettuce, but St. Augustine is still sleeping and waiting for true spring.
It’s important not to fertilize before nighttime temperatures rise above 65 on a regular basis – unless you want to just fertilize your weeds. And feeding your lawn too early can mean severe damage if you get an unexpected cold snap.
That’s why it’s so important to plan ahead. If you really want a green lawn over the winter, consider overseeding with a cool-season ryegrass. Note, however, that you’ll run into problems when you overseed St. Augustine. You may find that the damage you need to do to your turf with scarifying isn’t worth the trouble. And without it, you may not get much growth from your seed.
Southern Lawn Care Schedule: When to Fertilize
If you haven’t overseeded with a cool-season grass, you’ll
want to wait to fertilize until nighttime temperatures remain mostly above 65
degrees to prevent feeding your weeds.
Many experts will recommend fertilizing as soon as your last
frost dates passes, but that may be too early unless you’re using a weed and
feed with an herbicide. And frankly, herbicides are so often overused and are
unnecessary. Unless you have an HOA breathing down your neck about every sprout
of dollar weed, avoid them when possible.
Regardless of pressures from yard-police and gardening peers, weed and feed combinations can prove less than effective. In fact, you’re better off applying pre-emergent herbicides after the last frost date, in February or March, and then waiting a month or two before adding fertilizer. It’s more work, but it’s also more effective. If you haven’t noticed, weeds are pretty hardy little lifeforms. They’ll germinate at lower temperatures than grass will tolerant and will thrive with much less water. You want the Best fertilizer for Green Grass, not green weeds.
Fertilizing in the fall before dormancy is usually more than
adequate to feed your lawn in preparation for the first flush of spring.
Keep tabs on your temperature trends and then add fertilizer
when it warms up consistently. In fact, depending on your location, the biggest
challenge during the spring may be rainfall, not your lawn fertilizer schedule
Here in Florida, March lawn care means watering. Spring can
be extremely dry, which can cause challenges for warm-season grasses trying to
green up for spring. Your southern lawn care schedule may include weekly or
twice-weekly watering but make sure your local watering regulations permit it.
The Lawn Controversy
Some people hate lawns and think they shouldn’t
exist. I don’t know how many signs I’ve seen that say “Grow Food, Not Lawns”
all over the internet. While I’m keen on sustainable landscaping and gardening
and I love veggie gardening, I honestly think that these statements come from a
position of ignorance.
Grasses are an important part of any ecosystem, and in the natural world, they cover up to a third of arable land on the planet. At least that’s the figure I recall. They feed a vast number of Bovidae: gazelle and bison, wildebeest, and buffalo. Which then go on to feed a vast number of predators.
Bovids eat the grass to nourish them and then
return the favor by feeding it with their waste. They tend to migrate, spreading
the love and allowing the grasses a chance to grow back.
In fact, grasslands are a better and more reliable carbon sink than forests, because they store most of it underground. Grasslands also prevent soil erosion and over time, improve soil quality with their ability to keep the soil aerated with their deep running roots.
Grasses and lawns are unfairly maligned. Keeping a green swatch of grass that isn’t overly treated is far better for the environment in the long run than mulching everything in favor of raised food beds. Mulch doesn’t retain as much moisture as a healthy lawn, nor does it prevent soil erosion as well.
While I’m a vegetable grower at heart, even I don’t want a front lawn full of corn stalks.
Lawns aren’t the problem. Your southern lawn
care schedule isn’t the problem.
Our quest for the impossibly perfect lawn is
the problem. While there’s nothing wrong with curb appeal, there’s just as much
on offer with a mixed blend of grasses or a properly tended organic patch.
But grasses are hungry plants and use up a
lot of nutrients when they’re actively growing. While using a mulching mower can
add nutrients back into the soil, it may not be enough if hot and humid south. So,
your southern lawn care schedule may include a dose or two of fertilizer
every year during the active season.
Why You Need to Understand
Your Fertilizer
To look its best and remain resistant to disease and pests, your grass lawn needs a few basic nutrients. The main components of lawn food are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Most companies refer to this as the “NPK,” because those are their atomic symbols. You’ll also see a few minerals, like iron, manganese, calcium, and others.
Like any other
plant, grasses need different balances of these nutrients depending on their
stage of growth and the time of the year. This can make choosing the best fertilizer
for your Southern lawn pretty complicated.
The best
fertilizer for grass in spring tends to rely on nitrogen, while summer feeding
may include potassium for disease and pest resistance. Phosphorus may only be
needed for newly seeded lawns or occasionally for a fall feeding before winter
depending on how well you kept to your southern lawn care schedule in previous
seasons.
Lawn Fertilizer Components
One way to determine
which is the best lawn fertilizer ratio for your lawn and the season is to understand how the common nutrients
affect the growth of your grasses. It also helps to understand how these nutrients
are balanced in most commercial formulas.
For example, you may see the “NPK” listed a series
of three numbers. These numbers express the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus,
and potassium in any given fertilizer. So, if you see a fertilizer labeled 13-1-2,
that means it has 13 percent nitrogen, 1 percent phosphorus, and 2 percent
potassium. You might also see other nutrients like iron, magnesium, or sulfur
on the label.
Nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen is what all
plants need for vegetative growth. Grasses produce a great deal of “green”
biomass, so they tend to need lots of nitrogen. Most lawn fertilizers will
feature a higher percentage of nitrogen than any other nutrient. And the Best
lawn fertilizer for Spring may feature nothing but nitrogen.
Phosphorus (P)
In plants, phosphorus drives root development. Strong roots help plants, particularly grasses, remain drought resistant with strong, deep roots. Phosphorus is also important for flowering plants.
However, for lawns, your southern lawn
care schedule shouldn’t include high levels of phosphorus, especially during
your rainy season.
Potassium (K)
Potassium can boost the overall health of
your grass and help it remain resistant to diseases and pests.
Which is the Best Lawn Fertilizer for Southern Warm-Season
Grasses
You can find a broad range of excellent fertilizers for your
Southern Lawn. Because you’ll probably need to fertilize three times a year, it’s
a good idea to alternate between high-nitrogen and balanced fertilizers.
The best fertilizer to green up a lawn in spring is a high-nitrogen formula. You can also apply high-nitrogen blends again in the summer, to give them a bit of a boost. If you have wet, rainy summers, another boost of fertilizer can help replenish the soil, if necessary. I tend to only fertilize once in the spring, but my goals for my lawn are pretty low-key.
But if you’re looking for that amazing lawn, save the balanced
formula for the fall, when you’re prepping your lawn for whatever amount of
cold weather you’ll get. These help feed roots and improve disease resistance
moving into the winter months.
Types of Fertilizers for Your Southern Lawn Care Schedule
Slow-release fertilizers, organic or synthetic, may not provide that exciting rush of instant greening, but then they don’t tend to kill fish or cause algae blooms. For all of our learning and science, nature does have a system in place for feeding grasses and other plants. While we sometimes have to improve on that process, if it’s not necessary, don’t spend the money or stress that system.
Organic Fertilizers
Organic fertilizer is made from natural plant and animal materials like feathers, bones, manure or seaweed. Fish emulsion, made from fish scraps, is one of the most popular.
Organic fertilizers are becoming more popular, especially the slow-release variety that doesn’t’ result in a deluge of nutrients entering the environment and causing trouble in the local ecosphere.
Along with being better for the environment, organic
fertilizers can be safer for your lawn, as well as your pets and kids.
Synthetic Fertilizers
I’ve been known to use synthetic fertilizers,
if not pesticides, because they provide a lot of bang for your buck and they
work quickly. Because they’re synthetic and somewhat bare forms of the basic
element, plants can uptake them quickly and put them to work.
They’re also a lot cheaper.
They do come with some downsides, unfortunately. Because they’re concentrated, they can also burn your lawn and ornamental landscaping.
They can also leach into the water table very easily and can contaminate lakes, streams, and coastlines. Note that some areas have regular fertilizer bans during the rainy season.
And finally, while they’re quick to green up
your lawn, they won’t improve the quality of your soil over time. Organic
material doesn’t just feed your plants, it also feeds the microbes and insects
that support the health of your plants. Earthworms and fungi like organic
debris, not “MiracleGro.”
Forms of Fertilizers for
your Lawn
Whether you chose organic or synthetic, you can find the best lawn fertilizers in several different forms for your convenience. Note that the form will affect how quickly it works and how long the benefits last.
Liquid Lawn Food
Your grass absorbs liquid fertilizers quickly
and readily. But it’s important to make sure to use liquid lawn food when the
grass is thirsty and hopefully when no rain is predicted.
Unfortunately, the effects don’t last very long. While liquid fertilizers are pretty good for greening up your grass early in the year or right before a big party, you’ll need to reapply it again after a couple of weeks.
Slow-Release Lawn Food
Granular fertilizers
provide a slow-release feed that generally lasts serval months. You apply it to
your lawn with a drop or rotary spreader after mowing. You may have to water it
in, or at least apply it right before it rains. With slow-release formulas –
the best time to fertilize a lawn is before or after rain. But check the
instructions, since some formulas may vary.
The benefit of these slow-release fertilizers
is that you only have to apply them every couple of months to maintain a green
lawn. However, the downside is that they don’t work very quickly.
You can, however, use both liquid and slow-release
fertilizers, especially if you use organic formulas that won’t burn your grass.
The Best Lawn Fertilizer for Your Southern Lawn
Now that you know more about lawn fertilizers, you can choose from some established and innovative new brands on the market.
1. The Andersons PGF Complete 16-4-8 Fertilizer
This all-in-one formula features a slow-release action and host of vital micronutrients like iron, manganese, sulfur, copper, and zinc. And it won’t leave your soil quality wanting, as it includes a combination of humic acid and fulvic acid, which increase nutrient absorptions in your lawn grasses by stimulating important beneficial microorganisms.
This granular formula is easy to apply and is more finely milled than other brands so that you get improved coverage.
Specifications
NPK: 16-4-8
Form: Granular
Delivery: Spreader
Season: All season
2. Grow More 5705 Water Soluble Fertilizer
While this formula is high in nitrogen, it also provides a good balance of phosphorus and potassium for overall plant health. https://amzn.to/2tcTkY3
Grow More 5705 also features micronutrients such as copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. This formula for athletic fields is a big hit with homeowners.
This all-purpose natural liquid fertilizer features a high-nitrogen blend along with micronutrients for overall health. It’s specially formulated for Southern lawns and recommended for St. Augustine, Bermuda, Bahia, Zoysia, Centipede, and Palmetto grass
No harsh chemicals and includes seaweed and
kelp for improved soil.
Specifications
NPK: 16-4-8
Form: Liquid
Delivery: Sprayer
Season: Any
4. Urban Farm Fertilizers Liquid Lawn Fertilizer
This concentrated formula offers a broad spectrum of complete nutrition for your lawn, as well as including important mycorrhizae and enzymes for healthier soil. Your grass will readily absorb this liquid formula and you can apply it easily with a hose-end sprayer.
With humic acid and beneficial fungi, this natural fertilizer makes use of bat guano, worm casts, and kelp for a healthy lawn that safe for your family and favorite wildlife.
Specifications
NPK: 3-1-2
Form: Liquid
Delivery: Sprayer
Season: Any
5. GreenView Fairway Formula Lawn Fertilizer
Need fast greening and long-term fertilizing? GreenView offers an immediate boost of nitrogen for quick spring greening. Then, the slow-release food kicks in to last up to 12 weeks of steadying feeding. It also features a boost of sulfur to help your grass take up nutrients faster and more efficiently.
So, save time and money while still getting
the best of both liquid and slow-release fertilizers.
Specifications
NPK: 27-0-5
Form: Granular
Delivery: Spreader
Season: All-season
6. Ferti-lome Centipede Grass Fertilizer
For Southern lawns, this formula is just right for Centipede, St. Augustine, Bermuda and other warm-season grasses in the Southern lawn. The high nitrogen 15-0-15 formula keeps your lawn green and improves resistance in established lawns.
It also includes micronutrients like copper, manganese,
boron, and zinc.
Specifications
NPK: 15-0-15
Form: Granular
Delivery: Spreader
Season: Spring and Summer
7. Milorganite 0636 Organic Nitrogen Fertilizer
This organic formula releases slowly and naturally to provide extra nitrogen and potassium to your lawn safely. One special bonus is its supplemental iron content, which greens up your lawn without causing excess growth. So, you get a green lawn without any extra mowing, which means less work for you and a lowered impact on the environment.
It also contains calcium to improve acid levels in Southern gardens.
Specifications
NPK: 6-4-0
Form: Granular
Delivery: Spreader
Season: All season
Finding the Best Lawn Fertilizer for Your Southern Lawn Care Schedule
Knowing what type of grasses you have in your
lawn and how it reacts according to seasonal changes empowers you to make good
choices about your southern lawn care schedule.
And knowing what nutrients it needs – and when – makes choosing the best lawn fertilizer much simpler. You may want a quick green-up or long-term improvement. The good news is, you can achieve both if you follow your lawn’s cues.
What types of fertilizer have you found work best on your warm-season grasses? Feel free to share your favorite lawn feeding tips and tricks with our readers.
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