I’ve seen and heard many Florida gardeners complain that tomatoes just do not grow well here. It’s too hot, it’s too buggy, it’s too wet, or the alligators eat them all, or something.
That’s just not true.
Tomatoes grow wonderfully here in Florida. In fact, not a few miles away from my place is Ruskin, Florida — the home of “Ruskin Tomatoes,” which I recall were quite famous when I was a kid back in the late 70s.
I suspect they were simply the first fresh tomatoes available in U.S. grocery stores after the winter hungry gap. This was before all the imported foods from Mexico and South America flooded the market and spoiled us with year-round fresh produce in the middle of winter.
And this isn’t a digression — in fact, it’s the salient point.
The reason Ruskin Tomatoes were so early to the market was because we can grow tomatoes in the winter.
The flipside of this awesome boon is that we CAN’T grow them in the summer!
(Except for ONE single particular type of tomato — more on that below!)
Winter isn’t the gardener’s enemy in Florida — summer is. And it isn’t getting any better.
The storms and occasional hurricanes were bad enough, but now we’re dealing with heat indices in the triple digits. This is the new norm. It certainly isn’t the climate I moved into 32 years ago.
Why Gardeners Don’t Know When To Plant Tomatoes in Florida
The reason most gardeners think you can’t grow tomatoes in Florida (especially new ones and transplants from other states) is because:
They don’t understand our very weird climate cycles.
They haven’t learned our convoluted planting schedules.
They don’t really know how tomatoes evolved to grow.
Florida’s subtropical climate provides a uniquely annoying setting for gardening, particularly when it comes to growing tomatoes.
The state’s steamy temperatures, blistering sunshine, and long growing season may seem ideal for these popular plants. While summer is the usual time to grow tomatoes in most parts of the country, Florida summers are simply too much for tomatoes.
Tomatoes are a jungle creeper, evolving in cooler, dryer elevations of South America. They’re meant for mild and moist conditions under the forest canopy, not in the blistering sunlight.
If you live in Indiana or Ohio, you want to pump as much sunlight into these guys as you can during your short growing season. But, Florida is closer to the equator, with a higher UV rating. And increasing development and land clearing is turning the state into a seriously dangerous hot spot.
So, consider several factors when planning your planting schedule, especially given the recent updates to USDA hardiness zones in 2023, when most of the state moved up a growing zone.
Here’s a detailed look at these considerations:
Subtropical Climate
Florida’s subtropical climate means that it experiences mild winters and hot, humid summers. This climate allows for multiple growing seasons, making it possible to grow tomatoes both in the fall and late winter.
However, the extreme heat and humidity of summer can pose challenges, including increased pest and disease pressure, which can affect the health and productivity of tomato plants.
Updated USDA Hardiness Zones
In late 2023, the USDA updated its hardiness zones, which reflect the average annual minimum winter temperature. These updates have shifted some areas of Florida into warmer zones. For example, parts of central Florida have moved from Zone 9 to Zone 10.
Understanding these new zones is crucial for determining the best planting times and selecting appropriate tomato varieties that can thrive in the updated climate conditions.
Best Times to Plant Tomatoes in Florida
Now that you understand the backstory, here’s some actionable information you can use right now when planning your Florida garden.
Because right now is the best time to start your tomato seeds.
Fall: The Optimal Planting Season for Tomatoes in Florida
Fall is considered the best time to plant tomatoes in Florida. The weather conditions during this season are typically favorable, with cooler temperatures and lower humidity levels compared to the sweltering summer months.
This change in temperatures reduces the risk of diseases and pest infestations, which can wreak havoc on tomato plants.
There is an increased risk of hurricanes and tropical storms as the season progresses but fall and winter are usually mild enough to replant should my garden get washed out.
In fact, in Central and South Florida, you can pretty much plant out tomato starter plants any time between September and March. There can be a few chilly nights in late December and January, but if you avoid the two weeks of actual “winter,” you can just put starters in the ground at any time.
When to Start Florida Fall Tomatoes from Seed Indoors
Tomatoes will do best when planted out as well-developed seedlings of 6 or 8 weeks. For that reason, you want to start your fall tomatoes in mid-summer. You can start them out of doors, as long as they’re protected from heavy rainfall.
However — and this seems to be an increasingly annoying fact of Florida gardening life — understand that excessive heat can prevent your tomato seeds from germinating.
When I first started growing fall tomatoes in earnest — maybe 10 years ago — I didn’t have any trouble with outdoor germination in the summer as long as I could keep my seed trays covered and protected from washout by summer storms.
During the last four or five years, however, I’ve had to start them indoors in the summer to ensure good germination. Except for Everglades tomatoes (which are a distinct species), many a seedling tray has sat empty for weeks without a sprout. I’ve begun starting more seeds indoors as a result.
Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in June through July.
Zone 9: Start seeds indoors in July.
Zone 10: Start seeds indoors in July
Zone 11: Start seeds indoors in mid to late August.
When to Plant Fall Tomatoes Out into the Garden
Zone 8: Transplant seedlings in July or August
Zone 9: Transplant seedlings in August through September
Zone 10: Transplant seedlings in August through September
Zone 11: Transplant seedlings in September through November
Late Winter/ Early Spring: Another Ideal Planting Time
Winter vegetables for Florida
Most gardeners think of January and February as “late winter,” but for Florida gardeners, these are the first months for spring planting.
Late winter offers another excellent window for planting tomatoes in Florida. During this period, temperatures are gradually warming up, but they are still cool enough to prevent the rapid spread of pests and diseases.
The risk of frost is minimal, especially in southern parts of the state, allowing tomato plants to thrive as they move into spring.
Florida gardeners should prepare to cover their tomato plants from late December through the end of February. A simple frost cloth or old sheet is usually sufficient.
Honestly, this is the main reason I prefer shorter-statured determinate tomatoes to more ambitious indeterminate types. They’re just easier to cover during the occasional cold snap.
Late winter and spring are also the dry season in Florida, so you may need to water manually instead of depending on rain.
When to Start Spring Tomato Plants from Seed Indoors
Zone 8: Start seeds indoors in early January.
Zone 9: Start seeds indoors in late December through early January.
Zone 10: Start seeds indoors in late December through early January.
Zone 11: Start seeds indoors in December
When to Plant Spring Tomatoes Out into the Garden
Check temperatures before planting out and be sure to provide a cover when nights fall below 40°F.
Zone 8: Transplant seedlings in mid-February through early April.
Zone 9: Transplant seedlings in late January through February
Zone 10: Transplant seedlings in late January through February
Zone 11: Transplant seedlings in January through February
Best Varieties of Tomatoes to Grow in Florida
Floradade Tomatoes
Along with not understanding our very weird planting schedule, a lot of new Florida gardeners are choosing the wrong varieties.
Choosing the right variety of tomatoes is crucial for a successful harvest in Florida. Some of the best varieties include:
‘Sweet 100’: A prolific cherry tomato variety that produces an abundance of sweet, small fruits.
‘Floradade’: A large-fruited variety developed for Florida’s climate, resistant to cracking and splitting.
‘Marglobe’: A small, fast developing fruit that will outrun most pest and disease pressure.
‘Mortgage Lifter’: A beefsteak tomato that tops out at about 5 to 6 feet tall and stands up to heat.
‘Solar Fire’: Bred specifically for hot climates, this variety is heat-tolerant and resistant to common diseases.
‘Heatwave II’: Another heat-tolerant variety, perfect for Florida’s warm temperatures.
These are a small, currant-type tomato that thrives in Florida’s hot and humid conditions. It’s a distinct species that remains truer to its wild Peruvian roots. So, it’s a lot more resistant to pests and disease, particularly in hot weather.
You can even grow these tomatoes in the summer in Florida — they’re just that hardy.
Start Tomato Seeds Now
Now that it’s July, it’s time to start preparing for your fall Florida garden. Long-season annual vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant like a nice head start before planting out.
IFAS recommends planting them out in August through November (depending on where in the state you live). I’m in Central Florida, on the Gulf Coast, so I tend to procrastinate due to the flexibility of my planting times.
But the time to start tomato seeds for fall planting is right now.
You’ll find seeds for Florida-friendly tomato varieties in my Etsy shop. And don’t worry — I always include enough seeds in each pack for both the fall and late winter planting seasons.
So, remember, you CAN grow tomatoes in Florida. It’s just a matter of “right plant, right place,” and particularly for Florida gardeners… right time.
In the verdant state of Florida, where the sun smiles generously, the question isn’t whether you can cultivate a thriving vegetable garden, but rather when is the best time to start a vegetable garden.
As home gardeners in this bountiful corner of the world, we’re poised to harness these cycles of nature. So, let’s look at some of the nuances of vegetable gardening in Florida to ensure your garden flourishes in harmony with the seasons.
Year-Round Growing in Florida
Florida’s unique climate allows for nearly continuous vegetable gardening. The state’s mild winters and hot summers create an environment where careful planning and selection of crops can yield a year-round harvest.
Spring Vegetables
Florida is definitely an outlier when it comes to the best time to start a vegetable garden. In temperate zones, most of the following vegetables are planted and grown over the summer.
In the muggy subtropics, however, it’s important to get a jump on long-season veggies so they can thrive before the summer storm season.
Start long-season vegetable seeds in late winter, or about 6 to 8 weeks prior, to plant out in early spring after the last frost (usually in February, depending on your exact USDA zone). Start faster-maturing varieties about four weeks before the last frost date.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes thrive in our spring’s warmer temperatures. Rich in nutrients and relatively easy to grow, they are perfect for Florida’s soil and climate.
Peppers
With a preference for warm weather, they start well in spring and can continue through summer. In fact, they can be cultivated as perennials in Florida.
Squash
Enjoys the moderate temperatures of spring. Squash plants are prolific producers, making them a rewarding choice. Summer may be too late to plant, due to disease and pest pressure.
Cucumbers
Love the increasing warmth and longer days of spring. They’re fast growers, making them ideal for this season.
Beans
Thriving in warm soil, beans are an excellent spring crop, with varieties like bush and pole beans adapting well to Florida’s climate. Direct sow beans as soon as the last frost date has passed.
Summer Vegetables
Because of our extreme summer weather, only the most heat-tolerant vegetables thrive in June through August.
Eggplant
With its preference for hot weather, eggplant grows well in our intense summer heat. You can plant earlier but know they will really flourish over the summer.
Okra
Heat-loving and drought-tolerant, okra is a staple in Southern gardens.
Sweet Potatoes
Plant anytime between spring and summer. They thrive in hot weather, making them perfect for Florida’s summers. Sweet potatoes can be grown as “perennials” in most of Florida simply by leaving smaller tubers in the ground when you harvest.
Southern Peas
Ideal for hot climates, they are a nutritious addition to the garden and a staple throughout much of the south. Look for cowpeas, black-eyed peas, or pigeon peas.
Yard Long Beans
These Southeast Asian beans taste different than regular green beans, but unlike the more traditional types, they’ll thrive in a Florida summer.
Fall Vegetables to Grow in Florida
I personally feel that fall is the best time to start a vegetable garden in Florida. The days are still long enough to provide sunlight for working in the evening once the heat dissipates.
Lettuce
Cooler fall temperatures are ideal for growing crisp, tender lettuce. You can grow lettuce in late fall until spring, over our mild winters.
Broccoli
Thrives in cooler weather, making it a perfect crop to plant in the fall. Because it’s cold hardy, you can grow it throughout the winter months.
Cauliflower
Similar to broccoli, it grows well in the cooler temperatures of fall. Some regions in Florida may still be too hot for cauliflower, so check with your county ag extension for specific advice.
Carrots
The mild, moist fall weather is ideal for growing sweet, crunchy carrots, and our sandy soil offers plenty of room for root vegetables.
Kale
Hardy and frost-tolerant, kale is a nutritious choice for a fall garden. Our random cold snaps simply sweeten the crop.
Winter Vegetables for Florida Gardens
Yes, you really can grow in the winter. My own garden is far more abundant in the winter than say, the summer.
Spinach
Cold-hardy spinach can grow well in North Florida’s milder winters. Those in Central and South Florida may want to choose a different leafy green. I’ve never had any luck with the stuff here in 10A, so grow Perpetual Chard instead.
Collard Greens
Tolerant of cold weather, they are a staple in Southern winter gardens. Best of all, they will often continue to grow until summer.
Beets
Can be grown in winter due to their frost tolerance.
Radishes
Fast-growing and frost-tolerant, perfect for a quick winter crop, or even a succession of several crops from November through April. Roasting radishes makes them sweeter and reduces any spiciness.
Herbs
As a hardy herb, it survives the cooler temperatures of winter. Cilantro also enjoys our winter weather. It’s also a good time to sow perennial herb seeds, such as sage, oregano, and thyme.
So, When is the Best Time to Start a Vegetable Garden in Florida?
The entire year offers unique opportunities for gardening in Florida., but certain times are more ideal than others.
Starting Your Florida Vegetable Garden in Winter
Prepping a spring vegetable garden for Florida starts as early as December. Our mild winters make it an ideal time for outdoor work. I do most of my major work in our drier winters, such as putting up or repairing garden supports, cleaning out the shed, cutting up wood, and shredding woody debris.
Because it doesn’t freeze often and never long enough to prevent working the soil, you can start as early as December to ensure your garden is ready for spring.
Many areas of Florida have last frost dates in February. So, don’t put off getting ready for spring.
Start Seeds Indoors
Long-season vegetables, including peppers and tomatoes, are perfect for starting indoors over the winter. This way, you’ll have large, healthy plants ready to go into the ground as soon as you pass your first frost date.
Preparing your garden bed in late winter allows you to get a head start on crops like tomatoes and peppers, ensuring a bountiful harvest before the height of summer.
It also allows you to plant out in succession, getting several harvests of those fast-maturing fruits and vegetables, like cucumbers, melons, and squash.
It’s also an excellent time to grow corn without worrying about the pest pressure that comes with hot weather.
Prepping Your Florida Vegetable Garden
Black-eyed peas for summer cover cropping
Prepping your garden bed in the winter means you can employ no-dig or no-till methods for planting in spring. No-till methods can significantly enhance the health and productivity of your garden, as well as its long-term soil health.
Why No-Till Gardening for Florida?
I adopted no-till about five years ago and found that my poor sandy soil needed less amending, fewer fertilizers, and my vegetables needed fewer waterings.
No-till gardening preserves the natural structure of the soil. It keeps the beneficial microorganisms intact, which are essential for nutrient cycling and healthy plant growth.
This method helps in retaining soil moisture, especially in the warmer, sunnier climate of Florida.
No-till beds often have fewer weeds since the soil is not disturbed, which can bring dormant weed seeds to the surface.
Over time, no-till gardening leads to richer, more fertile soil as organic matter accumulates and decomposes naturally.
By not disturbing the soil, erosion is minimized, which is especially important in areas prone to heavy rains, like Florida.
Last, but certainly not least — no-dig gardening is easier on the human body. Especially for home-scale gardening, prepping and cultivating a product garden bed can be back-breaking.
While physical exercise is good for the body, mind, and soul, our extreme climate can make it absolutely exhausting. We had heat indexes in the triple digits for days on end in 2023. Working outdoors in that kind of heat can be dangerous. Even fatal.
Choosing the Right Spot
Most vegetables need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. Observe your potential garden area throughout the day to ensure it gets enough sun.
Good drainage is essential, and although most of our Florida soils are pretty sandy, we’re certainly famous for our swamps. So, avoid areas where water tends to pool after rain.
Choose a spot that is easily accessible for watering, weeding, and harvesting. As I grow older, I find that planning ahead can prevent many backaches.
Look for windbreaks or structures to protect your garden from strong winds, which can be frequent in Florida.
Once you’ve chosen the spots for your garden beds, consider starting as early as November or December to start a vegetable garden bed.
When you use no-dig garden methods, you can let Nature do most of the work. However, she does need some time to perform her magic.
Preparing Your Garden Beds for Spring Planting
As early in advance as you can, it’s time to start preparing your garden beds. You want to prep bed by layering it with organic matter and allowing it to decompose.
First Layer
The first layer is for weed suppression. Start by laying down cardboard or several layers of newspaper over your garden area. This layer suppresses existing grass and weeds.
Second Layer
Spread a thick layer of compost over the garden area. This serves as the primary growing medium for your plants.
Third Layer
Cover the compost with a layer of mulch, like straw or hay to conserve moisture and keep weeds at bay. You can also use wood chips, but I find they interfere a bit too much with any succession planting because they take so long to break down.
Settling
Once you have your layers build up, give your garden bed a few weeks to settle. The cardboard or newspaper will gradually decompose, and the compost will start feeding the soil life beneath.
This is another reason to start as early as possible on bed preparation.
Cover Crops
Another trick to managing poor Florida soils is to set the bed up in November and plant a winter cover crop on top that you can cut down to further feed the soil.
One highly suitable winter cover crop for Florida include crimson clover for its nitrogen-fixing ability. It’s also a beautiful addition to your garden that improves soil structure and feeds numerous pollinator species. So, even if you aren’t able to kill it all off before planting, it continues to add benefits to your garden.
While the bed is settling, it’s time to start your long-season vegetables. I recommend starting long-season vegetables as much as 12 weeks in advance. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant all benefit from a good head start before planting out.
Planting
When it’s time to plant, simply move aside the mulch where you want to plant and put your seedlings directly into the compost layer. The natural layers will provide a nutrient-rich, moisture-conserving environment for your plants to thrive.
Advantages of No-Till in the Florida Spring Garden
Spring in Florida can be dry, and the no-till method helps retain soil moisture.
And because of our variable winter weather — warm sunny days with random cold snaps — the mulch layer helps keep the soil temperature more stable.
Throughout the growing season, continue to add organic materials like compost or grass clippings to the surface of your no-till beds. This will continually improve the soil fertility and structure and suppress our abundant weed species.
The Best Time to Start a Vegetable Garden in Florida is Now
Start tomatoes indoors over winter.
While late winter and late summer are the best time to start a vegetable garden in the Sunshine State, it’s really a year-round adventure.
To learn more about the specifics of garden planting schedules in Florida (and Georgia and Louisiana), consider purchasing my state-specific gardening planners available on Amazon. These offer some tools that will help you maximize your garden’s potential in these unique climates.
Whether you’re a novice or an experienced gardener, mastering the skill of seed germination is a fundamental skill. It’s the first step to a bountiful and abundant harvest. So, let’s dive into the seed starting basics of germination and provide you with valuable insights on how to successfully kickstart your garden from the very beginning.
How Seeds Germinate
Seed germination is a remarkable process by which a dormant seed transforms into a tiny, delicate seedling. Understanding the science behind this empowers you to become a more proficient seed starter. You’ll be able to give your plants the best possible start. Let’s take a look at nature at work.
The Anatomy of a Seed
Seeds are remarkable storehouses of life. They consist of three key parts:
embryo
endosperm
seed coat
The embryo is the embryonic plant inside the seed, containing the first leaves (cotyledons), the stem (hypocotyl), and the root (radicle).
The endosperm, a nutrient-rich tissue, provides nourishment to the developing embryo.
Finally, the seed coat acts as a protective shell, shielding the delicate contents from external threats.
Image from page 372 of “Plant life and plant uses; an elementary textbook, a foundation for the study of agriculture, domestic science or college botany” (1913)
The Trigger: Absorption of Water
The germination process begins with the absorption of water through the seed coat. As the seed absorbs water, it rehydrates. The dormant embryo awakens from its slumber.
This rehydration process also activates enzymes that break down stored nutrients within the endosperm, transforming them into simple sugars and other essential substances for the seedling’s early growth.
Activation of Growth Hormones
Water absorption triggers the production of growth hormones called gibberellins, which play a pivotal role in stimulating the embryo to initiate growth.
Gibberellins activate enzymes responsible for cell division and elongation, propelling the embryo’s root (radicle) to emerge from the seed coat in search of moisture and nutrients.
Emergence of the Root
As the root (radicle) elongates, it breaks through the seed coat and emerges into the surrounding soil.
The radicle becomes the primary root of the seedling, anchoring it in the growing medium and absorbing water and essential nutrients.
Unfurling the Cotyledons
Simultaneously, the stem (hypocotyl) elongates, pushing the cotyledons (seed leaves) above the soil surface.
Cotyledons vary in number and shape depending on the plant species and can be either one or two. These early leaves are instrumental in photosynthesis and provide the young seedling with initial sustenance until true leaves develop.
Photosynthesis Commences
With the cotyledons exposed to light, the process of photosynthesis begins.
Through photosynthesis, the seedling synthesizes glucose, a vital energy source, from carbon dioxide and water using sunlight.
This metabolic activity fuels the seedling’s growth, allowing it to develop into a robust and self-sustaining plant.
The intricate processes of water absorption, hormone activation, and the emergence of roots and cotyledons collectively orchestrate a marvelous transformation.
What Seeds Need to Germinate
Seed germination is a critical stage in a plant’s life cycle, and providing the right conditions is essential for successful germination.
While individual plant species have specific germination requirements, some general factors influence seed germination across most plants.
Understanding these factors will help you create an optimal environment for seedlings to emerge and thrive.
Moisture
Water is a primary trigger for seed germination. During imbibition, the seed absorbs water, leading to the activation of enzymes that initiate metabolic processes and growth.
Sufficient moisture is vital during germination to ensure the seed swells, softens the seed coat, and facilitates the emergence of the radicle.
Warmth
Temperature plays a crucial role in germination. Each plant species has an optimal temperature range for germination.
Seeds typically require warmth to activate enzymes and metabolism. Low temperatures can slow or inhibit germination, while high temperatures can cause damage or desiccation.
Seeds respire during germination, converting stored energy into usable forms. Adequate oxygen supply is essential for these metabolic processes.
Soil structure and porosity influence the availability of oxygen to seeds in the growing medium.
Light
Light requirements for germination vary among plant species. Some seeds require light to trigger germination, while others germinate best in darkness.
Photoreceptor proteins in seeds sense light levels and influence germination responses.
Factors that Affect Seed Starting and Germination
Seed Coat Permeability
The seed coat serves as a protective layer, and its permeability affects germination.
Some seeds have hard or impermeable seed coats, requiring scarification (mechanical or chemical abrasion) to enhance water absorption and germination.
Seed Dormancy
Scarification involves breaking or weakening the seed coat, promoting germination. Stratification refers to subjecting seeds to cold treatment, mimicking winter conditions.
Both techniques are used to overcome seed dormancy and synchronize germination with favorable conditions.
Germination Inhibitors and Hormones
Some seeds contain chemicals that inhibit germination until specific conditions are met.
Others require exposure to hormones like gibberellins or cytokinins to initiate germination.
Germination Time
Different seeds have varied germination periods. Some seeds germinate quickly, while others may require several weeks or even months.
Understanding the expected germination time helps manage expectations and avoid premature intervention.
Seeds that Need Light to Germinate
Some seeds need sunlight exposure to germination. Sunlight acts as a signal to the seed that it is close to the surface of the soil and has good conditions to begin growing.
Light-sensitive seeds won’t germinate if planted too deep in the soil.
Vegetable Seeds that Require Light to Germinate
Arugula (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis)
Cilantro/Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Endive (Cichorium endivia)
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica)
Mustard Greens (Brassica juncea)
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris)
Flower Seeds that Require Light to Germinate
Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Amaranthus (Amaranthus spp.)
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Nigella/Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena)
Pansy (Viola tricolor)
Portulaca (Portulaca grandiflora)
Stock (Matthiola incana)
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Seeds that Need Darkness to Germinate
On the other hand, some seeds require darkness to germinate.
Light-sensitive inhibitors in these seeds prevent germination in the presence of light. When these seeds are covered by soil or kept in a dark environment, the light is blocked, and germination can occur.
Vegetable Seeds that Require Darkness to Germinate
Beets (Beta vulgaris)
Carrots (Daucus carota)
Parsnips (Pastinaca sativa)
Rutabaga (Brassica napus)
Salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius)
Scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica)
Skirret (Sium sisarum)
Taro (Colocasia esculenta)
Turnips (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa)
Yam (Dioscorea spp.)
Flower Seeds that Require Darkness to Germinate
Browallia (Browallia speciosa)
Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides)
Cyclamen (Cyclamen spp.)
Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria)
Forget-Me-Nots (Myosotis sylvatica)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana)
Primrose (Primula spp.)
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Viola (Viola spp.)
Seeds that Need to be Soaked to Germinate
Some seeds have hard seed coats that create a barrier to water absorption, slowing germination.
To overcome this dormancy, you can soak these seed before planting. You can also nick the hard shell before soaking. This softens the seed coat, allowing water to penetrate and trigger germination.
List of Flower Seeds that Can be Soaked before Sowing
Four O’Clock (Mirabilis jalapa)
Moonflower (Ipomoea alba)
Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea)
Sweet Acacia (Vachellia farnesiana)
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus)
Sweet Sultan (Centaurea moschata)
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Some seeds may require only a few hours of soaking, while others might need an overnight soak or even longer.
Seeds that Need Cold Stratification to Germinate
Many seeds from temperate climates have built-in dormancy mechanisms that prevent immediate germination.
This can be a problem when gardening in warmer climates in Zones 8-12. We rarely get enough cold or long enough during the winter to stimulate these kinds of plant seeds.
In this case, cold stratification, a process of subjecting seeds to cold and moist conditions before seed starting, mimics winter conditions. This breaks seed dormancy, allowing them to germinate.
This treatment triggers biochemical changes within the seeds, preparing them for germination once conditions become favorable.
Flower Seeds that Benefit from Cold Stratification
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)
Delphinium (Delphinium spp.)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)
Larkspur (Consolida spp.)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Seeds that Germinate at Cold Temperatures (40-50 degrees F)
Plants that have evolved to germinate best under cooler conditions may require cooler temperatures to germinate. This gives them a head start in competing in temperate climates.
These cold-tolerant seeds germinate when the soil temperature is relatively low, which is often during early spring or late fall when the weather is cooler.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at Cold Temperatures (40-50 degrees F)
Arugula (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa)
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica)
Mustard Greens (Brassica juncea)
Pak Choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis)
Peas (Pisum sativum)
Radishes (Raphanus sativus)
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at Cold Temperatures (40-50 degrees F)
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Delphinium (Delphinium spp.)
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)
Larkspur (Consolida spp.)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Seeds that Germinate at Cool Temperatures (50-65 degrees F)
Some seeds germinate at temperatures within the range of 50-65 degrees Fahrenheit. These cool-tolerant seeds prefer milder conditions, making them suitable for seed starting during the cooler months of spring and fall.
In warmer growing zones, such as 9-12, these seeds can normally be planted and grown over the winter.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at Cool Temperatures (50-65 degrees F)
Beets (Beta vulgaris)
Carrots (Daucus carota)
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
Mesclun Mix (Lepidium sativum, Eruca vesicaria, and others)
Mizuna (Brassica rapa var. japonica)
Radicchio (Cichorium intybus)
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at Cool Temperatures (50-65 degrees F)
Alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila paniculata)
Clarkia (Clarkia spp.)
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)
Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)
Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Seeds that Germinate at Moderate Temperatures (65-75 degrees F)
Moderate temperature conditions ranging from 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for the germination of most garden seeds.
These seeds thrive in mild, favorable temperatures. In Zones 9-12, we generally plant these seeds under cover to plant out right after the last frost date, before it becomes too hot.
We also frequently start them indoors in the summer to plant out once temperatures drop in the fall.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at Moderate Temperatures (65-75 degrees F)
Corn (Zea mays)
Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus)
Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
Melons (Cucumis spp.)
Peppers (Capsicum spp.)
Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo)
Squash (Cucurbita spp.)
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at Moderate Temperatures (65-75 degrees F)
Four O’Clock (Mirabilis jalapa)
Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.)
Gazania (Gazania spp.)
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.)
Petunias (Petunia spp.)
Poppies (Papaver spp.)
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus)
Seeds that Germinate at High Temperatures (75-90 degrees F)
Plants from tropical and subtropical regions of the world often germinate best at much warmer conditions. Their optimal germination temperatures range from 75 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
In Zones 9-12, we can sow these seeds directly in the garden in the early summer through early fall. They can also be started outside but should be kept under cover such as an awning to protect them from being flooded out by heavy rain or scorched by the summer sun.
Many of these plants are the few we can grow successfully through the summer in Florida. So, it’s worthwhile learning about these varieties and how to use them in your garden and your menu.
Vegetable Seeds that Germinate at High Temperatures (75-90 degrees F)
Flower Seeds that Germinate at High Temperatures (75-90 degrees F)
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Celosia (Celosia spp.)
Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa)
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.)
Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea)
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus)
Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)
How to Nick and Soak Seeds to Improve Germination
Seeds with tough outer coverings often require some help stepping out of their shells. You can nick the casing and soak them to speed up germination when seed starting these types.
Step 1: Gather Materials
Gather the seeds you wish to nick and soak. Ensure they are seeds that require scarification (nicking) or soaking for enhanced germination.
Step 2: Prepare the Nicking Tools
Use a pair of sharp scissors, a nail file, or sandpaper to nick the seed coat. Sterilize the tools with rubbing alcohol before use to prevent the spread of pathogens.
Step 3: Nicking the Seeds
Hold the seed firmly but gently with your fingers or tweezers to avoid damaging the embryo.
Locate the seed’s opposite end from the hilum (scar) where it was attached to the parent plant.
Make a small, shallow cut or nick on the opposite end of the seed coat using the prepared tools.
The goal is to break through the hard outer layer without damaging the delicate inner part of the seed.
Step 4: Soaking the Seeds
After nicking the seeds, place them in a container suitable for soaking. Glass or plastic containers work well.
Fill the container with warm water, about 100 degrees F or so. It should feel slightly warmer than your skin temperature. Cover the seeds completely. Don’t use water that’s too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures may harm the seeds.
Let the seeds soak for the specified duration, which varies depending on the type of seeds. Some seeds may require only a few hours, while others may need overnight soaking.
Step 5: Monitor the Soaking Process
Keep a close eye on the seeds while soaking to prevent over-soaking. Different seeds have different soaking times, and excessive soaking can lead to seed damage or rot.
Step 6: Drain and Plant
Once the soaking time is up, remove any seeds that are floating in the water. They will likely not germinate
Drain the water from the container. Place the nicked and soaked seeds on a damp paper towel to remove excess moisture.
Plant the seeds immediately after nicking and soaking, following the recommended planting depth and spacing for each seed type.
Remember that not all seeds require nicking and soaking for successful germination. Generally, those with hard shells can be soaked prior to planting
However, make sure you research the specific germination requirements of each seed type before proceeding.
How to Cold Stratify Seeds
Seeds from plants native to cold climates or those with natural dormancy mechanisms may require cold stratification before planting.
Find a sealable plastic bag or airtight container. To this, add a small amount of moistened coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite to the container.
Then, place the seeds on top of the damp medium.
Seal the container and label it with the seed type and the date of stratification.
Place the sealed container in the refrigerator, where it should remain at a consistent temperature between 32 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
The duration of cold treatment varies depending on the seed type, so you’ll need to do some research on your specific seeds. Some require a few weeks while others require several months.
Check the container periodically to ensure the medium remains consistently moist. Add a few drops of filtered water if the medium seems too dry.
After the required cold stratification period, remove the seeds from the refrigerator and allow them to warm up gradually at room temperature for a few days.
You can then sow your cold-stratified seeds following the recommended planting depth and spacing for each seed type.
Cold stratification is a valuable technique for enhancing the germination of certain seeds. It mimics natural winter conditions and prepares seeds to sprout when the warmer temperatures of spring arrive.
Planting Depth and Its Impact on Successful Growing
Planting depth is a critical factor in seed germination and seedling establishment, as it directly influences various physiological processes in plants.
Understanding the scientific aspects of why planting depth matters can help gardeners make informed decisions to achieve optimal growth in their gardens.
Here’s a scientific perspective on the importance of planting depth and its impact on successful growing:
1. Soil Temperature and Moisture
Planting depth affects the soil temperature experienced by the seed. Seeds planted closer to the surface experience higher soil temperatures, promoting faster germination.
Deeper planting can result in cooler soil conditions, which may delay germination.
Additionally, proper planting depth allows seeds to access adequate soil moisture levels, which are essential for initiating metabolic activities and cellular processes during germination.
2. Seed Respiration and Oxygen Availability
During germination, seeds undergo respiration, a process that provides energy for growth.
Adequate oxygen availability is crucial for efficient respiration.
Shallow planting ensures better oxygen diffusion to the embryo, promoting healthier seedling development.
Deeper planting may reduce oxygen diffusion, leading to suboptimal respiration and potentially weak seedlings.
3. Photomorphogenesis and Light Perception
Photomorphogenesis is the process by which light influences plant growth and development. Some seeds exhibit photoblastic behavior, responding to light for germination.
Seeds that require light for germination (positive photoblastic) should be surface-sown to ensure they receive sufficient light.
On the other hand, seeds with negative photoblastic behavior, which require darkness for germination, should be planted at the appropriate depth to shield them from light.
4. Hypogeal and Epigeal Seedlings
Hypogeal and epigeal seedlings are terms used to describe two distinct types of seed germination and the initial stages of seedling development.
These terms highlight the differences in how seeds sprout and the subsequent growth patterns of emerging seedlings.
Understanding these concepts is crucial for successful gardening and plant propagation.
Hypogeal Seedlings
Hypogeal germination is characterized by the emergence of seedlings where the cotyledons, or embryonic seed leaves, remain below the soil surface.
In this type of germination, the cotyledons do not emerge above the ground but stay within the protective shell of the seed coat.
Instead, the epicotyl (the embryonic shoot) elongates and pushes the cotyledons and growing point above the soil.
Key Features of Hypogeal Germination
Cotyledons remain below ground.
Epicotyl elongates and emerges above the soil.
Cotyledons remain enclosed in the seed coat.
Typically observed in plants like beans, peas, and sunflowers.
Examples of Hypogeal Seedlings
Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris): Beans are a classic example of hypogeal germination. When a bean seed germinates, the cotyledons remain underground while the shoot (epicotyl) elongates and emerges above the soil. The cotyledons stay enclosed within the seed coat until the shoot reaches the surface.
Peas (Pisum sativum): Peas also exhibit hypogeal germination. As the pea seed germinates, the shoot pushes upward, bringing the growing point and cotyledons above the soil. However, the cotyledons themselves remain below ground, protected by the seed coat until the shoot emerges.
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus): Sunflowers demonstrate hypogeal germination. The shoot of the germinating sunflower seed elongates and emerges above the soil, while the cotyledons remain within the seed coat below ground.
Epigeal Seedlings
Epigeal germination, on the other hand, involves the emergence of seedlings where the cotyledons are lifted above the soil surface.
As the embryonic shoot elongates, it pushes the cotyledons and growing point upward, breaking through the soil.
Once exposed to light, the cotyledons expand and begin to perform photosynthesis.
Key Features of Epigeal Germination
Cotyledons emerge above ground.
Cotyledons expand and perform photosynthesis.
Hypocotyl (stem below cotyledons) remains short.
Common in plants like lettuce, cucumber, and sunflower.
Examples of Epigeal Seedlings
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa): Lettuce is an example of epigeal germination. In lettuce seeds, the cotyledons emerge above the soil surface as the shoot elongates. Once exposed to light, the cotyledons expand and start performing photosynthesis.
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus): Cucumber seeds undergo epigeal germination. The cotyledons of cucumber seedlings emerge above ground, and as they unfurl, they begin capturing light energy for photosynthesis.
Melons (Cucumis melo): Melons, such as watermelon and cantaloupe, also exhibit epigeal germination. The cotyledons break through the soil surface and become exposed to light, where they start their photosynthetic activity.
For hypogeal seedlings, it’s crucial to plant seeds at the right depth to ensure that the epicotyl can push through the soil.
For epigeal seedlings, proper exposure to light is essential for the development of healthy cotyledons.
Understanding these examples of hypogeal and epigeal germination provides insight into how different plants handle the initial stages of growth. This knowledge can guide gardeners in providing the appropriate care and conditions for various types of seedlings.
5. Root Elongation and Establishment
The depth at which seeds are planted affects root growth and establishment.
Shallow planting encourages early root elongation near the soil surface, allowing seedlings to access surface nutrients effectively.
Deeper planting promotes downward root growth and establishment in search of deeper water and nutrient resources.
6. Seed Coat Integrity and Imbibition
Planting depth can impact seed coat integrity and imbibition (absorption of water by seeds).
Shallow planting minimizes the risk of seed coat damage during germination, enabling optimal water uptake by the seed.
7. Seedling Competition and Spacing
Proper planting depth helps maintain adequate spacing between seedlings. Appropriate spacing reduces competition for resources such as light, water, and nutrients, ensuring healthier individual plant growth.
8. How to Determine How Deep to Plant Seeds
Planting seeds at the appropriate depth is crucial for successful germination and seedling establishment.
The ideal planting depth varies depending on the size of the seed and its germination requirements.
Here are a few ways to determine the proper planting depth for different seeds:
Research the Seed: It often helps to read the seed packet, but additional research is a good idea.
Consider Seed Size: As a general rule, smaller seeds are typically planted at shallower depths, while larger seeds can be sown deeper.
Small seeds, like lettuce or petunias, may require only a light covering of soil or none at all.
Larger seeds, such as beans or squash, may need to be planted at a deeper depth.
Observe the Seed Shape: Some seeds have distinct shapes that influence planting depth. For example, flat seeds, like sunflower seeds, should be sown horizontally at a depth equal to their width.
Rounded seeds, like peas, are often sown at a depth two to three times their diameter.
Follow Recommendations: Pay attention to any specific recommendations provided for the seed variety you’re planting.
Some seeds, particularly those that require light for germination, should not be buried and should be surface-sown instead.
Soil Type Considerations: In heavy or clayey soils, it’s essential not to plant seeds too deep, as this can hinder seedling emergence.
In loose or sandy soils, consider planting slightly deeper to ensure adequate moisture retention.
Watering Considerations: Keep in mind that seeds planted too deep may struggle to reach the surface, and their access to moisture may be limited.
Planting at the correct depth ensures that seedlings can emerge and access essential water and nutrients after germination.
When to Start Seeds
Understanding the ideal timing for seed starting is crucial for successful gardening. Properly aligning seed sowing with the distinct growth preferences of warm-season and cool-season crops is essential to achieve robust and thriving plants.
What Are Warm Season Crops?
Warm-season crops flourish in the warmth of the spring through fall growing season. These crops, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash, exhibit specific characteristics that make them well-suited for the elevated temperatures of these seasons.
Characteristics of Warm Season Crops
Warm season crops require temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C) for optimal germination and growth. They thrive when exposed to abundant sunlight and have a longer growing cycle.
Requirements of Warm Season Crops
These crops need well-draining soil, ample sunlight (8-10 hours daily), and regular moisture. They are sensitive to frost, requiring careful timing for both indoor and direct sowing.
Seed Starting Times for Warm Season Crops
Indoors: Around 6-8 weeks before the anticipated planting months, aligning with the end of winter or early spring.
In Zones 9-12, we frequently start warm-season crops indoors in late December through January for planting out after the last frost date in February or March.
We also start seeds indoors or undercover in the late summer for planting out during the milder months of September and October after the heat of summer has worn down.
Outdoors: When the danger of frost has passed and temperatures consistently stay within the preferred range.
Examples of Warm Season Crops
Tomatoes
Peppers
Cucumbers
Squash (zucchini, butternut, etc.)
Eggplant
Okra
Watermelon
Cantaloupe
Pumpkin
Sweet potatoes
Corn
Beans (pole beans, lima beans, etc.)
Peanuts
Sunflowers
What Are Cool Season Crops?
Cool-season crops thrive in the moderate temperatures of fall and early spring.
These crops, including lettuce, spinach, carrots, and peas, possess unique attributes that enable them to flourish during the cooler months.
Characteristics of Cool Season Crops
Cool season crops tolerate temperatures within the range of 40-70°F (4-21°C) and often have a shorter growth cycle. They can endure light frosts and have rapid growth.
Requirements of Cool Season Crops
These crops thrive with well-drained soil, moderate sunlight (6-8 hours daily), and regular moisture. They can withstand cooler temperatures and even benefit from them.
Sowing Times for Cool Season Crops
Indoors: Begin around 6-10 weeks before the desired planting months, aligning with the end of summer or early fall.
In Zones 8-12, we can start many of these indoors or undercover during the late summer or early fall. Because of our mild winters, we can generally plant cool-season crops throughout the fall and winter, ending only in spring around late March.
Outdoors: Plan for direct sowing during the milder months of fall through early spring, avoiding extreme heat.
Examples of Cool Season Crops
Lettuce
Spinach
Kale
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Radishes
Peas
Swiss chard
Beets
Turnips
Onions
Garlic
What are Long-Season Crops?
Long-season crops encompass plant varieties that require an extended period to reach maturity and produce a harvest.
These crops demand a substantial growing season to develop fully, making them a strategic choice for gardeners in Zones 8-12 who have the luxury of extended warm weather.
Characteristics of Long-Season Crops
Long-season crops are marked by their slower growth rate and longer time to maturity. They often necessitate consistent warmth and a lengthy frost-free period to thrive.
Requirements of Long-Season Crops
These crops typically require well-draining soil, abundant sunlight, and regular moisture. The extended growing period allows them to develop deep root systems and produce bountiful yields.
Sowing Times for Long-Season Crops
Indoors: Start sowing seeds around 8-10 weeks before the projected planting months, aligning with the onset of the growing season.
You may need to pot these up after 6 to 8 weeks to provide adequate growing space.
Outdoors: Plan for direct sowing when the danger of frost has passed, and temperatures remain consistently warm.
Examples of Long-Season Crops
Tomatoes
Eggplant
Peppers
Melons (muskmelon, cantaloupe)
Winter squash (acorn, butternut)
Pumpkins
Sweet potatoes
Corn
Beans (pole beans)
Okra
What are Short-Season Crops?
Short-season crops are characterized by their ability to mature and yield within a shorter timeframe.
This often makes them quite suitable for the challenging subtropical conditions of Zones 8-12. Their fast growth rate allows you to get a harvest before it gets too hot or the pest pressure becomes overwhelming.
Characteristics of Short-Season Crops
Short-season crops have a quicker growth cycle, allowing them to complete their lifecycle before extreme weather conditions set in. They are often adaptable and can be grown as a reliable source of fresh produce.
Requirements of Short-Season Crops
These crops necessitate well-drained soil, moderate sunlight, and regular moisture. Their accelerated growth allows them to efficiently utilize available resources.
Seed Starting Times for Short-Season Crops
Indoors: Commence seed sowing approximately 4-6 weeks before the targeted planting months.
Because of their fast growth rate, it’s a good idea to sow seeds in succession. Planting another cell pack of seeds every two or three weeks allows you to plug in your small starters as space opens up in the garden.
You can use them for underplanting or filling in empty spaces. Or you can simply replace exhausted annuals in the garden.
Outdoors: Direct sow seeds when outdoor temperatures provide favorable conditions for germination and growth.
Again, succession seed starting is your friend. For many of these crops, you can direct sow in any empty spots in the garden for a quick harvest.
Examples of Short-Season Crops
Lettuce (leaf and butterhead varieties)
Spinach
Radishes
Carrots (early varieties)
Beets
Green onions
Peas
Bush beans
Turnips
Swiss chard
Planning for Big Harvests and Garden Abundance.
Understanding the distinct characteristics and growth requirements of warm season, cool season, long-season, and short-season crops equips gardeners with invaluable insights for effective garden planning.
This knowledge empowers gardeners to make informed decisions on when to start your seeds, optimizing their gardening efforts for successful yields and a thriving garden ecosystem.
By applying this understanding, gardeners can:
Optimize Seed Starting Times
Gardeners can confidently initiate seed starting activities at the appropriate times, aligning with the unique temperature preferences of each crop.
This ensures that seedlings develop robustly and are ready for transplanting when outdoor conditions are favorable.
Maximize Space Utilization
Armed with knowledge of crop growth duration, gardeners can strategically allocate garden space to accommodate the varying needs of long-season and short-season crops. This efficient space utilization enhances overall garden productivity.
Extend Growing Seasons
Gardeners can take advantage of the subtropical climate in Zones 8-12 by two growing seasons by selecting a combination of warm season and cool season crops.
This enables continuous harvests throughout the year, capitalizing on both spring and fall gardening opportunities.
Plan Crop Successions
Understanding the distinct timelines for different crop types empowers gardeners to plan successive plantings. As one crop nears maturity, gardeners can prepare to replace it with a different crop, ensuring a constant supply of fresh produce.
Mitigate Climate Challenges
Knowledge of the climate-appropriate crops allows gardeners to navigate challenges posed by subtropical conditions. By choosing short-season crops during periods of extreme heat, gardeners can ensure a successful harvest without being adversely affected by temperature fluctuations.
Enhance Biodiversity
Gardeners can foster biodiversity by incorporating a mix of warm season and cool season crops, as well as long-season and short-season varieties. This diversity attracts beneficial insects, improves soil health, and promotes a balanced garden ecosystem.
Promote Soil Health
By strategically rotating warm season and cool season crops, gardeners can prevent soil depletion and maintain optimal soil health. Different crop types have varied nutrient demands, reducing the risk of nutrient imbalances.
Seed Starting Basics: How to Start Every Type of Seed
Starting seeds in seed tray cells, soil blocks, or individual pots is a practical and efficient way to kickstart your garden.
By starting them in a controlled environment, you can ensure that only healthy plant starts end up in your garden.
If you have little space to work with, seed starting in small containers is the most efficient way to use your limited garden space.
Starting Small Seeds
Small seeds, such as those of herbs and flowers, require special care during germination due to their delicate nature.
Follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure successful germination and healthy growth of small seeds in seed tray cells:
Step 1: Select the Right Seed Tray
Choose a seed tray with small individual cells. These cells provide ample space for each seed to germinate without crowding.
Step 2: Fill Seed Tray with Growing Medium
Fill the seed tray cells with a high-quality, sterile seed-starting mix. The mix should be light, well-draining, and rich in nutrients to support early seedling growth.
Step 3: Moisten the Growing Medium
Gently water the seed-starting mix until it is uniformly moist. Avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to seed rot.
Step 4: Sow the Small Seeds
Carefully sow one to two small seeds per cell, following the recommended planting depth for each seed type. Use a toothpick or tweezers to handle small seeds delicately.
If using old seeds or multi-sowing, you can drop two or three or four seeds per compartment.
Step 5: Cover the Seeds (Optional)
Some small seeds require darkness for germination, while others benefit from exposure to light.
Refer to seed packets or reliable gardening references to determine whether covering the seeds with a thin layer of vermiculite or seed-starting mix is necessary.
Step 6: Label the Seed Tray
Use plant labels to identify the seeds sown in each cell. Proper labeling ensures easy identification as seeds germinate and grow.
Step 7: Provide Bottom Heat (Optional)
To encourage germination, consider placing the seed tray on a heating mat or a warm surface. Bottom heat can improve germination rates for some small seeds.
This may be unnecessary in Zones 9-12, although you may want to start seeds indoors during the winter months to ensure consistent temperatures provided by your home heating system.
Step 8: Provide Adequate Moisture
Place the seed tray in a shallow tray filled with water to allow for bottom watering. Ensure that the seed-starting mix remains consistently moist, but not waterlogged.
Step 9: Cover the Seed Tray (Optional)
Cover the seed tray with a clear plastic dome or plastic wrap to create a mini greenhouse effect. This helps retain moisture and humidity for optimal germination.
Step 10: Place the Seed Tray in a Warm Location
Position the seed tray in a warm location with consistent temperatures suitable for germination.
A bright windowsill or indirect light on a covered porch can provide enough light for those that require light to germinate.
Step 11: Monitor Germination and Remove Cover
Keep a close eye on the seed tray for signs of germination. Once the seeds start sprouting, remove the cover to prevent mold growth and provide better air circulation.
For most plants, you’ll need to ensure that the new sprouts receive some light. Even seeds that require darkness to germinate will require sunlight once they’ve broken the surface.
Step 12: Thin Seedlings (If Needed)
If more than one seed germinates in a cell, gently thin the seedlings to leave only the healthiest one to grow.
You won’t want to do this if you’re multi-sowing, however.
Seed Starting for Large Seeds
Starting large seeds in soil blocks or pots provides ample space and nutrients for robust seedling development.
Large seeds, such as those of melons, cucumbers, and beans, benefit from a more substantial growing medium during germination. They grow so quickly that they’ll outgrow a smaller container before they’re ready to plant out.
Some plants benefit from up to three months of supervised cultivation before planting out, including tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.
These long-season annuals are best planted once they’re well developed. To avoid stressing them with constant transplanting into larger containers, start with large soil blocks or small pots for germination.
Step 1: Choose the Right Containers
Select suitable containers for starting large seeds. Opt for individual pots or soil blocks with sufficient space to accommodate the size of the seeds and allow for root growth.
Step 2: Prepare the Growing Medium
Use a well-draining, nutrient-rich potting mix suitable for seed starting. Fill the containers with the growing medium, leaving about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) space from the rim for easy watering.
Step 3: Water the Growing Medium
Moisten the potting mix thoroughly to ensure even moisture distribution. Avoid overwatering, as large seeds may rot in excessively wet conditions.
Step 4: Sow Seeds
Plant one large seed per pot or soil block. You can plant two per block when using old seeds.
Place the seed on top of the growing medium at the recommended planting depth for each specific seed type.
Step 5: Cover the Seeds
Cover the seeds with the recommended depth of soil mix.
Step 6: Label the Containers
Label each container or tray of soil blocks with the name of the plant variety to avoid confusion as the seedlings grow.
It’s also useful to add the date to your tags. This allows you to plan for succession crops based on the time to germinate.
Step 7: Provide Bottom Heat (Optional)
If starting in an unheated room during winter, using a heating mat or placing the containers on a warm surface encourages germination.
Step 8: Maintain Adequate Moisture
Keep the potting mix consistently moist by bottom watering the containers. Avoid overhead watering, which may dislodge the large seeds or create uneven moisture levels.
Step 9: Monitor Germination and Adjust Light
Keep a close eye on the containers for signs of germination. Once seedlings emerge, provide adequate light to ensure healthy growth.
Adjust the position of the containers to prevent leggy seedlings.
Step 10: Transplant Seedlings (If Needed)
As the seedlings grow, they’ll develop true leaves and become crowded in their pots. If the conditions in the garden aren’t optimal yet, consider transplanting them to larger containers or individual pots for further growth.
Step 11: Harden Off Seedlings
Before transplanting the seedlings outdoors, gradually expose them to outdoor conditions over several days. This process, called hardening off, prepares the seedlings for the change in environment.
How to Direct Sow Small Seeds in the Garden
Direct sowing small seeds in the garden allows for a natural and straightforward approach to gardening.
Whether you’re growing vegetables, herbs, or delicate flowers, direct sowing is the easiest method for many plant species.
I personally prefer seed starting in blocks or cells first, but if you’re establishing a wildflower meadow or looking to create large swathes of bedding annuals, direct sowing really is the most straightforward method.
Direct Sowing Small Seeds
Follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure successful germination and growth when direct seed starting small seeds in the garden:
Step 1: Choose the Right Location
Select a garden location that receives the appropriate amount of sunlight for the specific plant species you’re sowing. Consider factors like soil drainage and exposure to wind when choosing the site.
Step 2: Prepare the Soil
Clear the area of any weeds, rocks, or debris. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) using a garden fork or trowel. Rake the soil surface to create a smooth, level bed for sowing.
Adding a layer of compost or mixing some composted manure into the first inch or two of soil will help provide a good environment for your seeds to grow.
Alternatively, many wildflower seeds prefer poor soil condition, so don’t provide any garden amendments for these hardy troopers.
Step 3: Sow the Small Seeds
Gently sprinkle the small seeds evenly over the prepared soil surface. Follow the recommended planting depth and spacing for each seed type.
For very tiny seeds, mix them with fine sand or vermiculite to help distribute them more evenly.
Step 4: Cover the Seeds
Depending on the seed type, consider covering the seeds with a thin layer of fine soil, vermiculite, or compost. Some small seeds benefit from being exposed to light for germination, so do not cover them if indicated.
Step 5: Water the Seeded Area
After sowing, water the area gently to settle the soil and ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Avoid heavy watering, as it may dislodge the small seeds or cause them to clump together.
Step 6: Monitor Moisture Levels
Keep the seeded area consistently moist until germination occurs. Use a fine mist or a gentle watering can to avoid disturbing the seeds.
Step 7: Thin Seedlings (If Needed)
Once seedlings emerge and grow their first true leaves, thin them out if they appear crowded. This step ensures each seedling has sufficient space to develop properly. Consult the instructions on your seed packet for plant spacing.
Step 8: Mulch the Area (Optional)
Once seeds have germinated, been thinned, and have developed several sets of true leaves, consider applying a thin layer of organic mulch around the seedlings. This will conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and help to maintain an even soil temperature.
How to Direct Sow Large Seeds in the Garden
Direct sowing large seeds in the garden is a simple and efficient way to grow a variety of plants.
Although I generally recommend seed starting in blocks or cell trays and then planting out, species with deep tap roots, hypersensitive roots, or those that grow extremely quickly can be direct sown.
Whether you’re planting beans, squash, or sunflowers, follow these step-by-step instructions to ensure successful direct sowing of large seeds in your garden:
Step 1: Choose the Right Location
Select a sunny location in your garden with well-draining soil. Ensure that the chosen spot provides ample space for the large plants to grow.
If seed starting for climbers or vines, it’s a good idea to install your trellis or support structure before sowing your seeds.
This 1) prevents any damage done to delicate seedlings by trying to install the support after it has started growing. And 2) Allows you to better eyeball plant spacing by using the trellis or support as a measure.
Step 2: Prepare the Soil
Clear the area of any weeds, rocks, or debris. Decide where you’ll be planting each seed and cover each location with several inches of compost
If your soil is highly compacted, you can loosen the soil to a depth of about 4-6 inches in each location. We generally recommend no-dig methods and try to avoid disturbing the structure and living organisms below the soil surface.
Step 3: Sow the Large Seeds
Poke a hole to the depth recommended for the seeds and sow them directly into the prepared space.
Step 4: Cover and Firm the Soil
After sowing, cover over with the loose compost you provided. Firm the soil or compost over the seeds gently with your hands.
Step 5: Water the Seeded Area
Water the seeded area thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil around the seeds. Adequate watering is essential for proper germination.
Step 6: Monitor Moisture Levels
Keep the seeded area consistently moist until germination occurs. Regularly check the soil moisture and water as needed, especially during dry spells.
Step 7: Thin Seedlings (If Needed)
Once the large seedlings emerge and grow their first true leaves, thin them out if they are too close together. Thinning allows each seedling to have enough space to develop and access sunlight and nutrients.
Step 8: Feed and Mulch Your Plants
Once plants are a few inches high and have developed several sets of true leaves, you can apply vegetable fertilizer and mulch around the seedlings.
Consider applying a slow-release organic vegetable fertilizer or organic compost to support the growth of your plants. These once-a-month or once-a-season amendments can really save you many hours of hard work in the garden.
Water fertilizer or compost in well after application and then proceed to mulching.
Mulch can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool enough to support the beneficial microbiological organisms that plants need for healthy growth.
Consider straw or hay for mulching vegetable beds.
Wood chips are an excellent mulch for perennial plants, but don’t break down quickly enough for annual plantings and may interfere with your plants in future seasons.
Common Problems in Seed Starting, Prevention, and Remedies
Starting seeds can be a rewarding endeavor, but it is not without its challenges. Gardeners may encounter various problems during the seed starting process, leading to germination failure or stunted seedling growth.
Here is a list of common problems that may occur when starting seeds, along with their symptoms and remedies:
1. Problem: Poor Germination
Symptoms: Low percentage of seeds germinating or seeds failing to sprout.
Remedies: Ensure seeds are fresh and not expired. If you decide to use old seed up, double up on the number you plant.
Make sure the temperature is right for your seed type. You can find a chart of optimal temperatures on our website here.
You may have over-covered seeds that require light to germinate. Sometimes, seed packets lie and I’ve seen many that say to plant seeds ½ deep that won’t germinate without sunlight. Do some additional research on your seeds to be sure.
Avoid overwatering. This can cause seeds to rot before they can sprout.
2. Problem: Damping Off
Symptoms: Seedlings appearing weak, wilting, and collapsing at the soil level due to fungal infection.
Remedies: Use sterile potting mix and clean containers.
Improve air circulation around seedlings to reduce humidity.
Avoid overwatering and allow the soil surface to dry between watering.
3. Problem: Leggy Seedlings
Symptoms: Seedlings with elongated and weak stems reaching for light, often resulting from insufficient light or crowded conditions.
Remedies: Provide adequate light to seedlings, either with grow lights or by placing them in a sunny location. Thin out seedlings to allow ample space for each to grow.
In some cases, particularly tomatoes and peppers, you can salvage leggy seedlings by replanting them deeply into a larger container.
4. Problem: Seedlings Turning Yellow
Symptoms: Seedlings showing yellowing of leaves, usually due to nutrient deficiencies or overwatering.
Remedies: Although most seeds contain enough nutrients to support the initial growth of the seedlings, you may run into a nutrient deficiency if the seedling is in the cell too long.
You can use some dilute balanced liquid fertilizer when bottom watering.
To prevent this from happening, pot up your seedlings into larger containers sooner than later.
Yellowing may also be caused by overwatering. Bottom water with a very diluted fertilizer and allow the cells or pots surface to dry out before watering again.
5. Problem: Seedlings Growing Slowly
Symptoms: Seedlings not showing significant growth over time, possibly due to poor soil quality or low temperatures.
Remedies: Ensure the growing environment is warm enough to support seedling growth. Add a heat mat or move trays to a warmer location.
6. Problem: Fungal or Bacterial Diseases
Symptoms: Seedlings displaying discoloration, wilting, or lesions caused by fungal or bacterial infections.
Remedies: Remove affected seedlings promptly and destroy them.
Improve air circulation and avoid overcrowding to reduce disease spread. Use sterilized containers and tools.
Often, seed trays can show signs of algae growth on the tops. This is usually caused by exposure to sunlight when damp and is relatively harmless. The green sheen on top of your seed trays is annoying and unsightly, but it’s usually no detriment to the plant.
7. Problem: Insect Pests
Symptoms: Seedlings showing signs of pest infestations, such as chewed leaves or visible insects.
Remedies: Monitor seedlings regularly for pests and take appropriate measures, such as handpicking or using organic insecticides, to manage infestations.
If starting seeds outside, you may even find rodents digging into your seed trays to collect species like sunflowers, melons, or squash seeds. Cover seed trays with sturdy covers at night. You can also move them to a protected spot (like indoors) until they have sprouted to prevent this problem.
8. Problem: Lack of Hardening Off
Symptoms: Seedlings showing shock when transplanted outdoors due to insufficient acclimatization.
Remedies: Gradually expose seedlings to outdoor conditions for a few hours each day over several days before transplanting, a process known as hardening off.
If possible, transplant your young seedling during a cloudy day, especially if there’s rain in the forecast. I find this helps them transition to outdoor garden life much better.
9. Problem: Overcrowding
Symptoms: Seedlings growing closely together, leading to competition for resources and weak growth.
Remedies: It’s tough, but it has to be done. Thin out seedlings to provide adequate space for each plant to grow and develop.
10. Problem: Insufficient Watering
Symptoms: Seedlings showing signs of wilting or dry soil due to inadequate watering.
Remedies: Water seedlings consistently and ensure the soil remains evenly moist without becoming waterlogged.
FAQ
When is the best time to start seeds?
For successful seed starting in gardening Zones 8-12, there are generally two good times to start seeds. The first is four to six weeks before the last frost date in the spring for planting out in February and March. The second is in late summer in July and for planting out in September and October. This will vary depending on whether you’re planting warm season or short season crops.
Why should you start seeds indoors?
Starting seeds indoors in Zones 8-12 offers several benefits. It extends the growing season, giving delicate crops like tomatoes and peppers a head start before planting out. It also provides a controlled environment for germination, out of excessive heat and heavy rainfall.
Where is the best place to start seeds indoors?
In Zones 8-12, where warm and humid conditions prevail, the best location to start seeds indoors is a well-ventilated area with consistent warmth and ample sunlight. Choose a spot that receives abundant natural light or use grow lights. Be cautious not to overheat the seedlings. Adequate airflow is essential to prevent fungal issues, so ensure good ventilation while keeping the humidity in check.
How many seeds per starter pot should you sow?
When seed starting, it’s essential to strike a balance between providing adequate space for each seedling’s growth and maximizing your planting efficiency. Generally, aim to sow 2-3 seeds per starter pot, ensuring a higher likelihood of successful germination. If using old seeds from earlier seasons, consider sowing 3 to 4 seeds. This approach accounts for potential variations in seed viability and helps ensure at least one healthy seedling per pot. Once seedlings develop their first true leaves, you can carefully thin out the weaker seedlings, leaving the strongest ones to continue growing.
How many lumens for seed starting should a grow light have?
When using grow lights for seed starting, it’s important to provide your seedlings with the optimal amount of light to promote healthy growth. For most vegetable and flower seedlings, aim for a grow light that provides around 1000 to 1500 lumens per square foot. This light intensity mimics the brightness of natural sunlight and encourages sturdy stem development and vibrant leaf growth.
When do you begin starting fall seeds in Zones 8-12?
In Zones 8-12, the timing for starting fall seeds varies based on the type of seed you’re growing. In general, you’ll sow warm-season crops in late summer to plant out in the fall. You’ll sow warm-season crops again from late December through January to plant out after your last frost date.
For cool season crops, you can start seeds indoors in late summer and plant out from October through March as the weather allows. Most cool season crops can be planted in Zones 8-12 throughout the winter.
How many hours of light do seeds need to germinate?
Seeds require varying amounts of light for germination, depending on the plant species and its specific light preferences. In general, many seeds benefit from around 12-16 hours of light per day during the germination process. Remember that some seeds require darkness to germinate and should be covered or placed in a dark environment during this phase.
What are the 4 requirements for seed germination?
The four primary requirements for seed germination are water, proper temperature, oxygen, and suitable soil or growing medium. These factors work in conjunction to trigger the biochemical processes necessary for a seed to break dormancy, swell, and initiate growth.
Which seeds need light to germinate?
Seeds that require light for germination include lettuce, spinach, arugula, kale, radish, cilantro, dill, nasturtium, calendula, zinnia, sweet alyssum, and pansy. Providing these seeds with exposure to light during germination is essential for their successful sprouting and subsequent growth.
What not to do when germinating seeds?
When seed starting, it’s important to avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to fungal growth and rot. Additionally, refrain from planting seeds too deeply, as they may struggle to reach the surface. Avoid using contaminated soil, as it can hinder germination. Finally, placing seeds in an area with insufficient light or incorrect temperature can delay or prevent germination.
How do you know when a seed is germinating?
You can identify germination by observing the emergence of the seedling from the growing medium. As the seed absorbs water and swells, the outer shell cracks, and a tiny shoot, called the radicle, emerges. This initial growth is followed by the emergence of the seedling’s first leaves, called cotyledons.
How do you know if seeds are too old?
Seeds that are too old may exhibit reduced germination rates or fail to germinate altogether. You can assess seed viability by performing a simple germination test. Place a specific number of seeds on a damp paper towel, seal it in a plastic bag, and keep it in a warm location for the recommended time period. Afterward, count the number of seeds that have sprouted. If a significant percentage fails to germinate, it indicates reduced viability.
Which is the best seed starting mix?
We recommend a blend of coconut coir, perlite, compost, and a slow-release fertilizer that contains beneficial mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria. You can purchase a commercial blend like ProMix, or make your own. Avoid heavy garden soil or potting mixes, as they can impede seedling development.
How do I make my own seed starting mix?
A basic recipe includes mixing together coconut coir and perlite in equal parts. To make a larger batch, use a bucket or large container and thoroughly blend the ingredients until well combined. Optionally, you can add a small amount of finely screened compost or vermicompost for added nutrients. we also recommend adding a slow-release fertilizer for seed starting in small pots or soil blocks where the plants will remain for many weeks before planting out. This DIY mix offers a cost-effective and customizable solution for starting seeds, ensuring a suitable medium for germination and early growth.
What is a good recipe for soil block mix?
Mix the following components thoroughly to create a peat-free soil block mix. Coconut coir serves as an environmentally friendly alternative to peat moss, providing adequate moisture retention and aeration. It also adds structure to the soil block mix to ensure they hold together. Compost adds nutrients to support seedling growth, while vermiculite and perlite contribute to proper drainage and texture. This peat-free mix offers a sustainable option for starting seeds in soil blocks, promoting healthy germination and early development.
If you’ve been paying attention to the weather forecast, it’s likely that the last thing on your mind is what to plant in July in Florida. The heat indexes have easily been in the triple digits, and the rainfall reports are way down.
The good news is that if you’re just as addicted to gardening as I am, there are a few things you can do to feed that urge, even in all this heat.
That’s right, Florida gardeners — it’s July! It’s not time to get back into the garden quite yet, but it IS time to start collecting supplies and sowing seeds indoors and under cover.
It’s time to get ready for the fall garden. Start stocking up on your favorite seeds and get cracking. It’s go time.
It’s Time to Get Seeding!
We had a ridiculously cold winter and a frighteningly dry spring. It’s even been a dry summer.
While you may have given up on your tomatoes months ago, you can certainly try again now.
While you can grow nearly anything between September and December in Florida (at least Central and South Florida), the time to start long-season crops is right now.
Tomato Time
Start tomato seeds in mid-July through Mid August in order to plant out into the garden or containers in September.
You’ll want to be sure that the temperatures have dropped low enough that tomatoes can flower and form fruit, so keep an eye on the weather.
The best way to be ready to have well-developed plants to add to the garden as early as feasible is to start them indoors in July.
You can grow your seedlings under cover and pot them up as they grow for up to three months if necessary. In containers, you can better control their exposure to scalding sun and downpouring rains.
We’ll be selling a new line of vegetable starters suited for Florida gardens in our nursery. If you’re not nearby, we invite you to check out our seeds for sale. We’ve curated the best varieties for the hot & humid Southeastern states, Gulf Coast region, and blistering hot Southwest garden.
And all of our tomato seeds come with a free pack of companion French Marigolds, because we know the tragedy that is root knot nematodes.
Peppers
Everyone loves peppers because they’re easy to grow, come in a wide variety of colors, and have different flavor profiles for a range worldwide cusines.
But boy, can they be lazy.
Peppers can take forever to take off. I don’t know how many times I’ve stared pointedly at cell trays of peppers wondering whether to even bother misting them after two weeks.
Because they do take some time to get going, start them now so you’ll have time to plant them out as early as possible.
They don’t like the cold at all, so if we get another chilly December, it will be nice to get some sweet bells before then.
Check out our California Wonder pepper seeds to plant in July in soil blocks or cells.
Protecting Your Seedlings
Sowing under cover in Florida isn’t an issue of protecting delicate seedlings from the cold. Here, it’s a matter of preventing them from getting washed out by heavy rainstorms.
Starting seeds out of the elements can help keep them from burning up when the heat index is in the triple digits and even your hot peppers are getting scalded.
Whether you start them on a patio, lanai, or indoors, make sure they get plenty of light once the seeds germinate.
Since the long-season peppers and tomatoes like to germinate in warm temperatures, keep your seed starting trays somewhere where they’ll stay at a minimum of 75°F.
They’ll also need some airflow, which not only reduces the chance of dampening off but also stimulates the growth of strong, sturdy stems.
What Else to Plant in July in Florida?
Along with starting your Fall crops by seed, there are also a few heat-loving veggies you can direct sow. Summer is great for planting Okra and Southern Peas. If you’re not a big fan of black-eyed peas or cowpeas, you can also sow them as cover crops to improve your soil for fall planting out.
If you’ve already sown or purchased starts of tropical vegetables or Mediterranean herbs, you can add them to your garden. You’ll find exotic veggies like Okinawa spinach or Longevity spinach at many Florida nurseries. We sell Okinawa spinach starts too.
Make sure your Mediterranean herbs have plenty of drainage, as they can get root rot from our persistent (and seemingly unending) rainfall.
And don’t forget to plant flowers! Many annual flowers you can add to the garden will attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help nurture and protect your crops. Some will grow and bloom in just 60 to 75 days. Quick-growing annual flowers add beauty and diversity to your garden, and many provide critical root exudates for your soil.
Start your broccoli and tomato plants in late July in Central and South Florida.
Here’s what you can start sowing in July in Florida, as well as other Gulf Coast states in the U.S>
South Florida (Zones 10 to 11)
If you’re in South Florida, and some parts of coastal Central Florida, the weather is steaming, even dangerous.
However, it changes fast, so it’s a good idea to be ready with healthy vegetable plants starts so you’re ready to plant out in September.
Scarlet Sage loves the heat and will draw in bees and hummingbirds to your garden.
Pace Yourself When Gardening in Florida in July
Don’t try to start everything at once. Remember, it’s still very hot out there, and it looks like it will stay dry. So, no regular summer storms to cool things off a bit. There’s still a risk of heat exhaustion and skin damage from UV rays.
The wonderful thing about gardening in Florida is our mild autumn and the length of our growing season. Start with vegetables that take the longest time to mature, such as tomatoes and peppers. In Central and South Florida, you can usually plant these out as late as October and overwinter them by covering them on cold nights.
I’m never happy to see the days get shorter, but I’m always excited for the Fall gardening season. To make the most of it, you can get many of your vegetables and flowers started in July.
If you’re a Florida gardener dreaming of growing your own tropical fruit paradise, look no further than the magnificent banana plant. With their lush foliage and delicious fruit, bananas can thrive in Florida’s subtropical climate. Let’s explore the best varieties suited for each zone, share valuable tips on growing conditions, soil requirements, and planting times, and find out more about how to grow bananas in Florida.
Ornamental vs. Edible Bananas
Before we delve into the specifics, it’s important to distinguish between ornamental and edible bananas. While both types offer stunning foliage, ornamental varieties produce inedible or barely edible fruit. To truly enjoy the flavor and sweetness of homegrown bananas, opt for edible varieties specifically bred for fruit production.
It’s important to note that while these ornamental varieties add visual interest to gardens, their fruit is either inedible or of very poor quality. Therefore, for those looking to grow bananas for their delicious fruit, it’s essential to select edible banana varieties specifically bred for fruit production.
Here are some varieties to avoid if you’re hoping for a harvest:
Musa ornata: Known for its vibrant pink inflorescence and attractive dark green leaves with red midribs, this ornamental banana adds a touch of tropical beauty to gardens.
Musa velutina: Also called the Pink Banana, this variety showcases stunning pink fruits and velvety pink bracts. It’s a favorite among collectors for its ornamental appeal.
Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’: While technically a close relative of the banana, this ornamental variety, commonly known as the Red Abyssinian Banana, is primarily grown for its striking red foliage.
Musa sikkimensis ‘Red Tiger’: This ornamental banana boasts maroon-red leaves with prominent green stripes, creating a visually captivating display in gardens and landscapes.
Best Banana Varieties to Grow in Florida
Growing bananas successfully in Florida requires selecting suitable varieties for each USDA zone. Let’s explore some of the top banana types known to thrive in the Sunshine State:
North Florida / Zone 8:
‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata): This compact variety grows well in containers, making it ideal for Zone 8 gardens. It produces tasty, medium-sized bananas with a pleasant flavor profile.
Central Florida / Zone 9:
Goldfinger Banana (FHIA-01): Resistant to Panama disease, this variety excels in Zone 9. Its creamy fruit has a sweet flavor reminiscent of dessert bananas.
Lady Finger Banana (Musa acuminata ‘Lady Finger‘): Thriving in Zone 9, these slender, aromatic bananas offer a delicate and sweet taste.
South Florida / Zone 10:
Mona Lisa Banana (FHIA-2): Perfect for Zone 10, this variety produces large bunches of sweet, aromatic bananas. It offers excellent disease resistance and handles Florida’s hot climate well.
Honey Banana (Musa johnsii): Well-suited for Zone 10, this unique banana variety features a honey-like flavor and attractive red-purple skin when ripe.
Choosing Banana Plants for Your Florida Garden
I don’t know about you, but when they’re small, all bananas pretty much look the same to me. It’s always a good idea to choose the variety carefully, so look for the label when you’re at your local nursery. If you don’t see one, ask someone. You really don’t want to end up with an ornamental type when you’re hoping to be making home-grown banana bread someday.
Dwarf Cavendish
‘Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata) is a popular banana variety renowned for its compact size and delectable fruit. This cultivar typically reaches a height of around 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, making it an excellent choice for smaller gardens or container cultivation.
The ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ features broad, lush green leaves that create a tropical ambiance wherever it grows. This variety takes approximately 2 to 3 years to reach maturity and begin flowering, producing pendulous clusters of creamy yellow fruit.
The fruit of the ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ is medium-sized, with a smooth, thin skin that turns yellow when ripe. Its flavor is delightfully sweet, often described as having a subtle and creamy banana taste with hints of tropical notes.
When fully ripened, the ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ offers a luscious and satisfying eating experience, making it a favorite choice for banana enthusiasts.
Goldfinger
The Goldfinger Banana (FHIA-01) is a remarkable banana variety known for its resistance to several diseases, making it an excellent choice for growers. This hybrid cultivar combines the genetics of the wild banana (Musa balbisiana) and the Dwarf Cavendish (Musa acuminata).
At maturity, the Goldfinger Banana typically reaches a height of 8 to 10 feet (2.4 to 3 meters) with a spread of about 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 meters). It exhibits sturdy and upright growth habits, producing large, attractive leaves with green foliage. The Goldfinger Banana matures in approximately 9 to 12 months and starts flowering when it reaches about 7 feet (2.1 meters) in height.
The fruit it bears is elongated and has a vibrant yellow skin when fully ripe. The flavor profile of the Goldfinger Banana is exquisite, with a rich and sweet taste complemented by hints of tropical flavors.
Its firm and creamy texture enhances the overall culinary experience, making it a highly desirable choice for both fresh consumption and culinary uses.
Lady Finger
The Lady Finger Banana (Musa acuminata ‘Lady Finger‘) is a distinguished banana variety appreciated for its petite size and delectable fruit. Also known as “Sucrier” or “Sugar Banana,” this cultivar is treasured for its sweetness and fine texture.
The Lady Finger Banana typically grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 3 to 5 feet (0.9 to 1.5 meters). It displays an upright growth habit, producing slender leaves that add an elegant touch to any garden. This variety takes around 12 to 16 months to reach maturity and begin flowering.
The fruit of the Lady Finger Banana is small and cylindrical, with a thin golden-yellow skin when fully ripe. Its flesh is creamy and tender, offering a delectable balance of sweetness and subtle tanginess.
The Lady Finger Banana is often praised for its dessert-like flavor, reminiscent of vanilla and honey. Its petite size and exceptional taste make it a favorite choice for enjoying fresh or incorporating into various culinary creations.
Mona Lisa
The Mona Lisa Banana (FHIA-2) is a captivating banana variety that stands out for its exceptional flavor and ornamental features. This hybrid cultivar, bred from the Honduran Foundation for Agricultural Research (FHIA), offers both aesthetic appeal and delectable fruit.
The Mona Lisa Banana grows to a height of about 10 to 12 feet (3 to 3.6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 1.8 meters). It showcases large, lush green leaves that create a tropical ambiance in any garden. This variety typically takes around 12 to 14 months to reach maturity and start flowering.
The fruit of the Mona Lisa Banana is medium-sized, with a slightly curved shape and a vibrant yellow color when ripe. Its flavor profile is highly regarded, characterized by a rich, sweet taste with hints of caramel and hints of citrus. The fruit’s creamy texture further enhances the eating experience.
The Mona Lisa Banana excels as a dessert banana due to its delectable flavor and also adds an aesthetic appeal to landscapes and gardens with its lush foliage and graceful presence.
Honey Bananas
Honey Banana (Musa johnsii) is a unique and lesser-known banana variety that offers a delightful taste and distinctive characteristics. This species is highly regarded for its exceptional sweetness, earning its name “Honey Banana.”
The Honey Banana plant reaches a height of about 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) at maturity, with a spread of around 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 meters). It displays a compact growth habit, making it suitable for smaller gardens or container cultivation. The time it takes for Honey Bananas to reach maturity and start flowering is approximately 12 to 14 months.
The fruit of the Honey Banana is medium-sized with a slender shape and a bright yellow skin when fully ripe. Its flavor is the highlight, characterized by an intense sweetness reminiscent of honey, along with subtle floral notes. The Honey Banana’s velvety smooth texture adds to the overall eating experience.
While not as widely known as some other banana varieties, the Honey Banana surprises with its unique flavor profile, making it a delightful choice for those seeking a distinct and sweet tropical treat.
Blue Java
The Blue Java banana (Musa acuminata × balbisiana ‘Blue Java’) is a fascinating and sought-after banana variety, renowned for its unusual blue-green coloration and distinctive flavor. This cultivar, often referred to as the “Ice Cream Banana,” offers a unique combination of visual appeal and delectable taste.
The Blue Java banana plant reaches a height of 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters). It displays a robust growth habit, with large, sturdy leaves that create a lush tropical atmosphere. The time it takes for the Blue Java banana to grow to maturity and start flowering is typically around 12 to 20 months.
The fruit of the Blue Java banana is medium-sized, with a thick, pale blue-green skin when fully ripe. Its flavor is what sets it apart, often described as resembling vanilla ice cream or custard. The flesh is creamy and velvety, offering a rich and sweet taste with subtle hints of vanilla.
The Blue Java banana’s unique flavor profile, combined with its visually stunning appearance, makes it a highly sought-after variety among banana enthusiasts and a true delight for those seeking a tropical treat with a twist.
Plantains vs. Bananas
Plantains, often confused with bananas, are a versatile staple in tropical cuisine. While they resemble bananas, plantains require different cooking methods due to their starchier texture. Plantains are often cooked before consumption and used in various savory dishes.
Best Plantain Bananas to Grow in Florida
To enjoy the goodness of plantains in your Florida garden, consider these top varieties:
Platano Burro
Well-adapted to Florida’s climate, this plantain variety offers large, starchy fruit with a mildly sweet flavor.
Platano Burro (Musa paradisiaca), also known as the “Burro Banana” or “Horse Banana,” is a popular plantain variety valued for its versatility and distinct flavor. Unlike sweet bananas, the Platano Burro is primarily used for cooking due to its starchy nature.
This plantain cultivar grows to a height of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters). It displays large, broad leaves that provide a tropical ambiance to the landscape. The time it takes for the Platano Burro to reach maturity and start flowering is typically around 12 to 16 months.
The fruit of the Platano Burro is larger and more angular compared to sweet bananas, with a thick green skin that turns yellow-black as it ripens. When cooked, the fruit takes on a soft and creamy texture, perfect for making delicious dishes such as plantain chips, mashed plantains, or plantain fritters.
The flavor profile of the Platano Burro is unique, offering a mild, slightly sweet taste with subtle hints of tanginess. Its versatility in various culinary applications, combined with its hearty and flavorful nature, makes the Platano Burro a favored choice among those seeking to explore the world of plantain-based cuisine.
Saba
Thriving in Florida’s warm climate, Saba plantains produce large, starchy fruit perfect for cooking and frying.
The Saba Plantain (Musa acuminata × balbisiana ‘Saba’) is a popular and robust plantain variety cherished for its versatility in both cooking and baking. This hybrid cultivar, known for its large size and starchy texture, is highly valued in tropical cuisines.
The Saba Plantain grows into a sizeable plant, reaching heights of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) at maturity, with a spread of approximately 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters). It showcases broad leaves that create a lush and tropical atmosphere in the garden. The time it takes for the Saba Plantain to mature and start flowering typically ranges from 10 to 14 months.
The fruit of the Saba Plantain is elongated and thick-skinned, transitioning from green to yellow-black as it ripens. Unlike dessert bananas, the Saba Plantain is not typically consumed raw due to its starchy nature. When cooked, however, it transforms into a delectable treat. The flavor profile of the Saba Plantain is characterized by a mildly sweet taste and a dense, creamy texture.
Its versatility makes it ideal for a wide range of culinary creations, from savory plantain chips and stews to delectable plantain bread or cakes. The Saba Plantain’s substantial size, adaptability, and hearty flavor make it a staple ingredient in many tropical cuisines and a favorite among plantain enthusiasts.
How to Grow the Best Tasting Bananas
To ensure your banana plants thrive, it’s essential to understand the environmental factors that influence their growth:
Temperatures
Bananas thrive in consistently warm to hot conditions. The optimal temperatures are between 78°F to 82°F, although they fruit best at 84°F to 86°F.
When temperatures drop below 60°F, the growth of banana plants slows down, and it completely stops at 50°F. So, you won’t see much progress on your bananas during the winter.
Unfortunately, cooler winter days can really stunt the growth of your banana fruits when temperatures are between 32°F and 50°F.
The plants themselves can become damaged when temperatures drop below freezing for many hours. Signs of freeze damage include the death of leaves and browning of the trunk and fruit.
Temps below 28°F (-2°C) may even kill the plants, but they usually regrow from the underground rhizome once warm weather returns.
On the other hand, excessively high temperatures at or above 98°F (37°C) can lead to leaf scorch, and newly emerging leaves may appear very narrow. This is why you may want to consider planting your bananas in some dappled shade if you’re in South Florida.
Sun and Wind Exposure
Wind can damage banana leaves, so consider planting in a sheltered location or using windbreaks. This may also provide some protection from summer scorching.
Bananas thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially during the hottest part of the day.
Drought and Flooding: While bananas prefer consistent moisture, they can tolerate short periods of drought. Avoid waterlogged conditions.
Grow Bananas in Florida Soil
Bananas thrive in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Sandy loam soils are ideal, but heavy clay soils can be amended with organic matter to improve drainage. Add compost or well-rotted manure to enhance soil fertility.
Bananas are sensitive to high salt levels in the soil. Choose well-draining soils with low salinity.
When to Grow Bananas in Florida
The ideal time to plant bananas in Florida varies by zone:
Zone 8: Plant bananas in early spring after the threat of frost has passed.
Zone 9: Plant in late winter or early spring.
Zone 10: Plant year-round, avoiding the hottest months of summer.
Circle the Bananas
Banana circles, also known as banana pits or banana circles, have gained popularity among permaculture enthusiasts as an innovative and sustainable way to grow bananas.
This method draws inspiration from traditional agricultural practices found in various cultures around the world. While the exact origins of banana circles are difficult to trace, their use can be seen in regions such as Southeast Asia, Africa, and South America, where bananas have been cultivated for centuries.
The concept behind banana circles revolves around creating a self-sustaining ecosystem that mimics the natural conditions in which bananas thrive. It involves digging a circular pit in the ground and gradually building up layers of organic matter within it. The organic materials used can include kitchen scraps, compost, mulch, leaves, straw, animal manure, and any other biodegradable waste readily available. As these materials decompose, they release nutrients into the soil, creating a fertile environment for banana plants.
Banana circles offer several advantages for banana cultivation. Firstly, the circular shape provides an efficient use of space, allowing multiple banana plants to be grown in a compact area. This is especially beneficial for home gardeners with limited space.
Additionally, the layers of organic matter create a moisture-retaining and nutrient-rich environment, reducing the need for frequent watering and fertilization. The organic matter also acts as a mulch, helping to suppress weeds and maintain soil moisture levels.
Banana circles are a holistic way to grow bananas in Florida and they utilize natural processes and recycle organic waste. They promote soil health, conserve water, and encourage biodiversity by creating microhabitats that attract beneficial insects and microorganisms.
Banana circles contribute to the overall resilience of the garden ecosystem, as the decomposing organic matter feeds not only the banana plants but also neighboring plants and soil organisms.
These circles not only provide an abundant harvest of bananas but also provide a lightly shaded understory for growing more sun-sensitive plants in rich and fertile soil.
Planting a Banana Circle
Creating a banana circle, as practiced in permaculture, can optimize growth and provide a sustainable environment for your banana plants. Follow these simple steps to create a banana circle:
Choose a sunny or partially shaded location that is somewhat sheltered from harsh or excess wings.
Dig a circular trench approximately 1-3 feet deep and 3 feet wide.
Place organic matter, such as leaves or compost, kitchen scraps, composted manure, etc. in the bottom of the trench.
Plant your banana pups around the inner edge of the circle, leaving space for growth.
Backfill the trench with soil and water thoroughly.
Mulch the area around the circle to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Care Tips for the Best Tasting Banana
To ensure healthy and fruitful banana plants, follow these care tips:
Feeding Your Bananas
Fertilizing bananas is essential for promoting healthy growth and maximizing fruit production. The timing and nutrient requirements may vary based on the growth stage and the specific USDA growing zone in Florida. In general, it is recommended to fertilize bananas during the active growing season, which typically spans from spring to early fall.
USDA Zone 8
For USDA Zone 8, it is advisable to apply fertilizer in early spring, around March or April, to provide the necessary nutrients for robust growth. Repeat the application every six to eight weeks until early fall.
USDA Zone 9
In USDA Zone 9, where the growing season is longer, you can begin fertilizing in late winter or early spring, around February or March. Continue fertilization every six to eight weeks throughout the growing season.
USDA Zone 10
In USDA Zone 10, with its year-round warm climate, bananas benefit from regular fertilization. Begin fertilizing in early spring and continue every six to eight weeks, maintaining a consistent nutrient supply.
The Macros and Micros
When it comes to nutrient requirements, bananas have specific needs to thrive. The primary macronutrients required are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The recommended NPK formula for edible bananas is generally around 3-1-6 or 2-1-6. This means that the fertilizer should have a higher potassium content compared to nitrogen and phosphorus. This balanced ratio helps promote healthy foliage growth, sturdy stems, and enhanced fruit development.
In addition to the macronutrients, bananas also require various micronutrients for optimal growth. Some essential micronutrients for bananas include magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), and boron (B). These micronutrients play crucial roles in enzyme activation, chlorophyll production, and overall plant health. It is recommended to use a fertilizer that includes these micronutrients in its formulation or supplement with micronutrient-specific products as needed.
Organic Fertilizer for Bananas
For those preferring organic alternatives to commercial fertilizers, several options are available. Organic materials such as compost, well-rotted manure, and worm castings can provide a rich source of nutrients for bananas. Additionally, organic fertilizers made from natural sources like fish emulsion, seaweed extracts, and bone meal can be effective in meeting the nutritional needs of banana plants. These organic alternatives offer sustainable options while nourishing the soil and supporting healthy growth.
Irrigation for Bananas
Bananas require consistent moisture. Provide regular deep watering to keep the soil evenly moist.
Mulching helps suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Use chop and drop when trimming browned leaves. They will break down in the soil and provide nutrients while helping to retain moisture in the soil until they do.
It’s especially important to provide water throughout the winter and spring in Central and South Florida. Once you pass your last freeze date, you’ll need to water your bananas regularly until the rainy season begins.
How to Harvest Your Banana Crop
Bananas typically take around 9-15 months to mature, depending on the variety. Once the flower has produced as much fruit as it will, the bananas will begin to grow larger and become plump.
At this point, you can cut off the remaining flower if you like. I haven’t noticed any difference between leaving them on or cutting them off. Many people enjoy eating banana flowers in regional dishes, but I normally cut them down to prevent stressing the pseudostem. I drop them into the middle of the circle to compost.
Once they reach their mature size, the top bananas on the stalk will begin to turn yellow. That’s when it’s time to harvest.
You can harvest each hand of bananas individually as they become ripe, if you choose. Cut them from the stalk with a sharp knife.
Alternatively, you can harvest the whole stalk by cutting it about 10-12″ above the top hand of bananas. You can hang them up in a utility room or garage to finish ripening.
Note that the bananas will begin to fall off the stem as they ripen, so you’ll want to make sure you harvest them regularly so you don’t end up with a pile of rotten bananas under the stalk.
The Tragedy of Bananas
Once a banana plants fruits, it will die off. So, you won’t get any more bananas from the same plant once it has. However, you will get new banana plants growing from the rhizomes below.
Many times, you’ll see several pop up before the plant even blooms, which is reassuring when you realize that the plant will die after fruiting.
I’ve noticed that Dwarf Cavendish will definitely throw out two or three pups before blooming. I have a few other varieties that I’ve forgotten the names of that don’t send up pups as prolifically.
Sometimes you’ll get more pups from the rhizome, even though the mother plant appears to be completely dead. If you’re using the banana circle method, allow the “tree” to brown and dry out completely. Once it is completely dead, you can just push it over and allow it to gently decompose within the circle.
Time to Grow Bananas in Florida
By now, you’re equipped with the knowledge you need to grow bananas in your Florida garden. Take advantage of the summer rainy season to get your own mini-plantation going this summer.
Roll up your sleeves, get your hands dirty, and embrace the joy of growing bananas in Florida. Start your journey towards self-sustainability and enjoy the delectable flavors of homegrown tropical fruits right in your own backyard. Happy gardening!
It’s been a cold winter and a dry spring, but now it’s June and the summer garden in Central Florida is … well … hot, wet, full of bugs, and still struggling.
But that’s okay. Zone 10 and Zone 9 Florida gardening is usually filled with challenges. Who else still has debris from Hurricane Ian or Hurricane Nicole? I know I do!
The rains have finally started, although it may be too little, too late. We need the rain badly, and for anyone growing perennials or trying to establish a food forest, the rains are always welcome.
Vegetable Gardening – What Can I Plant in June in Florida?
What are you planting in June this year in Florida? Are you ready for the challenge? There are a few vegetable varieties, specifically tropical edibles, that love our summer heat and humidity.
Very few of the traditional vegetables will make it if planted between now and August. It really isn’t the heat – it’s the humidity. In fact, the temperature often settles to a relatively comfortable level in the summer, thanks to the overcast skies and the regular rains.
But anything with any susceptibility to fungal disease won’t make it.
So long, tomatoes!
It’s been fun, cukes!
Sayonara, squash!
A few vegetables you can plant in June in all Florida gardening zones include:
Note that basil, oregano, and rosemary love the heat but hate the humidity. If you can keep them under some cover to keep them from drowning, they will love you for it.
What I’m planting in June 2023
Vegetable gardening is taking a bit of a backseat in my backyard this year. I still have peppers and watermelons that I’m hoping to keep harvesting for a while.
The yard-long beans are producing faster than I can prep them for storage.
But the big project this summer is nursery expansion.
We’ll be adding more covered space with a new greenhouse (or two) to increase the growing area. And the gardening focus is on building inventory.
I’ll be air-layering star jasmine and propagating cuttings of plumbago, fire bush, bougainvillea, and golden dew drop.
And of course more mulberry trees.
Summer is also a good time to start perennial flowers from seed. I’m hoping to have more salvias and blue butterfly pea vine plants to ship soon.
I’ll also be stocking up the inventory for more annual seeds for the shop.
Fruit Trees Love the Summer Garden in Central Florida
My family loves bananas, and it’s a good thing, because we have dozens of banana “trees,” with at least 10 in flower or fruiting.
The rainy season is a good time to get your own banana circle started. Bananas need a lot of moisture, especially to get established.
I’m hoping to start carrying banana plants in the nursery next spring, but for now, I’ll just enjoy being a home grower.
Flower Gardening — What can I plant in June in Florida?
If you’re uninspired by the small range of edibles to grow in the summer garden in Central Florida, you’ll be happy to know that adding flowers for pollinators is always in season.
You’ll find a wide range of heat-tolerant and even heat-loving flowers that attract bees and butterflies to your yard. Getting a good pollinator garden established now will come in handy in September and October when your cucumbers need pollinating.
Some great varieties for Florida gardening zone 9 and 10 are:
If you’ve ever wept over pounds of scabby-looking tomatoes, pocked with yellow spots, and covered by horrible little orange insects, then you know the pain of dealing with leaf-footed bugs (squash bugs) is real.
I tried this.
It works.
You really need to soak the little buggers down, but it works.
Go forth and claim back your garden from the leaf-footed menace.
One of the reasons we can grow year-round in Florida is because most of the state sits on the border of temperate and tropical climates. So, it doesn’t take much to push the edges of your growing season. In fact, you can often push them right into the next season. It gives us more leeway to take advantage of Florida garden microclimates that can make all the difference between winter and spring.
Florida does get too cold to garden. We found that out over Christmas 2022, when temperatures reached below or near freezing for four nights in a row throughout the state.
It also gets too dang hot in the summer for most garden vegetables. And if it’s not technically too hot, it’s too humid or just too rainy.
The good news is that there are specific steps you can take to both identify and create specialized microclimates in your garden that will improve your results.
Identifying Your Own Florida Garden Microclimates
When you think about garden design, you may think of the grand landscape gardens of England or the highly restrained gardens in the Western U.S. Both design approaches create a serene and inviting garden space.
However, it’s hard to find many examples of the best way to design a garden for food production or self-sufficiency. Of course, you could take a permaculture course or hire a consultant.
I personally would love to try out David the Good’s Grocery Row Gardening system, but honestly, I just don’t have the room. My growing space has already been designed in a circular pattern, and there’s no way to put up rows of anything without tearing out a lot of already established plantings.
However, if you don’t have the time or patience — at least right now — for a full-scale re-engineering of your property, you’re probably just looking for a few ideas for a new setup or ways to tweak your current layout.
The first step is identifying the microclimates that already exist on your property and making the most of them by choosing the right plants for them.
Bananas can help create microclimates in a Florida Garden
Finding the Hot Spots
Finding a sunny spot in a Florida garden isn’t really a difficult task, usually. However, sometimes you want warmth without actually having more sun. For example, during the winter, shade-loving plants need protection from any cold snap without getting burned (ask my coffee plants, and they’ll tell you).
Heat-Loving Edible Plants for Florida
Florida gardeners plant a wide variety of heat-loving plants. But there’s a catch. Only the most heat-tolerant of these will survive our summer conditions. Many won’t make it past May or June unless they are already well-established and already in fruit.
That said, finding the warm pockets of your garden is important when you want to take advantage of our mild spring and long autumn conditions.
Some of the most common heat-loving plants we grow include:
Peppers
Tomatoes
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Melon
Squash
Once you find those warmer microclimates, you can plant out these vegetables in late February or grow them through November and even December. Sometimes, you can grow peppers and tomatoes year-round in Florida.
Identifying Warm Microclimates
First and most obvious, look for the areas of your garden that get the most sun or the longest length of sun. It sometimes pays to spend a day off checking for the patterns of light and shade throughout the day.
You’ll also have to repeat this fact-finding mission several times a year as the angle of the sun changes. However, once you spend a year’s worth of seasons taking notes every month or three, you won’t have to repeat this unless there are drastic changes in the environment.
Other things to look for when determining your garden microclimates are:
Look for areas around your home or shed. Most cement-block houses, ubiquitous in Florida, absorb heat throughout the day and can provide a pocket of warmth throughout the night. Even the light-colored ones. I have to move everything away from the south-facing walls during the summer, or even the peppers and tomatoes fry by 4 pm.
Areas under trees and tall bushes often hold in heat and can create a warm microclimate of their own. While this may not be a great place for sun-loving plants, it’s usually superior for those shade-loving plants (i.e. coffee plants). It’s also a great place to move container plants during a cold snap for temporary protection.
Find the low-lying areas of your garden space. They’re less exposed to the wind and tend to retain heat better.
Look for dark, dense soils, as they retain both water and heat better than sandy soils. You may not have any to work with but do check to be sure.
Looking for Moisture Retention
Florida is known for its marshes and wetlands. This means we have some beautiful native plant species specially adapted to damp conditions. I’m currently cultivating scarlet mallow and looking forward to sharing these beautiful native hibiscus-type blooms with customers in a couple of months.
Moisture Loving Edible Plants for Florida
Edible plants that we commonly grow in Florida that prefer damp feet include:
Cabbages
Cauliflower
Snow and Snap peas
Arugula
Taro root
And most ironically, except for Taro, most of these are winter plants, which are the driest month of the year in Florida. While it’s far more pleasant to spend time outdoors with a garden hose when it’s 70°F rather than 95°F, it does become time-consuming and expensive. Not to mention the drain on the fresh water supply.
To save on watering costs, look for the areas of your garden space that provides the best water retention. Some things to look for are:
Areas with some mid-day shade
Low-lying areas where rainwater accumulates
Places near bushes or hedges
Heavier soils with some clay content
North-facing areas where less sunlight results in less evaporation
Other thirsty vegetables you might want to grow in low-lying areas that also offer plenty of sunlight include cucumbers, peppers, and squash. Sometimes, it’s just a matter of recognizing the angle of sunlight during the summer vs. the winter.
Sad Tomato
Finding Areas with Excellent Drainage
Some edible plants really need good drainage to thrive. Normally, they’re well suited to growing in our sandy soil. However, if you’ve ever had to watch a once-beautiful and well-established rosemary bush suffer, drown, and die after a Florida rainy season, you’ll understand why finding the dry parts of your garden can be critical.
Arid-Loving Plants for Florida Vegetable Gardens
Many edible plants commonly grown in Florida enjoy the good drainage of our sandy soil. Some will even thrive during the hottest part of the year.
Those that prefer dry conditions include:
Most Mediterranean culinary herbs
Rosemary
Sage
Thyme
Oregano
Marjoram
Chard
Eggplant
Grain amaranth
Irish potatoes
Okra
Southern peas
Sweet potatoes
Drought-Tolerant Chard
In most cases, finding the warmest spots in the garden will help create drier conditions, but also look for:
Longest hours of sun exposure (and hence, evaporation)
Light-colored, sandy soil (which is easy to find in Florida)
Elevated areas upslope that provide the best drainage during summer rainstorms
Open areas with a lower concentration of plants
Understanding Florida Garden Microclimates is a Critical Skill
With wilder weather patterns and increasing shifts and instability of seasonal conditions, Florida gardeners who are determined to grow their own food simply need to understand how microclimates work.
For example, the record-breaking freezes of Christmas 2022 truly revealed how well using the right planting location can work. I know I learned a few lessons. The heat-loving peppers I had out in the garden stood up just fine to the freezes under a light cover. That’s because they were planted near a banana circle, which provided both a warmer microclimate and protection from the wind.
In contrast, more cold-tolerant plants that were not under a tree canopy simply gave up the ghost.
When growing vegetables over winter in Florida, the wind is just as much a threat as frost during a cold snap.
Mapping Microclimates
There are ways to make your existing Florida garden microclimates more functional as well as ways to create new microclimates you may not already have. That’s a subject for a future post. To get started, note down the ones that currently exist that you can work with.
It’s a good idea to map out the existing microclimates in your garden. If you’re interested in supporting this blog and need a well-organized place to keep those maps and notes, then pick up our Florida garden planner. It has grid sheets where you can map out any of your garden beds individually or as an overall master plan.
The old adage “Right Plant, Right Place,” is a universal gardening Truth. Identifying the microclimates in your Florida garden is the first step to mastering this skill.
Most Florida gardeners are starting to plan our fall gardens right about now. Even if it’s still way too hot to work outside. We can sit indoors in the air conditioning with a sweet tea, watching the storms, dreaming of an abundance of vegetables in just a few months. But what vegetable varieties are you planning?
If you’re wondering what vegetables to grow in Florida, the answer is all of them!
English plantswoman and gardening icon Beth Chatto taught us “Right plant, right place.”
In Florida, we get another dimension – the right time.
We’re heading for fall. We’re ready for fall. We know when. We even know where.
All we need now is to know which are the right plants.
Understanding Vegetable Varieties
Plants fall into different families, and these are separated into different genera, and then different species.
Within species, say, tomatoes, you’ll find different “varieties.” Some are natural varieties produced by mutation. Others have been cultivated by people for specific characteristics..
Plant Families
Plants in the same families share similar characteristics in their germination, growth, flowering, and fruiting habits. Some of the most common plant families in home gardening include these plant families.
Many gardeners swear by rotating every plot on their land by these plant families. Theoretically, any soil disease or pest that develops over one season is sure to damage the same type of plant in the following season.
The issue of nutrients is also a factor. Some plant families all require a great deal of nitrogen. Repeatedly growing members of these plant families in the same plot can lead to nitrogen depletion and poor results.
Common Plant Families in Gardening
While not wholly inclusive, the following represent some of the more common plant families in home gardens.
Solanaceae
Also known as the “nightshade” family, this group includes some of the most popular home garden vegetables.
Tomatoes
Peppers
Eggplants
Tomatillo
Irish Potatoes
Cucurbitaceae
We often refer to these as cucurbits, and this family (for gardening purposes) includes many vining gourds:
Cucumbers
Pumpkins
Zucchini
Butternut squash
Melons
Fabaceae
This is the legume family, which are those that harvest nitrogen from the atmosphere and store it in nodules in their roots. This includes a wide range of garden beans as well as other crops, like clover and alfalfa, which fix nitrogen into the soil in the same way.
Bush beans
Pole beans
English Peas
Snow peas
Southern peas
Brassicaceae
Commonly referred to as cole crops, the brassicas include all those wonderful winter vegetables with dark green and delicious leaves.
Broccoli
Mustard greens
Cabbages
Collards
Turnips
Radishes
Alliaceae
Even a homegrown meal would be a little dull without these members of the onion, or allium, family.
Onions
Green onions
Garlic
Shallots
Chives
Lamiaceae
Many of our culinary herbs are members of this family, often called the “mint” family.
Mint
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Oregano
Apiaceae
These cool-season crops are all members of the parsley family, and include:
Carrots
Parsley
Cilantro
Fennel
Celery
Chenopodiaceae
We don’t normally call these by their common name, the “Goosefoot” family, but this group includes:
Beets
Chard
Spinach
Asteraceae
Although they look nothing alike, many home gardeners grow members of the “aster” family in their home gardens:
Lettuce
Artichoke
Sunflower
Vegetable Varieties and Hybrids
So, if you’re wondering which of these vegetables to grow in Florida, the answer is any of them that you want, as long as you plant in the right season for our wonky weather. However, if you want to improve your rate of success, you’ll look for varieties that have proven themselves in our climate.
What are Vegetable Varieties
You may have heard the term “variety” or may have seen the term “cultivar.” Many gardeners use them interchangeably, and I suppose I am one of them, although I know better.
When it comes to vegetables, however, home gardeners only need to understand the difference between a variety and a hybrid. Especially if you grow from seed.
Varieties are a type of plant that is in all important aspects just like any other member of its species. However, it has demonstrated a small difference, such as the color of the flower or the shape of the fruit.
Nature is wonderful. It’s always mutating to fill the gaps.
Gardening in Florida is one of those gaps. Trying to grow vegetables that most of us recognize and want to eat in a subtropical climate is definitely a specialized niche. A gap, as it were.
So, you may find that some naturally occurring varieties do better in our climate than others. In some cases, careful scientists from our heroic Ag Department have spent years nurturing these sports to ensure they will perform true to type.
What are Vegetable Hybrids
Then there are hybrids. Hybrid seeds are often one-offs that have been bred to perform in specific conditions.
F1 Hybrid: A combination of two distinct varieties of plants that will produce a known result.
F2 Hybrid: Seeds produced by self or open pollination in F1 plant fruits
F3 Hybrid: Seeds produced by self or open pollination F2 plants
You’ll rarely find F2 or F3 seeds for sale because the results can vary so much. You may collect them and experiment with them.
You’ll definitely find plenty of F1 Hybrid plant seeds on the market when you’re shopping for your fall garden. They have some distinct advantages and two very solid disadvantages.
Pros
Bred for a unique or particularly attractive appearance
Combines the best of two parent varieties
Generally produced to be resistant to several diseases
Cons
Usually expensive
Not a good candidate for seed saving
Choosing the Best Vegetable Varieties for Florida Gardens
Now you know a few of the basics about what constitutes a variety and a hybrid. You’re going to want to know which ones the best for your garden.
YMMV – which to me, in gardening, means, “Your Microclimate May Vary.”
I’ve collected some varieties (and hybrids) for consideration. These selections have been recommended by Florida state Ag experts or other experienced growers. Some have been solid gold winners for me.
Some are heirlooms, some are simply open-pollinated, and some are hybrids. Knowing which they are can help you decide to buy or not. This may depend on your budget and your desire to save seed for next season.
All are in alphabetical order.
Bush Beans
Annihilator
Bush Blue Lake
Cherokee Wax
Contender
Roma II
Royal burgundy
Tenderette
Tendergreen improved
Pole Beans
Blue Lake
Dixie Butterpea Lima beans
Early Thorogreen Lima beans
Foodhook 242 Lima beans
Kentucky Wonder
McCaslan
Storage / Shell Beans
Wase Adzuki
Beans, Long/Snake
Kurosanjaku
Mosaic Yardlong Beans
Red Noodle
White Seeded
You Fong Wong Yardlong Beans
Beets
Asgrow Wonder
Cylindra
Detroit Dark Red
Early Wonder
Green Top
Little Ball
Pacemaker III
Red Ace
Heading Broccoli
Early Dividend
Early Green
Green Duke
Green Goliath
Green Sprouting
Packman
Waltham
Sprouting/Flowering Broccoli
Calabrese
De Cicco
Piracicaba
Brussels Sprouts
Jade Cross
Long Island Improved
Cabbage
Bravo
Bronco
Copenhagen market
Flat Dutch
Rio Verde
Round Dutch
Savoy Red Acre
Wakefield
Asian Greens and Cabbages
Cabbage Blues
Choho Hybrid Tatsoi
Early Mizuna
Green Rocket
Green Spray Mibuna
Jung Green
Kosaitai
Okame Hybrid Spinach
Red Komatsuna Tatsoi
Shuka Flowering
Tokyo Bekana
Wakamine Green
Melons
Ambrosia Cantaloupe
Athena Cantaloupe
Charleston Grey 133 watermelon
Crimson Sweet watermelon
Florida Giant watermelon
Galia Cantaloupe
Ginkaku Korean Melon
Hakucho Charentais Cantaloupe
Hime Kansen Icebox Watermelon
Honey Rock Cantaloupe
Ichiba Kouji Honeydew
Jubilee Watermelon
Sugar Baby Watermelon
Carrots
Chantenay
Danvers
Imperator 58
Kuroda Subtropical
Lunar White
Nantes
Purple Haze
Solar Yellow
White Satin
Cauliflower
Brocoverde
Cheddar
Graffiti
Snow Crow
Snowball
Celery
Conquistador
Giant Pascal
Giant Red
Golden Pascal
Utah
Collards
Georgia
Georgia Southern
Morris Heading
Top Bunch
Vates
Corn, Sweet
Early Sunglow
How Sweet It Is
Kandy Korn
Merit
Peaches and Cream
Silver Queen
Sweet Ice
Sweet Riser
Corn, Field
Black Aztec
Bloody butcher
Blue Clarage
Hickory King
Johnson County White
Mandan Bride
Reid’s Yellow
Roy’s Calais
Seneca Red
Tennessee Red Cob
Trucker’s Favorite
Cucumber, Slicing
Ashley
Bush Slicer
Cherokee
Dasher II
General Lee
Greensleeves
Marketmore 76
Poinsett
Sooyow Nishiki
Speedway
Summer Dance
Sweet Success
Thunder
Cucumber, Pickling
Boston
Calypso
Eureka
Jackson classic
Napoleon
Royal
Transamerica
Endive
Batavian Broadleaf
Garlic
Lorz Italian
Thermadrone
Eggplant
Asian Bride
Black Beauty
Cloud Nine
Dusky Long
Florida Market
Ichiban
Mizuno Takumi
Shoyo Long
Kale
Blue Curled Scotch
Dwarf Blue
Lacinato (dinosaur)
Red Russian
Siberian
Suiho Chinese
Winterbor
Kohlrabi
Early White Vienna
Purple Vienna
Lettuce
Heading
Bibb
Buttercrunch
Ermosa
Great Lakes
Manoa
Okayama Buttercrunch
Tom Thumb
Looseleaf
Black Seeded Simpson
Oak Leaf
Red Deer Tongue
Red Fire Leaf
Red Sails
Ruby Red Leaf
Salad Bowl
Cos
Jericho Romaine
Outredgeous
Parris Island Cos
Red Romaine
Mustard Greens
Florida Broadleaf
Giant Red
Greenwave
Southern Giant Curled
Okra
Annie Oakley II
Burgundy
Cajun Delight
Clemson Spineless
Emerald
Jambalaya
Onion, Bulbing
Cippolini White
Granex
Granex Yellow
Matador Shallot
Shonan Red
Superex “Maui”
Texas Grano
Tropicana Red
White Libson
Onions, Green
Evergreen bunching
English peas
Green Arrow
Oregon Sugarpod II
Sugar Snap
Wando
Southern Peas
California Blackeye No 6
Hull
Pinkeye Purple
Pinkeye Purple Hull cowpeas
Southern Seminole
Texas Cream
Peppers, Sweet
Big Bertha
California Wonder
Chinese Big Red
Sweet Banana
Peppers, Hot
Ancho
Cayenne
Ghost pepper
Habanero
Hungarian Hot Wax
Jalapeno
Irish potatoes
French Fingerling
Red Pontiac
Yukon Gold
Pumpkins
Jack O Lantern
Seminole
Quinoa
Brightest Brilliant Rainbow
Radish
Cherry Belle
French Breakfast
Giant White Daikon
Hailtone
Karaine Daikon
Mantanghong Beauty
Scarlet Globe
Sparkler White
Rutabaga
American Purple Top
Spinach
Bloomsdale Longstanding
Viroflay
Summer Squash
Aehobak Korean
Black Beauty Zucchini
Chayote
Cocozelle Zucchini
Crookneck
Desert Zucchini hybrid
Early White Scallop
Spineless Beauty Zucchini
Teot Bat Avocado Squash
Winter Squash
Butterscotch Butternut
Calabaza
Spaghetti
Table Queen Acorn
Tatume
Waltham Butternut
Sweet Potatoes
Beauregard
Swiss Chard
Bright Lights
Canary
Fantasia Orange
Flamingo
Fordhook Giant
Perpetual Spinach
Pink Lipstick
Red Ruby
Determinate Tomatoes
Celebrity
Floradade
Floragold
Homestead
Maraglobe
Solar Set
Tasti-lee
Indeterminate Tomatoes
Amelia
Better Boy
Bonnie’s Best
Celebrity
Cherokee purple
Green Zebra
Heat Wave II
Mortgage Lifter
Cherry Tomatoes
Everglades
Gardener’s Delight
Sun Gold Cherry
Sweet 100
Sweetie
Paste Tomatoes
San Marzano
Turnips
Japanese Red Round
Purple Top White Globe
Seven Top
Strawberries
Camarosa
Chandler
Festival
Florida Beauty
Florida Brilliance
Florida Radiance
Oso Grande
Sweet Charlie
Sweet Sensation
Tropical Greens
Green Leaf Amaranth (callaloo)
Molokhia Egyptian Spinach
New Zealand spinach
Red Garnet Amaranth
White Leaf amaranth
Finding Seeds for the Best Vegetable Varieties to Grow in Florida
It’s not hard to find seeds many vegetable varieties for our subtropical climate. But you will need to look outside the box. Instead of shopping at the big box stores, check out smaller specialty suppliers.
New and experienced gardeners often find themselves frustrated by seeds that don’t pop. After spending hours deliberating over your garden plan and then money on starting mix, it’s a huge disappointment when your little cell trays remain empty. But one of the primary reasons your seeds didn’t germinate is soil temperature.
If you’re new to gardening, you may think that growing plants from seeds is simple – toss them in some dirt, and boom – a few weeks later, you have a yard full of flowers. Or vegetables. And yes, while nature uses this method, more or less, nature also uses hundreds if not thousands of seeds to produce one viable plant. Survival of the fittest, and all that.
I get it. You’re excited for spring and keen to get growing. You’ve had a miserable cold winter and need some green in your life. However, jumping the gun will lead to disappointment. If you want an abundant garden, you’ll need to learn about the importance of soil temperature.
What Seeds Need to Grow
Last week, I touched lightly on the importance of proper seed storage. To keep your seed stash viable as long as possible, you need to deny them the very things they need to germinate:
Light
Moisture
Heat
Oxygen
There is a pretty wide range of optimal germination temperatures depending on where the plant evolved and the climate of its origins. Some plants prefer cooler temperatures and will germinate very early in the spring. Others prefer higher temperatures and will do wonderfully in the summer heat.
Nature abhors a vacuum and will work to ensure a steady supply of flowering plants throughout the growing season. So, some flowers have evolved to germinate at 45 or 50 degrees, while others will take over when temperatures hit 85.
For a long-lasting and beautiful garden throughout the growing season, it’s critical to understand what you can grow and at which temperature to start them.
Container gardening lets you control moisture and soil temperature for a variety of plant species.
Soil Temperature vs. Ambient Temperature
One mistake I have commonly seen made by new gardeners is not understanding the difference between soil temperature and air temperature. While soil temperatures are relatively stable 10 feet below the surface, it’s much more variable at root level for your new seedlings.
Even at root level, soil temperatures are very different than the air temperature. For good germination, you need to be sure the soil temperature is right.
In cooler regions, the soil temperature may stay much cooler, even though the sun feels hot on your skin on a clear spring day. Worst of all, they may plummet in the night when the sun goes down. The soil — and your little seeds — could even freeze.
In warmer regions, however, the soil can remain much warmer than the air temperature, which isn’t always a good thing.
Last January, for example, our nearby IFAS weather station recorded lows of 26 degrees Fahrenheit, but the soil temperature barely dropped below 60. Now that it’s summer, the soil can reach up to 86 degrees F, even as the air cools towards evening into the 70s. Many flower seeds just won’t germinate above 85.
Optimal Soil Temperature Varies
The best temperature for germinating flower seeds will vary by plant species, plant origins, and even moisture levels.
Seeds too cold
Seeds in conditions that are too cold will not germinate. If those conditions are also moist, it’s likely the seed will rot before it sprouts. Heavy spring rains can also keep your garden soil from warming up, further slowing the process. And that’s if you don’t have a sudden late frost!
Seeds too hot
Seeds in conditions that are too hot may also not germinate. There’s a reason gardening experts recommend getting your compost pile above 100 degrees. That’s to kill whatever weed seeds may lie dormant in the pile. Too much heat kills.
Seeds just right
Seeds have been programmed by millions of years of evolution, along with careful cultivation by humans, to germinate when the ongoing conditions will be optimal for the plants to grow and thrive.
This is reinforced by the fact that the microbiology in the soil that will help your plants thrive also needs optimal temperatures to thrive.
Germination Temperature vs. Growing Temperature
More annoyingly, many plants prefer lower growing temperatures once they’ve germinated. So, that beautiful new packet of petunia seeds may need 75 degrees to germinate, but will perhaps grow better under cooler conditions around 60 to 65.
Other plants may be stimulated by a freakish warm spell or even the odd late freeze that cracks the shell.
Plants are weird.
This need for a particular sequential set of conditions is one of the reasons why so many gardeners turn to native plants. Rather than spending money on heaters and lights and misting systems, many gardeners prefer to take their cues from the natural conditions where they live and let nature sort it out.
Group plants by their preferred soil temperature when direct sowing a variety of plants.
Control Freak Gardening
Over the years, I’ve evolved from the hopeful and random scattering of seeds into a complete control freak, where nearly everything I grow is started in cell trays or soil blocks.
Aside from beans and Ipomoea spp. (and sometimes even those), I’m all about controlled conditions. While I do enjoy an extended growing season in Coastal Central Florida, I also have very little room. I take Charles Dowding to heart when he suggests starting as many plants as possible in trays so you’ll always have something to plug into the garden beds. I’m a big fan of soil blockers.
With flowers, I’m a little less controlling, but then, I’ve got more experience with vegetable gardening and I’m really just starting to experiment with growing ornamentals and wildflowers from seeds. I’ve had equal success with easy flowers with direct sowing as with using starter trays.
But as I talk to more gardeners across the country, both new and experienced, I learn more about how important soil temperature is for germination. I admit it — I’m spoiled by an excellent climate. We almost always have reasonable soil temperatures where I live. If anything, it’s managing moisture we struggle with most here in Florida.
As I learn more about optimal soil temperatures for germinating flower seeds, the more I become fascinated and keen to experiment. We’re in the hottest part of the summer, with daily UV alerts and heat indexes in the 100s. I’m excited to see if I can start some more heat-sensitive flowers indoors in my “farm office” for planting out as the weather cools toward autumn.
In temperate zones, many gardeners get a start on spring by starting seeds indoors in the winter.
Here in the subtropics, we can do the same thing to get a jump on fall gardening.
Starting plants indoors lets you provide optimal soil temperature for a variety of plants.
Optimal Soil Temperature for Flower Seeds
Most internet resources will tell you that anything between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit is fine. But since I deal with a lot of flowers that are native to tropical and subtropical regions, I wanted to dive deeper than “just fine.”
I was also able to find some other critical information on the Iowa State University website that may prove useful — the common flower seeds that require light to germinate.
Some seeds require surface sowing, as they need exposure to sunlight to sprout. Others should be covered with soil, generally with 2 times the depth of the size of the seed.
For seeds that require light to germinate, barely cover with a sprinkling of soil. Or sprinkle lightly onto moist starting mix and press gently into the soil. Use a mister to keep seeds moist without disturbing them or displacing them.
With seeds that require darkness, remember that as soon as they sprout, they will need sunlight. Don’t leave them in the dark too long without checking them.
Flower Germination Temperature and Light Conditions
Flower Seed
Optimal Temperature for Germination
Light Requirements for Germination
Alyssum
55° to 70°
Light
Angelonia
70° to 75°
Light
Aster
65° to 70°
Light or Dark
Bachelor’s Buttons (Centaurea cyanus)
65° to 70°
Light or Dark
Begonia
70° to 75°
Light
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristate)
70° to 75°
Light
Blue Sage (Salvia farinacea)
70° to 75°
Light
Borage
65° to 85°
Dark
California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica)
55°
Light
Canna
70° to 85°
Dark
Celosia
70° to 75°
Dark
Cleome
70° to 75°
Light
Coleus
70° to 75°
Light
Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)
65° to 75°
Light
Coneflower (Echinacea spp.)
65° to 70°
Light
Coreopsis
55° to 75°
Light
Dahlia
70° to 80°
Light or Dark
Daisy (Bellis perennis)
65° to 70°
Light
Delphinium
60° to 68°
Dark
Dianthus
60° to 68°
Dark
False Queen Anne’s Lace (Ammi majus)
55° to 65°
Light
Four O’ Clocks (Mirabilis)
65° to 75°
Dark
Foxgloves (Digitalis)
60° to 65°
Light
French Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
70° to 75°
Light
Geranium (Pelargonium)
70° to 75°
Dark
Gomphrena
70°
Light or Dark
Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea)
60° to 70°
Light
Impatiens
70° to 75°
Light
Lavender
70° to 80°
Light
Liatris
55° to 72°
Dark
Lisianthus
75°
Light
Lobelia
65° to 75°
Light
Lupine
55° to 65°
Dark
Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotundafolia)
70° to 75°
Light
Milkweed (Asclepias)
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Monarda
60° to 70°
Light
Moonflower (Ipomea alba)
85° to 95°
Dark
Morning Glory (Ipomea spp.)
70° to 85°
Dark
Nasturtium
65° to 70°
Dark
Nicotiana
70° to 75°
Light
Nigella
65° to 70°
Light
Pansy (Viola tricolor)
65° to 70°
Dark
Petunia
70° to 80°
Light
Phlox
60° to 65°
Dark
Portulaca
75° to 85°
Light
Red Poppy (Papaver rhoeas)
65° to 70°
Light
Roselle
75° to 85°
Dark
Rudbeckia
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea)
70° to 75°
Light
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum)
60° to 70°
Light
Statice (Limonium)
68° to 75°
Light
Stocks (Matthiola incana)
60° to 65°
Light or Dark
Strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum)
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Sunflower (Helianthus)
70° to 85°
Dark
Verbena
70° to 75°
Dark
Vinca (Catharanthus roseus)
70° to 75°
Light or Dark
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium )
65° to 75°
Light
Zinnia
70° to 80°
Dark
How to Make Optimal Soil Temperature Work for You
Now that you know the best soil temperatures for common garden flowers, you can use this information for better germination. Consult your local extension office to find the best source of soil temperature data for your area. I use, appropriately, the Florida Automated Weather Network, or “FAWN.”
If you’re starting early in the spring, you can use black plastic sheets several weeks before direct sowing to warm the soil.
The most popular option is to start your seeds indoors where it’s warmer. Many gardeners swear by heat mats for starting seeds and cuttings at any time of year. Heat mats will ensure a steady perfect temperature, regardless of the weather or the blasting AC in August.
If you’ve already hit high summer temperatures, you can choose to start seeds indoors or under cover where they’ll receive some shade. The summer sun on a bare garden bed can play havoc on seeds and other soil life. Growing them under cover until they’re mature enough to handle the heat is one technique to add to your gardening toolbox.
For my part, I know I’ll never try to start alyssum or nigella after April ever again.
Time to Grow
Adding flowers to your garden plan is always a good idea. They’re not just beautiful – they also add critical forage for those pollinator friends that help us with our squashes and cucumbers. Many also bring in necessary predatory insects that can help protect our work.
They add diversity to the garden with their own root exudates, enriching the soil and in some cases, purifying it as well.
It’s only June, but you’ve already filled your garden to the brim with summer vegetables and herbs. The flower borders are chock full, and you’ve even tucked a few spare cosmos and zinnias into the squash patch. The problem is, you still have packets and packets of flower seeds left to plant. Can you save them for next year? How long will flower seeds last in storage?
Maybe you just got swept away with gardening enthusiasm and bought too many seeds. Or maybe you ran into a great sale. We all do it – buy too many seeds. They’re relatively inexpensive, and it’s easy to fall in love with the picture on the packet. But too many seeds can also mean a few broken dreams.
How long can you keep these extra seeds without having to throw them away? Do flower seeds expire?
How Long Can Flower Seeds Be Stored
Depending on the variety, flower seeds will last in storage for 1 to 5 years.
How long flower seeds will last will depend on a few key factors. Are they annuals or perennials? What kind of seed coating or shell does the seed have? Where are you storing your flower seeds?
And finally – how important are these seeds to your gardening plans?
That seems like a harsh question, but it’s a valid one when it comes to deciding whether to simply toss them or to use critical storage space to keep them in the right conditions.
Seed Saving Priorities
If your garden is already full of zinnias, whose seeds are extremely easy to save, should you really bother to save that damp, torn, half-packet you found at the bottom of your seed stash?
Perhaps you have a small garden and very limited space for seed starting. Should you bother to save seeds when you know you won’t have room to plant them next spring?
Where Does Your Garden Grow?
For those of us who garden in the South and the subtropics, in particular, saving seeds after spring planting means saving them for fall planting. If you live on the Gulf Coast, for example, you may want to plant those zinnias in February, May, and September.
If you live in Iowa or Nebraska, however, when the season is short, you want to be ready right out of the spring gate. Perhaps you have a large property, with room to experiment? If your spring priority is getting food in the ground, perhaps you don’t want to spend time or money on flower seeds. You may want to save the ones you have to help bring in pollinators, but it’s not your top priority. In that case, you may want to save your flower seeds even if the germination rate is low.
If you’re anything like me, you save everything – obsessively — even seeds that are likely to fail. Even seeds for flowers that you hate and vegetables you won’t eat.
Because seed saving sometimes becomes a bit of a lifestyle.
So, how do you determine what’s worth keeping?
How Long Do Packaged Flower Seeds Last?
When you purchase seeds from a big box store, you’ll often find the package labeled with the “best-by” date and date of expiration. This date isn’t when the seeds expire, but it is the date that stores will remove them from their inventory.
Companies that handle a lot of seed packets will purchase and package all the seed they sell in one year and mark it for sale for the following year. For example, they’ll buy mass quantities of those same zinnia seeds harvested by farmers in 2022 to sell at your local garden center starting in January of 2023.
You may also see markings on the packets that include lot numbers and germination rates. While there are federal standards for vegetable seed germination rates, flower seeds are regulated at the state level. And to be honest, they’re pretty low standards. In many cases, germination rates as low as 40 or 50 percent are considered acceptable.
Seed Germination Rates Vs. Vigor
Many new gardeners are surprised to learn that good germination doesn’t always result in a strong healthy crop. Even though I’ve been gardening for many years, I made this mistake with an overlarge package of bush bean seeds. The first four crops were amazing, but planting number 5, about three years later, produced dismal-looking specimens.
So, while your flower seeds might sprout beautifully under the best conditions, the seeds may be too old to produce tall, strong, vigorous plants.
Oregon State University has proposed several methods of testing seed vigor, but they may be considered excessive by the average home gardener.
However, the difference between germination rates vs. vigor is another reason you need to determine your gardening priorities when saving flower seeds. Unless you’re a professional grower or garden designer, you may be willing to take more chances on old seed.
How long do perennial flower seeds last?
When stored properly, perennial flower seeds may last up to 5 years.
How long do annual flower seeds last?
Annual flower seeds, except for a few exceptions, will normally last up to 3 years.
Flower Seed Viability Chart
When properly stored, your flower seeds may last as long as shown on the following flower seed viability chart. The years listed are the maximum to expect under optimal conditions.
Flower Seed Viability Chart
How long to store seeds.
Ageratum
4
Echinacea
4
Petunia
3
Alyssum
5
Euphorbia
4
Phlox
2
Amaranthus
5
Forget Me Not
2
Poppy
4
Ammi majus
2
Four O'Clocks
2
Portulaca
2
Artemisia
5
Gaillardia
3
Rudbeckia
2
Asclepias
1
Gomphrena
5
Salvia
3
Aster
2
Helianthus
3
Saponaria
5
Bachelor's Buttons
5
Heliotrope
2
Scabiosa
3
Borage
5
Hollyhocks
3
Stocks
3
Calendula
6
Impatiens
2
Snapdragon
5
Campanula
3
Larkspur
3
Strawflower
2
Carnation
5
Lavender
3
Sunflowers
5
Celosia
4
Linaria
3
Sweet Pea
5
Clarkia
3
Lisianthus
3
Tithonia
2
Columbine
2
Lobelia
4
Verbena
5
Coreopsis
2
Lupine
5
Vinca
1
Cosmos
4
Marigold
5
Viola
1
Chrysanthemum
5
Monarda
4
Wallflower
5
Dahlia
5
Morning Glory
4
Yarrow
5
Daisy
3
Nasturtium
7
Zinnia
6
Delphinium
3
Nicotiana
5
Dianthus
5
Nigella
2
Digitalis
2
Pansy
2
So What Are Optimal Conditions to Keep Flower Seeds Viable
There are several elements that can hasten the demise of your stored flower seeds – and they’re the same elements that make them sprout: heat, light, moisture.
Experts recommend ensuring the following to provide optimal conditions to extend the life of your saved seeds:
Home Gathered Seed
If you’re collecting your own seed from the garden:
Remove any chaff, leaves, or stems
Air dry for one to three days
Freeze seeds for a few days to kill any insects
Package in a paper bag or paper packet for short-term storage
Refrigerate in a sealed container with desiccant packets
Long Term Storage
If you’re storing seed over the winter or for the long term, you’ll need to take better note of conditions. Once processed and whether home-gathered or purchased:
Ensure seeds are dry – 7 to 8 percent is optimal. You can dry your seeds on screens with a fan or out of the sun on a warm day.
Keep at temperatures below 50 degrees Farrenheit
Store below 50 percent humidity
Store in paper packets
Label thoroughly
Place paper bags or packets
Keep packets in a closed container such as a canning jar or baby food jar
Store in the refrigerator or freezer. Note that your freezer provides a more consistent temperature since it is opened less frequently than the average refrigerator.
Wildflower seed, dandelion. Free public domain CC0 photo.
Saving Flower Seeds to Last
Now that you have a good idea of how long your flower seeds will last, it’s time to start winnowing. If you’re done planting for the year – or even just for the summer – assess your inventory.
If you have seeds that are years old, with no hope of germination, it’s time to toss them and make room for others.
If you have seeds you’ll plant soon, dry them completely and put them in a cool, dark place until fall sowing.
For next year, make sure you tuck them away into the freezer. You don’t want them exposed to heat, moisture, and light before you’ve had a chance to plant them.
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